rougeray

The clicking you heard was the starter relay. Typically this is an indication the battery is low or there is a bad connection. IMO you have eliminated the battery. The positive connection on your battery has a cable connected to your starter relay. Check to see if that connection is clean at the relay. I think what you will find that the relay has become corroded to include the 30 amp main fuse. Pull it out clean if you can however be prepared to see it fall apart in you hands. This is a bear to get to so good luck.

. The clicking you heard was the starter relay. Typically this is an indication the battery is low or there is a bad connection. Clean battery connections then try again. The positive connection on your battery has a cable connected to your starter relay. Check to see if that connection is clean at the relay. I think what you will find that the relay has become corroded to include the 30 amp main fuse. Pull it out clean if you can however be prepared to see it fall apart in you hands. This is a bear to get to so good luck.

Go to "General Tech Talk" and there is a step by step check of the electrical systems. I had an 07 that the stator when bad I think around 80,000 miles. No extras that would put a strain on the stator it just went bad. I would start with the test at the very end where you check for the AC voltage from the stator. You have to disconnect the wire that connects to the rectafier regular aka R/R. Due the test. If there is a difference between the 3 legs that will be the problem. Go to YouTube and it has several posts that show you how to check. R/R still needs to be checked as it my be the reason the stator went bad. Let us know what you find out.

Absolutely....you either had a bad connection at the battery terminals, bad battery or your charging system isn't working. I suggest you get a volt ohm meter and check what voltage you are getting at the battery with the bike running at or around 1,000 rpm. Should be 13.5-14 vdc. BTW how old was your battery?

I'd say it's a good chance it's the valve cover gasket. Mine started leaking around the time for the second valve clearance check. Soooooim guessing around 50,000 miles.

I have replaced two on my 2007 with 90,000 miles. I put dielectric grease on the connections and haven't had any more problems. The first one came apart in my hands after I had removed it. That's a bear to change!

I'm just about ready to pull the trigger on one myself. I'm looking at the Slingshot SL Limited Edition.

Someone on the site recommended using an inspection mirror to check the oil level while sitting in the saddle on level ground. This works real well and is what I have started doing. The level in the coolent reservoir is fine. If you were to go ride the bike and get it hot and come back and check it, it will be somewhere between 1/2 & 3/4 full. Sooooo if you would have topped it off as the manual suggests the expanded coolent from the radiator would have forced the coolent in the reservoir out through the overflow tube and dumped on the ground. Should you be sitting at a stop light then go to pull off it could make for an interesting day. The level in the coolent reservoir should only be checked when bike is hot. & .

Full cold would be LOWER line on reservoir with bike on level ground standing straight up. If you use upper line cold when the bike gets hot (water expands) it will over fill reservoir and dump on the ground. Dumping antifreeze in front of rear tire is not a good idea.

Does it continually flash? The fuel gage is used as a trouble shooting tool when it flashes. I think it flashes to help trouble shoot two things, cruise control and the amount of fuel in the tank. If you go to the back of the service manual it lists the codes which causes the bar graft to flash. See if amount of flashes match the trouble shooting guide. Let us know what you find.

That is the supply fluid for the rear brake master cylinder. The line is never under pressure only gravity flow to the master cylinder. Now the line from the master cylinder to the the brake caliper is under pressure ONLY when the brake is applied. When the pedal is released the pressure goes to zero. &

I think everyone has answered your question concerning changing of the pads and changing the fluid in the clutch and brake reservoirs. I would like to emphasize that all of the hydraulic systems should be flushed at least once a year. This is easily accomplished by replacing the bleeder screws with Speedbleeders One other question though is how many miles on your bike? I have an 07 and have 90,000 on mine and the front brakes are still good. Had the front tire changed last week so I had to pull the front calipers and all looks good. I do live in the flatlands of south LA though. &

​I would think it would be prudent to also check the amount of current the blower is pulling. Burnt connections may be symptom of motor fixing to go out. &

I have forgotten to take the lift off more than once. However if the rod is inserted from the right side of the bike the rod prevents the kick stand from fully retracting. At that point it's back off the bike to remove the lift. I'm not sure if Carbon One intended it to do this in his design or if it was just an unintended consequence. 😜👍🍻

That had to be tough getting the lift installed on the left side of the bike. Meaning the bike will be on the kick stand which means it's leaning to the left. Laying down, holding the lift, aligning the lift with the center stand holes while fighting the kick stand then installing rod that attaches the lift to the bike. Much easer if rod is inserted from the right side of the bike. No kick stand to interfere with lifting, aligning then installing attachment rod. Just saying........

