luvmy40

I pretty much finished up the plastic repairs on The Beast today. There's still a couple places that are so bad I'm not sure if I can do anything with them but they aren't in critical areas so they may be left as is. I did have to use quite a few rivets so there will be a paint job in the future but I've never been one to worry about the bling. It may be a long time before it gets painted. For now at least there will be no more rattling or bits flying off as I go down the highway and the side covers don't need screws to hold them on anymore. After the epoxy sets over night, I'll put her back together and snap a pic or two.

emphasis added I checked with Yamaha for new emulsion tubes and was told they are discontinued.

cimmer, That carburettorshop . com parts kit is quite a bargain? I paid close to 3 times that per carb for OEM parts and didn't even get new bowl valve pistons.

Ipleedthe5th, Thanks! I recently opted to pick up a refurbished TCI for my '83(Thanks Mralex!) and it is working great but I wanted to go with the Ignitech just so I could go with the COP conversion when My 35 year old coils finally kick the bucket. I n the past, if my memory serves, The Ignitech could be programed to work with an after market vac sensor in place of the boost but it did come with the sensor. I'm also relieved to hear that the cost is significantly lower than I was expecting.

I'd highly recommend replacing as many of the JIS screws with SS socket head screws as you can. I got mine through Fastenall and have some spares. I think I have enough of the larger mounting bracket screws to do another bank if you want to pay for shipping they are yours.

Ordered new grommets for the side panels and started work on repairing the plastics. I had 2 broken(one completely missing) bullet points and both sides have the bottom fingers busted off. The right side main fairing is broken at the rear where it bolts up to the frame and the lowers are really messed up. A little epoxy(devcon 10010 plastic steel) and some Kydex fabrication should do the trick. I just hope I can get good bonding to the ABS parts. It may take some rivets as well.

I haven't participated in a Bike Rodeo in a long time but I've worn out several clutch sets in slow races and my '84 stroker was king of the dirt drags in White Oaks, NM at the Hun's Run annual Memorial Day shindig a couple years running way back when!

You said you cleaned the carbs, but did you synchronize them? Also when you checked the coils, did you check the caps and wires? The resistors in the plug caps can go bad and the spikes get corroded. Trim back a half inch or so of wire at each end or just replace them. Bulk spark plug wire is cheap. I fought ignition problems when I got my '83. I had 2 bad coils, bad wires and a bad TCI.

In Ohio all private sales are off the books. Federal law states private sales can only happen between residents of the state in which the sale occurs. That goes for hand guns and long guns. All commercial sales must go through an FFL and a form 4473 must be filled out and either called into NICS or the NICS check can be waived if the buyer has an Ohio CCW issued after a specific date(don't remember what date). No waiting period unless NICS delays the transfer. If NICS delays, they have 48 hrs to approve or deny. If NICS does not approve or deny the transfer withing 48 hrs the FFL has the option to go through with the transfer or cancel the transfer. The whole thing about only being able to buy long guns form contiguous states is done. It was part of the 1968 Gun Control Act(GCA) but was amended in 1986 to remove the contiguous state limitations AS LONG AS NEITHER STATE INVOLVED IN THE SALE HAS ANY RESTRICTIONS ON SAID SALE. Your state may still limit long gun transfers to contiguous states or even deny transfers from any other state, but federal law does not.

The dealerships charge the same regardless of whether you ask for V Max or Venture parts. Not sure about Partzilla and the like.

Found it. Damon Ferraiuolo has a DVD that goes over rebuilding these carbs in great detail. He also has a dvd on rebuilding the V Max engine which would be of great value to anyone diving deep into the XVZ engines as well since they are for all intents and purposes the same engine. here's a link to some short clips from the carb video. You have to email Damon at Damon_Ferraiuolo@msn.com to get the dvds. I got both for $20.00 delivered about a year ago.

I am the exact opposite. I logged many,many thousands of miles on HD V Twins before I found my true love in the 80's Yamaha inline and V4, XJ and XVZ bikes. I might be persuaded to try the new Venture V Twin, when I can buy it used and at 1/4 the new MSRP. But that will likely depend on whether or not I have running Gen 1 under my butt or not.

