syscrusher

Good thinking! For the clutch at least. You won't have a better opportunity.

I wish I was coming back there again soon but it's expensive to get there. Beautiful country though. I saw it by car but would love to see it by motorbike. I wanted to format the info below a little but the software fought me at every step. Arrive and Drive Auckland, NZ to: Date Place to Stay Miles Time ---- ------------- ----- ---- Sun Dec 21 Coromandel 116 2:42 Mon Dec 22 Whakatane 169 3:56 Tue Dec 23 Taupo 128 2:55 Wed Dec 24 Ohakune under 100 Thu Dec 25 Wellington 203 4:53 Interislander Ferry check in 740am Fri Dec 26 Nelson 165 2:48 + 3:20 Sat Dec 27 Pohara under 100 Sun Dec 28 Punakaiki > 300 6 hrs+ Mon Dec 29 Fox Glacier 139 3:14 Tue Dec 30 Wanaka 177 4:02 Wed Dec 31 Dunedin 215 4:50 Thu Jan 01 Te Anau 185 4:19 Fri Jan 02 Te Anau N/A Doubtful Sound 10am call 0800 107 505 at 9am - check weather Milford Sound 3pm leaving Milford 108 miles pd. 0800 656501 Sat Jan 03 Queenstown 108 2:32 Sun Jan 04 Fly back to Omaha very, very, many miles and minutes ---- ---- 2105 49:31

That's a fast turn-around from China. Please let us know if they work well?

I saw the new year 2010 come in at the Octagon in Dunedin. I was also in Wanaka, Te Anau, Queenstown, Moeraki, etc. all in or around the Central Otapo area. Where did you trailer from to get there?

This is probably your best overview tour of the park and surrounds. Minimum of 3 days but I would stretch it to 4. Since you'll be coming at things from Castlegar you may want to consider the Lolo Canyon ride on Hwy 12 between Lewiston, ID and Missoula, MT. It'll take an afternoon but it's one of those winding sweepers that are so much fun. Fill with gas before you go and again at the midway station just to be safe. Lolo Canyon Ride

Just a few notes. The delinked setup is cheaper AND better. Get two of the 44 1/4" front lines and connect them both to the master with a double banjo and a copper washer between every pair of components (bolt & banjo, 2 banjos, banjo & master). One line to each front caliper. At the same time remove the insides of the proportioning valve at the rear brake and seal the front facing valve outlet with a short bolt of 10mm thread (I think it's the 1.25) and copper washer. Later you can replace the rear brake line and the clutch line. If our brake lines are the same as for Vmax then this site is offering a low prices and a free brake line deal. I em,ailed the owner and worked it out with him when I bought mine. I think the rear is Vmax length but he let me buy 46" front lines $113. Check it out! http://www.pashnit.com/product/galfer/galfer_buynow.html#top

Mine is the McGuiver version. Bought it for $85 years ago. Of course when I made plans to trailer a 900lb bike for 1200 miles it needed rebuilding. I always overbuild most things so it took a week or so of my spare time and a couple hundred in lumber and hardware. After keeping it outside for many years I would probably want to at least put another 3/4" sheet of plywood down for the floor. It used to be super lightweight and I could roll it up my driveway easily. Now I've learned to be more accurate with my backing up because trying to push it physically would be a good way to injure myself. I used it to bring my 1993 home in 2013 but I bought 6 bags of mortar mix to counterweight the rear. When transporting a motorcycle the engine weight is ahead of the trailer axle and on the tongue so that's a problem but it's been very good for me. I know, TMI, but you seemed to be slightly interested and I'm somewhat snowed in and bored.

Maybe you need to look for an O-ring that fits the plug cables a little tighter. Put the coil cap on the cable first, then the O-ring, and then the rubber washer. It might provide a better compression fit that way.

You've got to play the percentages. If the center of gravity is 20" from the ground and you can get it 4" closer by compressing the suspension that's 20% less energy tugging against the tie-downs and working against the tire's traction. If I could guarantee you a 20% return on your investment do you think it would be worthwhile? BTW, My trailer has leaf springs.

Diodes can be replaced but must be done before they fail. With pre-1990 the diodes should be replaced just in case. I know nothing more about it.

I've always used the ratchet straps to compress any suspension on the bike. Two reasons here, it lowers the center of gravity for better stability with less possible energy in the direction of toppling the bike. The other reason is that the bike moves completely as one with the trailer and introduces no suspension oscillations that could buck the trailer or worse. If you're trailering a project bike that has no suspension damping the bike could be bouncing all over on weak springs when rough road conditions are encountered. It would be like hauling swinging beef in a semi.

