Prairiehammer

CV carburetors have the reputation being, unlike non-CV carbs, altitude compensating. That is, their mixture ratios do not change dramatically with altitude. A CV carbed machine can be ridden at 12,000 feet with nary an evident mixture change. That is because pressure differential, the principle that raises the slide, is the same proportion no matter than altitude. The pressures are different, but the proportions of each to each other are the same. This does not mean however that CV carburetor equipped bikes will not lose power at altitude. They will. But it is because of a lack of oxygen to fill the cylinders and provide combustion pressure, not due to any significant changes in air/fuel mixture. Obviously, if the diaphragm or slide is leaking vacuum, the pressure differential (Delta P) will be affected whether at altitude or not.

At first glance, the hole in the slide seems counter intuitive. Especially if you think the sole vacuum source is outboard of the diaphragm. However, if you consider the primary vacuum source is the venturi, then the hole in the slide becomes obvious. When there is high velocity through the carb throat, a vacuum is forming outboard of the diaphragm due to the low pressure at the throat, causing the slide to move outboard, lifting the needle. If the diaphragm is leaking, whether due to pinholes (less detriment, but still a detriment to pulling a vacuum) or tears ( a larger vacuum leak, thus more detrimental) then the vacuum pulled by the low pressure in the throat, through the vacuum port in the slide is reduced and the slide does not lift as much because the weak vacuum cannot overcome the spring. The key point is where the vacuum to lift the slide is originating. It is originating from the venturi. http://www.chinesescooterreference.com/manual_images/CV_Carb_Diagram.gif

It is not recommended to use Loctite threadlocker on fasteners near plastic. The base chemical in Loctite is methacrylate ester. This chemical will soften or deteriorate most thermoplastics, such as PVC and ABS. This ABS destruction has been well documented as a consequence when used on motorcycle fasteners adjacent to plastic parts. From the manufacturer of Loctite (I would amend their warning to read "will likely result"): Not Recommended For Use on plastic parts, particularly thermoplastic materials where stress cracking of the plastic could result

The concept is valid, but can you execute it?

Heather, I have a pair of stock Venture horns, complete with VentureLine chrome covers. Since I owe a "Pay It Forward", they are yours for the asking.

Note that there are no "chokes" as in a carb throat butterfly choke. The enricheners on the Venture carbs are just that, enricheners. Instead of restricting air flow through the venturi, the enricheners actually add fuel to the carb throat. When you say: "all 4 appear to be completely open" do you mean that the enrichener plungers are pushed in fully (closed) or that the enrichener plungers are pulled out fully (open)? One turn out on the pilot screws should be quite lean. Normally, the pilot screws are 2½ turns out or so. The further the pilot screw is turned out, the richer. Check your float bowl fuel level. It may be too high, creating a rich condition. Also, the coasting enrichment diaphragms may be defective.

Can't tell what is supposed to do, but it sure looks like one half of an inline fuse holder. Is the end opposite of the spring connected to the battery? Or to some accessory? In other words; is the coil spring energized? A fuse holder similar to this: http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/user/products/large/glass_holder_30-32mm_8A_1.jpg

Twigg and a couple of others had the same complaint: couldn't go faster than 80-85 mph. In all those cases, the carb diaphragms (usually just one or two) were holed or ripped at the edge. One also had a sticky slide. Cleaned up and was good.

Did you download the GDT.ttf file and install it? Then I opened a new Word document and selected the GDT font from the Word font drop down list. Using the 'key' in the downloaded Word document, I was able to generate all the symbols.

Check here: https://www.lftechsupport.com/web/qualitytools/14

I've seen two brands. Swivel Safe II is the most common. I had one on my Dart cargo trailer. Get it here: http://www.openroadoutfitters.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=65_73&zenid=40vmt9pi5j4j6u36bu305tgrd1 The other isn't branded as far as I can tell, but one can purchase it here: http://www.mchitch.com/Trailer_Coupler_Swivel_Adpater_2_inch.htm

No problem for me. That's why we call you "The Boss".

Does it or does it not crank?

If the now redundant side stand was removed, perhaps the PO has also jumpered the side stand safety switch and that jumper has loosened. Or the side stand safety switch was left in place but some cobbling was performed to fool the side stand switch. And this presumed switch bypass has failed. The fuse itself may be good, but it is very common for the fuse holder clips to become weak or broken. Often these clips appear fine, but are too weak to make a good connection at the fuse. Check for voltage on either side of the fuse, probing the crimped portion of the fuse holder clip. There should be same voltage on either side of the fuse. If not, then suspect a bad fuse holder clip. Many have replaced the glass fuse block with ATC/ATO fuse block.

