rougeray

It can be mounted where your current horn is mounted. Carbon_One sells a mounting bracket and a wiring harness as well. A plug and play set up I used and recommend.

I have not pealed back the OEM insulation that is wrapped around the wiring harness looking for bad connections that was suggested. Number one is that just cutting and pealing it back I’m afraid I would damage some of the wire underneath. I already did this to one of the wires going to the R/R plug when trying to peal it back. Number two is it would be very difficult to rewrap with electricians tape and get it to fit back properly and not cause a chafing problem. I would prefer to solder a jumper wire close to the R/R and run it back to the battery for the positive connection and for the ground solder a jumper and run it up to the grounding point for bonding strap seen in the pictures. Would someone please comment on this? Thanks

Pulled the battery today and took it down to Auto Zone. Battery checked out good with an 86% charge. I hope the guy knew what he was doing. Brought the battery back installed and started bike. While keeping the bike rev’ed up to get the fan started I kept the throttle open well above idle. I also had the meter hooked up. The voltage on the battery slowly kept coming up. It started at about 12.4 and slowly climbed to 13.1. Once the fan came on I shut it down and checked for windings to ground. Checked with the Blk lead of the meter attached to the battery negative terminal and the meter set to 20m ohms. All checked open. I wrapped up the wires that connect to the R/R and installed the R/R and lower right hand fairing. One of those bolts for the R/R is a bear to get started. Reinstalled all panels & left passenger floor board. Bike reassembled except for seat. It was still early in the afternoon so I decided to look for the ground up front close to the triple tree. It was easy to find right next to where the right front bolt that holds the tank on (see pics). It was corroded so I cleaned it up. This appears to be a bonding strap that runs from somewhere behind the front fairing to the main frame. This was not a point where the ground wire from the R/R would ground. Reinstalled tank. I’m contemplating hooking up the meter so that I can monitor it tomorrow on a ride. I would like to see how much it does charge the battery going down the road. OBTW The plug going to the R/R looks good. Looks brand new, no burning as I have seen in other posts. Soooo at this point I see 2 items that all this testing has shown as a problem. 1. A good ground and positive connection from the R/R to the battery. One of the test required that with R/R be hooked up bike running headlight on and measure the voltage from the R/R back to the battery. This was done by sticking pins in the blk wire and red wire and measure the voltage between those two points back to the battery at the appropriate battery terminal. The red measured .2 the blk measured .7. I was able to lower this too .06 red & .07 blk by running a jumper back to the battery. These jumpers were just temporary and are not installed at this time. 2. The A/C voltage measured at the R/R plug with R/R removed. 1-2 98 vac 2-3 92 vac 3-1 76 vac These are the only two items during testing that did not check out. Would someone please comment on this?

Wow that is amazing! Glad you reposted as I missed Mike's post.

I will get the battery load tested tomorrow to ensure that that is not a problem. I want to thank all of you for the input you have provided. I would total lost without it. If the battery tests good it looks like the stator is the problem???

Thanks for that info as I was not aware of that but it makes sense. Reading all three phases .8. Meter set at 200 ohms (lowest setting) probes touching .4 ohms. After you subtract that from .8 you come up with .4 for stator resistance all three phase. Spec. is .36-.48. Not sure if that is the proper terminology (phase). Sooooo I'm within the spec.

I'm gonna have the battery load tested tomorrow to eliminate that. Yes I did the voltage test with the R/R removed. I took the readings at the plug that plugs into the R/R 1-2= 98 vac 2-3= 92 vac 3-1= 76 vac

Thanks I will give this a try.

Ok ….I charged the battery up to 12.75 vdc that held steady after 5 min with no charger. I then hooked up the charger and allowed it to charge for 5 min then measured the battery voltage at 13.91 vdc this was steady charger connected. After letting it sit for 5 min no charger I measured 12.78 vdc. Do you think the battery is marginal as it did not reach 15 vdc? The charging system really has only 5 major components as I see it. You have the The stator (did not include rotor as there isn’t anything that can happen with it as it is a piece of steal with fixed magnets. “Next test is to start the bike and hold it above 2000 RPM. As I don’t have any way to measure the RPM’s I hooked a pair of vice grips to the throttle grip and guesstimated 2000 RPM. 1-2 98 vac 2-3 92 vac 3-1 76 vac Hmm 1&2 look ok (close) 3 not so close. I did this earlier using the choke to speed the engine up and got 1-2 68 vac 2-3 64 vac 3-1 54 vac Hmm not so close. 2. Wiring from stator to R/R. I found the 3 wire connector from the stator that connects to the wiring harness to R/R. All of this looked good. The only question I have here is the high resistance that was measured from that connector at R/R to stator. “The next item to check was the 3 white wires going to ground. Set the meter to 20M ohms and all checked open. Next checked the resistance between each pair of wires. My lowest setting is 200 ohms and I got a reading of .8 all 3 pairs. The spec calls for .36-.48. Hmmm possible problem or the meter will not go low enough” 3. The R/R. This was changed using a newly purchased R/R from Caltric. It actually did not produce as well as the OEM R/R. So I’m ruling out a bad R/R. 4. Wire from output of R/R to battery. With the original wire, bike running headlight on I measured .2 red and .7 black. frankd suggested this is too much and to attach a jumper to each wire and attach it to the battery at the appropriate terminal. This reduced the resistance down to red .06 black .07. So this is ruled out. 5. Battery This battery is about a year and a half old. It does charge up to 12.75. I’m waiting on a response to the readings I provided at the beginning of this write up. This is in question? So to me the only thing left of question are items 1 & 2. This is based on getting an OK on the readings taken of the battery at the beginning of this write up. All comments and suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

