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Could it be the synthetic oil???


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I just had a buddy of mine (BMW rider) asked if it is true that the problem is the clutch spring, wouldn't it slip in every gear? So, I guess that is a valid question I need answered. As I stated above, this happened in different gears at different shift points and acceleration points. Is that common for this problem?

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I just had a buddy of mine (BMW rider) asked if it is true that the problem is the clutch spring, wouldn't it slip in every gear? So, I guess that is a valid question I need answered. As I stated above, this happened in different gears at different shift points and acceleration points. Is that common for this problem?

 

No. sort of.

It will be most noticeable in the higher gears where it is easy to load the motor. It will still happen in the lower gears but acceleration is so quick that it is hard to notice.:bikersmilie:

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Hey Lenny,

First off, let me say, Thank You everyone for those kind words about the Clutch Spring Upgrade Kit. It would be my pleasure to help you secure the parts you need to solve this issue Lenny. Now, lets talk about Clutch Springs. In 1983 when the first V4 engine was installed in the MKI Venture Royale, Yamaha used a pressure plate that had 6 compression springs in it. This was an excellent clutch set up and it easily handled the power that these V4 motors could produce. In 1986, Yamaha went to a single Diaphragm type clutch spring. (think 6" concave washer) A piece of sheet steel is stamped in a progressive die, which forms the OD, ID, and the angular surface. The spring is then heat treated, and installed in your bike. Over time, heat, and the engagement of the clutch over and over again, draw the temper from the spring, and this causes the issue your are experiencing now. The clutch spring, friction discs, and steel clutch plates are ALL "wear items", like brake pads and are NOT covered under the Yamaha Warranty. The Clutch Diaphragm Spring that comes in the kit I offer is a much higher quality product. It is thicker, the angle is steeper, and the heat treating process is better. Plus the addition of the full Clutch Friction Disc at the rear of the Clutch Pac adds additional grabbing power to the stock clutch. There is a company by the name of PCW that developed this high quality Clutch Diaphragm Spring, which is the same spring I use in my kits. Weather you purchase your kit from me, or from PCW, this will solve your clutch slippage problem for miles to come, until your Friction Discs reach the MIN. thickness, and at that point, you will be replacing them as well.

The longer you let your clutch slip, the more damage you are doing to the Clutch Friction Discs, and the Steel Clutch Plates. Usually, with a bike of your vintage, and the relatively low miles you have, the Clutch Spring Kit will solve your issue nicely.

If you have any questions, please feel free to PM me. Or Google PCW Racing, either kit is a quality product. :thumbsup2:

Earl

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I just had a buddy of mine (BMW rider) asked if it is true that the problem is the clutch spring, wouldn't it slip in every gear? So, I guess that is a valid question I need answered. As I stated above, this happened in different gears at different shift points and acceleration points. Is that common for this problem?

 

The key word, or culprit is TORQUE, aka twisting force! Power to the rear wheel is a function of torque and RPM.

In the lower gears the clutch is not having to overcome the "load" by transferring as much torque to the transmission, because the transmission input shaft is turning faster. As you shift into the higher gears, the engine is capable of putting out the same "power" but the rpm of the transmission input shaft is turning slower, so the torque required to turn the transmission has to increase. If for what ever reason the clutch cannot transmit this increased torque (twisting force) it will slip.

To answer your question, yes it will slip in every gear if the clutch is exposed to equal torque in every gear, but to do this in say 1st gear, the back tire would probably light up, or something in the drive train might break, as a transmission is in reality a torque multiplier!

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The key word, or culprit is TORQUE, aka twisting force! Power to the rear wheel is a function of torque and RPM.

In the lower gears the clutch is not having to overcome the "load" by transferring as much torque to the transmission, because the transmission input shaft is turning faster. As you shift into the higher gears, the engine is capable of putting out the same "power" but the rpm of the transmission input shaft is turning slower, so the torque required to turn the transmission has to increase. If for what ever reason the clutch cannot transmit this increased torque (twisting force) it will slip.

To answer your question, yes it will slip in every gear if the clutch is exposed to equal torque in every gear, but to do this in say 1st gear, the back tire would probably light up, or something in the drive train might break, as a transmission is in reality a torque multiplier!

Holy Cow!

 

You had me believing that you knew what you were talking about there. I never knew you had a double jointed tongue Walter :yikes:

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Holy Cow!

 

 

You had me believing that you knew what you were talking about there. I never knew you had a double jointed tongue Walter

:yikes:

 

Stayed at a Holiday Inn last night? :rotf:

 

I'm not a mechanic... mostly just a rider.... but what he said.... sounds good !

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Here's a possible inexpensive and fairly easy fix that's at least worth checking.

 

I changed out my 2005 RSV's clutch and brake levers to some safety chrome levers right after I bought it. When I performed that changeover and installed the new chrome clutch lever, I failed to ensure that the small brass plunger that activates the clutch was fully seated in its brass bushing located in the clutch lever. Since the clutch activation plunger was never able to fully disengage, it caused my clutch to slip when under heavy load. This slippage occurred in all gears when revs and load were increased. My RSV only had about 12,000 miles on it, so I guessed that it was probably caused by something I had done during the clutch lever installation. I took a closer look at my work, and at the mechanics of the lever/plunger assembly, and discovered my goof. Once disassembled, cleaned, lubed and reassembled, all was right with the world again.

