BigLenny Posted June 25, 2012 Share #1 Posted June 25, 2012 Hey folks, I need your expertise. Today my wife and I took a quick ride to grab a bite, and basically clear the cobwebs before we start another weeks work. As I was pulling out of the neighborhood, going through the gears getting up to speed, in 4th gear the bike revved a little and it sounded like clutch slippage. It was so quick and faint that I wasn't sure that I had actually experienced it. then we stopped at a red light. As we pulled away from the light, in 3rd or 4th, I can't remember which gear, it did it again. This time I felt for sure that it was clutch slippage. A mile or so after that, we hit an entrance ramp and got on the freeway. After I clicked it into 5th, and was throttling up to 70 mph, it revved again. From that point on it never did again. While we were eating, I remembered that a couple weeks ago when I rode it last, it had done the same thing once as I was pulling out of our neighborhood, but then didn't do it again the rest of the day. I thought then that I had imagined it, but not today. I know what I experienced today. So, my question is, 3 weeks ago I changed the oil, and for the first time I used synthetic oil, could the synthetic oil be causing slippage? The bike is a 2007 RSTD with 24k miles and has been perfect up until now. Please advise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandyR Posted June 25, 2012 Share #2 Posted June 25, 2012 What kind of synthetic oil? I use synthetic oil and don't have clutch slippage. (Rotella T6 and have used Mobil 1 4T). Does the label say friction reducing ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigLenny Posted June 25, 2012 Author Share #3 Posted June 25, 2012 Its Yamalube Performance Semi-Syn 20W-50. Up until now I have been using Yamalube Performance All Purpose 10W-40. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squidley Posted June 25, 2012 Share #4 Posted June 25, 2012 Its Yamalube Performance Semi-Syn 20W-50. Up until now I have been using Yamalube Performance All Purpose 10W-40. I highly doubt that it's the oil, I would like to think that Yamaha knows the majority if not all of the bikes they make are wet clutches. It sounds like you have a weak clutch spring, very common in the G2's. Skydoc 17 makes a complete kit with a heavier spring and a full friction disc replacement. I have done dozens of the upgrades and they work great, here's a link to his classified ad... http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3763&title=second-genheavy-duty-clutch-spring-upgrade-kit-21&cat=22 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted June 25, 2012 Share #5 Posted June 25, 2012 It is either the oil or you need Skydocs clutch spring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigLenny Posted June 25, 2012 Author Share #6 Posted June 25, 2012 Is the clutch spring covered under the 5 yr warranty? Its still under warranty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squidley Posted June 25, 2012 Share #7 Posted June 25, 2012 Is the clutch spring covered under the 5 yr warranty? Its still under warranty. Maybe....I haven't heard of anyone trying to get it replaced under warranty, but you could be the 1st one If it's not, for less than $100 and an hours time (I can do one in 20 minutes while talking) you can have a top notch clutch. Hell you dont even have to drain the oil as it can be done on the sidestand. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradT Posted June 25, 2012 Share #8 Posted June 25, 2012 (I can do one in 20 minutes while talking) And when are you quiet ? Brad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93 venture Posted June 25, 2012 Share #9 Posted June 25, 2012 And when are you quiet ? Brad oh you beat me to it :rotf: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wes0778 Posted June 25, 2012 Share #10 Posted June 25, 2012 oh you beat me to it :rotf: :sign yeah that::sign yeah that::sign20::sign20: :rotf::rotf::rotf::rotf: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigLenny Posted June 25, 2012 Author Share #11 Posted June 25, 2012 So...I'm guessing Squidley is a talker? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pmelah Posted June 25, 2012 Share #12 Posted June 25, 2012 squidley is making up for lost time yea i think he was without internet for a while i could be wrong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigLenny Posted June 25, 2012 Author Share #13 Posted June 25, 2012 So....I take from the different comments that there is a slim chance that changing from regular 10W-40 to Semi Synthetic 20W-50 could be the cause of slight slippage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93 venture Posted June 25, 2012 Share #14 Posted June 25, 2012 It needs the clutch kit, i put the kit in mine i got from Earl, made the clutch very happy. Squidley is a good guy, we just love to yank at that chain:stirthepot: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
