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Showing results for tags 'wrench'.
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Beam-type torque wrenches are very imprecise, but much better than nothing. Clicker wrenches should be periodically calibrated, but virtually none of us go to the expense and effort to have that done. But you CAN check them yourself. Checking the accuracy of a torque wrench is not too difficult IF you have at least two wrenches with overlapping ranges. Here's how: You need a high grade bolt and nut - I prefer grade 8 (six radial lines on the head) where a 7/16-14 bolt would allow you to test up to around 70 ft lbs. Make sure the threads on the bolt go all the way to the head, and put at least one large washer on the bolt. Now clamp the nut in a vise with the top side flush with surface of the vice, then screw the bolt all the way in. Set your first torque wrench to a low setting in the range that is covered by your second wrench. For example, if both wrenches go from 10-100 ft*lbs, I would start at 15 ft*lbs. Carefully tighten the bolt in the vise until the wrench clicks. Now switch to the second wrench, set to the same torque, and see if it clicks BEFORE the bolt turns at all. If so, that is good, but you are only 1/2 done! What you have just shown is that the first wrench did not tighten the bolt any LESS than the same setting on the second wrench, but it MAY have tightened it more. So to complete the check, you need to loosen the bolt, then repeat the above steps starting with wrench #2. If this test also shows the second wrench clicks before the bolt turns any more, then you can be confident that both wrenches are setting the same torque, so they are almost certainly both correct. Now increase the setting on both wrenches up to something in the middle of the range and re-do the whole test. The only thing you need to be careful about is to make sure the max torque setting you test is within what the bolt grade and size can handle. If the two wrenches you are testing do not both click at the same setting, no matter which one you start with, then at least one of them is bad. To find out which one, you will have to find a third wrench to test. When you have two wrenches that both click the same when you do the entire test above, then you can use either one of those as a baseline to compare other wrenches. Just an FYI to anyone who brashly wants to claim all Harbor Freight torque wrenches are junk - I have a total of 5 torque wrenches here - two from HF (a 1/4" drive clicker and a 3/8" drive clicker), an old beam type wrench in in*lbs, and two very high quality 1/2" drive clickers that were calibrated by a USAF test lab. ALL of those wrenches test the same in every point where the ranges overlap, so the HF wrenches are dead accurate within a reasonable tolerance. The only complaint I have at all against one of the HF wrenches (the 1/4" drive) is that the gradations on the handle are a bit more difficult to use when setting the torque value - I had to compare it to the other wrenches to be sure I was reading it correctly. So if anyone in the North Texas area wants to check their torque wrenches, we can compare them to mine. Goose BTW - How you store your clicker-type torque wrench is important. If you do not have (or haven't bothered to read) the instructions that came with your wrench, you might be in the habit of just chucking the wrench back in your tool box after that last "click" on the last bolt of the job. But it is important to turn the torque setting all the way down to remove the tension from the internal spring before putting it away. Leaving the spring under tension is the biggest reason why these types of torque wrenches change calibration.
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What size wrench does the large nut on top of the steering head of the RSV take? I know it is larger than any metric wrench that I have and I want to make sure I buy the right size. Thanks, Dennis
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My 07 is just over 3000 miles and it seem over the last two weeks the bike is getting louder.. I have had to turn up the volumn on the stereo up two numbers.. It sounds mostly like exhaust tone,, I haven't put a wrench on the exhaust collars but they seem tight. Is this normal?
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I read all the post on breaking your reservoir to the rear breaks, and even tried the 16 mm and 14 mm wrench idea. But this bolt was stuck. This is what I did and it worked slick!!! After exhausting all the ideas I saw here I fired up the air compressor and pulled out my 3/8 drive impact and at LOW air pressure I held the resv. with the 16mm wrench and gave it a quick burst with the impact and spun it right off. Caution: I think I took a chance but from experience I thought it would work and it did. But I have used this technique with other projects, just not pot metal which breaks easy. So if you try this use Low pressure and a wrench to back up the resv. Second thing, HOW in the world do you all get the pucks out of the break housing??
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I just installed this, BUT... How do you tighten the 1/2" nut that sits behind the air nut? I don't have a wrench thin enough to do this. Any suggestions? Thanks.
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I don't have a 1 1/16" socket, but will a box end wrench work for removing the nut on the top on the triple tree. I haven't began the job of lowering the front on my '99 RSV yet, but I'm first lining up the proper tools. And also, I have a dumb question. Will a regular motorcycle jack work by itself or do I really need the adapter? Thank You! Owen
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I received my clutch today and decided to go ahead and install it. I got it all took out and started putting it back together. I got it all back together and was putting the bolts back in the clutch plate. I was trying to torque them down with my old torque wrench and one of the bolts snapped. I finally managed to get it out after about an hour. My question is does the bolt have to be a certain kind or will any kind due? My torque wrench is the old kind that has the bar that comes up with a red end on it that moves down the gauge that tells you what your ft lbs. Do I need to invest in a newer one? Thanks hairman
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How many use torque wrenches for routine maintenance and who tightens until it is "about right"? I realize that proper torque is absolutely critical for some applications. Do you use more than one wrench (i.e. low range 1/4 or 3/8 plus high range- usually 1/2")? What type of torque wrench do you use (i.e. "clicker")? I have heard it mentioned that the torque specification (by Yamaha) for the axles are too high. For instance on the Roadstar, I believe that 110 ft.lb is recommended for the rear wheel while the general concensus is that 80 or so is sufficient. Any opinions for the RSV? In the past, I have generally borrowed a torque wrench to use only for things I consider to be critical but I am thinking about buying a couple of new ones to cover the necessary ranges. (I have used the "about right" method for most stuff) Thought I would solicit some opinions. I am not into major stuff - I would leave an engine teardown to someone who knows more than I do - but I prefer to do everything I can. Thanks Ross
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Anybody got tips on removing the socket head 10mm bolt at bottom of forks?? I put impact wrench on it and it just spins the rod inside. any way to keep it from spinning?? JB
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i am changing my oil for the first time and i thought i had the right tools (wrong) i cant get my oil filter to tighten up what type of wrench do i need? in the mean while my oil is leaking in to a rag because i get get it tight need help fast please and thank you!!!
