luvmy40

Is there a Genuine Yamaha Clutch Slave Cylinder Rebuild Kit? I can't find a part number for one anywhere. There are several after market kits on amazon and fleabay but no Yamaha kits.

I'm going out Friday. When are you planing to leave? You'll be coming right by me.

Well it sure looked black to me but I suppose it was Granite Gray. It was definitely the TC. The Eluder right next to it must have been "Silver" but looked grey in the show room lights. I'll take pictures next week.

I almost got a test ride on the 2018 SVTC today. I went to the local Yammer dealer to order some parts for the Beast and there was a beautiful Black 2018 SVTC sitting in the parking lot with Georgia tags. I thought I might be meeting one Y'all today! Turns out it was a demo bike and they were sending riders out on it today. I asked if I could sneak a demo in and got a "Let me see what I can do" fo an answer. Sadly, 10 minutes later the rep came back and told me there wsn't much chance of getting a ride today but I could get on the list for the next demo which may be next Saturday. They'll call me Thursday and let me know if they have the demo bike again next weekend. They had a Black TC and a Grey Eluder on the show room floor. I'm kind of glad that I didn't get to ride today as I am already in love with the new model just from seeing it and I certainly don't have an extra $25k to spend on anything, much less another bike!

Freebird's upcoming maintenance day will be my first chance to meet some of the people I've been getting to know here and I'd like to ask a simple, but important question. Is there anything, specifically or generally that I should bring? I plan on bringing all of my specialty tools and a small set of sockets wrenches and sundry tools. Over an above my rolling emergency repair kit. Really anything that should be needed for most any maintenance task except for jacks, dollies and other "shop" equipment. Is it customary to bring a gift for the host? I am assuming there will be local sources of victuals so I don't plan on packing food, but should I bring a hibachi or camp stove? My usual road trip load out is just a pup tent and bed roll. I count on having a bbq grill available at a camp site or perusing the local dinning establishments. I will be riding and do not pull a trailer so I'm limited to what I can pack on the Beast.

The seal was installed backwards the first time around. I know I checked it but, backwards it was! I did not "hone" the cylinder as I don't have a hone that small. I did clean it thoroughly with brake fluid and a scotch bright pad and inspect it for damage. It's all back together correctly and bled out with no leaks. The beast stops as well as it rolls now. I used a vac pump and fluid trap to bleed. I do think I've still got a bit of air trapped at that high point on the linked calipers metering valve but the pedal is firm enough and the braking power is as good as it has ever been(not bad) so it can wait until I have to take the fairing off for something else.

Ah, the best laid plans of mice and men soon will go awry. My newly rebuilt rear MC is leaking brake fluid from the piston. I had a devil of time getting the new seal on the new piston. I must have torn it somehow. Back off she comes!

It's a surprise to find how one can have such a real emotional bond with someone you've never met. I was devastated by this news. I would have been proud to call Dan Friend had I earned that right. I do consider him a brother in the wind. R.I.P. Brother Dan His family will be in my prayers.

The 3M brand weather strip adhesive I tried di not hold for long. The first time it was warmed by the sun under the cover it loosened up. So far the Gorilla Glue Gel super glue is working well.

I received a couple of the items I bid on. One is a small portable LED lit picture studio. It is exactly as described, exactly what I anticipated and at $7.00 delivered, fairly priced. The other is a "Night Vision" monocular. Advertised as 16x52 with adjustable zoom and "focus"(parallax). I doubt the actual magnification is 4x and the focus and zoom do absolutely nothing. The glass so poor quality, the entire field of view is distorted. Oh, yeah, It has absolutely no "night vision" capability. The good news is I received a refund for the purchase price and shipping instantly when I requested to return it as defective. The seller even let me keep it for a paper weight.

So, I have a couple cheap and, hopefully durable spare head light bulbs to keep in the fairing storage for emergencies. Lesson learned. Cheap LED head lights work, kind of. The dim is fairly bright and a nice crisp white light. The bright is darn near indistinguishable from the dim. I think they have a little more side spill than the incandescent bulbs but they are certainly not brighter and have much less throw. Like I said, I'll stash these in the fairing and go back to a Silver Star Ultra incandescent.

