Bones

Thank you all. I am relieved to know I am not going to have to get out my very old soldering iron and make a mess... I will let you know.

I seem to have lost my passenger communication cable and am not sure to where it was connected on the bike. I was wondering if it possible that it was plugged in and can be easily replaced or if I need to look into getting a new one and rewiring it. I am at a loss as to what happened. I assume that it must have gotten loose and was pulled off somehow. Any thoughts would be helpful.

06 RSTD. I left the gas valve on reserve all the time. When the gas gauge hit "F" and there were two "Bars" showing I could drive 65 more miles at 65 mph and still have fuel in the tank to stretch a little bit more. I wasn't feeling real comfortable about it though. I have a venture now, of the same vintage. I haven't stretched the bigger tank past that mark yet. Perhaps next summer...

Kenda Kruz in the standard sizes on my 06 Venture. Good tire and i have run a few. Great price and no compromise in quality for me.

Interesting...

Isinglass is a product that can help "clarify" the beer after the fermentation. Found at your local brew shop. A search of the product will help you understand what it is and how it works. Also, not necessary, as the yeast residue is rich in B vitamins and good for you. Also in time you will develop a deft hand at pouring home brew ifin ya don't get around to kegging it... heh. You can bottle right after the ferment is stopped and the gravity is right. Just watch the transfer hose and don't let it suck from the bottom of the fermenter. Both methods are fine. The specific gravity test will tell you a few things about your wort. Read up a bit and it will all become clear... sorry for the pun.

Also I just saw the last post above mine, I would search on boil over preventer or pot minder. They will help keep the pot from boiling over... the operative word is help. Good luck.

Wash in warm or hot as you see fit. Sanitize in cold water and Clorox and let drip for a just a little bit... not hot, as it destroys the antibiotic properties of the chlorine. There are commercial products available also, but not needed IMO. I never used priming sugar, I just let the residual sugars in the Wort (pronounced Wert) do the job of carbonating. Glass grenades are not fun and the extra sugar can be a problem, though it will take a few days longer to be drinkable. Added sugar can impart a cider like flavor to the beer and to me is not desirable, however your kit may require/suggest it. Is it a Mr. Beer kit? If so, just follow directions and it typically comes out fine. Ferment in a temperature stable environment and avoid a lot of light if the fermenter is see through. If you bottle I would suggest you use amber as it will protect the beer from getting skunky and store in a UV free area until it is to be consumed. Also real ales are typically drank at cellar temps about 50 to 55 degrees F. You can better taste the subtle flavors of the beer. If you tap directly form the kit then don't worry... bottle will come later if you progress. Beer kits are fun. Then comes the the joy of 5 gallon kits if you progress, followed by partial and full mashes that come later if. Enjoy!

I am local to this area myself. I read about the accident. I am always saddened to hear another rider is lost. My condolences to your friend.

My son and I use this method. He "found it on the internet," as it were. It does work for mounting and dismounting, if a bit clumsy. Breaking the bead to remove the tire is difficult, but we use two methods. One being the old double 2x4 and the car bumper. Long board used as leverage pushing much shorter one down onto the bead to break it loose. The other is an old 14" car rim that fits just inside the wheels of our motorcycles and simply stand together on the tire edge and our weight breaks the bead. Balancing is done with bearings scavenged from roller blades and mounted to two boards and a rod suspended between them. They hang from the back of wooden chairs when needed. Weights are provided by your local Harbor freight store. It works if a bit crude. It is easier just to get them done in a shop, but we enjoy the time together wrenching now and then.

This was a fun thread to read. Mine is easy, if you knew, me. I take x-ray's for a living. I also have a bit of interest in some odd things related to bones and different cultures through time. I hope all had a great holiday. Bob

Have used them a lot. Never a problem here assuming you're changing your oil at factory spec. Bob

Done.

Had one... have one. One each and both 2006. The Venture remains.

I believe that tire width is 130 where the stock tire is a 150. You can use the tire as some say the bike handles easier at slow speeds with that size. However some also say that the bike feels unstable at higher speeds with it. Others should chime in soon and tell you more.