friesman Posted June 25, 2012 Share #15 Posted June 25, 2012 possible,......but not very likely. If you were using anoything other than yamalube I would have more questions. When buying oil avoid the bottles of oil that have the "energy conserving "crest on them as that will definitly cause youre clutch to slip. Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeS Posted June 25, 2012 Share #16 Posted June 25, 2012 Well, drain out the expensive stuff, and put in some Castrol, plain , old " Castrol 15W-40W " and see what happens. ( or 20W-50W , its summer time ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freebird Posted June 25, 2012 Share #17 Posted June 25, 2012 I would say that the synthetic oil could have caused it to start slipping. I use synthetic (Mobile 1 Racing) in my '99 and have since about 2000 miles. It is likely though that your spring was weak and the addition of the synthetic was just enough slicker to cause it to start slipping a bit sooner than it was already going to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigLenny Posted June 25, 2012 Author Share #18 Posted June 25, 2012 Maybe the next question I have is.....Does anyone know where I can read a detailed explanation of how to change the clutch spring? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
93 venture Posted June 25, 2012 Share #19 Posted June 25, 2012 check this out. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10518 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wizard765 Posted June 25, 2012 Share #20 Posted June 25, 2012 I believe Skydoc's kit comes with instructions. This is an easy job... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted June 25, 2012 Share #21 Posted June 25, 2012 The very first time you do it with no help, expect to spend an hour. The second one that you do to help someone else out will be under 30 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunboat Posted June 25, 2012 Share #22 Posted June 25, 2012 (edited) hi lynn you didn't say how many miles you have on the bike. my first 2'nd gen the clutch started doing the same as yours. around 21,000-25,000 miles, it seams to be common on these bikes. i replaced the clutch plate/ spring with one from barrnet. it's kind of expensive, but it's a pretty purple color. my '99 rsv trike started sliping at about the same millage. but this time i replaced it with the skydoc kit. you can't go wrong with earl's kit. if i can be of any help give me a call, # is in my profile. reguards don c. Edited June 25, 2012 by gunboat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigLenny Posted June 25, 2012 Author Share #23 Posted June 25, 2012 Gunboat, It has 24,000 on it. I bought it new in June of 2008. It is still under warranty, but I assume they would say this is a wear item and not covered. All the feedback that you folks have given me has me fired up about getting the parts in and getting it done. I'm certainly interested in buying Skyroc's product. I emailed him earlier today to see if I could pay to have it overnighted. he hasn't returned my email yet. We have a ride scheduled for this coming weekend, and I'm anxious to get it done. I assume, as several others have said, you found it to be an easy and simple fix? Lynn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted June 25, 2012 Share #24 Posted June 25, 2012 Unless you are really good, you will want to have a little itty bitty torque wrench handy that will go down to 6 lb/in (IIRC). You would really hate to snap one of those "tiny" screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gunboat Posted June 25, 2012 Share #25 Posted June 25, 2012 hi lynn yes it's a pretty stright & easy procedure. just make sure you keep all the old gasket materal out of the cavity. as been said you don't even have to drain the oil. you should buy some ball-end metric allen wrenches. this helps to reach the bottom couple of bolts. also make a mock-up cardboard cover and poke holes in it. as to place each bolt in the same place on the mock-up as you remove it from the case. now the very bottom bolt should have a copper crush washer on it. the shop manual says to use a new copper crush washer. but the crush washer was missing on the trike. so i just put some gasket seleant on the threads and re-installed it. also skydoc instructions will tell you, the clutch handle will now be some what harder to pull in. but it won't take you long to get use to the stiffer pull. reguards don c. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now