Flyinfool

To me all vehicles have about the same resale value, around $25 a ton at the scrap yard, When I am done with one that is where it is usually headed.

Here is a diagram of the rear wheel assy can you tell us which part he needs? https://www.partshark.com/oemparts/a/yam/500441d4f8700209bc78e9f8/rear-wheel

Is it by chance a standard bearing that can be sourced locally. If some one knows the size it may be able to get tracked down.

OK, even more scarry, yesterday I was thinking about some new toys, I have never searched for them, never looked at them in any store, never communicated the idea verbally or electronically to anyone that I was thinking of it, it is completely unrelated to anything I have ever done before. But this morning there were 3 adds already for that item. So now they are reading my mind???? Or have they got this whole thing down so good that they can predict what I am going to be thinking about before I even think about it? My mind is a very warped thing, for some puter algorithm to have it figured out is a really scary thing.

Maybe a valve cover leak? the oil would find the lowest point, the spark plug hole.

OK not what my guess was, I was guess to prevent the wind from knocking it over. Man if I had to child proof my whole property I would be in trouble.

Why do you want to limit statues Puc?

Just fer you Puc.

Funny you should state it like that, If you hang the bike from a hoist you can make the horizontal filter into a vertical filter so that you can prefill it.........

If you put in the progressive springs with a 1 inch spacer, many people find that they need NO air pressure. This way you fix the soggy springs and the air leak all in one step.

Messy option is to pull the drain plug and let a bit out then stick the plug back in quick before too much comes out. If it is a small amount that needs to be removed, an old turkey baster will work, Not your wife's favorite one..........

Yup we had a great time, even with poofy Puc.........

Well at least you are saving money. I dont know what to do for my next truck, no one make a truck like my current truck or my last 3. I may have to shop for the rare good deal on a great used old truck.

One thing to watch with a truck like that. There are some very heavy accessories on that truck. I have a 1500 EX cab 4x4 long box with a similar extra high cap. With me the wife and a full tank of gas and a small tool box in the back it is already at max GVWR. My similar fiberglass cap is 500 lbs according to the cap dealer. That big chrome cow catcher on the front is not real light weight either. In my case I knew this going in, I carry big things not heavy things so it is not an issue for me.

Glad it is running and starting on command again. For a while I keep something with you to jump the solenoid, just in case.

When you said that with a no start you still measured 12V from one side of the solenoid to the other, that is pointing toward a bad solenoid. The other tests were to eliminate the possibility of a bad starter, without having to remove it to test.

Yep get a charger on that battery. A fully charged battery should read 12.6V. OK, I have a hunch where thi gremlin is hiding. Your test results are making sense. Next test, connect the voltmeter neg to the battery side of the solenoid and the pos voltmeter to the terminal on the starter motor. Try till you get a no start. When when in no start and the start button is pressed. does the voltmeter show near 12V? Next weird test, Connect the pos voltmeter lead to the terminal on the starter and the neg voltmeter lead to the battery negative terminal. When in no start condition, is there voltage? One more weird one, Connect the Neg voltmeter lead to battery NEg and the pos voltmeter lead to the actual starter housing. IN start or no start, do you see voltage?

I hate intermittent electrical problems, they are the hardest to find. First, you would not be the first person to get a new bad part. Are you sure that the click you are hearing is the solenoid? there are several relay that will click when you press the start button. A continuity check is not a valid test of a high power relay contacts. It is easy to show continuity but it can not carry the amps. As a test, try disconnecting the starter side cable, connect your voltmeter to battery neg and to the starter side of the solenoid. Press start button and hold it thru this test. Should show 12V at starter terminal. Now watch the voltage and touch the starter cable to the Starter side terminal, it should crank and it should still show 12V. You may have to try this a bunch of times since it is intermittent. The next test is to connect the volt meter from one side of the coil to the other, and reconnect the starter cable. Try the start button until you get a no start. Does the voltmeter show any voltage when you get a no start? IF it shows voltage when trying to start then the issue is more likely the starter.

Yup, tighten to that point and back off 1/4 turn, perfect.

Carl is correct, If you are relying on arm strength you are doing it wrong. That was the mistake I was making at the beginning that prevented me from getting it up. It also helps to NOT have the front of your foot on the stand but closer to just below the ankle so that the full power of your leg can do the heavy work.

While you have the elbow off. You will likely also have the crash guard off. Straighten out the bent tab that hit the elbow. Then take a grinder to it to remove some of the corner that hit the elbow. Squirt some paint on so the ground area wont rust (Iused the "chrome" paint from the hardware store). This will help to prevent the elbow damage the next time it takes a nap on the right side.

While working on the technique, drive the rear wheel of on a piece of wood. Start with 1 inch and go thinner as you get better at it. When I bought my 88 I asked about getting such a heavy bike up on the center stand. The 5 foot nuttin 130lb salesman then proceeded to pop it up on the center stand with no problem. I'm 6'1" 250 lbs and stronger than most and could not do it at first. Once I learned the technique it was no problem.

1st Gens never stop halfway down, when they take a nap they lay all the way down. Most likely damage is to the fairing and as mentioned the water pump elbow if it fell on the right side. The crack in the elbow can be very tiny and hard to see but still enough to be an intermittent leak.

I was there. Really I was. At least I think I was........

It always helps us to know what bike you have. The cam timing on these bikes is not adjustable, other than by full tooth increments on the cam chain sprocket. An adjustment in either direction will make for very poor running and possible interference between the valves and piston. There is a timing mark on the crank and a timing mark on each cam that must be lined up. there is a separate set of marks and separate chain for the front and rear set of cylinders. As for diagrams, you can find those in the service manual which is located in the library on this site. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?12-Technical-Library-Read-Only