bongobobny

OK, first question, does your Neutral light work?? This is an important question to prove that electricity is getting past the signal fuse. The next thing to look at would be either of the two brake light switches and measure with a voltmeter for 12 volts on the Green/Yellow line with the brakes applied. The G/Y line becomes the yellow line after the brake switches and goes to the CMU. If the switch is passing voltage then your next place to look at will be the CMU but before that find the connector for the tail/brake light assembly. This is a 3 wire connector with a black, blue, and yellow wire coming from the assembly. The other side of the connector has a black, blue and white, and yellow and black wire on it. With the brakes applied look for 12 volts on the yellow wire just to prove that voltage is indeed getting that far, there is a remote possibility that both bulbs have their brake light filaments burnt out...

It's going to be interesting to see what the motivation was behind this incident! In away I am glad the suspect was captured alive...

Hmmm, yes, I am thinking your design does need a little help Don! My first two impressions of the image were a pioneer lady with a squared off chin, and then an overhead view of a toilet with dual flushing handles! Sorry, Boss, don't mean to insult you or your abilities, just offering my perspective...

It's pre-op meetings with the anesthesiologist, etc. for upcoming toe surgery on July 3rd. My toe bone is dislocated and rubbing the bottom of my foot which caused a foot ulcer last summer. The toe has been dislocated for many years now caused by stepping on a roofing nail and not knowing it until I took my shoe off hours later! Anyway, they are going to do a little trimming of the bone as an outpatient procedure, and I will be pretty much immobile for a few weeks! So, if anybody is in the Western New York area in July, stop on by and keep me company...

I usually use a scribe or a small flat bit screwdriver to force them back into the holes and a pair of pliers to pull them the rest of the way through...

Hmmm, the price of the slaves has gone up a little, they used to be around $60 - $65 a while ago. Your best bet is to replace, not rebuild them as rebuilt ones often do not last long or leak from day one. It depends on how well you hone the cylinder prior to replacing the rubbers. If you have to hone a lot off to eliminate the pitting and corrosion it will probably leak. To me, the price you pay for a new one is worth it in the long run, and we are not talking a major capital investment even at $85 anyways, especially over a potentially critical part...

Yup!! You have to squeeze the two tangs together and push them out from the back...

Ummm, that depends Dan. I guess you could do it in 10 minutes if you can get to the connector easily, or an hour or so if you take the upper fairings off, etc to make sure you have plenty of room to access it!

Yup, our yard work is now caught up to about May 15th I believe, and the battery for the scoot is still on the bench...

I, unfortunately, have a DR. appointment on the 23rd or otherwise, I would have met up with you there Chuck...

Yup Dan, yours sounds like a stuck starter switch! Try vigorously flicking it a few times and see if it fixes itself. Otherwise, unplug it and see if your problem goes away. They are not that difficult to disassemble and fix...

gaj I had the same thing happen to me, but he states he disconnected the ignition which to me points more to welded main contacts on the starter solenoid. If the main contacts were shorted there would be a direct connection from the battery to the starter motor regardless if the ignition was on or off...

From what I remember, there is supposed to be some spacers behind the screws, but keep in mind I'm old and haven't done a thing cosmetically with my 1st gen since '09...

Hey, uhh, speaking of old, you younger ones do realize that if it weren't for some of us more seasoned ones here, you wouldn't have dirt because we were around to invent it?!!?

Are you done yet??

Yup, around 40 give or take...

Hope that fixes you up Vid! A word to the wise with male/female connectors like that, the female should always carry the source voltage and the male always the load so if they do come unplugged, it is less likely for the 12 volts to get shorted to ground...

Another -1 for the Corbin on the 1st gen, it makes you feel like you are sliding forward all the time, and seemingly hard as a rock...

Let me sum up why Yamaha did what they did, and let's all recite the secret mantra together, CHEAPER, BETTER, FASTER ​(CHOOSE ONE).

To me, a rare leaf would be Toronto winning the Stanley Cup...

Gee, missed it, we went to a ZZ Top concert...

Mildly disappointed, I give it a B-!!! Only 33 MPG?!!? I will give it an A+ for technology and creature comforts, especially the Twin audio system!

4 hours to go... https://www.yamahamotorsports.com/transcontinental-touring

Well, as many as they want!!

As a matter of fact, I sent a PM to each and every member to let them know of the date change AND that they needed to re-sign up on the calendar... I was looking at the posting by Mama Yamaha about the new cruiser and the entries of why people own a Star and found an RSV owner in the Buffalo area that is not a member here, wish there was a way to get ahold of him and let him know about this site, etc. Unfortunately, even in this day and age, there are still people that have nothing to do with a computer...