rougeray

I had the same problem a year or so ago. Went to a lock smith and he sprayed it with some silicon in a spray can. He DID NOT recommend using graphite as he said it had the tendency to turn to a paste when it got wet. He also said NOT to press down when turning the key. A method he showed me works every time. Grip the key withe thumb and index finger. Slightly pull back towards the key ring then turn the key. You can feel a slight bit of sloppiness in the lock mechanism when you pull back then turn. Works every time! Dealer wanted I think $180.00 for a new lock. Plus you have to drill out the existing bolts as this is an anti thief feature. Not sure if new bolts with break away heads come with the new lock.

BTW how many miles on the bike. I have an 07 and my fuel pump went out at about 60,000 miles and the stator at 78,000.

R/R will be hot this is normal. The fins are there to help this condition. I just went through what you are going through although it seems that your problem has resolved itself by exersizing the plug at the R/R. I was not so lucky as it required the changing of the stator.

Dan, If the VA can't give you an appointment within 30 days you can call 866-606-8198 and they are suppose to set you up with a local doctor. If they have been jerking you around since your accident I'd give this a try. I had a colonoscopy done locally as it was gonna be a hassle for me to travel to New Orleans to have it done. When you had your accident were you transported to the hospital by EMS? Did you advise the hospital/ER that you are a veteran? It's my understanding that if that is done they must treat you till arrangements are made to get you to a VA hospital. I'm sure they treated you in the ER then cut you loose but the VA may pay for the ER. Just a thought. We have been waiting for a VA hospital since KATRINA destroyed the one in New Orleans. That has been 10 yrs and it's not suppose to open till 2016!

Concerning your original problem you said you measured your battery voltage and you said it was just under 12 vdc. That buzzing noise you heard was probably your starter relay. Battery voltage should be up around 12.6 vdc. The relay is located on the left side of the bike. You have to take the left side cover off, the passenger foot rest and plastic cover behind it. Look it over real good as it develops corrosion. The positive cable from the battery and the cable to the starter are attached. If battery voltage is low the relay will not fully engage and make a buzzing noise. I have replaced that relay twice due to corrosion. The last time I coated all connection with dielectric grease. Seems to be ok now. Even if you have a fully charged battery it can give you that buzzing noise due to corrosion that will not allow full power from the battery. BTW that relay has two 30 amp fuses. One is a spare the other is the main fuse for the bike. I would pull the main fuse out and look for corrosion. It may not want to come out if it's corroded real bad. You could have two different problems here. Gas leaking into the cylinder and corrosion at the starter relay. What ever you find post it so we can learn from your problem.

I'm concerned that you have gas in the oil. I have had a hydraulic lock on my bike before and it was due to putting on an aftermarket fuel pump that allowed fuel to the carbs when the bike was sitting idle. The actual problem is a carb float that is not sealing therefore gas is trickling out of the carburetor past the valves into the cylinder. When you try to start the piston cannot compress the liquid and it jams the starter. It took about 4 times of this happening before I figured out what it was. I was very lucky that I didn't do damage to the engine. If this is what's happening to you when you press the start button it sounds like the starter is gonna come out of the side of the engine ie a very loud bang. It happened every time I filled the gas tank up and let it sit overnight. The head pressure from a full tank allowed fuel to flow into the cylinder. Gas is getting into the cylinder around the rings and into the oil. Soooo you can damage the engine two ways. Gas in the oil and trying to compress a liquid which can damage a piston or connecting rod. If this is what's happening to you turn the fuel petcock off every time you stop the engine. That will allow you to ride but the ultimate fix is removing the carbs and finding out why a float is not sealing when the bowl is full.

I broke all of my ribs and the collar bone in a motorcycle accident. I had to tell them something was wrong with the collar bone. All they did was put my arm in a sling to prevent movement so that it would hopefully heal properly. It didn't. Anyway get use to sleeping on your back and don't sneeze, laugh or cough. But I'm sure you already know that. Will take about 3 months before your close to normal. What trick are you using to get out of bed in the morning? I would bring my left leg back to my chest, then clasp my hands around my knee holding my arms tight to my sides then rock myself up into a sitting position. Not something I ever want to go through again.

