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camos

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Everything posted by camos

  1. camos
    I did say way back that the fan would run when connected directly to the battery however, there was no fuse in that circuit so the fan could still be causing the problem. Agreed twigg, under normal circumstances a switch should not be necessary. In this case, I have an unused switch with wires that go down to the area of the fan so hooking it to a fused circuit will be easy. This would tell me if the fan is the issue and would provide a temporary alternative if the fan is working properly.
  2. camos
    I'll try to remember to take some pix. They might end up getting installed in a convenient place rather than where I want them due to time constraints though. The lights I ordered are standard type 5 3/4" headlight buckets with hi/lo capability so it is probably not necessary to get into anything fancy like using diodes. Never thought of trying NAPA, ours is a bit small but perhaps they can order them if necessary. No Autozone here. Thanks for the link. I'll update this thread when something starts happening, which hopefully will be soon. Only 20 more days to Cody. I do believe I'm getting excited.
  3. camos
    Does anyone have a source for H4 headlight plugs? I have a pair of headlights coming that I want to hook up to the stock Hi/Lo beam switch through a pair of relays. If I can get some male and female H4 plugs and sockets the wiring can be kept reversible back to stock.
  4. camos
    I thought so too but not so lucky this time. Sure hope it is not the fan that is faulty and blowing the fuse.
  5. camos
    Boy did you hit the nail on the head. The fuse blew again so still no fan and it boiled over again but this time with coolant in the system. Tomorrow I will pull the sensor switch see if I can find anything wrong with it. The countdown to Cody is on and time is tight so depending on the result of testing the sensor I will be hooking up a fused manual switch directly from the battery. That was my assessment as well. I'll keep an eye on it now that it is full.
  6. camos
    While it is not light bar specific but rather LEDs for the whole bike. Here is the list of parts that were used: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=600022&postcount=2
  7. camos
    I know it is a bummer but I expect the light bar will not be getting done before I leave for Cody. Got a new set of headlights coming which I hope to get installed before I leave though. The stock taillight and turn signals will have to be good enough. Besides, I'll be traveling with Sailor and SilvrT so they will be behind me and can act as my running and brake lights. I'll be sure to keep a steady pace so they don't get too far behind.
  8. camos
    My faith is now restored in Yamaha. Of course, a light bar is such a very good idea that it should have been originally supplied by Yamaha. Good, one less thing to remove and/or break off.
  9. camos
    Eureka, you have got it, the fan fuse was blown. This ATC fuse block is just behind and to the right of the front holder tab for the top cover. It's interesting that there would be a mix of the ATC style and glass tube style fuses. The hose in question is the one from the fan sensor to a block between the front and back cylinders. Perhaps pulsing is the wrong term. The hose kind of bobs up and down. This may just be an indication that the coolant level was low. Remember this bike has not been ridden for over a year and I had not gotten to checking the coolant level. Since it has boiled over, been drained and refilled with only water and the fan does work so I will not have to be removing the radiator... I will fill the system with antifreeze today. Perhaps that bobbing will then go away.
  10. camos
    So is there any reason to take the light bar off the trunk? Although I only wanted to replace the turn signal at this time I do like the idea of upgrading to LED's. Hopefully there will be enough time to do it before leaving for Cody. After being very impressed with the thought and engineering that went into creating and building the fairing I am just appalled that Yamaha could supply an essential piece of equipment that was so difficult to maintain.
  11. camos
    That does seem to be the best solution. Jumping between the blue and brown connectors gets nothing. Putting a pos from battery to the blue gets small sparks. Fan runs when connecting pos and neg from battery to connector on left side. Can you tell me where the fuse for the fan is located? It is not listed in the fuse panel with the ignition and headlights etc. I have only ridden this bike for a few hours in total, most of which was yesterday. The bike has been run several times while in storage and no overheating or coolant puddles were noticed. The switch body was loose so I turned it until it stopped. After the first time it boiled I drained and flushed the cooling system but only filled with plain water just in case I had to pull the radiator to deal with the fan. Yesterday while riding the temp gauge stayed at 1/3 in the green and only got up to a bit below 1/2 when stopped for lights. I am just going to guess that would indicate the pump is working well enough. Also when the motor is operating pulsing can be seen in the black hose on the right side running from forward to about the middle of the engine so it appears coolant is circulating.
  12. camos
    I have had the sensor connector apart and cleaned the connections. I did not think to check to see if they were loose though. Today when I test the fan I will also check that connector and the ground. Thanks
  13. camos
    If I find the fan is working with a direct connection to the battery I will try a new cap as you suggest. I know there is a thread with several part numbers for aftermarket radiator caps. Finding a particular thread on this site might be the bigger challenge though. Thanks for the suggestion Twigg.
