Flyinfool

1st Gens never stop halfway down, when they take a nap they lay all the way down. Most likely damage is to the fairing and as mentioned the water pump elbow if it fell on the right side. The crack in the elbow can be very tiny and hard to see but still enough to be an intermittent leak.

I was there. Really I was. At least I think I was........

I have a 3D printer but I do not have a 2nd gen to measure to design the part that you need. If you can design it and it fits on my printer, then I can print it. My printer has a build volume of 300mm x 300mm x 300mm. It might have to be designed in 2 pieces. The other option is to get a chunk of pink (or blue) foam insulation board from the local building supply store and carve out what you need. Then lay some glass cloth up on it and you can make a nice fiber-glass or carbon fiber cover to put in there that will be a lot stronger than a 3D printed part. There are lots of u-tube vids on how to do this.

It always helps us to know what bike you have. The cam timing on these bikes is not adjustable, other than by full tooth increments on the cam chain sprocket. An adjustment in either direction will make for very poor running and possible interference between the valves and piston. There is a timing mark on the crank and a timing mark on each cam that must be lined up. there is a separate set of marks and separate chain for the front and rear set of cylinders. As for diagrams, you can find those in the service manual which is located in the library on this site. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?12-Technical-Library-Read-Only

Just wanted to say welcome back. I can not help with the mufflers, I like quiet.

It is under warranty, I would call the dealer that you cot it from and see what they say. Do you have a bunch of stuff in the trunk? on other bikes it has been known to happen where some trunk contents got tangled and jammed the latch.

WOW, 1.75 MILLION jack stand sets is gonna put a crimp in the budget. I had looked at getting their 6T a number of times but never managed to pull the trigger. My home made stands are way stronger than the HF or any other commercial stand I have seen.

That free one day shipping only means that if ordered by 3 they will ship it out within one day, not that it will arrive in one day.

A dry orange stain could be a gas leak, It may indicate carb issues, Carb issues are common IF the bike has not run in a long while. either way it does require further investigation. Just cuz tires look new, check the date code on the tire, even a new looking tire can be old enough to need replacing, 7 years old should be replaced regardless of how good they look.

So Puc, is this just some old pics from 10 years ago, or some new project and you don't know how to set the date in your camera?

Each type of meter has its place, When you are broke down you use what you got. The technique for the different testers require different approaches. IF you understand how the digital meter works it is just as useful as a test light or an analog. It is all in the process.

First disconnect all capacitors, there could be more than one. Then disconnect the motor rom all other wiring so that you are only checking the motor. If it is shorted to ground it is probably toast. If it is showing as open Make sure you are not checking thru the capacitor or any other switch.

Did you just your own thread???

Pretty simple, Connect a voltmeter from the starter side of the solenoid to the neg battery terminal and hit the start button. If there is 12V then the solenoid is working and the problem is elsewhere. Also put your finger on the body of the solenoid you should be able to feel the "click". to be sure that the click you are hearing is not a relay somewhere else.

Sometimes it is better to be lucky than just good.

I was able to come up with one possible scenario where a critter MIGHT be able to do internal compressor damage. The critter would have to chew off one of the hot leads including chewing thru the copper (this part is unlikely, most critters do not chew metal) the hot side of that wire would have to stay clear of all grounds, and the compressor side would have to be connected to a ground. This would let the motor in the compressor try to run at 110V which would burn up the motor. This would have been one talented critter.

The 2nd gen gaskets will fit fine on the 1st gens. The second gen gaskets have a little more width to give you something to grab during installation. The extra width also makes them a bit less floppy so they are easier to get in position.

Oh Yea, You mentioned that you have a window job for a while. Do the math before you spend thousands on a new central unit. I did the math and it is way cheaper to run 2 window units to cool the house that it would be to do the central air. It was cheaper at both ends, both daily operating and initial purchase and installation costs. Just sumptin else to think about.

OK Unc, I can see that with the cap in series with one of the legs. That will also explain pucs open reading when checking for continuity. An ohm meter uses DC to check resistance, and a cap will block DC current flow hence the open that Puc is seeing. Puc you would have to measure for continuity by checking just the motor leads without the cap if it is in a place where you can get to the connections to bypass it. Check to see if when the thermostat calls for cool is there 220VAC at the 2 motor wires. If not then the issue is elsewhere and needs to be tracked. Since the cap is in series there is also a possibility that the cap is bad. I aint gived up on ya yet Puc, let us know when you are done bailing.

