syscrusher

Why don't you post us some pics here so we can see if we should encourage you further?

Thanks for the info both of you. It looks like I missed out on the glory days of the Gen 1.

That plate around the right side cover in photo 4, izzit something you bought or did you make it? I want one.

Your assumption about running only either halogen or HID was correct. The one about the HID not being many times brighter in a useful way wasn't though. The 55W HID lights up the road, the ditches, road signs for several miles ahead, etc. When I ride with a group I can use the dimmer high beam, win - win!

You're making the assumption that having the 55w HID in the LO position somehow affects it's brightness. I assure you it does not. It's only maybe slightly less irritating to truckers since it's not aimed at them. On the bike I'm only 5 or so feet in the air, what the hell do I need to see up higher than that? Try a HI/LO type and THEN tell me what you think of it on a country road or dim stretch of Interstate in the middle of the night. Also, remember that this comes with the other advantages that I mentioned earlier that Bi-Xenon does not offer. You do realize that the Bi-Xenon typically just has a "motor" that moves the same HID capsule into a different position to focus the light higher, hence "high" beam. When that capsule goes, you're done dealin' because you ain't got a headlight at all now.

Everything he said but I also want two-way Bluetooth connectivity into the intercom/CB/SoundSystem. This should allow a phone to connect for a music source and for making calls but should ALSO accept connections with Bluetooth headsets that comply to common standards. The tape drive is a complete waste of space and time but having a bank of USB connections for charging and powering devices as well as playing music through the sound system is a good idea. There should be front and rear speakers with an eight or ten inch subwoofer. It should have integrated RAM mounts for cameras and GPS systems. It should have cartridge based forks like the Harleys have so that it can take a drop-in cartridge replacement from Progressive. I'd like to have easy to remove engine covering but it should be designed so that the engine looks good with the covers off, either factory stock or with a chrome (or stainless) dress-up kit. Heel-toe shift option is fine with me but make them out of stainless or chromed steel. The aluminum rubs off on your shoes.

It costs $12 to become a supporting member. For the exposure your listing will get that's a pretty good bargain.

Get what is called a hi/lo type bulb. It has an HID for the low beam and a halogen for the high beam. The low beam is actually brighter than the high beam but this gives you a less bright option for group riding or whenever you need to tone things down. You have two light sources in case one fails. There are no moving parts to fail or adjust and it's far simpler to implement than the linked explanation states. I didn't need to do any splicing, etc. to make mine work. http://www.ebay.com/gds/Difference-Between-Single-Beam-Hi-Low-and-Bi-Xenon-HID-/10000000019653525/g.html

A pair of Channellock pliers has a larger jaw that sort of has an "overbite" on the lower jaw. Use this overbite to squeeze the 'C' clip onto the shaft for the shifter rod.

Drain the bowls, leaving the drain valves open, then attach your clear plastic line 6" or so on the drain lines and then attach a funnel of some kind to that (syringe without plunger, turkey baster...). Pour Sea Foam into the plastic line until it will take no more. This should be filling the float bowl with Sea Foam, if you are holding the top of the plastic line well above the carb. Close the drain valve with the line held high and repeat this with each carb. DO NOT turn on key again. Leave this for from several hours to overnight. When it's time, go ahead and drain each bowl again, closing each drain valve as you go. This should have cleaned or at least loosened deposits around the float valves and bottom of main jet, etc. Let us know how it runs after you complete this step.

That URL is already taken but if someone can demonstrate the off-road prowess of a Venture they may allow us our own section?

I'd say Tippy and Tweeks aren't done with you yet, you're not allowed to leave. Now get your butt back to enjoying life and stop letting goofy kids named "cardiologist something or other" taunt you. BTW: Happy Birthday!

Not only are they not removable without tools in my view they are scarcely removable with tools. I have learned not to stall forward motion with a heavy bike leaned over. I have also learned that if the driveway slopes greatly between the sidewalk and the street you won't be able to put your feet down with the rear wheel on the sidewalk and the front wheel on the street. Or vise-versa. I have learned to be very careful moving a motorcycle while the front brake isn't operable. Don't try making quick turns on gravel, or wet streets, or snow. If you keep up-shifting and gunning it coming out of turns you'll eventually find the point where the rear wheel breaks loose spectacularly. Or the front will wash out first. Dry lakebeds may not be as dry as you think (or hope) they are. When mud is deep enough it will eat your front wheel, both if you're lucky. If you gun it at just the right time going over a two foot bump on a large two-stroke motorcycle it will leap into flight. If you're going to fly around on a motorcycle then ensure that your suspension can handle the landing. I've been riding for 40 years now except for a break of about 15 years during which my two wheel experiences were on bicycles (sometimes going 40mph down a mountain road). I am still learning. I recently learned to be very cautious around delivery drivers of any sort. PS. Why do you think the old guy has a cane?

