bongobobny

Yea, Pucster, stop in the WNY area on your way home, we'll buy you a GOOD hot dog or three!!!

As far as the 4 position "Dampening" switch, it is all up to personal comfort level. A setting of 1 is the mushiest, and a setting of 4 is the firmest from what I remember. That control is all about the "response time" of the rear shock, not the shock air pressure control. There is only a slight and almost undetectable difference in the settings with the same shock air pressure and is entirely up to your own riding style and preferences. I kept mine at a 2. Rear air pressure is going to do two things, make the rear shock either sluggish with low pressure or really stiff with a lot of pressure I recommend at least 40 lbs but you may be happier closer to 60 lbs. I ran my fronts around 12 lbs, and the front pressure will also make the bike taller with increased pressure. Do not exceed 17 lbs as you will most likely blow out a fork seal!! Once again it is all up to your personal riding style and preferences. Most important, as already pointed out, used only a hand pump for adjusting your pressures, it is all about the volume, not the pressure when pumping them up.You want to use a small hand pump so you do not deliver a huge volume of air at once into the relatively small area that actually gets air...

Hehehehehehehehehehehe!!! Welcome to old-timer's disease, Chuck!!

OK, Jack, I was born in 1947... My dad made up this aluminum wedge thingy with a wax paper reed that someone would whistle, and you could hear it about a 1/4 mile away or so...

I almost hate to say it, but a compression test may be in order. There could also be a possibility that your intake valve is not opening enough, but I am thinking in the vein that Snyper is, misadjusted or malfunctioning carburetor. Yes, there is also a possibility that your spark is not strong enough. With a spark gap tester, you should be able to pull a spark slightly longer than 0.100". Your plug should be gapped around 0.035" give or take a little...

Actually, Jack it is one of the more prestigious areas to live in around Buffalo, it's where bank presidents, Buffalo Bills players, upper management, etc settle into. There are a lot of really nice homes there, with a lot of subdivisions! It's not the farmlands and fields you would remember from the 50's and 60's...

Once you have eliminated plugs and wires and are positive there is no spark to the number 4 plug (also look inside the cap of the coil for the dreaded green crud) you can always switch the wiring plugs from the primary of two of the coils AND the corresponding plug wires and see if the issue stays with the same cylinder or moves to the other cylinder...

I'm not sure on this, but I think Yamaha may put some kind of thread locker on the screws for the lenses as I have noticed the screws seem to come out feeling like they were really torqued down! I did loose a front turn signal lens once after replacing the bulb, but both screws were missing as well so they must have vibrated out...

Yup, they are big tall bikes, and when they want to take a nap there is no stopping them! Many of us have similar tales to tell and I'm no exception! A word of warning, when coming out of a parking lot onto the main highway, do NOT stop at the edge of the road where there is a drainage dip and try to put your feet down, it's a loooong way down for your feet to finally come in contact with the ground! On a side note, the wife rode the bike down sideways in perfect riding position, and it was actually comical to see the bike on its side with her still in proper position!!

Yes, Praise God she is OK! As far as cars being replaceable, I'm thinking her's will be declared a total loss and I have already found a nice brand new red one to replace her beloved Altima, and Nissan is offering Zero APR financing and the payments will be pretty much the same as what we are currently paying...

Awesome story Snype! We all should make it a point to enjoy life to the fullest and get out and enjoy the world as much as possible! To quote an old song, these ARE the good old days...

We find out Monday!! 2 1/2 days to go...

Why not??

Yup, Earl, I'm thankful and grateful for those side curtain airbags!!

Me too, Don, me too...

Yup, that "Brown" signal line goes to a whole bunch of places!! Could be some kind of intermittent short on your brake light switch, the horn circuit, dash lights etc, etc, etc!!!

If you pull the fuel sender unit, you have a bigger hole to go fishing...

Becky had a little oops turning into our place this afternoon, she didn't quite see the big gray pickup truck coming from the opposite direction. That white looking thing on the passenger side of the pickup's bumper is Becky's rear passenger door skin... She went to the hospital for a checkup, nothing wrong other than classic seat belt bruising, she is home and is fine other than a little stiff and sore...

Yup, the screws were torqued on just a little too tight...

...or the controller! Do you see any live voltage on the connector going to the controller? Unfortunately, we don't have active schematics of the actual system other than block diagrams so no idea whar the individual lines are doing other than supplying logic info...

OK second stupid (seemingly) question, is your speedometer and odometer lighting up??? I'm looking at the R/G line... http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09%20Yamaha%20Royal%20Star%20Venture%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20B.pdf With the ignition on, you should see 12 volts on both the R/G line and the Br/W line at the connector for the audio unit...

Yup, well, three Dremel tool stones later, the heads are ground off and the studs removed! Found out why the slot and screwdriver trick didn't work, those bolts are blue Loctite'd in!! Yes, the bolts are M8/1.25 Allen head bolts, the exact same bolts used to hold the rotors on, which I happened to have a few spares of! That's how those safety bolts work, they are Allen head screws that when installed the heads are filled in with some kind of metal filler. So now the new switch assembly is installed and I will rebuild my old one to use as a spare. The new one was rekeyed by a locksmith last fall when my original switch started acting up and I bought a new switch assembly! Now I have to reassemble the bike and install my battery and get the bike fired up for the spring so I can get some riding in before July. I am having toe surgery July 3rd so I will be kind of disabled for pretty much all of July...

Hmmm, one or two faces I haven't seen as of yet...

Nope, they are some kind of tamper proof bolts. If you look at the first picture in this thread, you can see those "safety" bolts. I'm getting the impression drilling is the only option. I'm waiting for tomorrow to go over to Pioneer Motorsports and ask my Cousin who is the Service Manager there how they do it... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?512-Emergency-Ignition-Switch-Repair

OK, this is going to sound stupid, but have you turned the audio system on after replacing the battery??? To turn the audio system on, with the key in either accessory or run position, press the "audio" button for less than 1 second to turn on, and to turn the system off you press and hold the audio button for more than one second...