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V7Goose

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  1. V7Goose
    Dan, you don't need to worry much about documenting the service. If you are going to buy new valve cover gaskets, that receipt will serve as appropriate documentation if you do your own work or take it to an independent mechanic. Another option is to simply take a picture of the bike with the valve covers off. US law guarantees that you have the right to do your own work without voiding the warranty, and any reasonable evidence that it was done, such as receipts for parts, oil, etc., is sufficient. As for the gaskets, I have mixed feelings there. These gaskets are thick soft rubber, and the torque spec for the cover is so low it does not really compress them, so I suspect they can be reused without problems. BUT, it is so much work to get the covers off, I'd be heartbroken if I had to go back in to fix a leak. Because of that, I generally recommend you spend the $40 necessary to buy new gaskets. Goose
  2. V7Goose
    Good ideas, but those minor drops in the voltage readings are consistent with longer runs of thinner wires, just like you find in the specific circuits under test. Everything looks normal there to me (other than the fact the magic radio is still refusing to operate).. Goose
  3. V7Goose
    That is for a 2003 model year. Goose
  4. V7Goose
    Interesting - I stand corrected. I do not know which year owner's manual that comes from, but the 05 owner's manual and the 1999 RSV shop manual both refer to this fuse as the "Backup" fuse. And the fuse box on my 05 is also labeled as "Backup". It is good to know that some years apparently used a different name for it - thank you. Goose
  5. V7Goose
    COSuperfly, you may need to wait for me to split my own fairing in the next day or two for me to point you to the appropriate checks for the combined fairing grounds - these are not identified on the schematic. I'll get in there either tomorrow or Friday. But you can see a drawing of the main fairing ground on page 8-54 of the shop manual. This wire is on the shifter side of the radio. But in the mean time, I would like you to check if the tail light is coming on with the key. The headlight will share the combined fairing ground, but I'm pretty sure that the tail light will use a different ground path back to the battery, so it should be coming on. If it is not, pull the headlight fuse and check for 12V on one of the connections when the key is ON. Goose
  6. V7Goose
    There is nothing called an "Odometer fuse" on a 2nd gen. If you are referring to the Backup fuse, he has already verified that.
  7. V7Goose
    It wouldn't hurt to go ahead and verify you have 12V to one of the Backup fuse connections just like you did for the Audio fuse. It is unlikely you will have a problem with the wiring here, but since you already have the fuse box open, it is an easy check. I am only focusing on the audio system since you say everything is totally dead. Under the circumstances, it is highly unlikely that you have two different problems, so whatever gets the radio to turn on will most likely fix all the problems - but that also means that the problem has to be something that is common to both the audio system and the dash (because you do not have any dash warning lights) I am still looking at the schematic for the next check, but I am suspecting a ground problem inside the fairing. I believe there is a ground wire connection on the left side of the subframe around the radio (going from memory), along with a large braided ground wire that ties this frame back to the main frame or engine. Go ahead and split the fairing and do a manual inspection of the wires around there, and I'll give you more ideas soon. Goose
  8. V7Goose
    Well sir, you have said that you get no power to the radio at all when you turn the key to ACC, but the tests you have just done show that the ignition switch and the ACC power circuits are working fine, as well as the ground return circuit from the front forks. I can see two possibilities for the radio being dead: 1. The radio is turned off. In this case, you would still see the dim orange light in the buttons when the key is in the ACC position, and the radio should come on immediately if you hit the Audio button. 2. Your 10A Backup fuse is blown - this will kill the radio even with the key on. Please test both the Audio fuse and the Backup fuse and let me know. Goose
  9. V7Goose
