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I have CarbonOne's adapter. Never had trouble with that spring

Did that with a buddy in the early '70's. We didn't suspect carbon- just wanted to dump some water in to see what would happen. We poured tap water out of a Coke bottle into the carb until the exhaust manifolds glowed bright orange! There couldn't have been a flake of carbon in that small block chevy when we finished!

I think there is post or two about someone doing this. However with the proper zero release hand pump I find it fairly easy to hit the equal pressure in both.

The only time I have had oil in the places you describe is when the oil level is at or above midpoint on the site glass. You are checking it with the bike level and off the side stand, right?

Use a pry bar or if you have room, a 2x4, under the rear tire to lift it slightly to take tension off brackets.

Yea, I have not seen a video in a long time - The last one I saw was Puc's video when he found the broken yoke causing the noise in Tweek's driveline. I use IPad and IPhone

Glad I saw the last post. I had forgotten to reserve a room. Just called and Vernon Inn was full but was able to get in at Hickory Hill. Will see you Friday afternoon

Carbs out of sync can cause popping in the exhaust

I buy new each time and run them to 250,000 to 300,000. About 30,000 miles/yr. I have always had GM and no problems except had to replace a transmission in my last one (beyond warranty). Switched to Ford F150 with twin turbo V-6 for the current one. 65,000 miles in just over 2 years and no problems except had to replace lug nuts. I have found Ford has a problem with rust under the cheap tin cap on them causing them to swell and the lug wrench no longer fits. Went with aftermarket and no problems (after switching from some that rusted immediately from Rock Auto - 2 sets - same thing. Got my $ back just had to pay shipping)

I have the Craftsman jack and it works great with CarbonOne's adapter. If you get his adapter, also get the optional legs. I can't imagine working on the bike without that stand. I used to mess around with 2x4's and hockey pucks as spacers on the jack but they are not as sturdy as the adapter. And they with the legs you can pull the jack out from under it for all kinds of extra room to work.

Read this article over the weekend. I'm not supporting it or offering an opinion. Just sharing the article since it seemed to fit the discussion https://www.nbcnews.com/news/us-news/washington-could-become-first-state-legalize-human-composting-n952421

Niota, Illinois??? That's a tiny unincorporated village of less than 800 people along the Mississippi river. I was a few miles from there yesterday.

For what it’s worth, I have ordered three sets of car and truck tires in the past months with no problems at all. Installation is a little tougher as at least local to me, you cannot make an appointment for install. You show up the store and it’s first come first served. Sorry to break away from the oil topic.

I’m in the Peoria area most of the time and would look forward to a get together. Also, Mike’s Root Beer run has taken a detour this year and is going to be in Virginia this year.

Mine had 30,000+ Miles on it when I got rid of the bike.

If it looks dirt and rust free I just add it to one of our daily drivers, usually my truck. If there’s 10 gallons or so it will never know the difference. I have had a rusty tank and I add that to my five gallon container of waste oil

That pump doesn’t have the anti siphon. I had hydro lock with the OEM pump once. Fortunately no damage but I got in the habit of shutting off the fuel every time I turn the bike off. On another bike I used the 42s and had no problem

As long as you are disassembling for rebuild you use a grease gun. Plug the brake line inlet with a bolt of the correct thread. Open the bleeder screw and stick the grease gun on it and pump away. The grease will push the piston out. I usually use the brake system hydraulics as first choice and the more dangerous air pressure second but have used the grease gun too

I don’t know if it will help with this project but when you are searching you can use 1999 through 2013 model year. They were pretty much unchanged through the model run

Yea, I had an '80 Celica with louvers. Pain in the butt to keep clean

Another thought, I was prescribed a cuff that circulated ice water. It was great for those first few days. If it’s an option, go for it! It helps if you assistance in replenishing the ice water the first day and night because it needs it every few hours.

I had bone spurs ground down, rotator repair, and slight labrum repair a year ago this past Christmas. Surgery was on Thursday. Friday through Monday was spending most of the time in the recliner. Which by the way, is the only place to sleep after this surgery. It was 2 weeks before I was able to sleep in a bed. i have an office job and spend my days on a computer. I was able to work Tuesday afternoon and all day every day after that but it was from home. I only missed 3 1/2 days of work. It was about 10 days before I was driving to the office. I drive a full size pickup and with the left shoulder repaired I wasn’t comfortable pulling the door closed. My first physical therapy appointment was one week after the surgery and my wife had to take me to just that one. After that I went two times per week for maybe two months, possibly 6 weeks. Whatever I was assigned to do for exercises I had doubled the reps before the next appointment. I had been told by others that to recover completely to not slack off at all on the PT. It worked. I have full, if not more movement and strength than I had before. I have coworkers and a relative who slacked off and struggled to recover and have less movement/flexibility. We are all different and the surgeries vary so do what the Physical therapist tells you at minimum and follow his/her advice before going to the extremes I did. Since this was done over the winter it didn’t interfere with bike riding, clearing brush, and a complete remodel of a kitchen and two bathrooms starting in May. i was humbled when I had a flat tire on my truck 3 weeks after the surgery and had to call for someone to change it for me. Never before watched someone work on something for me in my 60+ years. I wish well with your surgery. Those first days will be tough but it will be worth it

I remove, clean, and repack my steering head bearings and swing arm bearings every 16,000 - 20,000 miles. On my second gen it was a little more critical the first time because Yamaha was notorious for having almost no grease on either at assembly. Steering head one weekend and swing arm the following. I do it in the winter when I am not interfering with riding. I enjoy the work and the confidence there will be no or few surprises during the riding season. All bolts are torqued to spec and all components removed are cleaned and polished at reassembly. My 4 wheel vehicles are maintained at the manufacturer intervals - not the “dealer recommendations “. But in my advancing years these vehicles are serviced at the dealership. But I do have them convinced they must allow me in the shop as the work is performed.

Not sure the brand of mine but it looks just like yours. It’s my second one and they last several years. I have a new F150 extended cab now and the same cover fit my previous GMC. The GMC had 250,000 miles and the second cover was moved to the Ford which now has 50,000. We had 5 inches of heavy wet snow last week and it didn’t have any affect on it. My truck stays outside 100% of the time. I have a spray in bed liner and have no trouble with tailgate. Mine has the step in the gate and power remote. I can use the fob to open the gate and 99% of the time the gate drops open with no assist. The current cover has one small issue. When opening back upon itself, the clamps to secure it drop down and the threaded bolts are pointed downward. There is potential of them poking holes in the vinyl. They are a friction fit to snap up horizontally but this is worn out. Sometime soon I am going to 3D print a couple of small retainers to secure them.

In addition to adding the relay to the passing lamp circuit you can remove even more load from the problematic ignition switch. We have a member who produces and sells a relay set up to further take load off the switch. Very simple to install