SilvrT
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Everything posted by SilvrT
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I thought about holding it in the vise at the "nut" end and drilling from the inside to the outside...may still do this. There is not enough of a "lip" on the thing to hold it in the vise any other way (it's either the threads or the nut). But hey...I always wanted a drill press ....
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Well, I hate to admit my stupidity but I'm gonna anyway. I thought about this issue of the threads over and over and yesterday I picked up a new oil drain plug of the specified size and while I was thinking about drilling/tapping it, it then all of a sudden it hit me as to how the threads got messed up. When I drilled the first one, I now remember that the drill bit grabbed and spun the drain plug in the vise. You see, I was drilling it from the "nut" end towards the inside end and had it in the vise where the threads are. Of course, I protected the threads with cloth and wasn't expecting the thing to spin on me... but it did... and that's what caused the threads to get chewed up a bit. Gawd I am LOOSING IT! ... I guess that was one of the stupider things I've done and my mind just blocked it out. (must be an age thing). I did it that way because I don't have a drill press and I wanted to be sure that if I drilled it a bit "off straight" then at least the outside hole would be centered. So, holding it in the vise on the threads was the only way. THIS TIME, with the new one, I am gonna take it to a machine shop and have the hole drilled ... or maybe I should just invest in a drill press... after all, this is a good "excuse" to use to convince the "boss" that I should have one! :D OK... let the razzin begin ....
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Yes, I've checked it very carefully. Cleaned it all off and blew some talcum powder all over the area... started the bike and ran it until normal op temp. I could then see exactly where it was leaking ... from the edge of the fitting where the teflon gasket is. I remember when I installed it, it seemed rather tight right off yet it wasn't cross-threaded. ... strange. I think I will get another one and drill/tap it for the brass elbow fitting. BTW... the threads in the engine look in good shape.
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heh ... yeah and every time a new version of some "high tech" thing comes out...along with it comes another set of problems LOL
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Ahhhh...... so the speedo is not a "gear driven" device but rather an electrical sensor then? hmmmmmmm... now I "get it" LOL Than then leads me to wonder .... the ring gear of the Vmax would not have the same number of teeth as a stock ring gear so I wonder how much that affects the speedo (assuming the sensor "counts the teeth")...
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Actually, it was V7goose who did a technical writeup about this and I sent this direct to him ... just thought posting it here would get a more varied response (seeing as I haven't heard from goose yet) I'd be looking fwd to either Ponch's or Goose's input as well as anyone else.
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I posted the following from here... http://blog.yourmoney.ca/2009/11/price-scanner-free-food.html Watch the price scanner to get your food for free Standing in the supermarket checkout line waiting for your food to scan can be as much fun as watching paint dry. But if you watch carefully and spy a scanner price error, you could score that grocery item for free. Mistakes on electronic price scans are common at the grocery store. The U.S. Federal Trade Commission has found that errors occur in 1 out of every 32 regularly priced items. Errors are more common on sale items, with 1 out of 28 items being overcharged to consumers. The cost of being overcharged at the till can add up to many dollars per month per family. But in Canada, spotting a scanner error could save you up to $10 per item. The Retail Council of Canada has a Scanner Price Accuracy Voluntary Code that states: If the correct price of the product is $10 or less, the retailer will give the product to the customer free of charge; or If the correct price of the product is higher than $10, the retailer will give the customer a discount of $10 off the corrected price. As a consumer, all you have to do to qualify is watch as your groceries are scanned at the checkout and verify that prices are accurate. If you see an error, don’t be afraid to ask the cashier to give you the item for free. If your cashier is unaware of the policy, ask for a manager or go to the customer service desk to claim your free food. Over the years I've used the Scanner Price Accuracy Voluntary Code to my benefit. This year alone I've claimed at least $20 in free groceries due to price scanning errors. At times I've had to explain the code to confused cashiers, but many times I've walked away with free food by just asking. Many participating supermarkets post this code at checkout, so don't be wary of asking whenever you see a mistake. Being overcharged at the till can really add up! The occasional free food item is great, but to help you keep weekly grocery costs down be sure to plan ahead with a shopping list. Download this free Printable Grocery Shopping List to help you: Save money by curbing impulse food buys. Identify healthy and frugal foods on a single master list. Save time grocery shopping. Never forget another grocery item. See the Retail Council of Canada for a list of stores that are committed to accurate scanner pricing with the Scanner Price Accuracy Voluntary Code. Your Turn: Do you spy scanner price errors at the grocery checkout? Do you say something about it? Posted at 04:15 AM in Food and Drink, Personal Finance, Saving, Tips | Permalink
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OK so here's my "dumb question" for today.... If you mill the hole for the speedo, what else is needed to make it work...what "drives" the speedo sensor?
