yamagrl

​Moon...

Valve shim calculation can basically be done in your head. The math is quite simple. The shims are metric, hence 2.75= 2.75mm. Here's a post I did awhile back. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?105498-Easy-Peazy-Valve-Shim-Calculator THINK METRIC Measured Clearance + Existing Shim = Existing Total - Ideal/Average clearance = Ideal new shim size.

I must agree. When I found Big Red I fell madly, deeply, hopelessly in love... There is simply none other that matches up. Big Red is no doubt "high maintenance" But, I sometimes wonder what I'd do without him. The alternatives? 5,10,20, maybe $30,000 or more... for something that doesn't really even match up. So what's a girl to do?

​SunTsu

I kinda like the Live Wire HD Electric Motorcycle http://rack.0.mshcdn.com/media/ZgkyMDE0LzA2LzE5LzEzL0hhcmxleUVsZWN0LmMzMDI0LmpwZwpwCXRodW1iCTk1MHg1MzQjCmUJanBn/d9f717d1/6de/Harley-Electric-Motorcycle.jpg

http://www.brainyquote.com/photos/f/friedrichnietzsche101616.jpg

Here is the 99 Yamaha XVS1100 Service Manual https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B-KrKk_YXL4TLXdoNmVmSm5qZ0k/edit I have the 99-07XVS1100 Classic manual, the Clymer Manual and the wiring diagrams on my computer. PM me and I'll send you a link. The offer is open to anyone else who might want them. I also have manuals etc. for XVS650 Classic and Roadstar 1600. Pass the word. Think I even have info for 1100 on jetting the carbs, gutting the pipes, removing AIS. Really good XVS1100 Knowledge Base https://sites.google.com/site/vstar1100kb/home Be sure to check out the "Must Read" section Forum http://forums.delphiforums.com/yamaha1100 Excellent website http://www.vstar1100.com/ Speak up if you have any questions.

Be careful! I've read that these things can backfire in your face when running open like that. Keep your head out of the line of fire, so to speak. No you do not need to pull the carbs for these procedures. The diaphragms may or may not need to be replaced. Check them first for pin holes. You can do a temporary fix on pin holes by dobbing a bit of Plasticote or yamabond (5 I think) to plug the pin holes. This'll get ya by for a while. Avoid Hondabond.. it'll make your Yamaha run a lot slower! It sounds like the tiny o-ring (#9) may be missing or damaged or the related passages restricted. The carb has to be able to create a vacuum on the back side of the diaphragm in order to cause oscillation of the slides. Lack of vacuum here can only be caused by 2 things... plugged orifices or air leaking in around that oring or a poor seating of the diaphagm in the carb body/diaphragm cover. The above flow diagram by Prariehammer is an excellent example. http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1984/XVZ12DL/CARBURETOR/parts.html Spray some carb cleaner through them to ensure that they are clear. If the o-ring is nonexistent or damaged you can match it up at a good hardware store. All it has to do is seal that juncture. Make certain that the slide and diaphragm are properly oriented and seated. Some people say that the hole at the bottom of the slide needs to be oriented to the bottom of the slide. I'm not sure about that but I do it anyway, if for no other reason than respect for the Gurus. They said "Do it" so I did it! Here is a link by Skydoc for installing the Sirius diaphrams that I referenced above http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?32121-Ebay-Carb-Diaphragm-Replacement! Use a guitar pick (referenced above).

The evolution of the XVZ began with the Mk1 (1200) in 83. In 86 it morphed into the Mk2 (1300), bringing improvements, upgrades. Also in 85 came the Vmax, a high performance 1200. Most of the occurrences where XVZ12 is not listed is due to upgrades. Many of these items were basically the same but subsequent years were improved design and not original to previous versions. Many of these components can simply be installed, such as the shift segment. However some require additional upgrades such as the Mk2 clutch spring system will work on an Mk1 only if the Mk2 engine side cover over the clutch is changed also. Another example is the front brake calipers. They are paired to the respective lower fork tubes... in order to use Mk2 calipers (or even better R1/R6 calipers) you would have to install Mk2 lower fork tubes. Simple enough, but necessary. Often it's easy enough to make the determination by simply comparing the parts diagrams. You can also inquire on this forum. Some of these guys have owned the bikes since 83. The carbs are essentially the same except for some of the jets and the needle valve assy. The Mk1 needle valve assy is different... but I'm certain either could be used as long as the needle and seat is used as a pair. On a couple of occasions I have ordered a Mk1 part number to just be safe and the Mk2 to part was sent as a superseded part number.