The bowl drains are easily accessible from the side under and behind the diaphragm hat. Mine has never had the vent lines or drain lines installed but I think the drain lines should be sticking out of the two small holes in the side rail between the carbs on both sides. If there are hoses there, they should be your drain lines. the Pucster likes to use the drain lines and a syringe to fill the bowls with Sea Foam or Berrymans B12 and let them soak. Be careful if you go with Berrymans, it's much more aggressive than the Sea Foam. Personally, I'd pull them and do a thorough cleaning and inspection. Make sure to take some pics so putting everything back together is easier. There is a very good set of rebuild videos available. I can't seem to find the link to the guy selling them but someone else will show up that knows shortly I'm sure.

Rafterd, I get ya. I do. I'm an acceleration junkie. I don't really care what the top end is as long as twisting her tail sets me on the back seat and makes me hold my breath. I also like to cruise in comfort. My gen1 Mk1 is as close as I've come so far to getting the best of both of those worlds. It's not quite as responsive as my GSXR was but it is far more comfortable than any other bike I've owned and it jumps quite respectably.

I seem to forget about the "Classifieds" the way you have it set up. Most other forums I am active with have a "Buy Sell or Trade" forum and that is what I tend to look for. I do like that the classified section is separated into specific categories and I like the fact that there is a predetermined time limit to the postings. Is there any way to keep the classified section the way it is but have new postings show in the "what's new" or 'New Posts" lists for subscribers?

The parts are still there but there doesn't seem to be any way to see a parts diagram anymore. I searche for a couple OEM part numbers and found the parts that way. Boats dot com seems to have the same pricing as Partzilla does. How's their shipping costs?

He'll be in our prayers.

The rear brake reservoir really doesn't hold much fluid. I use a a short piece of vacuum line and a funnel to create a larger reservoir for flushing and bleeding the rear system. A vacuum pump and fluid collector makes it a much easier job as well. This one from HF works well and is very affordable. https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore%2Cf%2CEAFeatured+Weight%2Cf%2CSale+Rank%2Cf&q=vacuum+pump

Probably Danners http://www.danner.com/men/military/?sortId=product-family&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7a6swLaK2wIVhsDACh3mOw4OEAAYASAAEgIulfD_BwE

If we followed the manual verbatim as a religion, no one would ever ride further than the corner store. If that far! My buddy and I got our picture in an Easy Rider edition (pic sent in by a reader) from a road trip back in the Eighties. I was PCSing to Germany, he had recently ETSed and I was taking him back to Nashville on my way home to Ohio. We were on a 1984 Harley Davidson FXST with my home built over sized leather saddle bags stuffed to bursting, our bed rolls hung saddle bag style over those, 3 fully packed duffles stacked and strapped to the rear fender and a medic's bag full of tools on the forks. Neither of us were huge at the time, maybe 350lb combined but I guaranty that bike weighed close to 1000 lbs without us and it ran 80mph from Colorado Springs to Nashville without a problem.

In that case, buy Red Wing Boots and add a lace keeper. They may even have a riding boot with lace keepers already. Best quality work boots you can buy, IMHO. ETA: Here you go, One lace up shorty and a more traditional "Biker" boot from Red Wing. http://www.redwingshoes.com/red-wing-shoe/607-red-wing-shoes/607-red-wing-mens-6-inch-boot-black http://www.redwingshoes.com/red-wing-shoe/988-red-wing-shoes/988-red-wing-mens-10-inch-boot-black

I've had a pair of Shift Kickers for about 6 years and they have proven very durable and comfortable. ETA: It looks like these aren't available anymore. It's a shame as they are really nice boots.

Of course this all assuming I am leaking from the slave and not from one of the rubber hydraulic hoses. I'll have to do a deep dive, seek and destroy inspection when the rain clears up to be sure.

Considering I found an OEM rear brake MC rebuild kit, NOS for $30.00 delivered, I'd hoped to have the same luck with the clutch slave kit. I need a new rain suit anyway so I'll probably just order a new slave, the side cover gasket, bolt seal and Frog Toggs from Partzilla to get the free shipping. See Honey, I saved money!

Yeah, Partzilla has the slave cylinder for $84.25. I was hoping to get a rebuild kit rather than a new cylinder, but I want OEM Yamaha parts if possible.