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As ya'll know I did the "gauge conversion" last spring. After a summer of driving, I found recently that the "main fitting" (that M20-1.50 oil drain plug that replaces the stock plug in the side of the engine that we tap into) was leaking oil. I had used a nylon washer. When I removed it, I found that the threads were quite chewed up ... not stripped but more like "flattened". Like the sharp edge of the thread had been filed down. Any ideas about this? Are these threads not exactly the same as the plug that comes out of that hole? I'm concerned about re-using it now. There seems to still be sufficient thread depth to hold it in but .... to me, it should look normal after unscrewing it. Any thoughts/ideas/suggestions? I wonder if wherever I got the oil plug from that they gave me a wrong one...or is that even possible. What is better than a nylon washer? I'm thinking the washer somehow shrunk from compaction and heat to cause the leak because it was fine for most of the summer. I just noticed this recently after parking the bike for the winter.
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.. wmv file that is 3Mb so that ya'll can see it?
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I set mine on 2 blocks of 2x4 (the sidestand)... it is so close to level..but just enuf off to cause a bit more weight to the left .. I then step off the right while I hold pressure against the left thru either the handlebars or the seat... I can then stoop down to see that the oil level is where it should be (above or below center) and that's about as close as ya can get. Works for me.
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and here I thought this thread was about a cager...
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ok ... I understand .... what's that saying... something like "I know you understand what you think you heard but I'm not sure you heard what you thought I said..." (something like that) LOL That was me on that end LOL
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Still looking for a pic of a stamped "I" basket showing the actual stamp....
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I didn't see yours in there Jack..??
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Ken.. appreciate the warning but isn't what you're saying a bit of a contradiction? If a program can be found to uninstall it, that would seem "normal" to me. I'm just sayin....
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Makes sense to me ... but I doubt we'd get anywhere by "pitching" that to anyone at Yamaha...
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Thanks M8T ... mine was done under warranty so I will chase the dealer. Can you take a pic of the back where it shows the " I " stamp and post it please. I figgure the more "real" ammo I have, the less hassle I will get.
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Makes me wonder how many other's have been "had" ... how do ya really know if the dealer put in an "I" basket or some other basket eh? Ya take their word... well, I took "my" dealer's word and look what I got ... a friggin "G" basket!! You can be sure I will be raisin H3LL about this!
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That's exactly what I thought! So, correct me if I'm wrong but.... a " G " basket is the stock one...?? Then It goes to "H" ... then to "I"..?
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So, I took my clutch basket out today. I was supposed to have had the " I " basket swap but for some reason I don't trust nobody and the swap made no difference in the whine so I took it out to check. Supposedly the basket should have an " I " stamped somewhere on it...? I don't see it on mine. Do any of you have a pic of exactly what is stamped on the back??? Here's pics of mine... is it or is it not an " I " basket??? EDIT: I'll rephrase that... I don't trust the Yamaha dealer but I do trust you guyz !
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I spliced into my stock horn wires... don't see why it wouldn't work on a car ... same system basically.
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yeah but.... then all the sound is UNDER the scoot...
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Check my thread for some pics of my Stebel install... [ame=http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41530]Stebel Nautilus Horn Install - VentureRider.Org[/ame] Also, (not shown in the pic) here's a pic of where I installed the relay... I just zap-strapped it on.
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ya... same crap here on BuySell.com. I responded to about 4 different motorcycle ads (just for the halibut) ... the prices were ridiculously low so I knew it was a scam. Got exactly the same email response from all 4 of them LOL ... geeesh ... are there really people out there that fall victim to such B/S ?
