Flyinfool

Dreamer........

Just a shot in the dark. Try calling a few locksmiths. I had a friend lost his car keys and a locksmith was able to pick the ignition and then make a new key from that. His other keys at home still fit so he did not change the lock. Start calling a few dealerships to see if you can find one that will help or at least confirm that it can be done. Then you will know for sure if the local dealer just does not want you as a customer.

OUCH!!! Well when you start back in make sure the heads of all your hammers are wrapped in a thick layer of foam rubber, for safety of course. You do know the rules, we NEED pics of you all bandaged up like that....... Don't make us sick the on you.

Such a lovely pic when you opened the garage door. There is NO state in the USA that is safe from SNOW. I like SNOW, a LOT.

Yup, lots of methane comes out the tailpipe.

SO what happened to talking about cars and engineering and trying to guess the future? This is not political, It has been signed into law, like it or not, agree or disagree, it already happened. My worry is that what happens in CA often starts to spread to other areas, and manufacturers often just make everything CA compliant so they do not have to make CA compliant products and the rest of the country products. So we all end up stuck with CA products good or bad. CA is to big of a market for any manufacturer to ignore. I get overdosed on politics anytime I am so foolish as to turn on a radio or the TV.

Sad to hear. I only met him the one time when WI MD was held at @eagleeye home, but it is still like loosing a good friend.

That is a good question. Most everything you buy has a warning on it that if you use it in CA you will die of a terrible disease. That and earth quakes would chase me out. I was paranoid when I had to visit CA for a week on company business.

China don't seem to mid the mess, that is where all the lithium batteries come from anyhow, they are to toxic to manufacture anywhere else in the world.

It was on the news tonight that California Gov just signed a law that outlaws the sale of new gasoline powerd cars by 2035. This in a state that is so short of electricity that they already have rolling brownouts. Am I the only one that sees anything wrong with this picture?

Free Rum Balls to help loosen things up.......

Yes we need warm bodies....... Mama you are always wonderfully different.

With your meter, the exact reading of0.8 ohms is hard for inexpensive meters to do accuratly. It is more important that all 3 readings are the same or at least very close to the same. Simple test with the meter. with the meter set at the lowest ohms setting, touch the leads together. You will likely get a number shows up, when you use the meter you will have to subtract this number from every reading you take to get closer to a real number. also when the leads are not touching anything you should not be showing any reading. If you are getting a reading with the leads not connected to anything you may have a bad meter that will not work for this job. If you meter is working correctly and If in your test from a stator lead to ground with the meter on the highest scale, any reading is an indication of a stator on the way out.

If you contact @skydoc_17 and buy the gaskets from him, he has a shim kit that he loans out and it has the tool in it.

The stator puts out 3 phase power it is common to loose one leg and be with OK voltage but weak on amps. OK you have already addressed the battery. Here is a step by step guide for testing the stator and Rectifier. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?81297-Testing-for-a-Battery-not-Charging

To find a draw testing for voltage is useless, with pos battery cable connected and neg battery disconnected you SHOULD see battery voltave from neg battery to neg cable. That is a good thing. You need to test for AMPS, that will tell you what the draw is. DO the same test but set the meter up to measure Amps. It should be a very small number. If you are not sure how to do this then use a test light with an incandescent bulb Not a LED tester. It the light bulb lights then you have a draw. To find it pull one fuse at a time till the light goes out. Dont forget there is a second fuse box in front of the battery. also pull fuses from any added accessories.

Have you found this wiring diagram? It is easier to follow that the one in the service manual. There are a lot of things it could be. From the wonderful look of your previous build I am assuming that you have a clue what you are doing. SO for now I am sticking to things that are different fom most other bike engines. Are you using the starting circuit cutoff relay assembly? It sends a bunch of signals to the ignition box to tell it that it is OK to spark. You could take it out of the circuit but that would need a bunch of jumpering and isolating of things, effectively building another external one from scratch. Do You have the pickup coil down by the stator connected properly? That is the crank position sensor to time the spark. There are some of the safety circuits that must be jumpered to bypass and others that must be disconnected to bypass. I am more familiar with the 1st gen electrical but your 2nd gen is very similar.

@SilveradoCA, There are several ways that planes of what you describe are powered, it could be a forward mounted engine, it could be a rear facing engine with a pusher prop, Some engines can be changed to run in the opposite direction mounted facing backwards and a standard prop spinning backwards will push. I got started in all this nonsense about 52 years ago.

I remember that game well from back when I was running a forum. At that time it was mostly porn spam. ALL kinds of ways to try to trick you into going to their porn sites. I can really appreciate what you are doing for us Don, and I sincerely thank you for it.

Most diagnostic system will tell you the module that is causing the problem, So you replace it and find the problem is still there, That is when you have to ditch the puters and bring in an old guy that has a clue to find the real problem. Or worse yet the bad module was only a symptom of the real problem, and now you have 2 burned out modules. Again bring in the old guy. I had a bad wire deep in the wire harness, it was a 10 AWG wire that was not used with my option package, it just ended in the middle of the wire harness, BUT it was fused at 40A. With age the insulation shrunk a bit and left strands exposed and they managed to work their way through the insulation of some of the neighboring wires and cause all kinds of shorts that were enough to melt tint 20 ga wires but not enough to pop the 40A fuse. as those wires melted they then contacted other neighbors in the harness and it got real ugly. There were a bunch of modules that were destroyed. Had I just replaced any one of them the new one would have been instantly destroyed. It took me 2 weeks working full time and a lot of $$$ in parts to track and repair all the wires and burnt out modules and get everything back working. This used a combination of both incandescent and LED test lights, both incandescent and LED continuity testers, and a good meter to figure out what was all going on.

