Mike G in SC

I have Michelin Commander II on the rear and Dunlop E3 stock size on the front of my RSTD and my RSV. The combination is just fine. The tread pattern of the Commander II is more like the Avon Venom and the Dunlop E3. (not like the older pattern of the earlier Commander) So, they look good too. Just looked, I have 9k miles on my RSTD rear and about 14k miles on the RSV. (I forgot to log the RSV, so guessing, may be more.) Still have plenty to go. Mike G.

Steve, Wires on your adapter were about 8" each. Wires on the isolator were probably 48" for most, shorter on the white ground. I added a auto-type inline fuse on power direct to battery. But as I mounted the isolator under the seat, cut them to about 8" also. I could go back in and clean it up and cut them to just what I need (more like 4") but better cut too long,,,,. I used a really slick connector(s). WAGO 222. These are really nice as they have levers instead of crimp. So, you can remove them and reuse in seconds. This would lessen the amount of cussing normally required. I see these available on the Internet but sure can't fine them in auto parts stores. Might watch a video to see how to use them. This is in German but video is great. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j8ZoofWsK8g]WAGO Verbindungsklemmen für flexible Leiter (Serie 222) - YouTube[/ame] http://www.onlineelec.com/parts/images/products/d0222-0412_01.jpg And as I already had a trailer harness wired in before (using these kind of connectors) I simply unconnected the 4 wire and then put a male trailer end under the seat to connect to the isolator. I'll get some pictures of under the seat soon. Thanks, Mike G

Oh, Pics. First two are the new trailer (new to me) 2010 Towblazer. (same unit as a model of Escalade, different seller) I ran up to Jersey to pick it up in April. Have only towed it local but,,,, very nice. On the rear/bottom is a LED light bar that made me rewire the bike. Last pic is my Harbor Freight with Sears Cargo shell. I've had it a few years. Was time for an upgrade. Still in good shape. I will probably put it in the classifieds soon. Mike G.

Jim, Thanks again for that link. Steve K had suggested an isolator to protect the bike wiring. But, also, my bike is wired for run/turn/brake and was complicating hookup to my new trailer. I got same isolator and, with Steve's harness, all is good. I did put the isolator under the seat and, basically ran a trailer extension to the tail of the bike. And, yep quick turnaround from their Ebay shop. Mike

Easy Street! Thanks Steve, for your harness & advice on hooking up my new trailer. Steve sent me his harness for my RSV last year for providing some wiring pics for him, but my bike was already hard wired for a trailer. I got a new trailer recently that was not working with the trailer existing wiring. Probably because I'm wired for run/turn/brake. We talked & emailed and he suggested I get an isolator. Yesterday, I ended up unhooking the old trailer connections under the seat, putting in Steve's connector, wired it to the isolator and power direct to battery. Added a trailer connector (male) to the wires from the old trailer harness and plugged to the isolator. Got it! Lights work, with and without trailer as they should and my lighted cooler rack also works. Run/turn/brake on the bike still works too. But the best part is Steve's connector harness along with his wiring diagram. No guess work. Belated THANKS! Mike G. EDIT: oh and used this isolator someone mentioned on a trailer post. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trailer-Light-Isolated-Power-Supply-Converter-5-to-4-wire-PM32-/290660635436?pt=Motors_RV_Trailer_Camper_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43acb9532c=&vxp=mtr=

