bongobobny

Sooo, you gonna bring it over to the WNY Rally??

Also, if you have a wood burning pencil, you could try melting the plastic together in a spot or two, kind of like tack welding the pieces together...

That area right there, where the rear view mirror mounts, is probably one of the most stressed areas of the fairing, and the place most likely to crack especially when dropped! Speaking of which, by the looks of the edge it looks like it was dropped at least once or twice... I think at one time I actually molded in a couple of washers right into the plastic where the holes for the mirror screws go. As far as that separated crack, try making a vee as I suggested earlier and try using some really strong duct tape on the outside to hold the areas into place...

Ran across this on FB. My antivirus says the site is OK but with any FB post, it's filled with pop-up ads... http://www.opposingviews.com/i/society/venus-williams-gets-court-order-against-family-man-shes-accused-being-responsible-death?fb=ov

Yup, like most of us geriatrics around here, when I grew up there were more standards than automatics! I learned standard on a '55 Plymouth as well as a few other cars of the era...

Yes, I did read the article and agree with you on the circumstances, and common sense (I know, we are not supposed to use those two words together anymore) would dictate what to do in this case, but you also have to take into consideration the money factor! Actually working for a living is passe' these days and people would much rather sue people for money instead! Becky is being sued for her recent error in judgment, and there is a question as to whether or not the guy in the pickup may have been speeding even though Becky turned in front of the two vehicles. The other vehicle was able to come to a complete stop without hitting her in spite of the fact that the truck was in the left lane behind the other vehicle that was in the right lane...

Well, if he is absolutely certain that the pickup coil is open then, of course, that could be the cause! Without timing signals from the pickup coil, the ignitor never knows when to generate a spark so it doesn't!! Just in case your son needs it, here's a link to the wiring diagram from this site! http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09%20Yamaha%20Royal%20Star%20Venture%20Simplified%20Circuit%20Diagram%20Rev%20B.pdf

Great find! For around the same amount of money, you could buy a used R1/R6 caliper and a rebuild kit for them and have better brakes though...

Where there are cracks, take a Dremel tool and make a vee cut on the back side and fill with the 2 part ABS epoxy. The channel you make gives you more surface area to form a bond than if you just try to join with glue at the crack...

Here is New York State, you may enter an intersection on a Yellow, but you must be clear of the intersection before it turns Red! If you are still in the intersection when it turns red you are in violation of the V&T laws and can and will be issued a ticket!

Not if you are using the original wires to trigger the relay... Most of us that switch to air horns use the stock horn wires to switch the ground side of the relay primary.

I've heard some women can fly a broom, does that count as a stick??

If you want a brand new 2 wire brake switch to trigger the relay, send me your addy in a PM and I'll mail it to you, I have no use for it myself... That way you can use just the front brake and the cruise will still shut off and your brake light will work with the front brake as well! I didn't look to make sure, but I think Jeff's system is using the brake lights to trigger the relay. I'll check... No, Jeff is assuming you still have a functional front switch, and I am assuming that by your statement that the switch disintegrated in your hand you do not have a front switch. You also stated your brake lights were not working with the front brakes, most likely due to the switch being bad completely. So my offer stands, one brand new Standard (not cruise control) front brake switch yours for the asking!

OK, the thing to know about the 4 wire switch is one set of contacts is closed while the other is open...

Actually what you may want is a 2 part ABS Epoxy made by several manufacturers that allow you to actually fabricate plastic when there are pieces missing! Many times with plastic repair on fairings, etc, tabs are broken off or a chunk is missing. The 2 part epoxy allows you to actually fabricate the missing parts and is sandable and paintable! One source is Auto Zone but just about any hardware store or department store may have it!

Click... VROOOOOMM!!

Every time you pull a plug wire from the coil, you need to trim about a quarter of an inch from the wire to ensure a good connection from the coil to the wire...

Normally Ebay is our friend but I just checked for you and there are no 4 wire units listed! Also, checking a few OEM parts listings seem to yield nothing available either! So, I guess you will just have to check out some motorcycle boneyard places like Pinwall in Ohio, etc. The switches for the MK2 should work but there is a little black module attached to the harness that is a noise suppressor for the brake light circuit which also includes the electric anti-dive which is the real source of the noise. I used to have a spare or two but I must have already given them away. You might want to check with Earl, Skydoc_17 as he does sell some used parts and he might have one on a parts bike, or maybe someone else has one laying around. Good luck!

Here's a link to the MK1 Royale schematic. You will find the brake switch on the top about in the middle... http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/83%20Yamaha%20Venture%20Royale%20TDK%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20C.pdf

There's your problem, and I'll bet it is not properly wired as well making your brake lights not work...

For the cruise control option, the brake switch should have 4 wires. I'll almost betcha dollars to donuts you're going to find the switch is not properly mounted like a broken tab that locks it into place...

If your clutch slave cylinder is leaking, which from what you described with the low fluid I bet it is, then you will be better served replacing the slave rather than trying to rebuild it!! The replacement units are not that expensive, and through the experience of many here rebuilding does not work out very good and they leak again after a short while...

What cruise line are you on? We took the inner passageway Alaskan cruise in 2006 with Holland America on the Vooldendam and loved the cruise!!

OK, all good questions, beer or no beer! As far as fuel economy, yes float level adjustments can affect fuel economy, but driving habits can also affect it as well! If you are used to a big V-Twin, chances are you are not revving the engine high enough! These 4 cylinder engines love their RPM's and need to be kept in the 3500 to 6500 RPM range for better fuel economy due to that is where the power band is! You should never be in 5th at any speed below around 55 to 60 MPH! These carbs are very complex and several things can go wrong and yet the bike will still run! There is a very good DVD out there concerning the proper way to rebuild and set up the carbs. It is geared towards the VMax carbs but is just as appropriate for the Venture carbs as well! Here's a link... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?119186-Bought-Carb-Rebuild-Video-by-Damon-Ferraiuolo&p=1004501#post1004501 As far as the vacuum advance or boost sensor as Yamaha calls it, with no vacuum you should see around 2.5 volts with no vacuum, and it should vary from 0 volts to 5 volts depending on whether a positive or negative pressure is applied. See the Service Manual available for free on this site. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?3384-First-Gen-Service-Manuals Also, make sure your Ignition Module is the proper one for the '83 model as that module is specific for only that year. If the P.O. switched modules to a later year, the vacuum advance will be 180 degrees out of phase as with the 83 they used carb vacuum, and the rest uses manifold vacuum. Speaking of vacuum, if you have any leaks that will cause your mileage to go south. The last thing to mention is the diaphragms on the carburetors. Any pinholes at all can and will affect mileage. Watch your plungers for doing the proper "dance" when revving up the engine...

Soooo, I take it you needed a change of underwear when you got home???