Yes, the white wire with a red stripe is the lead that sends the electrolyte level sensor signal to the CMS. DO NOT connect full battery voltage to the white/red wire (as apparently the PO did). You need to insert a resistor inline between a 12 volt source and the sensor lead to extinguish the battery electrolyte level warning light. The old tried and true method called for a 2.2K ohm resistor, but some have maintained that the resistor value should be 22K ohm to mimic the original sensor voltage. Either value will work. Hopefully, there was no permanent damage done to the CMS because of the excessive voltage.

You may have gotten water into the ambient noise sensing microphone.

Which four have you removed? IMHO, there is a need to remove just two jets (main jet and pilot jet), plus the main bleed pipe and the pilot screw. The rest of the jets are air jets (pilot air jet #1, pilot air jet #2, main air jet, purge jet #1, purge jet #2). The air jets have never had fuel in them, thus are not going to be gummed up. A shot of spray carb cleaner through the air jets should suffice. The needle jet passes fuel/air mixture, but the jet orifice is so large as to rarely require cleaning. You may find that the two rubber plugs fitted into the jet block require replacement. Often the rubber ages and becomes non-compliant (hard) and some shrinkage.

You can still buy them new from Yamaha. $$$104.99 New OEM from Boats.net are $67.38 Can't help you concerning aftermarket, never looked for any, but I suspect there are some. The ignition coil is same for these Yamaha models: 1983-1993 Venture, 1985-2007 V-Max, 1987 SRX250, 1984-2001 Riva 125, 1983-1985 Riva 180, 1987-1990 Riva 200. You might consider converting to "Coil Over/On Plug" (COP). Dingy on this site has the writeup on such. Another Venture Rider did a COP conversion as well. Can't remember who that was.

A full report on Full Bore tires, Pucs perspective... ________________________________________ I know most of you have already found the perfect tires for your bikes and stick to whatever brand that may be and I TOTALLY get that. However, I tend to enjoy living a little more dangerously (another flaw in my character) and like knowing first hand whether or not things are as advertised. Yep, even in tires. That said, I have had my share of flat tires; know firsthand that sick feeling of a flat tire on a loaded tour bike; have had to change tires in some less than desirable places, with less than desirable tools; that’s all part of the adventure we call motorcycle touring. And I have had to pay the price of being bent over by an out of town bike shop rip off artist charging 3 times the price for a stinking 404, too. Not fun, but that’s life on the road. Conversely, I’ve also had the privilege of dealing with places like Jim’s in Johnson City, Tennessee. He sold me a Dunlop E2 at dealer cost and gave me the grand tour of their upstairs bike museum because he felt as bad about the piece of steel going thru my brand new Shinko as I did. Or maybe, he just liked Tippy ‘n me. Experiencing the good with the bad makes for a GREAT trip, especially if you focus on the good and let the bad take care of itself; a mind game some folks can’t win. If you’re still reading this commentary, you are probably a little like me: interested in what’s out there in less expensive, good value tires. Or, maybe you are some sicko waiting to hear about some wacko biker who fell off his bike ‘cause he chose to try another cheap tire. (Lord, I hope that ain’t the case!) Regardless of why you are reading this, PLEASE READ THROUGH THE ENTIRE STORY BELOW. DON’T QUIT HALF WAY. THIS IS IMPORTANT! Back in May, just before heading west, I stuck a brand new Metzeler 880 on the rear of the bike. I have made several trips to the west coast and have NEVER had a rear tire survive the torture of my desert touring. My experience has been one tire to get out there and another tire to get back home. I have used everything from Avon to Pirellis and they all seem to come in the same. None of tires seemed to like the desert heat like I do! The Metzeler was amazing in its wear. By the time we got to Sacramento it still had 1/3 of its tread left! I was VERY impressed. Acknowledging that I had to go back home at some point, I ordered another tire; however, I had enough confidence in the Metz to complete our tour of Oregon and Washington before replacing it. Before leaving The Dalles and the VentureWest Rally, I inspected both my tires, as well as my dear friend, Sergeant Coffey’s tires, because I love him. The Metz looked good with very little additional wear on it. Tip and I returned to Sacramento the long way, had fun getting a little lost and rode some HOT pavement. What I discovered when we got back GAVE ME THE CREEPS! The Metzeler had shed its outer core like a dog sheds water! There had been NO WARNING! PLEASE REREAD THAT AND REMEMBER WHAT I JUST WROTE! Have you ever seen those chunks of truck tires laying on the highway? I was always told they come from retreads. What I saw under the protruding tread of the Metz, made me wonder if “Metzeler” and “retreads” are synonymous. Shortly after discovering the tire condition, I posted some pics of the failure. A very close friend with outstanding mechanical ability responded to that post with a learned warning about Metzeler Tires. Squidley commented about an experience he and Lonna had that sounded almost life threatening. I’m paraphrasing here: “Stay the heck away from Metzeler tires! Never again!” I have to say, Squidley, I am there with you. That was one ugly situation developing with that Metz! Before we had left for The Dalles, I had jumped online and looked for my next tire to torture. I noticed a brand called “Full Bore” for a very reasonable price, about 75 bucks shipped. I called the folks at JCCYCLE and inquired about the load capacity of the 140 size touring tire from Full Bore. The tech said the book stated 903 pounds; sounded good to me! Got back online and ordered one. When we returned from Venturewest, (with my retread coming apart), the Full Bore was waiting. I used C-clamps, a wedge and a sledge hammer to break the bead on the Metz, (stay away from the wheel if you ever try this). I opened the box containing the new Full Bore and immediately discovered that the load capacity on the tire stated 756 pounds. Bummer dude. However, the tire looked beefy and was made in Korea (better than china IMHO). WHAT TO DO? WHAT TO DO? Finally, I decided: “What da heck, what da hay, give it try”. The worst that could happen is it will fall apart from the heat and I will be stuck paying three times the price for another Dunlop 404, OR, OTOH, maybe find another Jims! I kept a VERY close eye on the FULL BORE! From the heat of the Utah desert to the elevation changes of Glacier, through the back country dirt roads of Montana and up the twisties of the Black Hills, IT DID GREAT! I checked air pressure every morning cold and it was consistent. I was and am impressed! Sitting in the garage now, after completing its mission, the Full Bore has less tread than the Metzeler when it came apart and yet it cost less than half of what I paid for the Metz, it handled the twisties really well (I don’t ride like some of you hard riders, but I do tend to lean her down once in a while) and it got Tippy and me home safely after a very fun ride! I know all of you are bored to death by now, but I must put a plug in here for these cheap Conti Tours, too. I had a chance to grab a couple front mount Contis this past Spring for about 70 bucks each, shipped. I AM GLAD I GRABBED EM! I installed one of the Conti Tours on the front before we left. WOW, that tire endured the arduous trip and is showing no sign of dipping, cupping or funny wear. The Conti held the road great and still has some of its little mold nips between the tread! AMAZING! Dragonrider, if you read all this, you probably know I typed it on the tablet; sorry for any mistakes, feel free to correct any typos you find. Tips and my daughter took the laptop away from me... Get out and wear out some tires folks! Puc

