saddlebum

Have you thought about using arched ramps. Also I guess you needed the extra room on the trailer for the cases of Apple Pie

At least you know its getting their attention.

Sad to hear Rod but stick around just the same. If we can put up with a bikeless @Flyinfoolwe can put up with anybody

the thermo switch should be threaded into the thermostat housing. If the fuse is ok try the following. if a single wire goes to the thermo switch disconnect it and with the key on ground the wire if the fan is ok it should run. If it is a double wire disconnect it and jump the 2 wires together the fan should run. If it does you likely need a new thermal switch or in the case of the 2 wire set up a noise filter. if you can get to the 2 wire connector for the fan you can put 12volts directly to the fan to see if the fan itself works or not. if it does not and you can find no fault in the wiring going to the fan then you likely need a new fan. On my bike I installed a fan override switch so I could manually turn the fan on early if I want to or as a backup if the thermo switch should ever fail.

With my 1st Gen MK2 I actually went back to a PIAA hi output Halogen bulb after trying three different LED's. Although the LED was brighter I found it lacked projection, proper focus and definition of road objects with 90% of the light cast being directly in front allowing for much less reaction time. It is my belief that the reflector design is not well suited to the proper focusing of the LED bulb. On the other hand if you can replace the entire headlight with a self contained LED sealed beam as you would be able too with the MK1 83-85 and other bikes that use a sealed beam or were the headlight can be replace with a complete sealed beam unit, it would be very effective since the LED and reflector are designed to work together. some examples of sealed beam LED headlights. https://www.grote.com/white-light/forward-lighting/led-sealed-beam-headlights/

The neutral switch is a grounding switch in other words instead of switching the 12 vlt pos side of a circuit it switches the ground side of a circuit on/off. Because of that the switch itself cannot cause a fuse to blow if it were shorted to ground. instead if it were shorted to ground the neutral light would stay on all the time. However if the brown wire from the signal fuse was shorted across to the light/green wire to the neutral as in having rubbed together somewhere in the circuit this would blow the signal fuse. As you can see in the schematic the neutral switch also provides ground signal for the carb heater relay, the starting circuit and the igniter unit as well as the neutral light. Carb heater relay - disconect relay and/or connector to see if issue continues disconnect connector at relay connect test light or voltmeter to ground and test for currant at light green wire on connector it should light up or show voltage. disconnect eight pin connector at igniter unit, carb heater relay, and 12 pin connector at starting circuit cut off relay assembly. recheck for voltage as in test #2. if no voltage this time circuit should be Ok. If there is voltage go to test #4 While performing voltage check as in test #2 remove signal fuse. If indication of voltage goes away there the light green wire from the neutral switch and the brown wire from the signal fuse have shorted together somewhere in the circuit.

does it happen only on left or right or both? does it matter if handlebars are straight ahead or when they are turned ? (if only occurs while turning handlebars check for wiring fault in and around steering head and handle bars) With the bike parked and turning turn signals on first right and then left does one of the lights appear dimmer than the others? (check for wiring fault or short to ground in wiring feeding the dimmer bulb ) Check for a faulty bulb specially the dual filament bulbs in front ( they have been known to develop an internal short across the dual filaments strong enough to blow fuse and often times this issue can be intermittent. Check wiring around steering head going up to cluster for possible chaffing Follow the front signal light wires to a 6 pin connector with only 5 pins used I think it may be a blue connector and pull connector apart. Retry using your signals if issue went away the issue is between that connector and signals. Go to step 7. If it is still there wiring from connector to signals is OK. Go to step 8. Disconnect connector at rear going to rear lights. (if issue goes away check wiring to rear lights if still there check forward upstream of connector). Check wiring between blue connector and handle bar switch. 99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture schematic.pdf

Hey @cowpucmaybe you could really fine tune them with a guitar tuner like this https://www.long-mcquade.com/6263/Guitars/Tuners/Apex-Electronics/Clip-On-Chromatic-Tuner.htm or one of the free tuner apps you can put on your cell phone. Might be right handy for those who have a tin ear.

Late as Usual but hope you had a happy birthday just the same.

No I actually have long legs. I can put my feet down flat and still slightly bend my knees. My inseam is 35". This is the extended part. It replaces the short part that comes standard with the highway pedal.https://www.kuryakyn.com/products/559/male-mount-footpeg-extensions

Ok I am assuming when you say yellow/blue you really mean blue/yellow (Ly) and when you say black/blue you really mean blue/black (LB) With wiring were there are two colors the wire color comes first and the color of the strip on that wire comes second Ly would be blue wire with yellow strip. LB would be blue wire with black strip.

