Marcarl

Somebody likes Canada me tinks, and hey!! it's Canada Day today. Time to celebrate our country.

Get a new piece welded on at L&N exhaust. 519-four four nine-5288. Located close to Cathcart Auto Wreckers. May not look as pretty, but will have you up and running soon. Or call Zdeno's in Kitchener, they might have a used one.

Depends on what the running voltage is. If the stator is producing 13 some volts when running, then you should be ok for ignition from that point. On the other hand, you might have enough to start, but if the stator isn't producing then you will run into low voltage and then the ignition will start to fail,, but the bike won't start again either. So check the running voltage, it needs to be over 13v. Also, check your battery before you go to bed, it should be 12.6v and then check it again when you get up. No charger attached. It should not be less than 12.5v. If it reads 12.0v then the battery has problems.

It's hard to read without any punctuation. You could help us help yourself with a few commas and capitals.

Good so far. On the cables going to the carb, the trick is to install the carbs partway, then hook in the cables and then finish pushing the carbs into their seating area, and then push them down on the intake with a little bit of help with WD40 or Fluid Film. FF is better.

Well I suppose that it is easier to read all the dialogue in one post rather than over time in various posts, but you don't seem to realize that we thrive on helping folks fix things. Now you ticked us off by keeping us in the dark so to speak. What do you think we have all this knowledge base for? All categorized, filed, numbered, and color coded. The best answer I can give at the moment is in file drawer #14, color blue, PW 'asksomemore' . There may also be a copy in other drawers but they can't be opened presently for the case of covid security and border restrictions. Enough BS Hang in there, there will be plenty of suggestions coming your way, this one is super interesting. You have probably missed one dinky little item that needs a half turn adjustment. Couple of thoughts to get you started: When you did the carbs, how far did you tear them done, and did you use new gaskets. Did you check out the enrichment vales as well. Are they seated completely and properly in their boots, check them out again now. Did you clean the idle mixture circuit and how did you adjust it back to spec? Did you check out the stator output. What is your voltage at 5000rpm? Did you check out the grounds, especially the one at the right lower front of the engine? Are the battery terminals clean and tight, also check the terminal to cable connection. Check the fuel line from the pump to the carbs, is there a kink there somewhere. 3psi is not a lot of pressure, but it is spec and should work just fine. Seems like you have or gained a lot of knowledge in your process, Good for you!!! Trouble is, now that you have posted this, it becomes a challenge to some of us, and now you can't get rid of said unit until we get the issue solved or we'll be around to haunt you for decades.

I think it would be of interest to note that Mark noticed an extreme drag and slowdown on the hyway that started this episode.

Good to hear that you got things working again.

It could be the u-joint at the rear of the transmission #s 14,15,16.. You can pull the boot back to have a peek. Other than that I would suggest it's internal in the tranny, possibly item #4. Try turning the rear wheel and take a listen to the shaft and tranny, see if there is anything noise at all.

Yep, put the washer in the wrong spot on the rear axle and what happens is that throws the caliper off and then you could have the issue of the piston not wanting to return easily, heat up and cause a rel drag. The other common issue is a plugged hole in the rear master cylinder which restricts the return of brake fluid after release and then cause heat build up on the caliper and pads and then lockup. It's a wee tiny little hole in the master that might be blocked.

Moving it.

And if you hold your tongue just right, you can play a tune on the banjo......

You can do it yourself,, at least you'll know it was done and not just looked at. We can/will help you.

Back to your corner!!! ad you can only come out when I say SO!!

That about covers it,,,, now can you nail it down a bit better, he'll have to take the whole bike apart again.

Close enough and might even work.

Be sure to check the cable ends, give them a bit of a tug, if the come off you have found a problem. Been known to happen.

Straight UP!!

Don't be cheap, throw in the whole can of seafoam, run it for 15-20 minutes, let it sit overnight, same thing again. If that don't work, pull the carbs, or do a hot shot.

A little goes a long way, and a long way needs only a little. The less you use the better you're off, and the better you're off the less you'll use. If you can barely see it you have enough, and if you have enough you can barely see it.

I'll second that Fluid Film comment, but one better, though a little more visible is Chain Wax, can be bought at your local MC dealer. Made by Maxima Racing Lubricants. Some years ago my son bought an Astro van and while parked at our place I noticed a fairly large rust spot on the front wheel well. I had a can of chain wax in my hand and gave that spot a shot of wax. Those vans were known to loose some paint here and there, especially on the right front wheel well, and so shortly thereafter another spot appeared on the left side. I did not wax that side. A few years (2 or3) I happened to check the results. Left side rotted through and right side still intact, although less pretty than before.

It may not be necessarily a chain fro his bike, could have been anything lying on the road that might have kicked up to cause damage.

Did he maybe use the bottom screw on the middle gear cover to completely drain the oil from the gear-case and then forget to put in a sealing washer?

If you decide to replace the line going from right side to left, so from the fuel shutoff to the pump, it is a formed line and there is a special protector on the seam of the bottom of the tank that protects the line from being cut. The seam comes too close to miss the line entirely so a protection clip is added to the seam. Make sure that it matches up, or you will have a gas leak in 30 miles or less. I think it's part number 26H-24188-00-00

Maybe be time to replace the main feed hose, sometimes there is a breakdown of internal components and can get into the float valve.