bongobobny

Me Likey!!

Ed, the calipers are NOT Honda CRX, just the spindles!! The rotors are custom made for Hannigan and the Calipers are Bembro the same calipers as used on the Ducatti Monster, and are mounted to the stock CRX spindles with special made brackets! Brake pads for the CRX, which by the way include 3 separate styles, will not fit... Forgot to mention with my conversion from the stock Hannigan setup I also had to replace the rotors to CRX but used aftermarket EBC,s that are slotted and cross drilled. I was one of the victims of their "wrong brake pad/rotor combinations" that burned out the pads and scored the rotors within about 500 miles or less!! Even though they replaced my rotors for free, and I found my replacement pads at our local KLM/Ducatti dealer I still was not pleased at all with the performance so I took matters in my own hands! A year or so later Hannigan came up with their own slotted rotors and pad combination that they now use, which most owners are happy with...

Yup!! Still addicted after all these years...

...is it bigger than Alaska???

YUP!! Step 1, Sync Carbs!! Part of me wants to say "Don't trust the dealer to do it right!!" Find someone somewhat close by who knows what they are doing sync them, or learn to do it yourself, it is not that hard, it just requires an around $100 tool to do it...

Hey Scott, are you coming to the WNY N.E. regional Rally in Chaffee this August??

And shipping to Bongo is???

Yup! Ducatti "Monster" etc calipers and pads... I didn't like the lack of stopping power so I switched to Honda CRX calipers and powered them with a trimmed down Wilwood 13/16 Master cylinder adapted to a modified RSV brake pedal assembly via a special plate I fabricated... Thje 13/16 seemed to work best, the 3/4 made for just a little too sensitive pedal, and the 1 inch had no travel and you had to push REALLY hard on the pedal to stop...

Yup!! There is a fairly long list of Metzler victims here on the site...

New Venture?? Don't hold your breath...

Yup!! All personal taste!! Unfortunately, unless you have a friend with an identical bike and shorter windscreen, the only way you are going to find out how you feel about it is to buy a shortie and decide for yourself...

Yup!! I remember Denden but don't think i ever met him/them in person but then again i can't remember everybody either...

Only 40K?? That ain't even broken in yet!! Better get on that thing and ride it a long while...

WOO HOO!!!!! Nice steal!!!

Yes! Do NOT drive these fine machines like a Harley! They operate better and are happier with higher RPM's! 1st gear you should take up to around 20 to 25 mph, 2nd gear up to around 40, etc. Don't even THINK of using 5th gear at any speeds under 60 mph, the OD gear is useless at slower speeds! To give you an idea of just how fast you can really go with these machines, 3rd gear is suppose to be able to top out around 90 mph +!! I normally shift out of 1st at around 20, out of 2nd around 40, out of 3rd around 50, and into 5th at around 60... As was mentioned, you can NOT over rev these engines, they have a built in rev limiter that is VERY obvious when you hit it!! It almost feels like you broke the engine sort of, it misfires, but you do not do any damage at all! The max RPM's for the engine are beyond the rev limiter. Welcome to the site Richard!

What Puc said!!

Yah! The ONLY downside of leaving it there is the additional weight of the second TCI. Betcha you loose 0.00000000000000000058326% hp...

With the other (physical) address it stands a chance of making it here anyway, but I think I caught it in time... Sent a separate PM to wrnchjox as well.

Good idea Craig!! I have a handful of white/clear in my utility container in my trunk but an extra supply would be appreciated...

He probably will want it sent here Alan, that way no delay in customs, and a whole lot cheaper shipping. I can PM you my address if that is what Ben wants...

COOL!! I will bring metric allen wrenches and 6mm wrenches to split the fairing! Do you have passing lights on yours Leo?? If so we will also have to loosen them to get the fairing apart...

There is no adjustment for the hydraulic clutch! Did you overfill the reservoir? It should only be filled about halfway up, with the master level, about 1/2 way up the site glass. I am assuming you properly bled the system to get all the bad stuff out of the slave and lines...

Unfortunately no real easy way to get to the TCI,ANOTHER great reason to relocate it to the top of the airbox! There is enough free play in the wiring harness to get the TCI up there, but you will find you will most likely have to cut one of the mounting ears off to get the fake tank cover back on. You need to remove both upper fairings, and it is a good idea to remove the lowers as well to prevent accidentally breaking one or both. The battery and battery box have to come out. It helps, although not absolutely necessary, to remove the air box. Have fun with the breather hose, a set of VERY long needlenose pliers helps with this. Next, the coil pack comes out. Actually, you may not have to take the coil packs out if you can get to the two electrical connectors for the TCI at this point. You could just plug in your "new" TCI and hopefully you paid good money for a good one and not another troublesome one. Sometimes TCI's will start the bike ok but at higher RPM's develop a stumble or start to break up. Anyway, if the new one is good, then your problem is solved, put the TCI on the airbox top and reassemble the bike!! BTW, if at all possible do not try to run the bike with the airbox disconnected, they run like crap without it!! Your existing problem sure sounds as if it is moisture related... As far as what KSrider is talking about, when the sidestand switch goes south, the usual symptom is the engine dies totally as soon as you put the bike in gear and let the clutch out. What you want to do to check is like he suggested, jumper all three wires to the switch together but this comes with this VERY IMPORTANT WARNING!!!!! When you jumper the wires, your bike is now capable of starting IN GEAR with the CLUTCH OUT!! Also you are now capable of driving WITH THE KICKSTAND DOWN, a very dangerous thing to do!! Soo, just do the jumpering thing only to find out if the switch is the problem source!!

Uhhh, no. I don't think you are overthinking it. There may be trapped moisture in TCI unit, or corrosion on the connectors, or corrosion on the other set of connectors halfway between the TCI and the coil pack, but then again there could be other issues... Now, just to confirm the likelihood of it being from the TCI, when it is running crappy is the Tach completely dead, reading zero, but when it is running right it reads correctly?? If so then it is definitely TCI related as the tach is driven by the number 2 coil command from the TCI. If the tach is reading sort of normal when it is running bad, the issue may or may not be the TCI or connectors...

Yah! Jay is right, a 3 footer! I was sort of sleeping at midnight! Anything 3 foot or more, the excess will be stored inside the fairing...