MikeWa

The floor boards not only hit first but they have hardened inserts in them to take the abuse where they hit. Also since the floor boards are spring loaded they allow some margin when scraping. Mike

The intercom (IC) is an always on device. With the IC volume up it will pick up engine and road noise through the mic. The noise is amplified and sent to the headset or speakers. I use this when I am trying to sort out unusual noises. Mike

Old Goat I am with you 100%. Since I have nothing good to say about this I will shut up and go back in my hole before I get in trouble. Mike USAF Veteran Vietnam Veteran Disabled Veteran Pissed Off American If you have the right to disrespect our flag, our country and all it stands for. Then I have the right to disrespect you and all you stand for.

All I can say about those boner pill commercials is those women want me. They really do. They can't help themselves. I can tell. Mike

You may be picking up through the intercom. Make sure that volume is off and retry. Mike

That is good news, indeed. Mike

Your welcome Mike

I had a Windows 7 machine I liked really well. Then I uploaded sp1 into it. It brought the machine to a halt. All functions were so slow as to make it useless. The worst part was I couldn't get rid of it. Even with restore. So I was forced to go to Windows 10 Which I hate. So if you get a Windows 7 machine be wary of sp1. Mike

If you have a restore function --use it. Mike

Is that regular grass and water or premium? Mike

The link is in the technical section of the forums. 2nd gen wiring diagrams and such. Here is a copy of the link. http://labs.trunkful.com/vrmanuals/index.cfm Mike

Congrats Larry. Enjoy the ride. Mike

Thanks David Mike

Any part numbers available? Mike

Agreed. In the permanent magnet generator system used on bikes excess voltage (which can be quite high) is sent to ground by the regulator. I just hadn't given much thought to current control. I just assumed, without looking, that it was similar to an automobile or demand controlled. ie: As the battery becomes charged resistance increases and current flow decreases. And as the accessory load increases or decreases current demand follows. I never considered that current flow would always be at maximum with the unused portion shorted to ground. If that is what occurs it seems a rather inefficient power robbing heat generating waste. Sounds about right. Mike

Recently I posted about my battery going dead without warning. Well thinking back I now believer there was plenty of warning. I just overlooked it. When I first started putting this bike on a maintainer. The kind with led indicators. The maintainer would switch from red, charging, to green, charged, very quickly. The change would occur in under five minutes. But for the last few months it has been taking considerably longer. I passed it off as riding habit change or maybe the battery was getting older or weather. Truth is I didn't think very much about it at all. So long as it eventually turned green everything was ok. I thought. Now that I have replaced the battery the led switch over occurs very quickly again. Under five minutes. So it seems I was getting warning of an impending failure after all. All this makes me wonder if continuing to run a tired battery was adding unnecessary stress to the charging system. I suppose it is possible that pushing batteries beyond their useful life could be responsible for some early charging system failures. Could create extra heat trying to keep up with an old, tired and worn out battery. Food for thought. Mike

I hated helmet laws for all the reasons already mentioned. Right up until I felt the padding in my helmet give as my head hit the asphalt. Who ever said these things happen in slow motion was correct. I remember thinking "boy I sure am glad I am wearing this helmet". I could feel the inner padding absorbing the impact and saving me from a fractured skull or worse. If I wasn't required to be wearing the helmet I wouldn't have been. Point is, I no longer complain about helmet laws. Mike

I don't know about the wiring on that bike but these things often use a common ground connection. I would look to one of three areas. Low power, poor ground or bulb interference. For low power put a meter on the battery (not running is ok) turn on the turn signal and see if the meter flickers. Next find an input wire for power to the tail light and repeat the test. Power should be steady. Next check the ground connection for tightness. You can jumper a ground to the tail light to confirm it is ok or not. Check the bulbs for connection and filaments. It should show up in one of these tests. Mike

Thanks for the replies. The problem was solved. It was the battery. It was just strange the way it failed. The bike lives on a maintainer. It cranked and started right up. Then it died. A test light across the battery worked until any kind of load was applied then it went completely out. I will never know what the batteries internal problem was because I used it for a core. Mike

Got on the bike for a short ride. Every thing was normal. Pulled the choke and the bike started right up. Revved the gas once and it died. Lost all electrical power. No lights, no dash. In fact no tach or anything else. I am not a happy camper. Thinking of the main fuse or ignition switch or who knows what. And if it is the main fuse then how come. No good possibilities are coming from my thoughts. Ok so I check the battery with a test light and clean the terminals. Yep has power. But the cleaning was no help. Next I pull the passengers step to access the main fuse. Crap there is a plastic cover on the fuse that is nearly impossible to dislodge. Finally I get to the fuse and it tests ok. Power on both sides. Of course I am thinking ignition switch. I have the bypass kit. I just never got around to installing it. One more check before heading to the ignition switch. I attempt to load check the cable from the solenoid and main fuse to the battery positive. So I connect my test light and turn the key on. Before I even get to the crank position I loose all power. Everything. Now there is nothing at the battery when the key is on. Hmmm could it be. I have not had a battery fail before and stop a running engine. Let alone show good voltage and then nothing with a miniscule load. So I pull the battery and take it to O'Reilly's and have it tested. The clerk says it is good, just needs to be charged. Not possible. My batteries live on a maintainer. Since I am riding first thing in the morning I go ahead and purchase an AGM battery. Sorry Skydoc I just couldn't wait. Does it fix the bike? You bet it does. Everything is back to normal. Except me of course. My wife says I will never be normal. But that is another story. Mike

Big spender. ) Mike

These are your pet peeves. No problem is usually short for 'no problem happy to be of assistance'. Wow. So go ahead, be pissed off at someone trying to be polite back to you. Just wait until you say thanks and someone replies "up yours". You will probably have a new 'pet peeve'. Mike

Marine is usually better sealed against the elements. Mike

Agreed Mike

Actually when pressing the piston back into the caliper it is best to open the bleeder a little. Use a hose and container to catch the fluid. That way fluid is forced out of the system rather than pushed back into the master cylinder. This greatly reduces the chances of damage to the system. When finished be sure to top off the fluid. Mike