If the side stand switch or the clutch switch were faulty you would not be able to crank the engine over and since you can I would assume they are OK. I do not have a lot of second gen experience but I am good with electrical regardless so studying the following schematics. I will try to help best I can. In my experience as a mechanic schematics are your best friend regardless of the vehicle. DO THE FOLLOWING CHECKS WITH ALL CONNECTORS DISCONNECTED AT THE IGNITER UNIT check the connectors at your igniter unit to be sure the contacts are all clean and secure. If not clean and repair (particularly look for greenish powdery looking stuff known as terminal fretting ) Looking at the 6 pin connector from the igniter unit test the black wire for proper ground connection With ignition switch on check for GROUND at the blue/black on the 8 pin connector. (if no ground check Ignition switch see test #9, neutral switch and and clutch switch) Check the Black/white wire at 4 pin connector for ground ( if no ground check the the emergency fall over sensor switch ) Check the red/black wire going to the coils (this should have 12VOLTS with key on and stop switch in run position) Check the sky blue wire at the at the 8 pin connector 1st with bike in neutral and then with bike in gear. In one position this wire should show good ground and in the other position No ground. (if no ground check Ignition switch see test #9, neutral switch and and clutch switch) Connect an ohmmeter between the yellow wire and blue wire at the 8 pin connector and roll the throttle. Resistance should vary up and down as you roll the throttle back and forth. You can check manual for exact spec range to be more precise if needed. Connect an Ohmmeter between the black/blue and the white/red wires on the 8 pin connector. These are the two wires going to your pickup coil and should read 189 to 231 ohms. Disconnect connectors at ignition switch connect ohmmeter between blue/yellow and blue/black should show closed circuit with switch on and open circuit with switch off. If any of the above tests fail back track the faulty circuit until you find the cause. I start by tracing back to the next connector until I find at which connector the issue begins and then check the wiring between the connector that test out good and the one that test out bad. this is a quick way to isolate were the issue exists rather than randomly jumping all over the board hoping to get get lucky. https://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09 Yamaha Royal Star Venture Wiring Diagram Rev B.pdf

They do benefit riders with short legs though.

What......There is a counter on it too

Assuming the floor is 1-1/2 inches thick you could recess e-tracks down each side and that opens you up to all kinds of flexibility by allowing you to move your tie points were you need them. You can even get ratchet straps designed specially to fit the e-tracks. https://www.dccargomall.com/e-a-track-tie-downs.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=CjwKCAjwzMeFBhBwEiwAzwS8zI_2fpKEqpIGbmjs01oYzoZrQQ361eqhAp8x4m1tjFCnJOZRQr-c4hoCuOwQAvD_BwE

Good choice

or enter a highway doing 2/3rds of the highway speed instead coming up to speed on the ramp prior to merging on the highway.

Purina dog chow was what we snacked on occasionally as kids.

Glad to hear you are progressing in the right direction. Hang in there and keep up the work. Remember Determination is you friend.

And if not .......keep it away from @Marcarlcus he will polish just enough to shame you into polishing the rest. Trust me I know I know

Never said it was Its just a handy excuse for a guy like me who spends 10 plus hours a day fixing trucks and the last thing I want to see when I get home is another wrench. This winter since I have been off work due to covid It has received a lot of attention though.

I would go with Aluminum. Aluminum alloys have come a long way in recent years and tend not to be as brittle as they once were giving them better flex than years ago. This is why you will see lots of transport company's are now using aluminum trailers even in flatbeds. The lighter trailer allows them to increase their payload and I have not seen any major issues with them when they come in the shop. Stainless fasteners is the way to go (just make sure they have a high enough tensile strength and if you do end up using steel bolts place stainless flat washers under head and nut. Any steel brackets you attach should be separated from direct contact with the aluminum. Recommended material's for separation is thin sheets of hard nylon or polyurethane type plastics. For a more solid mounting use a 1/8" thick piece of aluminum as sacrificial shim or spacer, this gives a more solid mounting than a soft spacer but you may have to replace it every so many years. As far as the floor goes you can either spray with a grit coating or cover with a thin sheet of plywood fastened down with stainless screws. You can get them with wood instead of aluminum floors as well but that would add to the weight.

Before putting a new one on check to see if you have any oil leaks. If you do than replace it with an HD badge

Wifey wants to know if it works on husbands

Whats wrong with that ain't that right up there with if it ain't broke don't fix it.