It’s been a while since I have given an update on what I have found. I was suppose to have received the new R/R last Thursday but did not hit my door step till Monday evening. I just got around to installing and testing today. The new R/R was smaller than the original and actually put out less than the original or OEM R/R. So I reinstalled the original and ran a test that was recommended by Micarl. (see pics). I soldered wires to safety pins then installed in wires and attached to battery. With bike running headlight on meter set to 2 vdc One lead touching blk wire at R/R the other at the neg. battery terminal: reading .07 One lead touching red wire at R/R the other at the pos. battery terminal: reading .06 With bike running headlight on engine rev’ed meter set to 20 vdc vdc at R/R:13.00 vdc at Battery:12.7 With bike running headlight & fan on engine rev’ed meter set to 20 vdc vdc at R/R:12.4 vdc at Battery:12.2 With this info can anybody give me something else I can try? The aftermarket R/R was smaller and did not perform as well as the original. I’m gonna do some checking and make sure they sent the right one. Oh BTW the Caltric is made in China.

Thanks, would never have thought to look there.

That would be the one to the right of the battery on the schematic. That is the main ground. If you look to the left of the battery you see a connector then the ground. I have found the connector but not the grounding point. After that grounding point a whole bunch of components hook to this wire. I would like to find this grounding point and clean it. If that does not help the next step is tracing the wire back to the connector looking for a bad connection. As you know the wiring harness are wrapped tightly and that would be removed and can never be duplicated. This is why I want to find this grounding point before it gets to that point. Chances are if no major repair work was done you would not know were this grounding point is. See http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?91126-Charging-system-not-working

That is the grounding point to the right of the battery. I'm looking for the one to the left.

See. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?91126-Charging-system-not-working

I have both seats off and I see no wires grounded to the frame. :confused24:

I'm having an electrical problem and I need to check the grounding points on a 2nd generation bike. On the schematic for a 2nd gen. It shows two grounding points. The one that connects to the battery and then one that comes off the ground wire for all the other components that eventually ties into the grounding strap off the battery. When you open the link go to the battery (lower right and side) and you will see the two points. I want to know where the one to the left is. Thanks http://www.venturerider.org/wiring/99-09%20Yamaha%20Royal%20Star%20Venture%20Wiring%20Diagram%20Rev%20B.pdf

Ok........did what Flyinfool suggested. Put the pins back in the wires and measured back at the battery. Meter was set a 2 vdc Red wire .2 idle rev'ed .3 Black wire .7 idle rev'ed .8 Does this mean the ground is probably a problem or both? I did not record the second digit or hundreds of a volt but if you add the .7 and 12.13 (reading at idle all fuses in and fan running) it comes up to 12.83 and the vdc reading at the R/R yesterday was 12.9 under the same conditions only today the fan was not running. After looking at the wiring schematic I notice there are several points following the black wire back to the battery that are identified as “soldered or plug connector”. Can you explain what I’m looking for? There is a connector to the right of the battery box that ties in a small gauge wire that terminates into the negative cable that connects to the battery terminal. I’m thinking that is where the black wire from the R/R terminates. I will have to remove the battery and battery box to get to it. On my list for tomorrow. If nothing else this a great learning experience.

Carbon One's lift adapter is 12.5" The length of the saddle on the Sears jack is 13.375. That gives you .4375 or 7/16" on either side. I have never had a problem lifting my RSV with it. Go to his web site and I believe he tells you which jacks are marginal. BTW get the legs with it that way you don't take the chance of knocking the bike off plus the jack is out of the out of they way. First time you lift it the pucker factor goes way up......gets better the more times you use it.

