bongobobny

Yah!! It's all going to be up to PERSONAL preferences!! With the given choice, the way it is worded you ALREADY have a helmet, so I personally would rather SEE the danger than not see and use the improved safety gear... Too many variables!!!

A lot depends on the overall condition of the chrome! is there any pitting (probably some), is the chrome peeling, do the lights work, etc. Overall I would say the ebay prices will range from $50 to $100 for the pair, give or take. Now which chrome front fender piece are you talking about, the one that goes on the rear of the fender?? they should be worth around $10 or so...

Probably not damage the connectors, the problem dielectric grease is an INSULATOR and if you get too much on the actual metal connections it will never electrically make contact. The whole idea of the grease is to keep moisture from getting inside where the actual electrical contacts are. You want to put a small bead where the two plastic connectors come together...

OH!! OK, no, there is just a locating pin on the cover that will make it seem like there is still something holding it, that and the magnetic attraction from the rotor and stator!! May I ask why you are removing the cover?? Checking for the presence of the stator oiling kit, or you are certain your stator is bad??

Hmmmm, been a while, but from what I remember you loosen the locking pinch bolt on the knurled coupling and slide it off the shaft. Just remember exactly how it is oriented before you remove it, you CAN put it on upside down very easily and it reverses how the shifter works!! Turns it into one down, four up going up in gears, etc...

There ya go people, now there is no excuse! If you are reading this thread, it don't get no easier than that!!! Any of us that have planned any event KNOWS the most frustrating part is getting people to sign up in a timely manner!! We NEED a head count in advance to schedule meals, etc! That reminds me, have any of you also considered going to the Western NY N.E. Regional Rally but haven't signed up yet?? I'm not going to post a link to it on the calendar 'cause this is Don's thread on MD but it is a "Hint Hint."

It's the easiest/cheapest. The other alternative is to go with the Barnett upgrade but it is more expensive to do, but it may be better than the PCW...

Not sure about RSTD issues, but I CAN relate to extra connections to the battery!! I just went with a little longer 6mm bolt...

Hey Don, edit your post and put a link to the calendar to make it easier for people...

Yup! There was/is a 4 pin connector that the brake light switch plugs into that also connects the sensor if memory serves me right, but then again I've forgotten a lot of stuff lately... Haven't worked on my 1st gen in years!

Mr. Alex, you type faster than me...

It's inside the master cylinder reservoir! It's a coil core with a plastic float that has a magnet on it surrounding the coil...

Sure would!!

Yup!! The legalization of criminals...

Back in '07 we were riding the BRP on our way to Asheville. The lead bike, Mother on this site was making a sweeping turn and as he rounded the turn there was a big old bear wandering down the highway! He missed by about an inch and a half! I was right behind him! I was afraid that I might have to throttle up and ram the bear if Scott would have hit him and made the bear mad...

YAH!! I agree!! Your technical expertise and knowledge will be much appreciated and needed there!! Besides, it is one heck of a good time...

Nope!! That's a new one on me too!! I know about CAREFULLY pulling plug wires one at a time to find the dead cylinder, but not about cleaning a fouled plug in that manner! Of course I certainly don't know all there is to know, so who knows?!!? It's just as easy to pull the plug and clean it once you find the bad one IMHO, or for that matter change out all the plugs because if one went bad, the others are soon to follow! I certainly understand the fuzzy grey color!! Waaaaay back in the early 60's when I was taking Electronics in High School, we learned tube theory first and then a short introductory to the transistor, and we were told it was really a Bell experimental project and they would never replace tubes!! How times have changed!! Even IC's have evolved to the point where you just treat them like "black boxes" where you put something in and you get something else out! I wonder if they even teach how to figure out the gain of an op amp or how to make them oscillate, etc... In a way I'm glad my eyes started to go in my 40's and I switched careers from Electronics to hydraulics! It was an easy transition and I didn't have to stare at little circuit boards chasing invisible electrons thru a rat's maze only to loose track of them as they traveled thru a piece of carbon or something else. Besides, I found it interesting and somewhat exciting working on Aircraft hardware!

Jack, I run Chrome, and have for a few years now. Didn't notice a single thing different with how it runs, etc. when I switched to 10. BTW HAPPY BIRTHDAY Condor!!!!!

Now I remember who WAS making them for a while, Bob Myers! Not sure if he is still making them still. Or, you could ask Snaggletooth who make his, if Mike is still active on the site. Haven't heard from him in quite a while...

Nice Wil!! I was going to tell Jeff it goes back together exactly the way he thinks it is supposed to! You are 100% correct about how to "Pack" a bearing, that's how I was taught when I was a teen! And yup, over tighten the nut to disburse the extra grease and properly seat the bearings, then loosen and properly torque!

Hey Sys, no problem. It all started when the archaic "points" ignition system was brought up, and I mentioned about when the condenser shorts out (a fairly common problem waaaaay back in the day)it in essence shorted out the points killing the ignition, but I called it a capacitor, then Puc wanted to know which term is correct, capacitor (What electrically it is) or a condenser (what it does in the application). You see, I've been involved in Electronics since I was 12, I used to make money as a teen fixing AM radios, and was a Ham Radio operator at age 14 so I tend to call them capacitors. Puc, on the other hand was a wrench when he was young and is more familiar with the Auto Mechanic's term Condenser. So, he asked and I answered about Capacitor vs. Condenser and why it is referred to as a Condenser...

Nice PARKING LOT lights!! I'm sure a former LEO like you would have no intentions of having them on while the vehicle is moving or on the highway... Unless you happen to be a fireman responding to a call, or at least in NY State.

That IS strange!! They are usually wired one of two ways. Either the power for the lights comes from 12 volts accessory switched on and off either directly or via a relay so they are on (when turned on) with either the low or high beams, or they are wired to the low beam instead of 12 volts acc, so they are on with low beam, off with high beam. Sometimes they get hooked up to the high beam line so they are off with low beam but on with high beam. But the sequence you describe is really weird to say the least. There would have to be some kind of logic sequencer hooked up to get that kind of pattern...

I betcha the next few days are going to take FOREVER!!

The one from the back of the bike, under the trunk, is the CB radio. The components in the fairing are the tuner and audio components, besides the cassette deck... The unit on the handlebars is the controller for the whole system, CB included.