I am not one to throw money at a problem. I would start with a voltmeter and see if it really is the solenoid that is the problem. Then fix whatever you find the problem to be.

Looking from a different perspective, The engineer in me always seems to sneak out, I am trying to visualize the failure analysis. I am trying to visualize what connection the mouse could have made on the outside of the compressor that would burn it up inside?????? The compressor has 3 wires 2 hots and a ground. If the mouse connected either hot to ground it should have blown a fuse or circuit breaker and done no internal damage to the compressor, same if mousy connected the 2 hots, popped breaker and or fuse. BE CAREFUL THIS IS 220vac POWER AND IT CAN DO BAD THINGS TO YOUR TUNNER AND SOFT PARTS CONNECTED TO THE TUNNER) Start by removing the shorted wires so as to do no further damage. Check the whole system for power starting at the compressor and working back to the breaker panel in the basement. There may be more that one protection device in more than one place in the system. First if the whole unit is wired correctly on the inside, over winter there would be no power at the compressor unless it was cycling on and off all winter???? OR did it burn up when you flipped it on for the first time this spring? The compressor itself is hermetically sealed so any internal damage is not realistically repairable. I am wondering if it just that the mouse eating the wires caused an short external to the compressor and that may can taken out a contactor or other controls. Those should be easy to replace if you can find them. You know a little about how electricity works so I would stick my nose a little farther in there to see if you can get more specific on the exact failure mode. Lately I have seen too many service people that do not repair anything, they are replacers. OK I'll go back to my corner now.........

Yamaha stopped making the Standard in 88. I looked at a bunch of royals and standards when I was looking. I was in the same boat as you are, I knew almost nothing about these bikes. I ended up getting an 88 standard. In retrospect I am glad I got the Std instead of the royal. As mentioned the difference is in the CB (which I never desired to use anyhow) No CLASS system, I read constant posts about issues with the CLASS system, and it is no big deal to set the pressure using the Shrader valves, It just takes a few seconds longer with a small hand pump. Mine came with a Kenwood automotive Stereo installed in the left side of the fairing and some aftermarket speakers installed in the stock locations. It was quite adequate for my needs. Of course all of the "Royal" badging is not there. Of course there is a lot of possibilities to make changes to make it your own. Check out this area for known issues and specific areas to look at to possibly help lower the purchase price. Many of these issues are easily fixed, but use them in your negotiations. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?86-Known-Problems-and-things-to-look-for

Welcome to the nut house......... It would help a lot if we knew what bike you are looking to update.... This is good info to add to your signature and by your name, so that with every question you post the info will be there.

The article was written on April 1st and non of the links in the article for more info work. And they are very specific saying this is not yet in effect but will go into effect at some future date which of course will never come. This is good boiler plat to protect them from people getting busted for no helmet carrying around a copy of the article.

If you are towing after being specifically told not to, odds are that with a trailer you will be over the GVWR, the dealer/Yamaha would have a good case to not cover any issue related to exceeding the GVWR. This could include things like engine, drive line, brakes, suspension. But would not affect other things like entertainment system, computers, bodywork. All they have to do is to prove that you exceeded the ratings and that specific repair may not be covered. The act simply says that can not void the whole warranty. By putting on a hitch, are the point where it is mounted really designed for the loads that the trailer will impart on them? If you are 2 up plus some luggage plus tongue weight, are you sill under the max weight on the rear tire, how about the rear suspension? The brakes were designed to safely stop the max recommended weight of the bike, Will you now overheat the brakes stopping the added trailer weight. There is no bike manufacturer that I know of that does NOT recommend AGAINST towing a trailer available in the USA. This may be more for liability reasons than bike capability reasons. The USA has way to many lawyers. On the car I drive the owners manual says no towing, BUT the manufacturer makes a hitch that fits the car and in every other country in the world the owners manual has a section on proper towing and max towing loads and all that good stuff. Again I am sure the difference is just the Lawyer population in this country. See if you can find owners manuals for other countries and see if any of them have towing info. If you are comfortable with all of this, then go for it. I did all the research and in the end had no problem slapping a hitch on my 88 Venture and dragging a 400 lb trailer around and exceeding all of the Yamaha warnings. A lot of people do it.