If you have the time I would recommend getting to "Craters of the Moon" National Monument in Arco, ID and then take 93 North to Kalispell. This is the Lewis and Clark Trail. Craters of the Moon is the site of multiple volcanic eruptions and lava flows. Odd looking landscape. The Salmon River Canyon is supposed to be really nice (friend rode it), and the route climbs over some mountains as well. It would take longer though, expect the mountain crossing to take some time and you have to get to the West side of Yellowstone somehow.

Are we supposed to use a new crush washer with each oil change or are these re-crushable?

I was shocked and amazed by that video. It is common knowledge now how toxic mercury is to people. I remember as a little kid when a thermometer broke and my mother let me put the mercury in a small bowl and watch it spin around when I shook the bowl. I would jab it with my finger and it would amazingly reconstitute into a ball. I'm surprised I didn't try to taste it or something. I may have ingested some just by getting my fingers into it. The bottom line is that if you don't really need mercury then you really don't need mercury. Stay away! I don't want to pile on at all but it just didn't appear to me that anyone was exceptionally harsh about "old school" methods. I learned a lot from reading this thread without judgement. To me that's a good part of what the site is all about, learning from others who may have a different background or experienced situations before. People usually tend to use what they already have, that's working for them. That's fine, but if there may be real issues with those methods then it wouldn't be right to not mention some of the downsides for those of us who are trying to learn about maintaining our bikes. I do have a sync tool that is electronic, digital, and very accurate. I recommend it to anyone who doesn't already have another device but may be looking to acquire one. It's more of a project right now than a product because you have to source the parts and put it together yourself but it's easy to do. Here's a thread about the digital carb sync project.

Maybe this one, there weren't any standout performers in your tire size: http://www.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?width=155%2F&ratio=80&diameter=15

I like the seat and the rest of your bike but I have the 1st gen so the cover won't work on mine. Good luck!

I'm still working on getting a ticket written for the kid. I really don't think there's enough money involved to get a lawyer for but I do wonder if Jimmy Johns is culpable. I'm a little scared about the "Office and Adminstration Fee's" that Cowpuc mentioned too. I'm not too proud to reach out to the local media either but I just think a lawyer will waste time and money. One thing I'm learning though is that it's not just Russian drivers who need dash cams. I'm seriously considering always having one on.

In case anyone is still interested here's an updated picture of my leg (from yesterday). I have had it looked at and I take aspirin and naprosyn to thin my blood and fight inflammation. The big "knotted" part of it is getting a little smaller but it feels like things are tearing in there when I first get up from a chair and walk around. I sent this to some family members with a short explanation "Motorcycles are Dangerous" and the story of it. The grade school aged son of my nephew says he won't eat Jimmy Johns food anymore since it was one of their drivers that caused the wreck! Btw, I took a look and the forks are folded back at the lower triple tree. I don't know yet about the frame. The price for forks, sliders, trees and all on Ebay is somewhere between $170 and $210. Does anyone have a set of nice straight forks they're real tired of shifting from place to place in the shed or garage? Has anyone taken a bike into a shop or somewhere for an estimate after an accident? Do most bike shops do that?

It seems sometimes like there's a lot of that sort of thing going around. A despicable and careless disregard for people on motorcycles. I've witnessed everything from poor and inattentive driving to cagers who appear to be playing "Road Games" and trying to cause an accident.

I do think there's not enough money involved to get a contingency lawyer interested.

I did some checking online and aspirin is very good at making your platelets less sticky so they don't clot. I also found this list of drugs that effect your bloods ability to clot so I'm also taking naprosyn. I remember the Nurse Practioner asking me if I was taking anything for pain and I told her naprosyn and she said "naprosyn is good stuff", but she didn't say I should take it to avoid blood clots or inflammation. The firm, lumpy part of my bruise is about the size of if you cut a beer bottle in half from top to bottom and laid it on my leg. With the purple part I think it's about the biggest bruise I've seen. I suppose the left handlegrip jabbed me, amongst other contact that was made.

The nurse practitioner at my doctor's saw the bruise and didn't seem too worried. The bruising looked almost as bad then so I don't know if hospital would make a difference except in cost. I do appreciate the advice. Do you know how I can tell if it's making a big blood clot? The bruise is still swelled, firm, and extra warm but it's been that way for several days now.

I just tore the solenoid (black plastic top part) off of the anti-dive. I think the anti-dive tore the hole in the car door but it looks like the substantial part of it is intact.