Suggestion: Grab a drill bit the same size (or very slightly smaller) that will just clean the inside of the bore, not to take any metal, just the 'dirt'. Drill out the remainder of the brass screw, a little at a time until it's even with the threaded part. Now you have a nice centered platform to work from, and not some dumb angled unapproachable screw end. To do a nice job you will need a nice sharp bit that runs 100% true.
If you have a remote, just velcro it somewhere on or in the scoot. Depending on the type and age of the opener, there could be a generic remote available that can be programed to suit.
It being an 85 there is nothing that can't be fixed, just ask me, I know. Now,,,,, how to fix it??? well that can be discussed.
Welcome to the most amazing site this side of eternity. Looking forward to dialogue.
Thanks for all your input,,,, I now have to convince him to go with OEM,,, and he is Dutch,, just like me.
A penny saved is a penny earned.
or
Penny wise and pound foolish.
Dilemma, dilemma.
What do you mean..... Canadians???? We tried, but it wouldn't turn. Found out later that both back wheels needed to be off the ground and there was only one jack. Guess it was cheaper to have a spare rather than put in 2 jacks,,,,, Americans!!!! and their engineers!!!
I had a flat once,, and after working in the mud and snow in my Sunday suit to change it out, discovered it was only flat at the bottom!!! Things they don't tell yah in the owners manual!!!
Forgot to mention: replaced guide bushings,,, just for that reason Earl, but thanks for bringing that up. We did go with seals from AllBalls though, thinking that they might be reputable enough? Might there be too much wear in the lower tubes? Fresh oil was in the tubes for only 2 weeks and was totally black.
2003 GL 1800. Fork seals were shot. Replaced seals and tubes. One seal still leaked so replaced that one. Found it had turned upside down in the process,, they don't work well that way.
So now the new one leaks, tubes are perfect. WHY?
If you have fuel coming out with the petcock off, I would be checking above the petcock real close. Could be that the petcock doesn't shut things off completely, but I would think the petcock seal to the tank??
Looks like a missing spacer. Go back to the garage and see if it's laying around the tire machine somewhere, or in the vehicle you used to get it there. It looks like a really thick washer with an extra collar on it. The collar matches the spacer/bearing inside the wheel.
I've never used rainx, but used pledge quite a bit, but it was a Slipstream windshield, but I doubt it was any different. When rain was in the forecast, I would put on a good coating of paste wax . Never a problem. I've heard though that some Rainx will cause problems and that they make a product for 'plastic'.
https://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/oemparts/a/yam/500459b6f8700209bc793b3a/exhaust
You are right about the numbers, I didn't notice the '1' in the number for the one side.
You can try to put some glue in the joint area, but that doesn't always work either and then they are screwed.
You can also try to get the diaphragms that have a rubber boot that holds them on, but if your slides come apart it doubtful that will help either.
My guess is that the plastic is cracked and therefore the 2 parts won't hold together, so time for new slides. Cracks are very hard to see or find, but logic tells me that something got larger or weaker, and it wouldn't likely be the metal part.