Heartbeat

3M automotive emblem and molding tape. Available at most auto parts stores.

Thanks for the link. I am looking for the actual fixture/bucket itself.

Does anyone have any leads for the 4-1/2" factory passing lights or aftermarket ones that are metric thread and mount the same way? Even just the buckets?

Here are small weatherproof voltmeters that I have found on ebay and/or Amazon. On my Venture, I used one that is more of a box shape and used doubled faced molding tape to attach it to the underside of the dash and put a plug on it to plug into the cigar lighter. I plan to wire it direct the next time that I have the fairing apart. The second picture is one I have found since that is more of a flat design. I like Woody's solution as well.

Hence another reason to put a voltmeter on the bike. I did years ago as I have heard stories of the regulator failing while riding and leaving riders stranded. With a volt meter you can see if something is not right.

Do a search on here. Someone rebuilds them and describes how to do it youself if you are able.

I will make plans to get it by the end of October if you can hold it that long. It someone else needs it more than me, let them have it. I'll PM you for direct contact information.

I have interest, just not sure when I could pick it up.

Here are the pics.

I mounted mine onto the left side air box just behind the lower fairing.

I check in on the second gen threads several times a week. Still riding and enjoying my '99 RSV when I have time.

I can punch new "Factory-like" keys for these motorcycles with or without the keycode. I have all the information in the Classifieds section. Or contact me for more information. I acquired the tools and supplies to make these after having the same issue with my key turning.

I can punch new keys that are a factory-like punched key(s) for your 1st or 2nd Generation Venture and RSTD. 　 Send me your key code, key or even a worn key for me to get a reading from and then I can set my cutter to "punch" the key rather than grind it like most everyone does. This "punching" method is the same method used to make the original key.　 If you don't have a key code or an extra key to send me, send me a good quality close up picture of your key; I have had good success with that. For those that have 2 keys for their bike locks, I can punch 1 key to fit all of your locks. You simply have to insert the key the correct way into which lock you are using. This works for all second gen and RSTD; first gen depends on if the key blanks are the same as there are 6 different blanks to fit the older Yamahas. 　 Yamaha Key Price Menu 1st Generation 1983-93 1st key punched (flat metal) $20 includes shipping to you Additional keys on same order $10 each, no additional shipping cost Punching a key blank that you send to me $5 each plus one $5 charge for shipping back to you.　 2nd Generation 1999-2013 RSV & 2005 - Present RSTD 1st key punched (flat metal) $18 includes shipping to you Additional flat metal keys cut on same order $8 each, no additional shipping cost 1st key punched (black plastic knock-off) $20 includes shipping to you Additional black plastic knock-off keys cut on same order $10 each, no additional shipping cost 1st key punched - genuine Yamaha black plastic and the newer style black, red, or blue, $22 includes shipping to you Additional genuine Yamaha black plastic cut on same order $12 each, no additional shipping cost Punching a key blank that you send to me $5 each plus one $5 charge for shipping back to you. I strive to keep my prices low although the key blanks are costly and I have a lot of money invested in being able to provide this service to fellow Venture and RSTD owners!