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I'm starting to get some grinding in the front brakes with 9500 miles on it, and I'm ordering some EBC replacement pads today. My question is should I order and replace the rear at this time, or does the rear normally last a lot longer? I'm not much of a wrench, but I have read several good posts here so I decided to change them myself. Thanks for the help. BigD
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I'd like to replace and torque my steering head bearings. Anyone know where I can find a ring nut wrench (complete with 3/8 inch slot for a torque wrench) and fork end cap socket? In reading the shop manual, looks like it calls for removing the forks? Is there any way to get around that? Thanks. Jim
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As Spring approaches, I'm facing removing and dismantling my (4) carbs to remedy 1 that wasn't firing when I put my '87 up for the winter. This is not the first time for this. It's a termendous job that I don't look forward to. There's only 9000 mi. on this rig. I'm afaid the years are taking their toll though.Has anyone else faced this? What's the long term solution? I'm anxious to ride not wrench. If this keeps up I'll probably be logging onto a site like Ultra Classic Rider.Org or Gold Wing Rider. Org in the future !!!!!
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Still a lot of snow out here but getting really anxious for spring. I bought an '84 Venture and it didn't have a tool kit. I am putting some tools together (pliers, spark plug wrench, multi tool, etc...) I wonder if anyone has experience with "on the road" issues and could point to any particular tool or item I should keep in my tool kit.
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I was pulling the rear wheel getting ready for the VMax rear end swap. To get the axle out, I usually use a wood dowel and hammer on the threaded end to start it moving. Once inside the wheel, I continue banging it through using a long extension. Once its about half out, I can grab it from the pinch bolt side and pull it on out. Today, I couldn't get it moving at all. I checked the pinch bolt... ok. Nothing in a bind that I could see. Banged some more... nothing. I was getting rather frustrated. For some reason I stuck my finger into the axle on the pinch bolt end. I thought I felt a hex hole. Looked in and there was a hex opening. I grabbed my 10mm allen wrench hoping maybe I could turn the axle and maybe break free whatever was holding it. It turned fairly easily. I also found I could pull out on the lower end of the wrench, putting it in a bind in the axle, work it back and forth while pulling, and the axle slipped right out. No more banging. Maybe everyone but me knew about this, but I hadn't seen it anywhere so thought I'd post it. Next was bleeding the rear brakes after doing the Butler mod. I couldn't get the master cylinder to prime. Pump, pump, pump... nothing. I figured that maybe I had an air lock in the tube feeding the MC. I used a set of long needle nose pliers to gently squeeze and release the tube. Sure enough. I got a lot of air out the top and fluid down the tube... but still nothing through the MC. I've got speed bleeders installed. I thought that maybe with so much air in the line, it was compressing the air and not opening the speed bleeder valve. I took the speed bleeder all the way out. It worked! A few more pumps and fluid was moving. I pumped real slow so as not to shoot brake fluid everywhere. As soon as most of the air was out of the line and fluid started bubbling out, I put the speed bleeder back in and all was well. Still took a little while to get all the air out, but it's done. I can't say for sure that the speed bleeders were the problem. Maybe the MC gravity primed while I was messing with them, but I sure suspect them. If I had pulled the bleeder first, I might not have needed to clear air from the tube connecting the reservoir and MC. The first image is pretty blurry, put you can just make out a hex shadow inside the axle. The next three show the allen wrench in place and me pulling and turning the wrench to slip the axle out. -
I went to Harbor Freight, the other day, and picked up a Torque Wrench for work on my bike. The one I bought is a 1/2" drive - 20-150ft lb unit. If memory serves me correct, the torque for spark plugs is 12.5ft lb (or somewhere around that). I will make doubly sure, before I attempt to do any actual work, but I do know that their torque requirements are below the minimum range of what I bought. I will need to get another, but will have to go elsewhere - as I believe that HF only had the range-type that I bought. I would appreciate some info on just what I would need, in a torque wrench, which would serve all torquing requirements for my '83 VR.
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If your driving light is loose I have a fix. Mine were loose and moving around alot. So I took them apart and found in the driving light there is a socket head bolt that has been drill out lengthwise. All you have to do is remove blinker light,be sure to take the bolt all the way out. Remove retaining ring on driving light and just let the light hang there for awhile. Unplug the red and the orange wires. Slowly pull the red and orange wires down just enough to get a 8mm allen wrench in. With a wrench hold the sided chrome part that you just pulled the blinker light off of and tighten with allen wrench good and tight. Push the red and orange wires back up into the driving light shell and replug them. Put light back in and the blinker light. You might won't to put some kink of thread lock on the allen bolt before you retighten it. Worked for me. Gene Weir
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