Marcarl

What do you mean by 'wouldn't start'. It wouldn't turn over or it turned over but wouldn't fire.?

Correction: Queenston Lewiston Bridge should read, Peace Bridge.

I don't see anything correlation (big word for me) between the cracks in the front and what's on the back. No way should a tire crack like that under any circumstances. (another big word, but this one I've spelled before)

I would suck out all the old fluid, then use brake clean to wash out the reservoir, and then do it again, all the corners and crevices. Dry it out with a clean cloth, gently blow some air to finish the drying and then add new fluid. Only fill to about the half-way mark. The system doesn't ever use any fluid so no need to fill it up to the top. If you do fill it full then you run the risk of having the fluid expand when it gets hot and then it will push the clutch plates apart.

And clean it out like you are sanitizing it.

There is a switch attached to the kick stand that caused the bike to die if the kick stand is down and bike is in gear. Guess you know that anyways. Work the kickstand back and forth a few time, let it bang on the way up to see if the switch is maybe stuck. Can't think of anything else that might cause that to happen. There's no adjustment to the clutch and if there was it would not cause what you are describing. The clutch is hydrolic so can run out of fluid, but has no impact on engine running.

Just a good reminder!!! CHECK YOUR TIRES OFTEN!! no matter how good the reputation.

Try making sure that your kick stand is up and the switch is working

OOOoooo that's scary. But like has been mentioned many times, any shot is not without risks or side effects. Glad for you that things are looking better at this point and that you didn't suffer worse. Thing is,,,, now what.... do you or don't you?

At the bottom of the cover that is off in one of the pictures there is a bolt that holds the cover on. It should have a copper washer on it to seal. I think it might be missing or it may not be a copper one.

Now that makes a bit of sense,,,, finally some wisdom here!!! @ guys saying more or less the same thing, must make it right! Thanks guys!!

As you sit on the bike,,, to the left of the battery box there should be a rectangular in-line box, about 2 inches long by about 1inch square. There are 2 red wires coming from the positive side of the battery, one is large and goes to the solenoid and the other is smaller and has the in-line fuse.

Sounds to me like you might have a short in the starter or the cable going to the starter. You might also check the connections at the battery, pull and tug on the cables to make sure they are clean and tight. Don't be afraid to hull on them a bit, if they are loose they will come apart and you found a problem that needs fixing anyways.

So,, after reading some GL posts in other forums, there is some talk about the Anti-dive causing a seal leak. I scratch my head over that. What do they have to do with each other? The anti-dive is there to slow the progression of fork depression, so limiting the transfer of fork oil. How does that effect the seal?

Sure,,,, slap me over the head,,,, give me a wedgie,,,, spill my coffee,,, drink my beer and then tell me you love me after pulling the rug from under me. Love you too Earl!!

It's a beautiful piece.

Tell us more info: Battery voltage, at the posts and at the connectors. Does the headlight come on when you turn the ignition. Check the main fuse, left side of battery in rectangular plastic holder. Should be an extra one there as well.

A bigger bit just the right size to fit the bore will give you a depressed perfect center at the bottom of the bore at the screw. Go too small and you will add aggravation or maybe even another carb.

Suggestion: Grab a drill bit the same size (or very slightly smaller) that will just clean the inside of the bore, not to take any metal, just the 'dirt'. Drill out the remainder of the brass screw, a little at a time until it's even with the threaded part. Now you have a nice centered platform to work from, and not some dumb angled unapproachable screw end. To do a nice job you will need a nice sharp bit that runs 100% true.

So did Montreal bleed a lot?

If you have a remote, just velcro it somewhere on or in the scoot. Depending on the type and age of the opener, there could be a generic remote available that can be programed to suit.

It being an 85 there is nothing that can't be fixed, just ask me, I know. Now,,,,, how to fix it??? well that can be discussed. Welcome to the most amazing site this side of eternity. Looking forward to dialogue.

Thanks for all your input,,,, I now have to convince him to go with OEM,,, and he is Dutch,, just like me. A penny saved is a penny earned. or Penny wise and pound foolish. Dilemma, dilemma.

If you were replying to me, I did not get the PM. Keep in mind that it's a Gold Wing I'm dealing with, not a Venture.

There was gas in the tank, right? If so, you made a FIX,,, now onto something more interesting.