bongobobny

If anybody is looking to replace their shield, IMHO this is the best one to use!!!

It's been around since before any of us were born! I remember it as a kid growing up in the 50's and 60's. It s better known as an upper cylinder lubricant but has many uses. Here's the official website... http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/index.php/site/about/

One of the best ways to clean up the insides of a tank prior to coating is to take a couple of pounds of galvanized roofing nails and load them onto the tank after duct taping off all of the openings except the main one, then duct tape that opening as well, then shake, rattle and roll the tank until you are exhausted then do it some more!! It's a good idea to have some friends over for a tank shake party. When you do it long enough you will find the interior of the tank looks shiny new when you empty the tank. Then comes time to coat the tank, I like Red Kote but Cream is a good product as well...

As far as matching, you can match brand and model if you like but that is not necessary. What you DO want to match is Radial with Radial or bias ply with bias ply. Not a good idea to mismatch them...

...and that place is the best place to install a "Y" connector so you can plug in your GPS or MP3 or satellite receiver, etc into the AUX circuit!!

Don just gave you some good advice! The very first thing I would do is add a half can to a full can of Seafoam to a full tank of gas and drive it like you stole it to clean out the carburetors and upper cylinders of deposits. The second thing I would do is indeed replace your spark plugs as our bikes are very hard on plugs and should either be replaced every year or two depending on how many miles you put on or use iridium plugs and get more mileage out of a set. Use NGK plugs, either the regular or iridium as they seem to work best on our engine. I would say a set of regular plugs is probably good for around 10,000 miles at best. The third thing I would do would be to do a good carb sync! The next thing I will ask is what grade gas are you using?? If you are using premium gas I suggest you stop that practice immediately as higher octane gas does not work any better, and if anything is worse than plain old 87 octane fuel for engine performance as the higher octane fuel burns slower. As Don mentioned, accelerating in OD under 65 to 70 mph lugs the engine. You are better served to keep the engine operating in the 3500 to 5000rpm range as that is the optimum operating range for best performance and fuel economy!

Flying Fool, for some odd reason the clutches in the 2nd generation don't seem to hold up as well as the first generation clutch did, and towing a lot or as in my case converting to a trike seems to kill them faster. Have you tried the PCW heavy duty clutch spring or stacking two clutch springs yet?? Earl, Skydoc_17 sells the PCW springs. I do agree with the Barnett setup as a better fix albeit more expensive! Also, did you replace the half area clutch disc with the optional Yamaha heavy duty full-size disc the last time??

Is it white smoke (possible moisture in the mix) or bluish smoke (oil)??

HELL No!!! I would trust it to get the bike into your garage where you can take it off...

Locate the gear selector switch on the lower side of the motor, I bet you the contacts need cleaning, or it is misaligned...

Watch Harley pull a fast one and come out with a liquid cooled shaft drive 4 cylinders touring bike and, maybe call it the Royal Venture...

I thought the low fuel light was amber, not red...

You can put it in any gear you feel like before starting, it does not matter...

Pickup coils rarely go bad, but it is not totally unheard of! Glad you are up and running again!!!

Yup, that's pretty much how it goes! It starts to drop out under heavy acceleration and just keeps getting worse...

Hey, I'm recovering from toe surgery, I'm supposed to keep off my feet as much as possible...

Thought I would resurrect this thread and post pictures of what Becky ended up with!! It's a 2017 Nissan Altima SL fully loaded and we added some aftermarket bling as well! The cool thing is that we got Zero APR just like her old one that we still owed a year on, and the monthly payments went DOWN almost $29 a month!!

Yup, screwdriver blade through the slot, that's how I've always done it...

Nothing wrong with being prepared! That being said, a well-maintained Venture just doesn't break down that often! Heck, I used to, and still do, carry tools including SAE to help out other bikers that may break down...

No, the broken frame issue is only with the '83. What happens are they rust from the inside out only at the area of the rear shock mount. They redesigned the shock mount in '84 and beefed it up. One of the other issues is the oil cooling of the stator. There was a kit made which replaces the center bolt with one that had a hole and a pin to spray oil over the stator better to cool it more. There were a couple of other minor '83 only issues as well but I can't remember them at the moment. You already know about the 2nd gear issue that was corrected mid '85 production. Although IMHO the 1200 engine was a better engine than the 1300, the MK2 is a superior bike, mainly due to the improved braking system. The MK1 system is anemic at best! The MK2 stops a lot better, but even then there are a few improvements you can do with them that you can't do with the MK1 without changing the front fork lowers and changing the rotors, and converting the swingarm to an MK2 and replacing the rear caliper and caliper mounting bracket. Another sorely needed improvement with the MK2 was the headlight. You can improve the MK1 headlight greatly by just painting the rubber bezel WHITE and put in a Silverstar bulb. There are other minor differences with the MK2 but brakes and headlights are the major biggies along with the Electric Antidive which replaced the hydraulic ones which robbed from the front brakes which are inadequate, to begin with... But hey, even with their issues the '83 was far superior as a touring bike than anything else out there at the time and still are great motorcycles!!!

Cell phone and membership in AAA+ RV AND the motorcyclist attachment...

OK, if you speak schematics, the cruise control circuit can be found in the upper right-hand area. Start looking for proper grounds, voltages, and continuity with the "on" circuit. The first thing I would check is the vacuum line for the solenoid... http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/83%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale%20TDK%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20C.pdf

Jeff, it's an MK1, no blue light or amber light!!!

NOPE!!! Stay away from the '83 as there are too many problems with them! You either want a late production '85 or an MK2...

Hmmm, if you are selling it to Freebird, then ship it to one of the Southern Ontario members, and they will bring it to the Western New York North East Regional Rally, and that will force Don to come back to the Rally again this year...