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rougeray

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About rougeray

  • Birthday 04/22/1951

Personal Information

  • Name
    Ray White

location

  • Location
    Baton Rouge, LA, LA, United States

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  • City
    Baton Rouge, LA

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  • State/Province
    LA

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  • Home Country
    United States

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  • Bike Year and Model
    07 Midnight RSV
  1. The clicking you heard was the starter relay. Typically this is an indication the battery is low or there is a bad connection. IMO you have eliminated the battery. The positive connection on your battery has a cable connected to your starter relay. Check to see if that connection is clean at the relay. I think what you will find that the relay has become corroded to include the 30 amp main fuse. Pull it out clean if you can however be prepared to see it fall apart in you hands. This is a bear to get to so good luck.
  2. . The clicking you heard was the starter relay. Typically this is an indication the battery is low or there is a bad connection. Clean battery connections then try again. The positive connection on your battery has a cable connected to your starter relay. Check to see if that connection is clean at the relay. I think what you will find that the relay has become corroded to include the 30 amp main fuse. Pull it out clean if you can however be prepared to see it fall apart in you hands. This is a bear to get to so good luck.
  3. Go to "General Tech Talk" and there is a step by step check of the electrical systems. I had an 07 that the stator when bad I think around 80,000 miles. No extras that would put a strain on the stator it just went bad. I would start with the test at the very end where you check for the AC voltage from the stator. You have to disconnect the wire that connects to the rectafier regular aka R/R. Due the test. If there is a difference between the 3 legs that will be the problem. Go to YouTube and it has several posts that show you how to check. R/R still needs to be checked as it my be the reason the stator went bad. Let us know what you find out.
  4. Absolutely....you either had a bad connection at the battery terminals, bad battery or your charging system isn't working. I suggest you get a volt ohm meter and check what voltage you are getting at the battery with the bike running at or around 1,000 rpm. Should be 13.5-14 vdc. BTW how old was your battery?
  5. I'd say it's a good chance it's the valve cover gasket. Mine started leaking around the time for the second valve clearance check. Soooooim guessing around 50,000 miles.
  6. I have replaced two on my 2007 with 90,000 miles. I put dielectric grease on the connections and haven't had any more problems. The first one came apart in my hands after I had removed it. That's a bear to change!
  7. I'm just about ready to pull the trigger on one myself. I'm looking at the Slingshot SL Limited Edition.
  8. Someone on the site recommended using an inspection mirror to check the oil level while sitting in the saddle on level ground. This works real well and is what I have started doing. The level in the coolent reservoir is fine. If you were to go ride the bike and get it hot and come back and check it, it will be somewhere between 1/2 & 3/4 full. Sooooo if you would have topped it off as the manual suggests the expanded coolent from the radiator would have forced the coolent in the reservoir out through the overflow tube and dumped on the ground. Should you be sitting at a stop light then go to pull off it could make for an interesting day. The level in the coolent reservoir should only be checked when bike is hot. & .
  9. Full cold would be LOWER line on reservoir with bike on level ground standing straight up. If you use upper line cold when the bike gets hot (water expands) it will over fill reservoir and dump on the ground. Dumping antifreeze in front of rear tire is not a good idea.
  10. Does it continually flash? The fuel gage is used as a trouble shooting tool when it flashes. I think it flashes to help trouble shoot two things, cruise control and the amount of fuel in the tank. If you go to the back of the service manual it lists the codes which causes the bar graft to flash. See if amount of flashes match the trouble shooting guide. Let us know what you find.
  11. That is the supply fluid for the rear brake master cylinder. The line is never under pressure only gravity flow to the master cylinder. Now the line from the master cylinder to the the brake caliper is under pressure ONLY when the brake is applied. When the pedal is released the pressure goes to zero. &
  12. I think everyone has answered your question concerning changing of the pads and changing the fluid in the clutch and brake reservoirs. I would like to emphasize that all of the hydraulic systems should be flushed at least once a year. This is easily accomplished by replacing the bleeder screws with Speedbleeders One other question though is how many miles on your bike? I have an 07 and have 90,000 on mine and the front brakes are still good. Had the front tire changed last week so I had to pull the front calipers and all looks good. I do live in the flatlands of south LA though. &
  13. ​I would think it would be prudent to also check the amount of current the blower is pulling. Burnt connections may be symptom of motor fixing to go out. &
  14. I have forgotten to take the lift off more than once. However if the rod is inserted from the right side of the bike the rod prevents the kick stand from fully retracting. At that point it's back off the bike to remove the lift. I'm not sure if Carbon One intended it to do this in his design or if it was just an unintended consequence. 😜👍🍻
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