    Since you say there is no power to anything, ACC or key on, we'll start with a couple of basic tests. The ignition switch has two plugs - the two-wire plug has a big red wire which is the power in, and a brown/blue wire, which is the power out with the key ON. The three wire plug has a brown/black wire, which is the power out with the key in ACC. To test these wires, you need to find a small solid wire or straight pin that you can slip in the back of the plug next to the wire and touch the back of the metal pin inside the plug. TEST 1: Start with the key off and the negative meter lead on the battery negative terminal. Do not disconnect the plugs. Use the pin to test the RED wire in the plug for +12V. TEST 2: Assuming you have 12V on the red wire, turn the key to ACC and switch to the BROWN/BLACK wire in the other plug to the ignition switch. Probe that wire from the back just like you did for the red wire - it should also have +12V. TEST 3: Assuming you find 12V there, move the negative meter lead from the battery to something metal on the front forks and test the BROWN/BLACK wire again - you should still get +12V. This test just verifies the ground circuit from the front end back to the battery. If it is good, you can make all the remaining tests with the negative lead back on the battery negative terminal. At this point, I am going to assume you have 12V on the red wire and 12V on the brown/black wire with the key in ACC. So now we are gong to check the power distribution on the ACC circuit by testing for 12V in three different places: TEST 4.1: Check for 12V on the center contact in the bottom of the accessory power plug in the left side of the fairing. TEST 4.2: There is a flat white plug near the back left corner of the battery - this is the rear accessory plug. Pull off the cap and test for 12V on the BROWN/BLACK or BROWN/RED wire in this plug (the schematic is not clear which color wire you might see, but I think it will be brown/black). TEST 4.3: Now go to the #1 fuse box and remove the AUDIO fuse. Test for 12V on both of the fuse connections in the fuse block (only one of them should be 12V, but I cannot tell you which one). Make those tests and let me know what you find and we will go from there. Goose
  10. V7Goose
    What, you too much of a wuss to RIDE that bike down here? Shame on you. ;-) I think a delay in dropping the revs like you describe is because you are probably running more off your main jets than the pilot jets (that is why I mentioned the amount of vacuum it should pull at idle). I've seen that before, but not on a bike that I had here where I could work on it, so I don't have a definitive answer for you. I'd be happy to look at it for you, but I guess you'll have to find a real man to ride it down here first. Goose
  11. V7Goose
    Yes, you ARE getting a phenomenal deal! I've heard of shops that will do it for $20, but I suspect you have found the one and only shop on this continent that will do it for less than $10. Goose
  12. V7Goose
    The HF Leakdown tester is NOT a good tool. The manual says it can handle anything up to 100 lbs input pressure, but this is a flat lie. The second gauge is only a 15 lb max gauge, so if you use anything over 15 lbs input, you destroy it. In addition, I could not find any restriction orifice between the two gauges - this seems to explain the dishonest use of the low pressure gauge on the cylinder side (it makes it LOOK like it is working like a real leakdown tester instead of just a cheap gauge connected to a hose). Although the tool DOES work if you keep the pressure down, I do not feel a max 15 lbs is appropriate, as I suspect it will not properly diagnose some issues, and the low air flow volume will make it more difficult to identify where it is escaping. The HF tool is $40 - you can buy a good tool for $80. I do buy a lot of HF stuff, but this tool went back! Goose
  13. V7Goose
    Randy, I do not agree with you that the valves on a 2nd gen can be checked in just a couple of hours - there is just too much that has to be removed to even get the valve covers off. This is a MAJOR job, and IMHO any shop that quotes less than $300 is either totally ignorant of this machine or just does not plan on doing the work at all. You are of coarse correct that the amount of time required increases if any valves are found out of tolerance, but in my experience, the amount of time needed to change shims on even six valves is relatively minor to the amount of time required for this entire job. I have no doubts that a good mechanic experienced on this bike and just focused on the work instead of teaching would complete the job is much less time than I do, but I would still be dumbfounded if I ever saw someone do it in two hours! I have not personally seen the flat-rate manual figures for this job, but I seem to recall hearing that is was six hours. Goose
  14. V7Goose

