bongobobny

I'm just wondering, will that E6000 be flexible enough so that the diaphragm still correctly responds as it should, or will it make it too stiff or have a poor response to the normal pressures they see...

Pucster, you forgot one of the most important fixes for whine coming from the rear!!! Next time leave her home!!!

First Gen is '83 to '93. They are separated by the MK1 which is the 1200cc '83 to '85, and the MK2 which is the 1300cc made from '86 to '93. The 2nd Gen Venture is the Harley wanna be made from 1999 to 2013. As mentioned, the carbs sync the same way, the difference being where the screws are located...

When was the last time you had the cooling system flushed?? Do you use a product called "Wetter Water?" Yes, it may be normal, but there are things to do to minimize the effects...

If memory serves me, it is one of the relays mounted on the center fairing frame above the headlight...

You may be coming up with the dreaded ignition switch failure that 2nd Gens are known for! Even to service the contacts you have to grind off the heads of the "safety" mounting bolts, and the bolts are loctited in as well! If you do end up needing a new battery, spring the extra money for an AGM battery, they haver more reserve power...

You will be better served with an aftermarket unit as there ain't no new factory ones to be found!! Ignitech makes a programmable one that works very well for many of us. There is also another manufacturer that makes one that has its own built in response curve for spark advance when accelerating. Keep in mind that the '83 TCI is entirely different from the '84 thru '89 units as far as the vacuum advance, they are 180 degrees out of phase from the other years due to where they take the vacuum information from for the boost sensor. You can, however, use an '84 through '89 if you replumb the vacuum to the boost sensor from the carbs to manifold vacuum, which is in exact opposites from each other, the reason why the advance is 180 degrees out of phase with the following years... Buying a used unit off of eBay is a crap shoot as even though they may work, it doers not mean they work 100% right! Some of them can cause a misfire at higher rpms...

One would think so! Wouldn't be the first time one of those old analog meters went south. There is a way to calibrate those old movements but unfortunately, you have to know what you are doing AND have a delicate touch! Waaaaay back in the early 70's I used to calibrate analog meters, there are three sliding weights that have to be adjusted so that the meter reads the same vertical, on each side, and upside down, and it is soooo easy to accidentally nick the winding and turn the entire movement into junk!

Yes, you need longer hydraulic lines and throttle cables. Here's a link to Flanders Catalog, you will find RSV's specs on page 42... http://www.sideroadcycles.com/HandlebarCatalog1-28-2011.pdf Here are JP Cycle's offerings... http://www.jpcycles.com/2010-yamaha-royal-star-venture-s-xvz1300tfs/handlebars/flanders And offerings from Phat Performance... http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/Handlebars_Risers_s/586700.htm And Dennis Kirk... https://www.denniskirk.com/handlebars-and-controls/2009-yamaha-xvz1300tfs-royal-star-venture-s.mmy/1.pg If you search more, you may find more stuff!! With the Flanders catalog, you may find the exact rise and pullback you are looking for. I sort of remember having to drill a hole in my Flanders bar for a locking pin for one of the controllers or something, no big deal. Sorry, it's been a while since I converted. The main reason most of us switch is that of shoulder or back pain. If you just go with the 1 1/2" Barons risers you may get away without changing throttle cables or hydraulic lines. The only issue without changing is with the handlebars turned hard over in one direction with the bike running the bike will rev up, but this would never come into effect while actually driving your bike! You can reroute the cables or give them a good yank when remounting the throttle assembly...

My thoughts are that would be awfully long bolts to have to deal with!! I use the 1 1/2' Barons risers with the Flanders bars and find the setup to be very comfortable...

Some M6, a lot of M8, and a few M10's of various lengths...

OK, I kind of doubt your issue is with the Ignitor unit seeing as the bike does run. Based on the symptoms you are listing, the next thing to look at is a rather expensive unit called the Starting Circuit Cut-Off Relay Assembly and it is located in the same area as the fuel pump and gas filter area, and is mounted via a rubber strap on a metal hanger, and has been known to fall off its mount and lay on the engine and melt the plastic housing! It tends to give some strange symptoms a little different from yours, but it is something to look at! If you take off the two false battery covers and the plastic front cover under the seat and pull out your overflow canister for the cooling system and a few other things you may be able to finally see it! The unit itself could be defective from one or more of the internal diodes being bad, but that is not a common failure. When you checked the side stand switch for continuity did you see as close to zero ohms on the lowest scale as possible?? Even a small resistance like 4 ohms can mean the circuit will not function properly and give you the symptom where as soon as you let the clutch out with the bike in gear even though the kickstand is physically up, it will kill the ignition because it sees that low resistance as an open circuit. This is a fairly common failure with many Yamaha systems. What you can do as a troubleshooting technique is to directly short out the switch but be warned that this WILL enable you to start the bike in gear with the clutch engaged from what I remember!!!

Sooo, rest up so you will be fresh for the WNY Rally!!

What a few people have done is ditch the cassette player (you have to jumper a couple of wires on the plug to keep the audio system working) and use the big cavity as a catch-all for stuff. You just have to MacGuyver some sort of cover...

Only 7K miles on a '08?? My God, that bike needs riding!! My theory was based on the fact that you have to crack the throttle which in essence is getting more air volume in to compensate for something restricting the air input but it was just a thought. Maybe something is restricting the air getting to the filter? A second thought is to check the fuse for your carb heaters. I'm hoping you don't have to pull the carbs apart and clean them due to a residue in them from storage. Have you thought of trying a can of seafoam in your tank followed by a session of "Drive it like ya stole it?"

My first guess is the kickstand switch being defective...

Hmmmm, my first guess will be air filters...

There ya go lowrider!! Jim is a great guy to know!! If you are off on Wednesday plan on coming over! My number is in my profile!

You noticed!!

The average Venture rider gets around 40 MPG. The 4 cylinder's power band does not kick in until around 3500 to 4000 RPM's and keeps going up to 6000 or more!! You will get lower mileage by NOT using the higher rpm power band than by driving it like a Harley... Red line is waaaay up there!! There are other reasons for poor MPG however, and yes, carbs that are not properly sync'ed will do it as well as spark plugs, wires, valve clearance, float bowl adjustment, etc. etc. Top end in 3rd gear is around 95 MPH...

Justin Bieber came from Canada too...

I'm thinking the cager got his just rewards!! Sorry, I can't think of any sane rider just kicking a door on a cage just for the hell of it...

You're welcome and think nothing of it, it's what we do around here!!

Yes, I was going to suggest a motion sensing light fixture, and screw in one of those adapters that adds an electrical outlet that screws into the light socket and also allows the light bulb to be screwed in. Plug in a really loud buzzer into the electrical outlet so if anybody enters the garage both the light will come on, and you will have an audible sound that will scare the hell out of any intruder, human or otherwise!! Notice, I am not suggesting you use the buzzer sound as a trigger for you to arm yourself and defend your property, that would be strictly your own initiative...

On the plug, you should see at least one or possibly two black wires. Using an ohmmeter, check for zero ohms to the chassis. To answer your question about grounds on the bike, there are several coming out of the main harness, black wires with eye loop connectors, and are hidden...