Prairiehammer

The filter is identical, same part number. http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-4X7-2149Y-00-00.html And yes, the outlet of the airbox drain on the '83 is just in front of the engine, left of the oil filter.

I've crossed back and forth several times and have never been asked for proof of ownership. However, I HAVE been asked to show proof of insurance valid IN Canada. Before any trip into Canada, I've obtained a 'Canadian insurance card' from my insurance company. But all that is moot if you don't have a passport or passport card. As Brian says; Canada may let you in and out, but the US won't let you back in without a passport. And there is probably not enough time for you to get a passport before Pork in the Pines. BTW, congratulations on finally finding your 'birth' bike.

Yes, of course, you are correct, Neil. I had a mental lapse, and was mixing up the check valve in the vacuum line from number two carb to the boost sensor with the filter in the '83-'84 airbox drain line. Rather curious that the filter that is on the '83 drain line is identical to the filter on the RSV. The oil drain hose does not make a mess on the RSV? I think the oily discharge was the reason the airbox drain was changed on the First Gen, starting with 1985. Then Yamaha reverted to the same drain and filter for the 1999?

:no-no-no: http://www.laramyk.com/resources/education/dispensing/the-dangers-of-night-driving-glasses/ The Dangers of Night Driving Glasses It is an all too common misconception that yellow tinted or yellow polarized night driving glasses are beneficial for night time driving. The thought is, the yellow or amber color reduces glare and improves contrast. However, in reality, when driving at night or dusk in already limited lighting conditions, ANY tint further reduces the amount of light transmitted to the eye, and consequently, further impairs vision. The problem is compounded as the yellow tint gives the wearer the impression they are seeing better, when in fact the reverse is actually true. “Yellow ‘Night Driving’ lenses have been shown to provide no benefit in seeing ability at night. They are even hazardous, because they give the driver a feeling of seeing better, which no one has yet been able to explain. Studies have shown that they actually impair visual performance and retard glare recovery. Many promoters have made unfounded claims for the ability of amber to improve night vision. They have employed mass solicitation, usually by mail. The Federal Trade Commission has correctly ruled that such practices are illegal since the lenses do not perform as claimed.” – Forensic Aspects of Vision and Highway Safety”, Merrill J. Allen, O.D., Ph.D., Et al. While yellow lenses can be effective for foggy or hazy daylight conditions, they are not effective against headlight glare and should not be worn at dusk or night. If glare from headlights is a problem, the first step should be a thorough eye examination, as this could be an early indication of cataracts or other medical conditions. “So-called night driving glasses are generally amber tinted eyewear meant to reduce the glare of oncoming headlights. While they may make the driver feel more comfortable, they also reduce the wearers visibility of the darker portions of the roadway.” – Sunglass Association of America The best option for night time driving is a pair of spectacles with clear lenses and an AR coating. The AR coating is beneficial in two ways. First, it minimizes internal reflections within the lenses, reducing halo problems, and second, it increases the transmittance of light through the lens to the eye. However, it is important to note, if a patient does not normally wear spectacles, AR coated lenses, or any other type of night driving glasses will not improve night vision, as AR coatings only minimize aberrations that are inherent in ophthalmic lenses and night driving glasses will simply serve to introduce those abberations to the wearer’s vision. Tips for optimal night time driving vision: - Make sure eyes are examined regularly - Always wear an up-to-date prescription - Lenses worn should be clear with an AR coating - Ensure lenses are clean - Ensure windshield is clean - Ensure headlights are clean and properly aligned Responsible dispensers of ophthalmic lenses should discourage the use of tinted, polarized, or photochromic lenses in night time or dusk driving conditions and not participate in solicitation or marketing of so-called night driving glasses by irresponsible manufacturers.

On an unmolested First Gen, there are TWO hoses connected to the airbox; a larger hose that is connected to the 'twinky' at the bottom and to the rear of the airbox at the top and a smaller hose that connects to a small nipple at left front corner of the airbox and to a T-fitting in the large hose just above the twinky. The large hose is the crankcase ventilation (think PCV, Positive Crankcase Ventilation on your car). The smaller hose is the drain back hose for accumulated oil in the airbox. On the early Ventures, this small hose did not connect to the larger hose and there was no T in the larger hose. On those early Ventures the airbox drain was to the ground through a check valve. Yamaha issued a TSB to eliminate the airbox draining to the ground and route the airbox accumulated oil to a new T in the crankcase ventilation hose.

