bongobobny

Bald Mountain ad he points to his head, geez!! How did you ever manage to get a picture of a missile silo??? Were you sneaking around on Government property??

Don't think we will make it due to my recent surgery, but we will see them when they stay at Big Tom's...

Not necessarily a weird vehicle, but I once drove my '69 Firebird home about 1 mile with 4 flat tires while stoned...

I buy it by the gallon so it comes out to around five bucks a can...

I've read in the high 200's and an occasional very low 300...

Yes, these bikes run amazingly well on 3 cylinders!! When was the last time you replaced the plugs?? What brand and type did you use?? Regular NGK's should be replaced yearly, the Iridium ones 2 to 3 years. Are you using Seafoam regularly?? When is the last time you serviced your air cleaners?? How about the fuel filter?? Bad gas?? Questions, questions...

For myself, and ONLY for myself, my opinion on RV's and 5th wheel trailers have been for the money in the initial investment and the operating costs, I can buy a hell of a lot of nice hotel rooms for the night... Jay, I have a nice bottle of Carribean Rum waiting for you to come over...

To my knowledge, they are still an excellent place to buy from...

Yup!! $500 MAX if I was in a super good mood!! My response was according to the title of the thread, "SUPER NICE!!" A good running VR should bring fifteen hundred to a couple thousand depending on the year. A super nice one could bring $2500 to $3000 depending on how much modifications were made and just how super nice it is!! Keep in mind there are a few 1st Gen Ventures out there highly modified/updated that some of us may have spent several thousand dollars on improving them (Uhhh, I think I'm up to around 10 grand on everything so far on the rebuild...)

Using a blow torch comes to mind...

Keep us posted on the info on the M&E, there is a good chance Becky and I will come up in the cage...

Disassemble the controller and carefully clean both the rubber pad and the PC board contacts with rubbing alcohol. Be careful not to demagnetize the black contact thingies. The copper gridwork on the board can be polished up with a clean pencil eraser. If you have little or no soldering experience, and you want to try the bike out with a 2 to 3-hour ride you are welcome to come over and I'll do it for you. I used to be a NASA certified solderer as well as being an electronic technician for over 35 years, other than my eyesight not being what it used to be and the peripheral neuropathy from diabetes, I'm pretty sure I know what I'm doing! I can dig out the controller from my '84 that was working fine back in '09 and we can swap it into yours to test the system out...

Yup, to me a super nice VR means EVERYTHING works properly, nothing is missing, no broken plastic and all the maintenance is current and documented. It should be clean and shiny with little or no corrosion or pitting and no discolored clear coat... Mileage is insignificant unless it is in excess of 200,000 miles.

You're lucky you are not speaking in a high pitched squeaky voice right now if you would have tried putting your feet down to stop...

Getting back to your first post, yes you can install Schrader valves to air things up as that is exactly how the air suspension is operated on the Standard model that does not come with the CLASS system. A word of warning though, especially on the front forks, only use a hand operated pump and never use a compressor to air them up unless you like to replace blown out fork seals!! It has to do with the VOLUME of air delivered, not just the PSI! I even think a bicycle pump might deliver too much volume of air when pumping! I am also leery of using a compressor on the rear shock as well for the same reason!

OK, I dug out my old owner's manual to remind me how the system works. Yes, the controller may be bad, or maybe not! So, when you press either the "FRONT" or the "REAR" buttons, a "zero" shows? Does the display show either Front or Rear on the right side? Also when you press the auto/manual does the display read either MANUAL or AUTO? You could try reseating the multipin connector on the controller, or the connector for the solenoid and pump unit which is located under the trunk under a black plastic cover under the trunk frame. You might want to pull your seat off as well, just 2 bolts hold it on, so you can see the wiring better, and also re-seat the big connector that the rear lights as well as the pump assembly. The fact that the controller even reads a zero is actually a good sign that it may be good, but probably the switches for the controller are bad...

Ahh, my bad, it's the PSI that is painted on, sorry, haven't worked on one in many years! I'm looking for a copy of the owner's manual...

I see you are only a few hours away from me, unfortunately, I am recovering from foot surgery, otherwise, I would have been tempted to take a ride over there and help you out...

OK, I see Don was answering while I was typing too! Ther key has to be on accessory, not "on" position...

OK, it sounds like you are not getting any power to the controller, or the controller itself is dead! Also, are you aware that the controller only gets power when the key is in the accessory position?? The Zero is painted on, so it always appears even with the unit removed and in your hand!! I would start by removing the dashboard panel so that you have access to the wires and with the ignition switch turned to accessory look for 12 volts between the red and black wires. There is a fuse for the class unit if memory serves me it is an inline fuse in a separate holder but I don't remember exactly where it is... Here's a schematic of the bike's wiring diagram from this website, hopefully, it will help you out... http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/83%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale%20TDK%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20C.pdf

You may have to cut/break one mounting ear off to get it to fit. I used a self-tapping bolt and bolted it down on my airbox...

Tou could try a gel pad and a sheepskin, that may lift you up enough. Otherwise, you will have to MacGuyver some kind of extension straps for the seat mounting bars...

OK, the tach is driven by the input to coil 2, specifically coming from the TCI to the coil. So, even if coil 2 went bad it would not effect the tach. Check for corrosion on the connector on the TCI...

If you want to save some work, (but not money) here are some Venture parts! I noticed both left and right fairings in the right color even with aftermarket chrome pieces on them but for what they are asking for them there is too much damage on them! There is another red fairing with damage to it as well but a lot more reasonable price. Just thought I would post the link in case you are looking for other pieces, looks like there is a couple of pretty nice lowers, etc... https://www.ebay.com/b/Yamaha-Venture-Motorcycle-Fairings-Body-Work/35560/bn_1508815?maspect=contextType%3AMOTORCYCLE&MYear=1983