Heartbeat

I noticed that mine does this hum lately when turning/leaning either direction and I account it to the tire cupping which I had previously noted. I have increased the air pressure some since. The tire has good tread depth. So my question is: other than getting rid of the hum, is there really any good reason (or safety issue) that the tire should be changed?

Just some food for thought... I have had a battery drain to totally dead (0 volts) on a car. And when I put a newer style electronic charger on it, it wouldn't charge at all. I even tried another newer charger that would automatically change the amperage and "recondition" the battery, but it still wouldn't work. Then I put an old battery charger (without any electronics) on it and it came back to life. I left it on a few hours and then switched back to the newer charger so that it would automatically shut off when charged. That battery is still holding up over a year later.

Thanks for your replies. I do see that the oil level is above halfway and I will be correcting that this weekend when I change the oil and then cleaning up the residue. I also see that, if necessary, I could put a shorter spring on the linkage to put more tension to hold it off.

I know that mine has been running lately when riding in 85+ degree weather as I can feel the change in air temperature on my legs when it kicks on. I have considered running a indicator light off of it so that I know when it is running so that if it ever stops working correctly hopefully I will notice it long before the temperature light comes on. Kind of like the voltmeter that I am adding to it; I want to have a warning before it ever becomes an issue.

I know that I have read about this before but I can't seem to find it now by searching. I have a 99 RSV and the choke linkage and area around it is damp with what seems like oil or it may even be varnish residue from gasoline. It has been like this since I purchased it 4 years ago. Should I be concerned about this? If so, what repairs/maintenance should be done? What can be used to clean it safely and not damage other nearby parts? In a related issue, yesterday I stalled it while pulling out from a stoplight. It then didn't want to start so I reached down to choke it only to realize that the choke was actually on part way, when I had distinctly pushed it off 40 miles beforehand. Once I pushed it off, the bike started right up. Apparently it had shifted part way on due the vibration from that 40 mile trip. I saw that there is a spring on it to help keep it off. Is there a way to "tighten" this linkage up?

Yes they are, now I found them. Thanks Kevin!

How can I get one of these Carbonone adapters with legs, or go about refabricating my old one? How long are the legs?

Just writing to see if anything new has happened as far as getting/putting Reverse on a 2nd Gen Venture since this last post?

5 years ago, I had fork seals leak within a very short time (only a few days/miles) after I replaced them on a 1984 Venture. I decided to get a different set of used forks and installed new seals in them and never had an issue with them leaking for over 3 years (then I sold it). At the time, I surmised that the anti-dive valve(s) (brake dampers) were at fault and causing excessive pressure to build up and therefore push the oil out. I could be wrong on that idea, but thought I would add some food for thought.

This is what we use for our 8 lb. dog. It is similar to a front infant carrier or a reversed back pack. It is a Kyjen Outward Hound Front Carrier. The wife rides on the bike behind me and has the carrier attached to her. The dog loves it! [ame=http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081XIIU2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1]Amazon.com : Kyjen 2509 Front Carrier For Dogs Easy-Fit Adjustable Dog Carrier, Medium, Blue : Pet Carrier Backpacks : Pet Supplies@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41UKehJknlL.@@AMEPARAM@@41UKehJknlL[/ame]

I can definitely make a better key (a factory-like key) because I am not using your current key to guide my cutter/puncher; that would be making a "copy of a bad key." With your key, I would measure the current cuts to assess what the cuts should be which is also what the code would tell me. If you don't have any other key, I could probably take my measurements from an exact cardboard cutout. These keys have 7 cuts and each cut can be up to 5 (I believe) different depths. I have the picture of your key and I think I can determine the readings that I need and punch a key from it. Email or PM me your address and I will punch and send a key to you. If it works, square up with me then. Having a factory-like punched key, that I can make, is your best bet of getting your ignition switch to work better along with lubrication. The tumbler on all locks do wear but with a good key and lock lubrication, you can usually get a long time out of the tumblers/lock itself. If you were to find a key code, it would need to be a code from A7001 to A8500. It would be stamped with a punch not in ink. The ink code found is a date marking. I was told the only place you may find a key code on the bike is stamped on the ignition switch or on the helmet locks. Mike

I have the tools to punch your key. Refer to my earlier post on page 2. The number found and shown on the gas cap in ink is a date reference, not the key code. I went through this a year ago. That is when I bought the adapters for my key cutter to punch keys for Yamahas. The actual key code would be stamped.