The red wire attached to the positive battery terminal is not safe. The cut end could short to the frame and with no fuse, there would be a risk of melted wire or battery damage. The red wire is not OEM. It is presumably a 12 volt tap for a previous owner installed accessory. The reason your battery low electrolyte warning light is on, is because the battery electrolyte level sensor is missing or disconnected.

Thanks for the trip report. What a trip, eh? Memories! "Guess who".

Yes, most of the jets in the Venture (Mikuni) carbs have embossed numbers. But, Mikuni jets are not labeled with the jet opening diameter. The number on a Mikuni jet reflects flow capability, not diameter. It is unlikely that you would need to replace the jets, unless someone has tampered and/or messed with them. The one possible exception MIGHT be a totally un-cleanable pilot jet. The Service Manual has all the jets and their sizes listed, if you need to replace them.

The common "rebuild kit" parts are gaskets/O-rings as well as float valve seat and needle. These particular parts are usually in a kit. The kit will suffice for all First Gen carbs, irrespective of year. George has the best price for these kits: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-86-07-VMAX-CARB-KIT-VMX1200-V-MAX-83-93-XVZ13-VENTURE-VENTURE-ROYALE-/191236302711?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AVmax+1200&hash=item2c86926777&vxp=mtr If, you are in need of jets, then that is a different story. Jets varied over the years/models.

Good find, Bill. You can get them here as well for a lot less money. Also, try this google search for a multitude of hits: https://www.google.com/search?q=Two+Hole+Base+Twist+Stud&client=firefox-a&hs=zzE&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=rcs&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=3Ba8U8_qPI6zyATe2ILIDA&ved=0CEQQsAQ&biw=1876&bih=965&dpr=0.9#imgdii=_

It appears that 4XY-26312-00-00 has been superseded by 4XY-26312-10-00. But, neither of those part numbers match up to a Tour Deluxe; your stated part numbers are for the Venture. According to the microfiche, a 2007 Tour Deluxe requires 1D6-26312-00-00 or 1D6-26311-00-00 for upper throttle cables. If you are looking for the lower throttle cables, the 'fiche calls for 4XY-26313-00-00 and 4XY-2631J-00-00 All of the above available.