My dealer took my word for it last October and swapped it out. It,,,, almost left me stranded in no-man's land but I tapped it and it started back. (But I have been through a couple with him on my bikes.) What I and he noticed later was that first thing in the morning the pump did not immediately click,, hesitated for several seconds. That was good enough for him. I got a great dealer in Sumter SC (Extreme Sports Yamaha) and never understand when other dealers protest warranty work. My guy likes it. I'm guessing your dealer is the big multi-brand dealer in Concord. Might try a Yamaha bike only dealer, like Interstate in Cornelius or even the one in Sumter, SC. Mike G. EDIT: And,,,, yes, like Kirby said, read up on Gravity Feed (use search), so you will be prepared if you get stuck. I ran for 1000 miles on gravity while waiting for a pump. Just found my old post: copy/paste from last year: Quote: Originally Posted by djh3 Mike you mention "setting pump for gravity feed". What/how do you do pray tell? I'm leaving on a mountian trip next week and was thinking about just replacing the fuel filter for good measure. Currently 15500 miles. Dion, Below is a cut & paste of a cut & paste from 2009. That was on my RSTD. Will be the same for a RSV. I got lucky the other day by tapping the pump, that got me home. But it's really nice to know about setting up for Gravity Feed. Mike G in SC Like Jim said, Gravity Feed. I found my 2009 post about it(below). I ran for a week, almost 1000 miles until the dealer could get one in. Mine went at about 50k. If you get stuck, like Wizard said, you can re-route the fuel line to the carbs. in 15 minutes. Remove the seat, remove the rear tank bolt, lift the rear of the tank for access to the carb port. Pull the line off the top of the filter and re-route it to the carbs. (obviously you have to pull the line that came from the bottom of the pump to the carb.) Make sure you have a good needle nose pliers for the clamps. Oh, and a flashlight incase it happens at night. You should also open the left side cover and disconnect the electrical connection to the pump so it won't try to poop out any remaining gas. If you think you may do this for a while, buy a small cheap inline filter and a couple of inches of gas line and put it inline close to the fuel cutoff valve. You are good for lot's of miles this way. Might have issues if you let the tank get too low. Ah, and don't smoke while you are doing this! BUT,,,, now thinking about it, you could simply carry a 3' length of gas line (same size as comes off the pitcock). Maybe even put a small inline filter in it. Then, if you need to do the Gravity Feed thing you would simply run this line from the tank to the carb port. You would still have to lift the back of the tank to do it. So, then you would not have to pull the line off the filter/pump area. But do remember to open the left side cover and disconnect the pump. That is a bunch cheaper than carrying a spare pump and a lot less complicated too. I think I will head to Autozone for a few feet of gas line. Mike G in SC

Hambone, A sideline, you have 4 stations in Alexander City that have NO-Ethanol gas, all levels of octane. Also one in Sylacauga. See the link below for www.pure-gas.org for Alabama . http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp?stateprov=AL With that many stations, probably decent turnover on the tanks. So, can make ethanol a moot point.

I saw a pair of nice looking Bergmans recently. So, I Googled up on the 3 or 4 top scooters. (Maybe for old age? Not now.) They all had CVT's. One of the test pilots said he really liked the Bergman,,, except really hated the CVT. This was a video and he really blasted the transmission. Don't know if he got a bad one or it's in the breed?

Interesting. But,,, look on Amazon and other websites for MUCH better pricing on what looks like same light. http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=heider+super+torch&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=31772404779&hvpos=1t1&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1701863406244531331&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_9673e2oy0j_e More like $5 -$12 for some pretty bright stuff instead of $50. I paid $40 for a Klutch at Northern Tool. These appear to have more lumens for much cheaper. But you will probably want to get a rechargeable battery.

My understanding is that a stator (with regulator/rectifier) does not "charge" a battery like an alternator in a car. It more like sustains the charge. In that regard, if your battery gets mostly discharged, and you jump or push start it, the battery will not do a recharge like a in a car. At least not in 20 miles like you expect a car to do. So, if so, your best bet would be to put it on a battery tender instead of assuming it charged. Mike G

I'd say most have replaced the right horn with the Stebel or similar. Need to add a bracket, like Carbon One's or you can buy and mod one from Lowes for $2. But would suggest his harness. And, then unplug (and can remove) the one inside the left lower cowling. If you have the loud one on the right, you really cannot hear the stock one. It would only serve to steal juice from the little blasterd. Mike G

I want to go back to mention of the Blue Ridge Parkway. You will not find a more impressive and well maintained sky road east of the Rockies. Take it from Cherokee, NC to the Pisgah Inn, 20 miles below Asheville. That's probably 60-70 miles and you get unbelievable vistas constantly. Above Asheville is pretty but the trees are grown over for the watershed and you don't have the view but a few places. The road is in good shape with about 10 tunnels (watch for bicycles there). And constant sweeping turns. Speed limit is mostly 45 and that is just fine to enjoy it. A few turns take you down to 30-35 but they are not hard. No switchbacks. Eat at the Pisgah Inn, great view and better food. Then,,,, a mile or two north of Pisgah Inn, take Hwy 151 DOWN (serious turns) to go through Waynesville, to Maggie. Go see the Wheels of Time Motorcycle Museum (everything runs). Then continue 19 back to Cherokee or catch the Parkway again back. Mike G.

http://pure-gas.org/ Brian, Start there. Dial in on your local. Mike G.