What a nightmare getting that little tiny hose made! None of the shops that used to make brake hoses do anymore. There were three hydraulics shops and two brake shops within rock throwing distance of me that made brake hoses all the time, 15 years ago(the last time I needed to have a brake hose made). The brake shops are both gone and none of the hydraulic shops make anything for DOT 3 systems at all now. I wound up getting a 7" SS braided line from Drag Specialties, a 10mm banjo fitting from the same supplier and a brass flare fitting from AZ. I had to cut the original flare nut off and re flare with a 3/8"x24 nut to match the flare adapter from AZ as we did not have a 10mmx1.0 flare female to 3/8"x24 male adapter. It's all back together now and just waiting for me to eat lunch and go bleed the system. More fun for me!

The good news is my master cylinder is now rebuilt. The bad news is I found that at least part of my brake problem was the short hose that connects to the steel line running to the front end is badly in need of replacement and will have to be fabricated as it is not available anywhere I could find.

So, I finally found the right pair of bent nose needle nosed pliers, got the wife to hold the flashlight, bit my tongue just right and managed to get that pesky cotter pin out and removed the clevis pin from the brake actuator rod! YAY ME! Then I pulled the rear brake line, removed the MC mounting bolts and lifted the MC straight up off the actuating rod. Leaving the rod right it was. That pin never needed to come out!

Rebuilt the rear brake master cylinder and found a hose that needs replaced. The short hose that connects the MC to the steel line that runs to the front end. I'll have to have one made as it is not available through Yamaha or any of the usual suspects. Also wondering, while enjoying 3 fingers of Laphroig on the rocks if the Old Pucster was having a little fun with the new guy:rasberry: That cotter pin and clevis did not need to come off the brake lever. I finally got it all off and when I pulled the MC out the rod and clevis stayed right where they were! The MC just lifted up of the actuator rod. Another lesson learned the hard way!

I ordered a different set, still on Ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/CREE-COB-H4-HB2-9003-1080W-162000LM-LED-Headlight-Kit-Hi-Lo-Power-Bulbs-6000K/272321333014?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 The numbers/ratings seem to be cut and pasted between all the lower priced LED conversion lamps, so I went with the one that says it uses 2 of three chips for low beam and all three for high beam with the top chip cutting out for the lows. It makes sense to me but I'm not a lighting experts so I could be wrong. Even if they're junk, I'm only out 20 bucks and I'll have learned another cheap lesson. Next question is do I use electrical tape or split the dash to take care of the warning lights?

once I get that sucker out of there, it's going back in with the cotter pin to the outside!

Ill let you know. This is the first time I've used it.

Congratulations! I still haven't seen the TC first hand. Wave as you go through Youngstown, OH on the turn pike.

Sprayed the interior of my trunk with Flex Seal. I've been trying to figure out where it's leaking but have had no luck pin pointing it, so I just sprayed the entire thing. Hopefully that caught the leak.

Has anybody tried these LEDs? https://www.ebay.com/itm/323174362227 They seem too good to be true, so... I've never felt the need for a brighter headlight but my head light bulb shattered and the fuse blew at 11:00 pm and left me stranded. I had fuses but no spare headlamp. It got thinking that LED would be better just for the longevity and being able to keep a spare onboard without worrying about it getting broken.

I don't see any way to get a hold of it with anything. I tried needle nose pliers and a couple different hook tools. I can't even see it without an inspection mirror and a flashlight. How tough is it to get the return spring back in place if I remove the pedal and push the pivot shaft through to pull the entire assembly off?

The factory service manual is useless for this. It basically says "Remove mounting bolts, disconnect brake rod and remove master cylinder". Am I going to have to disassemble the entire brake pedal assembly and remove the pedal shaft with the MC?

Why in Hell would anyone install the clevis pin on the rear brake master cylinder with the cotter pin to the inside??!!! Is there a trick or a special tool to get that cotter pin out! I tried a pair of bent needle nose pliers. That ain't happening! I'll see if a have a hook tool I can get around the back, but I'm not holding my breath.

The grips are typically installed with some kind of adhesive. Kuryakyn sends a cyanoacrylate type glue. I'm fighting a loose grip right now too. The old stock ISO grips I got from ebay had the factory supplied glue, but the tubes were dryed rock solid. I tried pure silicone adhesive but that just peeled away with little resistance. Then I tried 3M automotive weather strip adhesive and it appeared to work but has since loosened up. I'm going to pull it, clean it up and try Gorilla's cyanoacrylate gel.