I can punch new keys that are a factory-like punched key(s) for your 1st or 2nd Generation Venture and RSTD. 　 Send me your key code, key or even a worn key for me to get a reading from and then I can set my cutter to "punch" the key rather than grind it like most everyone does. This "punching" method is the same method used to make the original key.　 If you don't have a key code or an extra key to send me, send me a good quality close up picture of your key; I have had good success with that. For those that have 2 keys for their bike locks, I can punch 1 key to fit all of your locks. You simply have to insert the key the correct way into which lock you are using. This works for all second gen and RSTD; first gen depends on if the key blanks are the same as there are 6 different blanks to fit the older Yamahas. 　 Yamaha Key Price Menu 1st Generation 1983-93 1st key punched (flat metal) $20 includes shipping to you Additional keys on same order $10 each, no additional shipping cost Punching a key blank that you send to me $5 each plus one $5 charge for shipping back to you.　 2nd Generation 1999-2013 RSV & 2005 - Present RSTD 1st key punched (flat metal) $18 includes shipping to you Additional flat metal keys cut on same order $8 each, no additional shipping cost 1st key punched (black plastic knock-off) $20 includes shipping to you Additional black plastic knock-off keys cut on same order $10 each, no additional shipping cost 1st key punched - genuine Yamaha black plastic, newer style red, black or blue, $22 includes shipping to you Additional genuine Yamaha black plastic cut on same order $12 each, no additional shipping cost Punching a key blank that you send to me $5 each plus one $5 charge for shipping back to you. I strive to keep my prices low although the key blanks are costly and I have a lot of money invested in being able to provide this service to fellow Venture and RSTD owners!

I can punch new keys that are a factory-like punched key(s) for your 1st or 2nd Generation Venture and RSTD. 　 Send me your key code, key or even a worn key for me to get a reading from and then I can set my cutter to "punch" the key rather than grind it like most everyone does. This "punching" method is the same method used to make the original key.　 If you don't have a key code or an extra key to send me, send me a good quality close up picture of your key; I have had good success with that. For those that have 2 keys for their bike locks, I can punch 1 key to fit all of your locks. You simply have to insert the key the correct way into which lock you are using. This works for all second gen and RSTD; first gen depends on if the key blanks are the same as there are 6 different blanks to fit the older Yamahas. 　 Yamaha Key Price Menu 1st Generation 1983-93 1st key punched (flat metal) $20 includes shipping to you Additional keys on same order $10 each, no additional shipping cost Punching a key blank that you send to me $5 each plus one $5 charge for shipping back to you.　 2nd Generation 1999-2013 RSV & 2005 - Present RSTD 1st key punched (flat metal) $18 includes shipping to you Additional flat metal keys cut on same order $8 each, no additional shipping cost 1st key punched (black plastic knock-off) $20 includes shipping to you Additional black plastic knock-off keys cut on same order $10 each, no additional shipping cost 1st key punched - genuine Yamaha black plastic and the newer style black, red, or blue, $22 includes shipping to you Additional genuine Yamaha black plastic cut on same order $12 each, no additional shipping cost Punching a key blank that you send to me $5 each plus one $5 charge for shipping back to you. I strive to keep my prices low although the key blanks are costly and I have a lot of money invested in being able to provide this service to fellow Venture and RSTD owners!

[TABLE=width: 100%] [TR] [TD=class: blockrow, align: left] I can punch new keys that are a factory-like punched key(s) for your 1st or 2nd Generation Venture and RSTD. 　 Send me your key code, key or even a worn key for me to get a reading from and then I can set my cutter to "punch" the key rather than grind it like most everyone does. This "punching" method is the same method used to make the original key.　 If you don't have a key code or an extra key to send me, send me a good quality close up picture of your key; I have had good success with that. For those that have 2 keys for their bike locks, I can punch 1 key to fit all of your locks. You simply have to insert the key the correct way into which lock you are using. This works for all second gen and RSTD; first gen depends on if the key blanks are the same as there are 6 different blanks to fit the older Yamahas. 　 Yamaha Key Price Menu [h=2]1st Generation 1983-93[/h] 1st key punched (flat metal) $20 includes shipping to you Additional keys on same order $10 each, no additional shipping cost Punching a key blank that you send to me $5 each plus one $5 charge for shipping back to you.　 [h=2]2nd Generation 1999-2013 RSV & 2005 - Present RSTD[/h] 1st key punched (flat metal) $18 includes shipping to you Additional flat metal keys cut on same order $8 each, no additional shipping cost 1st key punched (black plastic knock-off) $20 includes shipping to you Additional black plastic knock-off keys cut on same order $10 each, no additional shipping cost 1st key punched - genuine Yamaha black plastic $22 includes shipping to you Additional genuine Yamaha black plastic cut on same order $12 each, no additional shipping cost Punching a key blank that you send to me $5 each plus one $5 charge for shipping back to you. I strive to keep my prices low although the key blanks are costly and I have a lot of money invested in being able to provide this service to fellow Venture and RSTD owners! [/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=class: blockrow, width: 10%, align: left]Keywords:[/TD] [TD=class: blockrow, align: left]Keys - I can Punch (cut) new original factory-like ones for you, 1st 2nd Generation Venture RSTD[/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