Call or PM Cowboy. He just replaced his.

Fantastic ride, I truly envy you. It would be tough to to beat that trip! Thanks for sharing.

Hmmm what do you do when the tank needs to come off. Drain the fregen tank? Don't suppose the design engineer has any common sense. 🍺😜

I need to buy a new rear brake rotor. Any suggestions? Thanks

I bought my 07 RSV new and up until a couple of weeks ago I was not aware the key could be removed while in the ACC position. The owners manual says it cannot. It appears I left it in the ACC position then removed the key with the sound system in AUX and ran the battery down one evening. Can the key be removed in the ACC position and the manual has a misprint or is my switch wearing out? I like being able to remove the key when filling up as I can listen to the tunes. I like being able to remove the key but I'm extra careful about making sure the key is in the off position at the end of a ride. Any thoughts? Thanks

Check the starter relay. They have a tendency to corrode I think due to their location. I have replaced mine twice. Last time I used dielectric grease on connections. Haven't had a problem since.

I put in a new stator from RICKS MOTORSPORT ELECTRIC, $160.00 plus shipping. This is not an easy job soooo be prepared. Once you have the side cover off that holds the stator there are three screws that hold the stator in. You are going to need a hand held impact at the very least. Another member advised she had to put some heat on the screws to get them out. I just used the hand held impact but buggered up one screw and had to chase down some new ones. Should you have some questions PM or call me. BTW it is a higher output than OEM.

My experience is that it only seals a very narrow band of the tire. I acquired a nail in my rear tire shortly after putting a new tire on with 9oz of Ride-On. Of course the nail was outside of the narrow band and had to be repaired with a plug. Don't think that this product provides you with a puncture proof tire. Not sure if I will use it again as it is expensive and has not proven itself to me.

I got my notice on the 20th and it expires on the 22nd. So the notification is working.

$73,000 big ones?

Just checked and it expires on the 22nd. Gonna mark my calendar and let ya know if I get a notice. Thanks

I have never gotten a notice. I'm probably expired now and if so lt me know. Thanks

Lost my left side a couple of yrs ago. I do use the remaining one.

Well, I finally got around to pulling the stator after replacing the R/R to no avail. Due to the holidays, other obligations and the weather the bike has been sitting since the middle of December. This job took about a day in a half that included chasing down new screws that held the stator in the side case. Plan on having a hand held impact when you go to remove the screws that hold the stator in place. They all came out but I buggered one up. The hardest part of the job was feeding the wires (starter power wire, wires for the stator, wires for the pickup coil and a pair I have no idea where they go) down so that I could get the side case away from the bike to work on it. All these wires feed into metal clamp that is squeezed around them and bolted to the engine. I was unable to pry this clamp apart due to its location so that I would only feed the stator wires out. The starter cable is the same gauge as the ground wire that comes off the battery there for it is ridged and is long, as it connects to the starter relay. When I reassembled I reused this clamp but in hind sight I should have used tie wraps to prevent chafing and hold the wires in place. I also completely removed the nuts that held the exhaust pipe to the front cylinder. The very front nut is difficult to get to and almost impossible to restart it. Of course while trying to get it started I dropped the nut which required removing part of the lower left front fairing so I could get a mirror in there to look for it. It is all back together now and the charging system puts out about 13.7 vdc while at idle. It does not go to 14 vdc with the engine revved up which is somewhat concerning considering this is a high output stator. Oh well…… Went for a ride yesterday and bike ran flawlessly. As far as trouble shooting a charging problem in the future I would recommend checking the stator output using Flyinfool’s method called out in his procedure “TESTING FOR A BATTERY NOT CHARGING.” first. With the engine reved up check the AC output with a meter all three legs. No more than 5% difference between legs. That will tell you right up front if the stator is putting out. I had 98, 92 & 76 vac. BTW I’m using the original OEM R/R as the one I purchased from Caltric is smaller. pic1 is the new stator pic2 is the old stator pic3 is the bike disassembled pic4 is the two R/R. (right is OEM left is Celtric)