 

This is very simple to inspect, and could save you the expense of a new clutch if it happens to correct your slippage problem. It's worth a look see.

 

The only tools you'll need are a wide blade screwdriver and a 10 mm socket to remove the lever. I've attached a few photos to give you a better idea of what should be checked.

 

Note: This lever disassembly, cleaning, lubing and reassembly should probably be performed at least as often as does our throttle cable lubing. Just my opinion.

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Thanks to all for your suggestions and coaching. I ordered both of the kits from Earl today, and he is overnighting them to me. I hope to be able to give a good report back tomorrow night after I finish the job. It's incredible how much knowledge you folks have about these bikes. It certainly gives me a peace of mind knowing I can always turn to you guys (and gals) to find the answers to the various issues that may arise on my bike.

 

Thanks again.

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Lynn,

 

Ever since the major manufactures came out with synthetic motorcycle oil, I have used it with no issues.

 

However before then, in the mid 90s Motorcycle Consumer News came out with an evaluation of automotive Mobil 1 and Castrol Syntech and concluded that it was alright to use these oils in motorcycles who shared the same engine oil with the transmission. So, if MCN said it was ok, then I would give it a try and changed the oil in my 91 with Mobil 1. Well I discovered that when the engine oil was cold, the clutch would slip under little acceleration, but would not slip when the oil warmed to operating temps. So I dumped it and changed to Castrol Syntech.....and yeah I observed the same conditions. At that point I was pretty frustrated as well as being out the costs of two oil changes, so I changed back to my Golden Spectro synthetic blend and the slipage went away.

 

This is the only time I had clutch issues with engine oil and once I went back to a motorcycle synthetic blend or pure synthetic, I have never had a clutch issue unless the wear on the fiber plates was at the point that required action to either replace the fiber plates or install the PWC or Skydoc clutch plate. Since I made this upgrade, I have gone over 70k with no clutch issues.

 

Hope this helps,

 

Rick

 

Hey folks, I need your expertise.

 

Today my wife and I took a quick ride to grab a bite, and basically clear the cobwebs before we start another weeks work. As I was pulling out of the neighborhood, going through the gears getting up to speed, in 4th gear the bike revved a little and it sounded like clutch slippage. It was so quick and faint that I wasn't sure that I had actually experienced it. then we stopped at a red light. As we pulled away from the light, in 3rd or 4th, I can't remember which gear, it did it again. This time I felt for sure that it was clutch slippage. A mile or so after that, we hit an entrance ramp and got on the freeway. After I clicked it into 5th, and was throttling up to 70 mph, it revved again. From that point on it never did again. While we were eating, I remembered that a couple weeks ago when I rode it last, it had done the same thing once as I was pulling out of our neighborhood, but then didn't do it again the rest of the day. I thought then that I had imagined it, but not today. I know what I experienced today.

 

So, my question is, 3 weeks ago I changed the oil, and for the first time I used synthetic oil, could the synthetic oil be causing slippage?

 

The bike is a 2007 RSTD with 24k miles and has been perfect up until now.

 

Please advise.

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Thanks Rick,

 

I am going to install Earl's upgrade kit tonight. I feel sure, after all the information you and the other folks have given me, it will correct my problem. To tell you the truth, I have actually been wavering back and forth on whether I should just change back to the regular oil and see if that corrects it, but in the end, I just figured I should do the upgrade, and that way I shouldn't have to worry about it for miles to come.

 

I'm anxious to see if it is as easy a job as everyone has said.

 

Appreciate your concern,

 

Lynn

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Hey Folks,

 

Just wanted to let everyone know, I took your majority advice and installed Skydoc's clutch upgrade kit in my bike today. All I can say is, WOW! Not only did it correct the problem, it made the bike sooo much better coming out of the hole, and more torquey as I ran through the gears. Some said there would be about 15% harder pull on the clutch lever, but to be honest, I never really noticed it. What I did notice is, I didn't have to throttle it as much to take off in first gear, and the bike felt like it was pulling harder than it has in a while as I went through the power band in each gear. Pretty cool! No doubt the clutch has been slightly slipping for some time now without me really noticing it.

 

Thanks so much for everyones help on this matter. I know it's been stated on another popular thread, but this has been many times worth the $12.00 member fee.

 

BTW, The job was a piece of cake, as many of you stated. Earl was a big help by explaining in detail what I should expect. Also, the picture instructions that 93 Venture sent me was super helpful. It was so simple, I kept feeling like there should be more to it, but there wasn't. Lol.

 

Thanks again,

 

Lynn

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hi lynn

glad to hear you got it done. this site and the family that " live " here are the greatest. i have met and rode with so many great people. i have also saved $$ by doing a lot of my own mx. now we just need to have a mx day up in your area. myself and a few others have been known to ride a few hundred miles to help in these events.

best reguards

don c.

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