Or was it real and now the teller is $18K richer?

I love it when it is an easy fix.

This post was originally written for a Hobby Machist forum so has more maching detail but we do have some gear heads that like that stuff so I left it intact. OK it has been a while since I posted. Not much happening with COVID doing its thing. But I did get all of the TI parts made. It was a learning experience. The only parts that are not TI are the sheet metal band (321 Stainless) and the black screw that is mounting the band (Steel). All of the small parts came out of that initial bar of 16mm, Grade 2, I bought. The washer and the flat strap are out of a small piece of 2mm thick sheet, grade 5. I did a lot of cleaning up swarf along the way, putting small batches in separate bags so as to not risk anything exciting. It is now all safely at the dump and burried. Most of the tools were HSS with a few brazed carbide lathe tools that were resharpened and diamond honed. The finned part I finally got right on the 4th try. Most of the issue was in order of operations, I got to a point and then realized I could not hold the part for the next OP. The final order that worked was with the full bar in the lathe, turn the top taper and cut the grooves for the fins with a 1/16 parting blade. The fins are also 1/16 thick. Then over to the mill to cut the .081 wide slot in the top for the 2 thicknesses of the band to drop into. Then spot drill and drill the clearance hole for the 4mm screw half way thru the part. Tap drill thru for the 4mm screw. Using an end mill, c'bore to hide the head of the 4mm hex socket head cap screw. Back to the lathe, turn the taper on the bottom of the part and part off to a bit over length. Turn the part around and back in the chuck to face off to length, drill and tap the bottom mounting hole. Back to the mill again to make the final .010 wide cut to the bottom of the .081 slot to free the "nut" part. Finally tap the nut for the 4mm screw. I can make anything more dificult. The 1/4 20 threaded rod was made on the lathe, by facing then center drill and add a lice center to support the end. Then turn down 5 inches of the 16mm rod to .245. with a LOT of spring passes with a freshly sharpened cutter to get the whole length the same diameter. (I sure wish I had a follower rest) Due to the center I could not turn it down all the way to the right end. I then single pointed the thread leaving some unthreaded at both ends. Again a lot of spring passes with a very sharp bit. I then parted off the end with the center, then the other end. I slid it into a piece of thin wall aluminum tube to chuck it up to face and chamfer both ends. The nuts were made by milling the hex onto the end of the bar first, long enough for both nuts. Then the whole bar into the lathe to drill and tap, and turn the little shoulder, and part off twice. Then the nut went back in the chuck to face and chamfer the other side. I used a piece of steel that had a 90° c'sink in the end and a hammer to slightly close the top of the nut to make it self locking and able to still handle high heat. These are the glorified washers that will go on the top and bottom of the wing, the long one is also the attach point for the catapult release. These were made out a 2mm x 100mm x 100mm sheet of grade 5 TI. First I made the round one, on the drill press I used a 1.25 dia hole saw to rough it out. Worked great since I needed a 1/4 dia hole in the center anyhow. I then took a chunk of scrap in the lathe and drilled and tapped 1/4-20, I used this as a mandrel to hold the disc for truing the od to final size and putting on the chamfer, one side only. Done easy. For the oval part I bandsawed out the blank, drilled the 2 holes and the rest was done on the belt sander. The outside shape is not at all important so I did not bother to set it up on the rotary table to make the ends perfect, and they are not, but it goes on the bottom of the wing so no one will ever see it. This is the front motor mount. With the bar mounted horizontal in the mill, I milled the top flat, then side milled the 2 short sides, and the top (side near the thru hole) then drilled the through hole. then put the corner radius on 2 of the edges. Then to the band saw and cut it off a bit long. Back to the mill, layed it flat on parallels with the round side up and milled the final side and put in the final 2 corner radii. Then stood it up to finish miil the bottom to final length, and drill and tap #10/32 thru to the cross hole. The threads are just a bit short as I ran out of tap length but it will be fine. I am now deep into building the test stand, With some luck It will be done by the end of next week and I can see if I can actually get this monster to light up. I will try to get some video of this. It may be exciting, I have never set up or run any kind of pulse jet before, I am betting I will start some fires before I get it working right and figure out the correct fuel flow rate.

It has been about 30 years since I played with a TIG. I bet I could make some real ugly welds to. That brings back memories from many years ago. I had a car trailer that had C channels for the tires to ride in. the metal was so smooth that if the tires were wet at all there was no way to drive up on the trailer. SO I was going to lay some beads of weld across for extra traction. But try as I might I could not lay down an ugly rough high traction weld. So I gave the welder to my brother who has never tried to weld anything in his life. He laid down a bunch of perfect chicken poop beads and my tires never slipped again. We still laugh about that one.

Well I hope it is fixed and stays fixed.:fingers-crossed-emo:fingers-crossed-emo