It restores blood flow to your brain by removing the plaque that is nearly clogging up the flow through the carotid arteries. You should feel better and clearer headed, meaning less issues with memory and clear objective thinking. Did you really want a blow by blow description of what they are going to do? I really would not worry too much about the what and hows. It is, what it is, and should help you in the end. You should expect some stiffness and range of motion issues with your neck after the surgery. They will discuss with you exactly what to expect and how to help your rehabilitation. Relax if you can, Bob

it sticks. I use it also. The last application where I had worn out the tires while using it I had gotten 38000 miles on the front and 15000 on the back tire. In comparison the previous set got 28000 and 12000 respectively. I did not use it on the previous set. Both sets were E3's. They run smoother and longer though I have not had to deal with any punctures as yet.

I have used Mobil 1 Synthetic in my motorcycles for a while now. I have 15k miles on my current and 50k on my last and 26k on the one before that. At no time have I had a problem and I use whatever Mobil 1 is on sale at the time, 10w40 or above in viscosity. The motorcycle specific Mobil 1 on the manufacturer's web site states it to have better stability for higher temperatures and use with a wet clutch and adjoined transmission. Link here http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Motorcycle_Oil_FAQs.aspx#FAQs2 Zink is the additive that was once praised for air cooled bikes due to over heating. The "sheer" stability of the oil would give way at too high a temp and metal parts would/could come in contact while running. Not really an issue with water cooled Motors. Molybdenum, though, can be a problem and is what is now used in most "energy conserving" oil these days as Zinc will hurt catalytic converters. Moly bothers the clutch... Most sites parrot the same info however they are also trying to sell you their product so here is an easily digestable form. Link here http://www.ehow.com/about_6458429_motor-oil-zinc.html 10w40 15w50 and the motorcycle specific blends are what I would use as they do not have significant amounts of Moly in them, however all of the Automobile specific Mobil 1 oils do have some amount as I understand it. I also was curious about what to use and why and I tried to read up on all that I could find about Mobil 1 use as the price is better than all the other "Real" synthetics in my area. I use it for literally everything here... Just explaining my specific understanding and usage.

I would not overlook the Kenda line of tires... namely the Kruz. They are sold at a better price point and have a tire they say is made for this kind of bike. I am currently running them and they are a decent tire that will likely outlive the Shenko and not much more in cost. http://www.kendatire.com/en/motorcycle/street/kruz/

It seems there are so many bikes on the road now that waving is a chore and distracting. If they wave I nod otherwise I don't typically. A side note that I was reading about on M/C etiquette is that when they ride as a group only the "Chase" or "Sweep," (many different terms here), acknowledges a wave. Perhaps that was why no one else waved in the group you drove past...

^^^^ What he said. I have them too.

I have used Pure-One for 3 bikes. 27,000 miles on the first. 45,000 the second and so far 17,000 on the third. They were pushing something and I think it may be oil. YMMV Have a great day.

A far as the oil goes you can change back with no issues. The past problems with seals leaking had to do with the way synthetic oils were formulated back when they were first introduced. Should be no problems now. Secondly your rear tire can make a loud howl if the sides of the face are cupped, being run with too little pressure, or both. Was the noise more prominent when you were taking a curve?

I ran Pirelli RT66 tires on an 06 TD. They are probably the best rain tire I have used. They are a soft compound and I believe they wore out at 11,000 miles for the rear and 16,000 for the front. The carcass is softer also and has a cushy ride which means they wallow a bit in the corners on such a big bike. Generally an ok tire overall by my estimate and I rate them very good if rain is an issue for you. My son now has the the TD and he is running Shinko on it. They seem to do very well so far and from what we have researched they are likely made with more natural rubber then more expensive tires. They will wear faster and will be cheaper, but they stick to the road like glue, and a recent ride in the rain proved it for us. We are changing our own tires so mounting costs are not an issue for us as we can change them often. I now have an 06 Venture and am running a Kenda on the front and Pirelli on the rear. Not a good combination... The Kenda seems to be a good tire as they are very stiff and seem built for heavy bikes. They are very precise in handling and transmit a lot of surface chatter from the road up the handlebars. I have removed the air pressure from the front forks to compensate and with 36 pounds pressure they feel pretty good. With the Pirelli being softer and a little more "squishy," the bike does not feel planted well in the turns as the two tires handle differently. I am going to go with the Kenda for the rear when this wears out as I think the handling and price point work well for me...

Was there a sound of air sucking into the tank when you took the cap off? Also when you run it with the cap off take it for a easy ride with it off. The vent hole may be clogged. Just a thought.