I had the same issue so I invested in a Curtis key cutter and the proper pieces to cut my own key. It was very costly to do that, but I figured I would be able to help others with the same problem. I can punch new keys for other people with this issue or that simply want a factory-like punched key(s). I have the standard blanks and can also get the black cover Yamaha ones, or black cover knock-offs. You would have to send me your worn key for me to get a reading from and then I can set my cutter to "punch" the key rather than grind it like most everyone does. This "punching" method is the same method used to make the original key. I was going to advertise this service on eBay but I never took the time to do it yet. The price for the first standard blank key is $20 which includes shipping back to you within the U.S. The other blanks cost are additional, $8 for a knock-off black cover and $16 for a genuine Yamaha black cover. If you want to send me blanks, the cost to punch the first one is $20, and each additional is $3. Just email or message me and I can give you more details.

Do these 4" speakers fit the front and rear of the 2nd Generations also? I can't seem to get the radio on my '99 to sound good when I'm riding; I've tried adjusting the treble and bass and can't get a good consistent sound.

Thanks Freebird! I actually attached mine to the outer air filter box/cover just behind the left lower fairing. It fits nicely in that area as well.

Thanks Playboy! That's what I came up with with cross referencing the O'Reilly fuel filter link but I wanted to make sure. The Wix and O'Reilly # is 33011, NAPA # is 3011, AutoZone # is FF3403DL, and the Fram # is G7144.

Anyone have a link to this? "Sky Doc's wiring harness and bracket" for the Wolo horn.

Playboy, did you (or anyone else) happen to come across the Wix number for the fuel filter on the second generation RSV?

Where did you install this Wolo horn at on the bike? Is it the small dual tone air horn they have that you can get in Chrome? Do you have any pictures?

I've seen some of these used on eBay. Not sure if they are the one you need though. Here is one link. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Royal-Star-Venture-Intercom-Cable-C-/140577319605?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item20bb0faab5

If you are simply looking for a glue, you can get Automotive Trim Adhesive in a tube (instead of the tape) at the auto parts as well. It is for gluing on emblems and such.

I had a similar thing earlier this week with my manometer that I got from Sabercycle 4 years ago. I haven't used it in 2 years and when I was using it the other day, it had liquid above the mercury of unequal heights so I was concerned about its accuracy. My guess is that since I left it hanging with the hoses uncapped all this time that condensation entered the manometer due to seasonal, humidity, and temperature changes in my garage. I actually drained the mercury last night and separated the mercury from the contaminates. I then tested the manometer with trans fluid but as I suspected, it is too light to use in this small manometer. I then flushed out the tubes and reservoir but ended up breaking one of the tubes in the process. So today I ordered the Carbtune. I was going to order the Carbtune when I bought the other one 4 years ago but opted to "save" some money. But in the end, I should have paid the extra then. The Carbtune is also easy to transport which the other I had was not.

My bike is missing both plastic deflectors. Both side brackets are there with all the hardware. I thought I had seen at one time that someone made their own deflectors out of aluminum diamond plate. Can anyone direct me to the thread? Can anyone supply me with a pattern or measurements so that I can cut my own out of diamond plate?

It may have been said elsewhere, but I would think that the only way to get the whine completely corrected is to also change the gear that the clutch basket gear messes to although that may be extensive to do as it would probably require disassembling the engine and transmission. Any insight on this is appreciated as I may purchase a 2005 that already has a loud whine.

When I noticed my carbs needed synced, I felt a roughness when cruising at highway speeds. I bought my sync gauge through a Goldwing website (Saber Cycle) that also sells them on eBay; it costs about $55 and comes with the 5mm and 6mm adapters for other bikes. It uses mercury and can do up to 4 carbs. It worked good for me.