One thing it does that possibly yours also might is to produce a new video for a couple minutes and then start another. The Zeblaze overlaps the content between these files so you don't miss a thing. It makes it easier to pinpoint which file has good stuff, etc. When card is full the oldest file is sacrificed. A 2 minute file uses 194MB. Over 8 hours of operation you're at 46.6GB. 11 hours fills a 64GB card and you're losing your oldest files to make room for new ones (5.8GB/hr). It powers up when I plug in it's USB cable and starts recording. When I unplug the cable it saves the last video file and shuts off. It's not easy to change the memory card, I just connect it as a drive in Windows.

The charging underwater cable was a $10 add-on at the time I bought mine. I really haven't used the Bluetooth connection with the phone much but for people who have their phones mounted on the bike I think it would be handy to see the camera's view at a glance. It has a wide field of view making it good for accident documentation, maybe not as good for zeroing in on landmarks and scenery though. Much smaller than GoPro with a case but not as small as GoPro Hero 4 Session. Has it's own usable screen that GoPro just started offering. It won't make 4K video but the video is very clear. I wish it would do better in low light because it won't capture license plates after dark.

From what I have seen one should not go over about 21psi in the front and I adhere to that. I have progressive springs and I don't expect the forks to not leak some air so I adjust the pressure there periodically. For the rear I keep it around 55 and don't worry about it too much

So what's the trouble after all?

Zeblaze for $100. Doesn't have GPS and that software looks pretty nice for the Contour. The Zeblaze is worth looking at though, waterproof without an outer case so smaller, runs while charging. It includes a wrist remote that controls stills/video and provides status by flashing leds. Good HD captures. With Zeblaze app on your phone you see what it sees and can control it somewhat. Mounting system is compatible with GoPro accessories. I can't find Zeblaze anymore but it's the same as the SooCoo S60.

It's too bad you're in Canada since shipping would probably be super expensive. You could buy R1 calipers off of Ebay for just the price of a rebuild kit and save the time of working on yours. They'll bolt right up to your 1990 and you can buy Double HH pads for use with them. I have a set of crash bars, not pretty but much prettier than yours, but I still have need for them only to determine how to make my own brackets to hold the chin fairing on with my footboards. I was thinking that if you send me your damaged engine guard along with a prepaid label for me to send you mine back you can have mine. LMK?

Here is a good thread to refer to for some wisdom in re-doing the fork slider oil seal if that is what you need to do. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?81910-My-fork-seal-seems-unrepairable-Help! On my 1993 that has the accordion gators it was obvious that the seal was the leaky part. It would not hold air and had a lot of trouble holding oil. The air helped push the oil out but also escaped on it's own. Puc is confused about the schrader valve, your 1990 doesn't have them. It has the CLASS system instead. There will be an air hose connected to disk shaped air manifolds around the top of each fork just beneath the top triple tree. There is a retaining ring in a channel under them. It's possible their seals leak or the hose or fittings leak, maybe. If there is oil on the upper part of your chrome fork tube I would look at the slider oil seal. Maybe soap it up around those and then pump the CLASS up to no more than 21 PSI in the front, if CLASS works? I reworked the forks 4 times before getting smart and replacing fork bushings too. I also put in a set of the pre 1990 dust seals above my oil seals. 1990 and later had the gators and not the dust seals. I use both. Suspenders and a belt approach. There is a good photographic reference in the "Tech Library" for replacing fork seals without removing entire forks from triple trees, much easier. Read my thread and then read the tech library account after.

A little late with this but, I stand corrected. In internet forum articles that I had read people had blamed dielectric grease for their electrical troubles. The article linked does well to explain when and when not to use it and is very helpful. Thanks!

Nice. I just got a couple rear speakers and so I'll have to use the PRV amp for those but I think I'll leave the fronts controlled by the bike amp. It'll probably be really weird though and I'll end up giving up the old amp and just control both with the PRV.

The PRV will seek and scan but I don't use that much. I like it much better after installing the software update to cause bluetooth re-connection automatically. I will be adding power interruption to the toggle switch so that I can reset it. Sometimes it just won't power on when I start the bike. When that happens I'll interupt it's power, which usually makes it work again. It sucks to shut off the bike for that purpose though.

It's something like this basically, but if I were buying I'd search for a smaller ballast. http://www.amazon.com/Kensun-HID-Xenon-Replacement-Bulbs/dp/B00F3I9HJY/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1449306050&sr=1-6&keywords=h4+hid%2Fhalogen

A six pack is pretty cheap. I'd bring you one if I was going to use your tools......

That grease is non-conductive. You may be causing some connectivity problems.

Thanks! I do the best I can with what I have.