This was a post sometime ago made by dingy. Just thought I would throw it out there for consideration. It appears though a new R/R is in order based on your last post. Be sure and post what eventually happens. "Something else that would be very helpful that has been mentioned before on this forum is to run a heavy gauge wire from the regulator to the battery. Do this on the red (positive) & black (negative) wire. Use at least 12 gauge wire. If you have the type of regulator that has a brown wire, it's OK as is. This was used a voltage sensor. Reason this helps is that inside of the wiring harness there are a couple of crimp style connections between the regulator & the battery that can become high resistance with all the vibration & other various factors that they are subject to. Especially the ground wire side. It has connections all over. There is one connection in particular on the VMax's that is notorious for causing problems. Venture harnesses are of course different, so problem could be similar at other points. If you are going to run the extra wires, I would SOLDER them into the R/R right next to the body of the R/R. In other words, don't go through the R/R connector, less chance for a high resistance problem. Solder a ring type connection on the battery end and screw it right to the posts. It would be prudent to put at least a 30 amp fuse in line with the positive wire as close to battery as can be. I know the 1st gens have a 40 amp main fuse, but this wire will not carry the full load, it is in parallel with existing wiring. 40 amp fuse holders are not commonly available." Gary

One quick check. With the R/R connected to the wiring harness can you stick needles into the red and black wires then measure the output of the R/R at the plug? This would tell you if you have a wiring problem back to the battery be it a bad ground or bad connection. The output of the R/R goes to the starter solenoid then to the battery. I have replaced two starter solenoids on my 07 due to corrosion. Output measured at the R/R plug should be at or around 14 vdc. If not I would be looking to replace it. Sounds like you have a good stator installed. Where did you get it and is it a high output stator? Be advised many people on this forum have said get a R/R that is compatible with a high output stator as a OEM or run of the mill aftermarket won't last with the high output stator. Now that the holidays are over I'm gonna get back to getting mine fixed. My next step is to replace the stator. Since I bought a aftermarket R/R and that did not work I would like to just buy a aftermarket standard stator to match it. However I have not seen one advertised at a reputable seller. I'm sure one from a dealer would be as much as one from say Buckeye Performance. Soooo a couple of questions. 1. Where did you get your new stator and is it a high output. 2. You obviously found the connector from the stator to the wiring harness. Where did you find it? None of your posts prior to replacing the stator acknowledged you had found it.

Trip to the Texas Hill Country last summer. Pic to right is me traveling N on I 140 in east TN Ray White aka "rougeray".

I may be able to give you a little help as I’m having problems with my charging system on a 07 RSV. I would suggest you read my thread in this Forum and it should give you some ideas where to look and some testing ideas. The Title is “Charging system not working” and it was started by me, rougeray. First off I suggest you start your testing at the regulator/rectifier. It is located under the radiator and above the oil filter. You will need to take the lower right hand fairing off. There are two bolts that hold the R/R on. One is a real bear to get to but I was able to get to it with a ¼” ratchet and socket. Remove the R/R and disconnect the wiring harness, It has 5 wires, 3 white (from stator) 1 black (the ground) 1 red output of the R/R to the battery. Inspect the connector for burning. Start doing the test procedure thatFlyinfool gave you a link to. Your gonna need a good volt ohm meter. Quick and easy test for the stator is putting your meter on volts A/C. This is one of the tests Flyinfool has listed towards the end. Then start the bike rev it up and hold that setting (I did that by putting vise grips on the throttle to hold it in place). Then take the leads of the meter and put one on the no. 1 wire the other on the no. 2 wire. It should be up around 100 vac. Then move the probes to wires no. 2 and 3 then to 3 and 1. All should be close together at or around 100 vac. Mine checked out at 1-2 98 vac 2-3 92 vac 3-1 76 vac Hmm 1&2 look ok (close) 3 not so close. I did this earlier using the choke to speed the engine up and got 1-2 68 vac 2-3 64 vac 3-1 54 vac Hmm not so close. Here is a link to the wiring schematic http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09%20Yamaha%20Royal%20Star%20Venture%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20B.pdf. I see only one connector between the stator wires coming from the stator and the connector that connects to the R/R. With the seat pulled you maybe able to see it from the left side of the bike but it is buried. To get to it you will have to remove the battery box. Look for a connector that has 3 white wires in and 3 out. Mine looked ok.