M61A1MECH

That could work, I am only 25 minutes south, and where I work is close enough to the speedway that I can hear the cars running while I am in my office, you better belive that makes it hard to stay at work.

Personally I think the Goldwing riders group does just right. Someone decides he is going for breakfast or lunch somewhere, posts where he will be be and when, if others chime and and want to join they say so, if not he eats alone. No fuss no muss, simple say what you are going do and do what you say, done.

Mike, the guy on Craigs list does not know what he has, that is a 1700 Road Star all day long. Any body can post what ever they want on craigs list, I have seen them post a Royal Star as a Road Star, even seen dealers do that. Think what you like, but until someone shows be a title or spec sheet from Yamaha tha syas it is a factory 1800 cc RoadStar I stand on what I said and what I can find with my research in credible sources. I am done with conversation just not worth my time, but anyone that cares to can check here http://www.autoevolution.com/moto/yamaha/road-star/

YUP, that will do it also.

Mike , Nope, Yamaha never made an 1800 cc Roadstar. 2004 they went to 1700 cc. SPECIFICATIONS 2004 Yamaha Road Star Designation: XV17A Suggested base price: $10,999 Standard color: White Extra-cost colors: Black/red, add $200; Midnight black, add $800 Standard warranty: 12 months, unlimited miles http://www.Yamaha-Motor.com ENGINE & DRIVETRAIN Type: Air-cooled 48-degree tandem V-twin Valve arrangement: OHV; 2 intake, 2 exhaust valves operated by pushrods; hydraulic and threaded adjusters Displacement, bore x stroke: 1670cc, 97 x 113mm

Mike, Roadstar never had an 1800cc, first models had 1600cc then they changed to 1700 cc (1670 to be exact), your fat fngers must have pressed the wrong key.

Just to complete my offer from a prevous post, here is a link to my CD install in the trunk Took up alost no room and very seldom skipped, but if you drop you bike over on to the left side, it plays havoc with the changer and stuff the CDs in places they are not supposed to go, do not ask how I know, just trust me. http://s40.photobucket.com/user/royalsteve/library/2007%20VENTURE/CD%20INSTALL

Ok according to the service manual all of the segments on the fuel gauge should flash on and off for 8 cycles, then repeat 3 times, after that if the right most segment only flashes 8 times then it is the fuel sender, if the left most segment flashes it is the thermistor.Personally as long as the gauge is working, the low fuel light is working and you reset you trip meter each time and know about what your range is, I would not worry about it.

Mine did that but only after I filled the tank up and initially turned the ignition on, it would flash a specific code at me, a series of flashes 6 or 7, the service manual says that points to a fault in one part or another of the sensing system. Different flashing codes point to different parts of the sensing system.

There have been numerous reports of hydrolocking of Royals , more the past few months than I have seen in the past 16 or 17 years I have been participating in forums like this. There have also been at least two reports recently of Royals throwing rods thru the cylinder walls , those may or may not be related to fuel dripping in the cylinders although I rarely did it when I owned my Royals, it is a good idea to allways turn the petcock off when parked.

I mounted mine in the trunk of my 07, as I recall there was a rubber plug on the right side floor that you could slit to bring the cable thru. The factory mounting system is what really takes up the space, I did not get that on the free one I received from anoter member here, so I stood it on it's side and removed the cargo net on the front bulkhead of the trunk. I fashioned some aluminum straps and foam packing material to create a cradle to hold it up against the front bulkhead. I then installed the cargo net back in place using tiewraps to allow it to "stretch" around the CD player. You do have the change a couple of screws or some thing on the unit to allow it to work properly on its side, but it is easy and if you look a the case there are instructions or arrows pointed to the positions of the screws verse mounting position. I think I have photos still on another computer or disk, if you are interested, PM me with an email address and I will see if I can find them.

I had a CD player on my 07 for 7 years, never turned it off when I parked it, never had a problem, but in Florida it was ridden at least once a month, never parked for the winter like some places.

It is a 28 mm, but you should also tighten up the tabbed locking nuts on the bottom. see this write up, http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?511-Tightening-the-Steering-Head

I did the 1.5" risers also with out changing the lines or cables, did have to fidle with the throttle cables a litttle to reposition them, but that was just loosening the clamps and moving the cables around. Check for binding of the throttle when the bars on the stops. With the risers they will hit the black cover on the top of the tank when on full left or right stop, it will leave a small mark on the shroud but it is flexible enough to bend out of the way without cracking. Another thing that helps the handling of the 2nd Gen are leveling links, they raise the rear by 3/4", helps the slow speed handling a lot.

Yeah considering you have a month worth of summer each year , we have a month worth of winter, the economics of AC/Heat and comfort are very different.

Shameless promotion of my product. If you want more light back there you can add one of these also, http://www.venturerider.org/forum/photopost/showproduct.php?product=7&title=type-2-run-2fturn-2fbrake-light-bar-for-2nd-gen-ventures&cat=18

Mine lasted a litle over 20 years , that is the life span of hese systems , especially here in FL where they run in AC mode almost all year long. I did have issues with mine where the blower motor quit and the heat exchanger in side froze up and when the ice melted itsoaked some dry wall. As stated previously check for debris in the hea exchanger coil fins and for ice build up. Also make sure the drain from the condesent tray is clear and letting the water out, that will make a mess when it over flows. A litttle bleach in the drain eac month will kep that clean. Check for energy savings programs through your electric utility company, there were some very good deals in years past wher the electric companies helped with rebates and check for energy credits on your income tax, do buy the extended warrenty, I have had mine blow a capacitor once or twice and they came out on a Sunday and fixed it, no charge. When I replaced mine I went with and Amana unit, a little more noisy than the ofter one, but works well.

That is a good price, have seen the same or similar for $100.00 + shipping. Put one on my 98 Royal Star in 99 and transfered it to my 07 Venture in 07 it was still on the Venture when I sold it in 2014, all tolled probably traveled 160,000 miles with it on and never had an issue.

Barry, We had a great time a number of years ago just poking around Kentucky for a week, I am going back one day and when I do I plan on doing the http://kybourbontrail.com/ . I applied for my Bourbon passport, but it never showed up, unless the wife tossed it. I have to apply again I guess.

So is it to cryptic? My wife says I am the only one who will understand it. If you do decode the plate, then read the entire sentence starting at the top of the frame, go to the plate and then the bottom of the frame. Then it makes sense. I have not been able to take it out to see if I get any stares or comments.

Try http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-plastic-sheets/=yh3wib, they have just about everything, I have even just got them to saplle me some things when I needed small quantities of something that had a large min purchase size. For a lot of the plastics they have sample sets you can get also.

Maybe, the problem is the chemicals in the loctite attach the plastic even in very smal amounts and cause it to stress crack and crumble. You are well advised to keep a close eye on those areas where you used the loctite looking for any evidence of cracks. The plastic used on bikes is generally ABS, not an overly sophisicated plastic. We use a lot of engineered plastics where I work and any amorphous plastic , even highly engineered ones like Ultem will stress crack in short order if loctite is used, funny that the crystaline plastics like PEEK do not suffer any ill affects from loctite. On a 1 to 10 scale, PEEK is about a 9 and ABS is about a 3 as far as chemical robustness goes. Bottom line as stated above do not use loctite type products any where near the plastic parts on your bike, all it takes is the fumes.

I maybe could afford the price tag on a new one, it is the divorce I could not afford.