Just curious is it a new OEM R/R? If not is it the same physical size as the I assume OEM that you removed? The reason I ask is i purchased an aftermarket R/R and it was smaller than the OEM. Stator was my problem so I'm using the original OEM R/R. If you think changing the R/R was a bear be glad you didn't have do replace the stator!

Yeah, give us a picture. I would be interested in having a volt meter. Thanks.

Here's some info I took off the write up I did. I have no idea how fast the engine was running as I don't have a tach. but with the choke pulled out it was 68 vac, 64 vac & 54 vac. The other readings were with the engine wound up pretty good. “Next test is to start the bike and hold it above 2000 RPM. As I don’t have any way to measure the RPM’s I hooked a pair of vice grips to the throttle grip and guesstimated 2000 RPM. 1-2 98 vac 2-3 92 vac 3-1 76 vac Hmm 1&2 look ok (close) 3 not so close. I did this earlier using the choke to speed the engine up and got 1-2 68 vac 2-3 64 vac 3-1 54 vac Hmm not so close.

Do you have a tachometer on the bike? If so what RPM does the engine run when your going down the road in 4th gear getting ready to shift to 5th? I would think the output of stator would be more than 57 vac. What I have read the output should be close to 100 vac. I don't have a tac so I revved the engine up pretty high then locked the throttle down and got readings on two legs in the 90's and one around 76 vac. I guess at this point a new R/R is in order. In one of my write ups I had a picture of the new R/R I bought along with the OEM. The one I bought was not as big as the OEM soooo I don't have much faith that it would last very long. It only cost around $35.00 so that's an easy and cheap way to trouble shoot. BTW did you check the connection where the stator connects to the electrical harness? It's a BEAR to get too but it may be corroded thus giving the low reading at the connection from the harness to the R/R. Anyway let us know what you find out.

I would recommend checking the stator output using Flyinfool’s method called out in his procedure “TESTING FOR A BATTERY NOT CHARGING.” first. With the engine reved up check the AC output with a meter all three legs. No more than 5% difference between legs. That will tell you right up front if the stator is putting out. I had 98, 92 & 76 vac. Take a pair of vice grips and attach to the throttle to maintain a steady rpm. Then check the output all three legs.

I bought a stator from Ricks Motor Sports (21-412H) New Hot Shot Yamaha Stator. It was $160.00 with $28.51 shipping. So it is the high output stator and I'm using the OEM R/R. I think I installed it last February. Have not had any charging problems since. It's not an easy job to do so I don't recommend some cheap aftermarket replacement. I have no idea about the change for 08-13. I have an 07.

Why would you have check valves to prevent back flow from the carburetors? I can speak from experience as I own an 07. If you install a fuel pump that is not designed to prevent flow from the tank when the engine is not running and your floats are not shutting off the flow of gas when the bowls are full it will leak down and create a hydro lock period. I had it happen 3 times before I figured out what was happening. Luckily it did not bend a rod or break a piston. I cringe every time some one recommends one of the aftermarket fuel pumps such as the "Mister Gasket". They work fine as long as the floats are sealing. Facet 40171: from Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co. has a positive shut off when the key is turned off.

I have replaced the starter relay/main fuse assembly twice on my 07 RSV. Both times heavily corroded. The last time I applied dielectric grease liberally. I have know idea why it corrodes so badly. It is a bear to change due to its location. Below is a link to csdexter's fix. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/sh...=Starter+relay