  14. camos
    Not that I can see all the way round the fan but it does not look like there is anything that would be stopping the fan from turning. Today was the first time I have ridden the VR so not a lot of experience with the fan at this point. During my several rides today the temp gauge sat at about 1/3 the way up the gauge. It was not until I had returned home and was messing with the lights while idling that it boiled over again. During the winter while the VR was in storage I ran the engine several times until it got 3/4 of the way up the gauge which was about 20 minutes or so. No boiling over but never looked to see if the fan was working. Perhaps with the warmer weather the fan is now needed to keep the temp down. Tomorrow I will connect the fan directly to the battery to see if it works. I have insurance on the VR now and will be commuting to work on it starting Monday. Sure hope to get the fan working before then in case the traffic gets backed up.
  15. camos
    I knew that but was wondering what the purpose of installing a manual switch was. Depending on how it is wired, a manual switch could turn on the fan before the sensor turned it on or the fan could be turned off after the sensor had turned it on. Or the sensor could be totally bypassed so the fan could be turned on whenever it was needed. There might be some benefit to being able to turn the fan on when you want it but it seems to me the automated switch should still be the best for all around usage. My switch was loose but not leaking. I disconnected the wires and turned it until it stopped then reconnected the wires. Assume that was not the problem as after a ride I was messing with the lights again and it boiled over again. During the ride the temp gauge was sitting about 1/3 of the way up the gauge. Found the fan connection on the left side and cleaned it before going on the ride. Tomorrow I'll hook up the fan directly to the battery and see if it works.
  16. camos
    Is the fan switch supposed to be in tight or will it normally be able to be turned by fingers? My fan isn't working so I'm thinking the fan switch is not properly installed. Why is it you want a relay to bypass the fan circuit?
  17. camos
    The light bar on the trunk has a burned out turn signal and only one tail/running light that works. Last night I removed the three screws inside the trunk but the bar did not budge. If I recall correctly this light bar does require heating to release the glue to separate the lens from the base but before I break something, should the light bar come off the trunk easily with the screws removed or is it necessary to pop the lens off first?
  18. camos
    Last night I had the VR idling (fast- 2000) for about 20 minutes while I fiddled with the headlight alignment and it boiled over. It has idled for longer than that in the past without boiling. The outside temp was about 66F so was probably not a factor. Could not hear the fan going so that is likely the cause of the problem. Did not find anything in the Tech Library and the search will not accept fan as a keyword so anything in particular I should know about troubleshooting this issue?
  19. camos
    It's not the washing your bike doesn't like, it's the MD's that are too traumatic for it to stand so it falls to pieces.
  20. camos
    A picture is worth a thousand words indeed. It's nice to see what the petcock switch is supposed to look like. Pull the knob and the faceplate off and that is what I have. It would be nice to come up with some kind of handle that will fit on the square shaft, well probably slightly rectangular shaft so it would not be so awkward to switch over. Anyway, until I get the CMS working I will have to rely on the reserve and/or the trip gauge. My Virago does not have a petcock, just a warning light and an electrically operated cylinder cutout to catch my attention. Thanks for all the responses, under the circumstances knowing how the reserve works is likely better than sleeping at a Holiday Inn. @ IslandMech: Were you asking about the CMS? The display stopped working while it was in storage. I tried re-soldering it twice but either didn't do it right or missed doing the part that was the problem. At least I did fix the gear indicator switch and no longer have the neutral light cutting out when the engine is hot. Tomorrow is insurance day and the first real ride for the VR and I.
  21. camos
    The CMS and therefore the gas gauge is not functioning. The knob and faceplate are missing from my petcock reserve switch. There is a stopper tab connected to the shaft that points fore or aft. Assuming OFF is in the middle, if the shaft is turned all the way clockwise would that be the REServe position or the On position?
  22. camos
    Listened to the Lone Ranger at 7pm on a crystal radio I built. When it was over I had to do my homework then go to bed.
  23. camos
    PayPal fee?
  24. camos
    Except for a worn contact point I don't see anything that appears less then good. Certainly did not find anything that looked like it would cause the gear indicator switch to stop working when it heated up. I cleaned the circle of contacts and the circle connectors on the wires. Tugged on all the connectors and they are solid. Cleaned the harness plug ends and cleaned the middle gear cover mating surfaces. Before I put the switch back together with the new spring, new contact point and new o-ring is there anything else that needs to be checked?
  25. camos
    I ride all year round and am now much less cautious in the wet since putting the E3s on my Virago a year ago.They are so much better than the Bridgestone Spitfire II tires that were on there before. Rarely get even a pucker from the tar snakes on my commute. Got 20,000 km (12,427 mi) on them now and they don't look like they are even half worn down. It's difficult imagine that the Avon tire is so much better than the E3's that anyone would choose to put up with cracking sidewalls and only 16,000 miles just to run them. The Virago is a light weight bike so comparing mileage is kinda like comparing apples to oranges. Anyway, that's my
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