Ok, looks like I have some good data for the electrical guru’s. When I originally started this test the fan was not running and the readings rev’ed up at the battery with no headlight fuse was 13 plus and I thought maybe just exercising the connector from the stator to the R/R helped. Once the fan kicked on the readings decreased and decreased even more when the headlight fuse was installed. So as the load is increased the output of the R/R cannot keep up. It appears there is a 1 vdc drop between the R/R and the battery. Is that acceptable? Just some added info. no added electrical accessories except a Stebel horn and the plug & play to take the load off the ign. switch sold by one of the members. The blade of the key was getting hot and this resolved that problem. All fuses installed fan running Idle at R/R: 12.9 Rev'ed at R/R: 13.16 Idle at Batt: 12.13 Rev'ed at Batt: 12.18 Headlight fuse removed fan running Idle at R/R: 13.57 Rev'ed at R/R: 13.9 Idle at Batt: 12.6 Rev'ed at Batt: 12.8 The readings at the R/R were taken by putting a needle in the red and black wires. The R/R is getting hot while performing these tests. Thanks for all the input.

That looks exactly like the one I bought from Sears only it's blue. Check the specs between the two if they are the same jump on it.

Thanks all for the input. I'm gonna try the needle thing first than if need be run the wires back to the battery. I have never seen the bike charge the battery at 13.5-14 vdc from the time it was brand new. One phase of the charging system being low could possibly cause that? It would be say around 13.3 or 13.4. I could have gotten a R/R off of Amazon sooner but it was from a Chinese co. Past posts did not recommend using them. Caltric is a CA co. soooo I'm hoping it is a quality made component. Anyway need to put the gas tank back on and will put everything else back together. I'll up date later this evening. Oh BTW I did check the starter solenoid and main fuse. All appear ok. Thanks agin for the input.

So I don’t misunderstand, you suggesting peeling back some insulation on the red wire close to where the wires (3 wht, 1 rd & 1 blk) connects to the R/R. Connect a wire with an alligator clip to the red wire and run that wire back to the battery positive terminal, then check to see if the if the R/R is providing enough power to charge the battery? BTW I found the connector from the stator that connects to the harness that runs the white wires to the R/R. You have to remove a panel that the cover for the radiator over flow bottle snaps to. Then remove the overflow bottle. Then you can get your hands in to the connector. I exercised the connector several times to remove any corrosion. I have ordered a R/R off of ebay from Caltric ($32.00) to try before pulling the stator. Its suppose to be her by Thursday so I have time to try your suggestion. Plus that’s a cheap component and good to have as a spare should your suggestion work. Oh… and should you have to pull the stator you need to drain the oil. Yesterday was beautiful as will be the next 3-4 days here. This really pisses me off that this is happening now. I guess it could be worse……I could be out riding with a bike that is gonna leave me stranded and possibly no cell service. I did a trip out to the Texas hill country earlier this year by myself and most of the time there was no cell service and very little traffic. Thanks for the help.

This morning I discovered the charging system on my 07 RSV was not working. After printing out Flyinfool’s instructions on how to check out the charging system I was ready to go. I cleaned up the battery terminal connections, charged both batteries, and inspected the fuse box and the starter relay. Relay looked in good condition compared to what I have seen in the past as I have had to replace it twice due to corrosion. Dielectric grease appeared to do its job. Stared the bike up and checked the voltage at the battery and had around 12.3 regardless of how fast the engine was running. Installed my spare battery with the same results. Removed the RR and did a diode test and they checked out. Note this was done with a digital VOM. Mfg is B&K model 2860A. Not a Fluke but a good meter. (paid $100.00) The next item to check was the 3 white wires going to ground. Set the meter to 20M ohms and all checked open. Next checked the resistance between each pair of wires. My lowest setting is 200 ohms and I got a reading of .8 all 3 pairs. The spec calls for .36-.48. Hmmm possible problem or the meter will not go low enough? Next test is to start the bike and hold it above 2000 RPM. As I don’t have any way to measure the RPM’s I hooked a pair of vice grips to the throttle grip and guesstimated 2000 RPM. 1-2 98 vac 2-3 92 vac 3-1 76 vac Hmm 1&2 look ok (close) 3 not so close. I did this earlier using the choke to speed the engine up and got 1-2 68 vac 2-3 64 vac 3-1 54 vac Hmm not so close. I have looked for the 3 white wires coming from the stator and can barely see them but I can not find the connector. I also started to take the cover off the L/H side of the engine to insp the stator. It appears the exhaust pipe is gonna have to come off to get it off. Will the oil have to be drained before this cover comes off? Is this looking like the stator may be bad? As I see it I need to find the connector for the wires coming from the stator (possible behind the cover for the stator?) and remove the cover and do a visual of the stator. Any comments on how I’m checking things or something else I might do would be most appreciated.

I turn up orange when looking at my location while online.