I had the nicest one in the world! I bought, used, the bib and gas cap set from Wally,, the actual one that is on Nancy's Ace High Leather. You know, the brown and black one. Well, when I was in Springfield MO, someone at Hooters snatched it. Yep. Anyhow, I stopped at some stores to come up with an idea,, maybe a small cinch bag,,, who knows? But getting back on the road for a 950 mile ride I came up with it,,,, I cut up a black crew sock, tied a knot, used a cable tie. And now it has a little crew cap! And if someone steals this one,,, I can make one JUST LIKE IT! (with the other) Been on since October! Nice conversation piece. May take a picture! Haha Mike G.

And put on a pretty good "bed and breakfast" for me and Reggie B. And a great family! Awww,, Mike G

I've used 87 in my RSV and RSTD for years. Mostly getting in the 37 MPG range. A friend (actually a few) have been using 93. On a 1600 mile trip last month with one of them, I switched to 93 . My mileage has gone up considerably. By the end of that trip to as much as 46 mpg. But what I liked is the range. Increased many miles per tank. Half tank (by the bars) now and I have gone 100 miles. So, I now use 93 In my RSV. Haven't done the math on cost, but,,, I like my extended range. I'm testing the same on my RSTD which is don't think is tuned as well. Not seeing as much difference as the RSV. So, will sync the RSTD and maybe new plugs. 93 was bad for my Roadstar years ago. I think contributed to "sticky valve". But my more recent experience will keep me using it.

And, they do it in two hours in their office with no outside help. At least a crown has "parts and labor". But, after they do it you are so releived you say "Fank you".

Thanks for this thread. I have a "new" trailer that is hooked up "different" and my RSV is hard wired for Turn/Run Brake LED, and already wired for trailer. But not good with the new trailer. (but the trailer works with my car.) I have Steve K's harness and been emailing with him. Will likely use the ebay (thanks Jcfolly) converter and do a fresh run from the harness. Thanks, Mike G.

Joe, There is a "drive thru" dental place in Florence SC! 24/7 Kidding about drive thru. But actually the place has been there since 1923 and claims to be the original "one day denture clinic". Sexton Dental Clinic. I had a friend who went there and had all teeth pulled (he had a mouth of corn teeth) and drove home with fitted dentures. Affordable too, prices are posted on their site. Worth investigating. Maybe they go past dentures. http://www.sextondental.net/ I suggested it to my wife but she went local and got a $10k disappointment only to find another DR for her uppers. Keep smiling, Mike G

There were several STAR Touring members there (some on Ventures). They ride near the front and escort Gold Star Moms (as passengers). But with a zillion bikes,, kind of gets lost in the crowd.

EDIT: Never mind about the previous edit. Smart Kid! Remember Chief, she may pick your nursing home.

Will it jump start? (can jump from car,,,, car not running. Cables to battery, not thru a battery tender connector.) Edit: Oh, sorry, just saw your part about battery good.

My RSTD was lowered a few years ago. On the front, we did not use the spacers, so I can't answer the question. I just tried to download the Barons PDF but it appears to be "MIA". I read their description. It says you can lower the RSTD front 1 1/2". You cannot,,, if you have stock handlebars. We tried 1 1/2" and when we put it all together the bars hit the air valves,,, big time. You can lower it 1/2",,, maybe 3/4" if you flip the two big washers in the tubes (and hone out one of them). If you have some other bars that do not sit directly above the air valves then you may get more. But, even the 3/4" was well worth it. EDIT: I reread Barons part description. They seem pretty fixed on getting 1 1/2". SO,, maybe the way their adapter fits it pushes the forks down rather than raised in the triple tree?????? That would be nice. Mike G.

Look at this post for a USB below the seat, pretty neat!! http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=77826

Last time I saw that sidecar it was getting off I-20,,,, in SC. It was '50's Corvette red/white. Next time I see it, is should be two tone blue to match it's new host, 2011 RSV. And he will have a matching trailer. It might have been a comment I made about looking like the circus come to town. Mike G.