    Tire ???

    V7Goose replied to Verninator's topic in Watering Hole

    Technology changes and requires more info than the existing measurements can cover. For example, way back in the 60s and 70s (and long before), all bike tires were pretty similar in construction and profile, so the only tire size designation was width x rim diameter, such as a 4.50 x 18. Then they started making different tire profiles that changed the height of the tire from the rim, so they needed a different designation that could cover that too. The 150/80 designation covers both the width and the height by using the second number as a percentage of the width. Then just to confuse things more, old measurements are in inches and new ones are in mm. I'm sure there is some other special need that was covered by the new MV designation, but frankly, I have been too disinterested to research it. Of course, they could just be deliberately trying to confuse the customers so you can't buy different brands . . . (that's a bit negative, but manufacturers have been known to do things like that before!). Goose
  15. V7Goose

    Tire ???

    V7Goose replied to Verninator's topic in Watering Hole

    The Dunlop web site lists this specific bike and the recommended tire size. Any dealer that cannot figure that out is questionable in all other areas - I would be very concerned in believing anything they say without cross-checking. Hopefully it was just an ignorant kid on the parts counter that didn't have a clue that there are multiple different tire size designations. But still . . . The correct rear E3 is an MV85-15. Goose
  16. V7Goose
    I don't know what you read that said you could ignore it for 100,000 miles, but in my opinion, that would demonstrate an extraordinary lack of intelligence. The maintenance spec says you need to check the valves every 26,600 miles. I do not recommend exceeding that requirement, but I can understand people pushing it to maybe 50,000 miles. More than that is just dumb or exceptionally lazy. Yes, I'm sure that some people do and get away with it, but others try and pay a price. Under warranty, make sure you do it within the required spec. Out of warranty, the ballpark figure I would give you is 30,000 - 40,000 miles, unless you make a practice of regularly hitting the rev limiter and power shifting, in which case I would absolutely check it by 30,000. Goose
  17. V7Goose
    Glad you got the bike for a good price. Having to replace a brake master or slave is absolutely a common result of leaving a machine to sit and age instead of regular use - good for you that at least one was taken care of before you took ownership. Hopefully the others will keep working. Hard starting and needing lots of choke is a prime symptom of clogged primary jets. If the jets are only partially clogged (all the pipes are heating up fine at idle AND you have at least 10" Hg vacuum on all cylinders), then repeated use of a fuel treatment like Seafoam or 44K will probably eventually clean them out. But it is going to take a long time and many tanks of treated fuel to finish the job. I strongly recommend you pull the carbs and do a good manual inspection and cleaning. Hope you have a long and enjoyable relationship with that machine! Goose
  18. V7Goose