Sometimes the best is right before your eyes. Rupert Holmes once told a story like that.

First off there are some gurus on this site that are absolute Karber-Eighter experts and most of the best advice will come from them. I've read a good bit about the shotgun process Bongobobny mentions. I haven't done it myself but I think I'd try that first. You can probably get by with the existing jets. If you need diaphragms get them here http://www.siriusconinc.com/pro-detail.php?pid=&product_id=3988 and use a guitar pick to install them http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?106129-Special-tool-for-Sirius-Diaphrams If you decide to go into the Karbs then I recommend buying Damon Farraiuolo's dvds. They are specifically VMax but the differences are minor and apparent (jet sizes and enrichment linkage I think). His engine reassembly DVD is excellent also. I think they are 20 bucks for both. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84030 Here's a clip. If you buy them say Hi to Damon For me. Heather

When Squidley and I did my carbs in 2014 these are what we used. The difference is the float valves are slightly different in the Mk1s. All of the seals and gaskets were the same.

Here's an eBay link. 4 kits for $91.99 http://www.ebay.com/itm/4x-K-L-86-07-VMAX-CARB-KITS-V-MAX-83-93-XVZ13-VENTURE-VENTURE-ROYALE-/361517049733?hash=item542c186785:m:mauZ9W9kvlN1NnHNO4dUWcA&vxp=mtr I ordered from in in 2014.

I'm on eBay quite frequently and no problemo. Have you tried another browser? It could also be something else.... Do do Do do... Do do Do do. (Twilight Zone) Also, since I started using PCMatic all four of our computers have been completely trouble free. $150.00 lifetime ANY FIVE computers... lifetime.

Also, the starter can be pretty stubborn and not want to come out. If that's the case asserting a little influence might be required. This is what I used... a paint paddle... free at any paint counter. With the lower fairing off, just slip it through between the frame and the engine and the just smack it with your favorite mallet. Anything smaller than a 12Lb sledge hammer should be adequate! Seriously though, a bit of tapping with a mallet or a hammer will help it out. (P.S. this is a picture of a parts bike)

Dano's Starter Clutch Mod is here http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?44547-Starter-Clutch-Mod

Skydoc http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=59&title=first-gen-vr-fuse-box-upgrade-kit&cat=17

Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/100PCS-5X20MM-GLASS-QUICK-FAST-BLOW-FUSES-TUBE-AUTO-CAR-0-2A-15A-/322043803241?hash=item4afb4e7669:g:cMAAAOSwHxVW66Wj I also think I have seen them in Walmart

Heritage (Great Great Grandmother Chippewa me-1/16+)

"Wind Talkers"

Here it is https://www.jeopardy.com/jbuzz/features/april-fools-10-tricks

I think I read somewhere that the clutch covers are different also because 86-93 clutch spring design requires a bit more room. The part numbers are different on MkI vs MkII Item 24 MkI http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1984/XVZ12DL/CRANKCASE+COVER/parts.html MkII http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1986/XVZ13DS/CRANKCASE+COVER/parts.html

I found these interesting

I agree with Randy Back off on ONE. That should start to create a balance on the left side (1&2) Then back off on FOUR. That should start to create a balance from the RIGHT side to the LEFT side. At this point you can simply proceed with the normal sync sequence. 1 to 2 then 3 to 4 then 4 to 2. Just remember Back to Front (both sides) then Right front to Left

Here are a few important issues to not overlook. 1. You have only 30 days to revert back to your previous OS (7, 8.1) 2. Windows 10 download is free only until July 2016 3. You can create a backup USB disc. Here are the instructions http://windows.microsoft.com/en-GB/windows-8/create-usb-recovery-drive Windows 10 Rocks! But I liked Windows 8.1. I recognized early on that Windows 8 & 8.1 was designed a little too much around the touch screen. That in itself made it difficult for most people. I however, loved it and Windows 10 is even better!