I am thinking of the same as djh3 said. You could still have the relay controlling the positive side power to the horn as long as you use the grounding from the horn switch to control the relay coil itself.

I was thinking about this the other day and had the same thought as Rafterd. The solenoid could be at fault and causing more draw (amperage) through the starter button switch thus causing the contacts to overheat and distort. Could also be a ground issue at/for the solenoid for this starter switch circuit.

Yes, the opposite beam burning out is puzzling. If the VR checks out to be okay, maybe it is an issue with the switch itself or the ground circuit.

Could possibly be a bad voltage regulator allowing too many volts and thereby blowing the bulb. The first thing to check is voltage across the battery before starting the bike and then after it is running. Check also with the throttle at high RPMs. From bongobobny in the recent "I am the battery assassin" post: Well, before you replace parts that may not need replacing, you need to do a little basic troubleshooting with a voltmeter. For starters, with the voltmeter on DC volts, measure across the battery with the bike running. At idle you should see around 12.8 to 13.2 volts. When you rev the engine up you should see the voltage rise, the higher the RPM's, the higher the voltage until you reach the "regulator operating voltage" which can be anything from around 13.6 to 14.8 volts, give or take. If you are seeing anything higher than 14.8 volts, chances are your regulator is defective and needs replacing!! Too high of a voltage will indeed cook a battery in a short time! The next thing to do if your regulator voltage is good is to switch the voltmeter to AC voltage and do the same. Regardless of the RPM's you should not see any AC voltage other than possibly 1 volt or less. If you see a large AC voltage, the rectifier section of your rectifier/regulator is probably toasted. If your battery is seeing a large AC component that too will kill a battery. With AC applied to the battery it will be constantly charging and discharging. AC voltage is constantly changing polarity...

I am interested in the tall windshield with vent. Cruiserlover, I sent you a PM.

Please count me in for a set. Let me know when you have them ready and how to go about paying.

I'd be interested in the parts as well. I already got the stand last year but just haven't had time to make the custom pieces myself. Do you know the cost for the parts yet? I see you list the S&H as around $10, which is fair.

I just saw and sat on 1 of these 2018s at Thunder in the Valley in Johnstown, PA., 2 days ago. I even got to start it up; but no test rides yet. The rep. said that it is only 1 of 3 at this point. The first ones should be available from dealers at the end of August. It did sound nice and has a lower center of gravity. I am not sold on it being a 2 cylinder and being air cooled but he said that in their track record, these engines don't overheat. I didn't research or ask, but I think that this is the same engine that they have been using on of the other RS models, so hopefully they have the bugs worked out of it. I did notice the extra wide rear tire, but it makes sense for keeping traction with the torque that it will put out. It does have park-assist forward and reverse (which is long overdue), a little more cargo space, and driver's seat backrest adjustment. The heal/toe shifter is an upgrade/option. Still no arm rests for the passenger though. The rear shock is hydraulic (not air) and is adjustable, and the front shocks/forks are not air and not adjustable (without changing springs). And it's back to the fixed fairing as the first gens had.

I suspect a faulty diode in the regulator/rectifier. Does the problem stop when you disconnect the R/R? With electrical issues, one way to diagnose is to begin by disconnecting wiring harness plugs until the issue stops, that way you can isolate the problem down to a circuit or component.