Freebird

[h=2]Submitted by BongoBobNY Electrical Trouble Shooting Results/Help **UPDATED INFORMATION***[/h]OK, time for me to TFU (Test For Understanding)... You may be over testing, all you really need to do is first unplug the stator from the wiring harness located near the fuel pump, and arbitrarily label the 3 white wires A, B, and C. The stator end is the plug that heads down to the bottom of the bike, not the end that heads up to the wiring harness. Now, using an ohm meter on the highest scale, first read the resistance from each wire individually to ground. All 3 wires should read infinity ohms to ground! If there is NOT an open circuit to ground then one of your windings is shorted to ground and is defective! Next, with the ohm meter on a lower scale, read the resistance of all 3 combinations of wires, A to B, A to C, and B to C. All 3 readings should be almost equal, say within 1% of each other. If they are NOT almost equal, then one of the coils has a shorted turn or two and should be discarded! It is very important that these tests are done with the stator disconnected from the wiring harness!!! Of course, the bike should be turned off as well. The above is known as static testing, which should be done first. The next step is to dynamically test the stator! With the stator still unplugged, switch your multitester to AC volts using the 200-volt scale. The output of a stator is AC volts, just like a generator because, in essence, that is exactly what it is! You are going to be measuring the voltage between the 3 combinations of wires just like you did when you measured the 3 coil resistances, NOT each wire to ground! Start the bike, and measure the voltages at idle. You should see some arbitrary voltage somewhere between 10 - 20 volts AC on each combination of wires, and they should all be approximately equal. Next, increase your RPM's to say 2000 RPMs. Your AC voltages should be much higher, say around 50 volts AC on each combination of wires, and should all be still pretty much equal. Increasing your RPMs to 3000 or higher should give you voltages closer to 100 volts AC. The point being, the voltages should all increase uniformly with increasing RPMs! It is also important that these readings are done with the stator disconnected from the system as there could be the possibility of a defective R/R dragging down the readings when connected! I am going through this detailed information to make sure you, and any others reading this, are PROPERLY testing their stators operation! I would hate to see you condemn a stator if you did not test it the right way! I also need to mention a somewhat uncommon but possible failure with stators, and that is a thermal problem where when cold, the varnish on the wires acts as an insulator, but when it heats up the varnish breaks down and shorts out the windings either to itself or to ground. The result being your stator tests fine when the bike is cold, and you go for a ride. Sometime later the varnish breaks down and you loose charging to the battery once the bike heats up! So, what you have to do is warm up the bike considerably and then while still warm, repeat the above testing! OK, so if your stator is both statically and dynamically function properly, AND you have tested your battery with a load tester and you are absolutely sure it is good, then the last test is to determine if your Regulator/Rectifier is operating properly. With your multimeter now switched to DC volts this time, measure across the battery. You should see somewhere around 12.5 volts give or take. Now start the bike, and at idle you should see a little more voltage but not much. When you increase your RPM's the voltage should increase as well! At 2000 RPM you should see maybe 13.2 volts, give or take, and at higher RPM's you will see more voltage up to around 14.5 volts at high RPMs. There should be a point where with higher RPM's the voltage will no longer increase but remain the same regardless of how much more you increase the RPM's. This maximum voltage is what your regulator is set to regulate at, and no two regulators are exactly the same! I would discard any regulator that does not regulate at a minimum of 13.8 volts, and also discard it if it regulates anything higher than say 14.8 volts! The last test of the R/R is to test if it is rectifying properly! What a rectifier does is converts the AC voltage coming from the Stator to a DC voltage that the bike's electrical system uses. Rectifiers can go bad or worse only half bad, where they will sort of convert to DC but will also have some AC riding along with it! To properly check this you need a device called an oscilloscope, but you can effectively test this with your multimeter turned back to AC volts on a lower scale and put it across the battery with the bike running at a higher RPM. You should see darn near zero volts AC at all times and all RPMs! You may see some tiny amount of AC voltage that could be coming from anywhere, but it should be below 0.1 volts AC! If you are seeing anything like 1 volt or more, there is a chance part of your rectifier section of your R/R is defective and should be replaced!! Hope this helps you, and others out!!!

I agree that it is not mileage related. Just do it and get it over with. At least the heavy duty cables. I had an '88 Venture Royale with under 40,000 miles on it that had the issue.

Sure not a lot out there that matches that description. I know nothing about this one but it is close. Flames though. https://xtremehelmets.com/daytona-skull-cap-slim-line-helmet-flames-blue/?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adwords&id=18283950120&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_IThrJTK1QIVDIJpCh0F6wKAEAQYBSABEgJ6Q_D_BwE

Oh...ok....I have no idea where that one is. If we could find the post, I may have it archived. It would be way outdated by now anyway.

The map is still here. Just click "Member Map" in the menu bar.

I don't know anything about them but I do like Nissan. I saw the XD Diesel sitting somewhere in a shopping center and it was a heck of good looking truck.

There are a couple of fuses. The one that most people miss is inside the right lower cowling just above the crash bar. You have to remove the front of the cowling to get to it.

Southbound is correct. The only thing back there that has anything to do with the stereo is the antenna. Everything else is either CB, Intercom, or passenger volume control related.

Growing up in NE Texas, they were a regular sight. They would play havoc on your lawn in the hot summer. We would water the lawn to keep it green and then they would show up at night dig for insects in the moist earth. It is true that they don't see very well. I've been in the woods and seen them coming towards me. I could stand very still and they would walk right up a trail and start sniffing my boots.

