OOOoooo that's scary. But like has been mentioned many times, any shot is not without risks or side effects. Glad for you that things are looking better at this point and that you didn't suffer worse. Thing is,,,, now what.... do you or don't you?
At the bottom of the cover that is off in one of the pictures there is a bolt that holds the cover on. It should have a copper washer on it to seal. I think it might be missing or it may not be a copper one.
As you sit on the bike,,, to the left of the battery box there should be a rectangular in-line box, about 2 inches long by about 1inch square. There are 2 red wires coming from the positive side of the battery, one is large and goes to the solenoid and the other is smaller and has the in-line fuse.
Sounds to me like you might have a short in the starter or the cable going to the starter. You might also check the connections at the battery, pull and tug on the cables to make sure they are clean and tight. Don't be afraid to hull on them a bit, if they are loose they will come apart and you found a problem that needs fixing anyways.
So,, after reading some GL posts in other forums, there is some talk about the Anti-dive causing a seal leak. I scratch my head over that. What do they have to do with each other? The anti-dive is there to slow the progression of fork depression, so limiting the transfer of fork oil. How does that effect the seal?
Sure,,,, slap me over the head,,,, give me a wedgie,,,, spill my coffee,,, drink my beer and then tell me you love me after pulling the rug from under me. Love you too Earl!!
Tell us more info:
Battery voltage, at the posts and at the connectors.
Does the headlight come on when you turn the ignition.
Check the main fuse, left side of battery in rectangular plastic holder. Should be an extra one there as well.
A bigger bit just the right size to fit the bore will give you a depressed perfect center at the bottom of the bore at the screw. Go too small and you will add aggravation or maybe even another carb.
Suggestion: Grab a drill bit the same size (or very slightly smaller) that will just clean the inside of the bore, not to take any metal, just the 'dirt'. Drill out the remainder of the brass screw, a little at a time until it's even with the threaded part. Now you have a nice centered platform to work from, and not some dumb angled unapproachable screw end. To do a nice job you will need a nice sharp bit that runs 100% true.
If you have a remote, just velcro it somewhere on or in the scoot. Depending on the type and age of the opener, there could be a generic remote available that can be programed to suit.
It being an 85 there is nothing that can't be fixed, just ask me, I know. Now,,,,, how to fix it??? well that can be discussed.
Welcome to the most amazing site this side of eternity. Looking forward to dialogue.
Thanks for all your input,,,, I now have to convince him to go with OEM,,, and he is Dutch,, just like me.
A penny saved is a penny earned.
or
Penny wise and pound foolish.
Dilemma, dilemma.
What do you mean..... Canadians???? We tried, but it wouldn't turn. Found out later that both back wheels needed to be off the ground and there was only one jack. Guess it was cheaper to have a spare rather than put in 2 jacks,,,,, Americans!!!! and their engineers!!!
I had a flat once,, and after working in the mud and snow in my Sunday suit to change it out, discovered it was only flat at the bottom!!! Things they don't tell yah in the owners manual!!!
Forgot to mention: replaced guide bushings,,, just for that reason Earl, but thanks for bringing that up. We did go with seals from AllBalls though, thinking that they might be reputable enough? Might there be too much wear in the lower tubes? Fresh oil was in the tubes for only 2 weeks and was totally black.