    Advice

    V7Goose replied to Sailor's topic in Watering Hole

    Well sir, it is impossible to diagnose it from here with only that info, but I'd be pretty worried if it was mine. Blowing lots of blue under hard acceleration is not valve guides or valve seals - those tend to cause lots of blue on engine start after sitting overnight, but after it burns off the first oil, you never see any smoke while running. Typically, lots of blue under hard acceleration is rings or damaged cylinder wall. With so few miles on the bike, it certainly is not worn out, and the fact that it is only smoking from one side supports a diagnosis of problems with a single cylinder. The very low miles could actually be a contributor to this problem; there is a very slight possibility that during one or more of those extended "sit and rot" sessions that the bike has done over the past nine years that fuel has seeped continually through a carb and open intake valve and slowly trickled by the rings, building up nasty varnish that has caused the rings to stick. But like I said, that is unlikely. More plausible would be a broken ring or some contaminate like a small stone that dropped into the cylinder when the plugs were changed. Another typical cause would be some rust starting from condensation during winter storage - that not only ruins the cylinder wall, but the rust gets forced into the rings and causes them to stick. A compression test or leak down test would help pinpoint the bad cylinder and how bad the problem is, but the only way you are going to actually know is to tear down the engine. I certainly would not continue to ride it since that kind of problem can get much worse pretty quick. I hope you find that it is minor instead of major! Goose
  19. V7Goose
    The motorcycle adaptor is no longer being made, so be sure you can find one in stock somewhere before you spend the money on the base unit! I just happened to see one being returned a couple of weeks ago to one of the local stores here (Irving, TX), so let me know if you want me to go check to see if they still have it. Goose
  20. V7Goose
    There is really not much to do to organize a maintenance day - you just pick a date and post here to invite all who desire to come. That's all you need to do. No food or special arrangements are expected or needed, but some people choose to do those things too. The only other thing to consider is maybe making sure you have someone there who is fairly knowledgeable and handy on the maintenance things, since the majority of people who show up are there to get some help. If you have the skills, that is covered. If not, then you should probably look for a commitment from at least one other person who can fill that bill. Also, try to avoid letting people get their hopes up on doing major repairs or major maintenance things like valves. A maintenance day should focus on things that can generally be handled without special tools and in less than two hours. Goose
  21. V7Goose
    Any of the solid-state fuel pumps with a low enough pressure can work as a permanent replacement just fine. You just need to check the specs on both pumps to be sure that the pressure is OK. Just going from memory here, but I think that most of those pumps have about 7 lbs pressure and out bike only uses 3 lbs. Check the tech library - I believe that Ponch did a great write-up on this replacement. Goose
  22. V7Goose
    That is not necessary, but for some of us it seems to be a normal inclination. I often find myself waiting for it to stop without thinking about it. As long as the pump is clicking, at least one of the float bowls is not quite full, but that does not mean there isn't enough gas to start the engine. Unless the bike has been sitting for a week or more, you should be able to just hit the starter as soon as the key is on and it should fire right up. Goose
  23. V7Goose
    Well, you mentioned you 'checked' a lot of things, and even replaced some things without determining if they were really bad first, but you didn't mention using a volt meter at all except for saying the battery voltage was good. Starting with the fuses was the obvious first thing, but after that, making random checks is not the best way to stumble on the problem. Since you are dealing with a complete lack of power, this should be very easy to find. Get out the schematic and volt meter and start actually checking for voltage where it is supposed to be. Start with the main plug for the ignition switch to see if there is voltage going IN to the switch; this will quickly let you know if you should concentrate back near the battery and main fuse or some of those other places you have been thinking about. Make all the voltage checks using the negative lead on the battery ground terminal, not some random place on the engine or frame. Not everyone knows how to read a schematic (and Yamahaha's version sucks), so let me know if you need help and I'll dig it out and give you specific test points. Goose
  24. V7Goose
    Unless you do your own work, expect to pay considerably more. Any bike that old which has only been run about 1,000 miles a year has done a LOT of sitting and rotting. At a minimum, I would absolutely pull the carbs and do a good inspection and cleaning - not too hard, but a couple of hundred bucks at a dealer (and I wouldn't really trust them to fully inspect and clean everything unless there was a specific problem they had to fix). Hard to tell what other "minor" issues will need to be dealt with. The bigger worry for me would be for possible internal corrosion on bearings, gear faces, etc. Lots of condensation and oil acids have been at work on that bike over the years. It may not be evident now, but even if it runs great, I would not expect it to last as long as it would if it already had 100,000 miles on it. The bike does not have any particular weaknesses other than the cracking trunk and antennas falling off, but that kind of abuse can destroy any machine. Good luck, Goose
  25. V7Goose
    Your pump is behaving exactly as if the gas is not on. Your tests proved it could push gas through a carb, so the only two possibilities that come to mind right now would be either the fuel was not turned back on when you got all done and did that last test, or the pressure switch in the pump is not working to shut it off. If you had a stuck float, it is extremely unlikely that any fuel would be getting into the oil anyway. That would require an intake valve to be open and the gas to flow by the piston rings in the cylinder - something that happens very slowly. In addition, that gas would have to be squirting through the tiny holes in the jets, which could not possibly handle the full pump volume. If a float is stuck, the gas would be pumped out one of the overflow hoses that open in front of the air filters. I personally do not know anything about a check valve in the pump, but even if there is one, I doubt if it could cause that problem. First, when the carbs are full, the bowls are cut off from the input line by the float valve, so they are staying full no matter what. Second, there is a very short hose between the pump and the carbs, and everything behind the pump is up hill to the fuel in the tank, so there will be a fair amount of head pressure on there. It would be impossible for any appreciable amount of fuel to flow back through the pump since liquid is not compressible and the three lbs rating of that pump could not possibly push against the head pressure on the fuel line. If there is a problaem with a valve inside the pump, it would not be that fuel is flowing backwards after it is shut off, just that the pump cannot build up the three lbs pressure needed to shut it off. I suggest you repeat the open drain test on just one carb to prove that fuel is indeed flowing now. Put the hose back on the carb drain and open the valve while holding the end of the hose ABOVE the carb level and turn on the key. Depending on how long the hose is, you may have to cycle the key more than once to fill the hose and refill the carb, but if the gas begins spurting from the hose, put your thumb on the hose to see if the pump shuts off. If it does not, I'd suspect a bad pressure valve. One last point - listen to the speed of the clicks - are they slowing down prior to stopping? If so, then it indicates a build-up of pressure/reduced flow, which is normal. If it is still clicking at full speed, then either there is no gas to the pump, the internals of the pump are bad, or it is just pumping it straight through to somewhere. Goose
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