To top things off, about the time I finally thought I day was done. It was around 4:30, I got a call from a customer in Strongsville, OH who had run her stairlift over her walking cane and broke the front limit switches. So, had to load back up and head to Strongsville. Only about a 40 minute drive, about 30 minute repair, and 40 minute drive back home but after an already brutal day, it seemed like forever.

Here's the thing as for having two jobs and loads of money. I need both jobs because I need my job to support me. I'm not keeping a dime of the stairlift money. There is not chance that Terry is going to recover. He has pancreatic cancer and they did all that they could. We have Hospice coming in a couple of times a week to keep tabs on his pain meds and vitals but it's just a matter of time. I have been running the business since before Christmas and it is doing well but all proceeds are going to him. I'm not taking a salary or cut of any kind. He needs what I am bringing in to pay his own bills. So, it's just keep on keeping on as long as it takes. I would think about hiring somebody to help but finding somebody reliable and who I can trust to treat the customers with the respect and kindness that our elderly deserve is very difficult. I did finalize another sale today and have another pending from the two sales calls that I made after my install this morning. It really is a pretty good business. I actually own the business now. He has already signed everything over to me but I'm just not taking any money out of it. When his suffering is over and he is in a better place, I will have a big decision to make. Keep my current job or quit and keep the stairlift business going. I know that I can't do both forever.

It's been a great summer so far. In late winter, I installed new brand new Dunlop E3s on my RSV. Had them mounted, took them back home and installed the wheels, got it off the lift and it has sat there ever since. Actually, I did back it out of the garage and wash it. Pulled it back in and covered it up. I have ridden exactly ZERO miles this year. I also have two nearly new Yamaha Waverunners sitting and covered. Haven't even uncovered them this year. Something has to give pretty soon. Between my full time job and running my Brother in Laws stairlift business, I'm working 7 days a week. I spend about 10-12 hours or more per day on Stairlift sales calls, service calls, and installs on my days off. I actually took vacation this past week but worked all day every day getting caught up on Stairlift installs. I think I installed 12 units in July and have another install this morning, two sales calls this afternoon, another install tomorrow. I already have 3 installs scheduled for next weekend and that does not include what I will probably sell later today. So, it looks doubtful that I'll put any miles on the bike or the Waverunners this year. I'm glad to be able to help a family member but this old man is getting fairly broken down physically and mentally. The good news is. Yes, the sun will come up tomorrow.

Sounds like you simply replaced a bad one with another bad one. The answer is to resolder the connections on the circuit board. There is a "how to" in the first get tech library.

Yes, you stole it. Good job.

To answer the question though, yes, it can be done. Most tuners have the option to raise the rev limiter. Like Bob says, there are certainly limits as to how high you want to raise it. Several of us here have replace the ignition modules on our RSV's with the Dyna2000. I did it on my '99 and have already done it on my '05. They will tell you to NOT raise it above, I think it's 7200, unless you install heavy duty valve springs. I have no doubt that somebody will come out with an aftermarket module for the new one pretty quickly. On the Harley Road Glide that I had, you didn't need a new module as it was fuel injected and all electronic. You just plugged a tuner in and reset things they way you wanted to. Rev limiter, air flow, even speedometer calibration. You could do it all with the tuner. I loved that. Of course the particular tuner that I bought was around $750.00 if I remember correctly and it was mated to YOUR bike. Meaning, I could not use it to tune somebody elses bike.

I'm sure that you guys know this but for anybody who doesn't. There is a big difference between decorative chrome that you see on bumpers, handlebars, etc. and hard chrome that is used on machine and industrial parts. I'm sure that the chrome on the shock is hard chrome. Not just any chrome plating shop can do that.

Rick, is that an Espancade? If so, I would like to know what you paid for it if you don't mind sending me a PM. I have a chance to pick one up at what I THINK is a very cheap price. Thinking about buying it just to resell.

I did it several weeks ago. No issues at all. I never had any issues with 10 anyway though. The only issue with 10 was with the old Microsoft Streets and Trips that I use on my company computer. It has the GPS dongle that plugs into the USB port so it basically works like a big GPS. When I upgraded to the last version of 10 before the creators edition, plugging the receiver in would cause a blue screen of death. A quick Internet search revealed that it had happened to everybody using the GPS enable version of Streets. The creators edition corrected that issue.

hmmm...I don't know if you got it or I did. I rotated and re-uploaded it just a couple of minutes before you posted.

I fixed it for you.

Yea, in this test he said he averaged 41.1 MPG. I've seen better and worse but I'm fine with anything over 40.

Not that I've ever heard. It's considered routine maintenance.

I was an electrician at TU Electric in Monticello, TX. Lignite fired power plant. 3 units. I actually had an opportunity to transfer to Glen Rose just as they were finishing construction on it but ended up turning it down.

By the way, here is the place that I found the one that I bought. It was not listed on his page but I emailed him and he had it. If you look at the brands in the left menu, you will see a number of German manufacturers and many of them are made in Soligen. https://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/catalog/index.php?route=common/home&member_id=51&store_mode=standard

Soligen is actually a city in Germany that is renowned for their knife makers. You will find a lot of German knives that are from Soligen. Fight'n Rooster hasn't made a full line of knives in several years, not sure how long. After Frank Buster passed away, his son Sterling Buster sort of partially kept the company going but all they actually made was a couple of special editions per year I think. If you search, you can find some Fight'n Roosters out there but they are all either new old stock or used. There are quite a few on Ebay but finding this particular one was difficult. I was told by a collector that this one is a 3 blade Congress with "Crown" bolsters. He also told me that it was the first production run and would be difficult to find. I think I got lucky. I know it was a Congress, I had always heard the bolsters called "pinched". I had no idea it was the first production run. I guess you can tell that by the design of the shield. The shields changed over the years.