How many miles on the Venture? I mean, the OEM went how long? I would think the EBC will last even longer.

I'd replace with the semi-floating. Like MasterGuns says, the OEM is an aluminum spider with semi-floating rotor. Almost identical with the EBC one. Just curious: why do you have to replace your rear rotor?

Rod, make sure it is a relay problem and not just a flaky switch. If it is a bad fan relay, any common Bosch type relay should suffice. I presume you removed the wire lead from the thermoswitch and are using your added switch exclusively? Manual operation of the fan ?

:rotf::rotf::rotf::rotf::rotf::rotf::rotf:

Here is the link to the radio in question. You are right...cheap! It only has 3 watts output. Prolly wouldn't drive most speakers without a lot of distortion. http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjIwWDYyMA==/z/RXwAAOxycmBS0Pex/$_12.JPG Here is the apparently same radio without the speakers. http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTAyNFgxMjgw/z/6kIAAOSwQItT0f8p/$_57.JPG I say.

Well, I looked because I thought someone may have had a question about a First Gen radio available on eBay. A very vague title in the Watering Hole is going to entice a lot of lookers. Then, after reading your description, I still don't know what you are talking about, but since you have an RSTD, and I don't know anything about the Royal Star, I just moved on. Perhaps that is what 74 other lookers did? Provide a link to the 'ebay radio' and you may get some answers. Many don't know what you are looking for.

Randy, I believe the lower pull cable is 'number 3'. It is different from 'number 4' because 'number 3' has an adjuster on the carb end. For your 1983, the part number for 'number 3' is 26H-26313-00-00, but of course it is obsolete. If you are seeking the 'number 3' cable for the 1985, the part number is 41V-26313-00-00, and it is listed as available on Boats.net. But, I suspect that you are looking for the 1983 cables, right? I know you frequent eBay a lot, so you have probably seen this 1983 complete throttle cable set (all four cables with junction union). I couldn't see any fraying on this set. Cheap too! Here's another set, again looks good and it too is inexpensive.

The CLASS pressures can be inconsistent if one checks the pressure while the bike is on the sidestand or while upright on the tires. To eliminate that possibility, always check the pressure while on the centerstand (as recommended by Yamaha). A setting of say, 40psi while unloaded on the centerstand, might read 70 psi when the bike is upright with the rider sitting astride. While diagnosing the CLASS, be consistent, and do the pressure checks on the centerstand. BTW, are you using the MANUAL setting or the AUTO setting?

Bill, your pictured mirror has been 'modified'. I have a new in the box mirror and there are no nuts on it. All there is on my mirror is a short (1/4") threaded portion of a screw showing. No nut.

It is rare that the compressor is bad. MUCH MORE likely that the CLASS controller circuit board has faulty (cold) solder joints. The 'E1' and 'E4' error codes are indicative of a bad (but repairable) controller board.

The service manual specifies 60 grams (2.1 ounces) of desiccant.

Regarding the torque on the valve stem: the Yamaha service manual specifies just 1.1 ft/lb on that valve stem nut. So yeah, I'll bet many a tire technician has over torqued it. Most of us are pretty ham fisted.

Yes. All First Gen left mirrors are the same. All First Gen right mirrors are the same. Right and left are not interchangeable, though.

The MKI and MKII were available in Europe without the trunk. I'm not certain, but it (the trunk) may have been an accessory, to be purchased at the option of the buyer. At least it appears that the trunk was not included as standard for some of the time the Venture was offered in Europe. Note the color of the MKI immediately below. That color wasn't offered in the US or Canada until the 1991 Black "Tuxedo". Also note the MKII anti-dive on the MKI. Notice, too that that MKI has CLASS, but no radio or CB and it is not a Royale.

Rich, I would still attempt to dry it by putting in the low oven. What can it hurt? And you may find that all is good after the drying.

There HAVE been some reports of oil from the forks migrating into the CLASS air lines, but ordinarily this happens after an upset of the bike (laying on its side). Even then, it would be unlikely to travel all the way to the valve body and then through the closed solenoid valves into the desiccant canister. The rear shock could fail internally and perhaps pump an oily mist into the dryer canister, but once again the oil would have to pass through a lot of plumbing and the valve body to get to the dryer. Perhaps, some misguided previous owner tried to lubricate the compressor and succeeded in pumping the lubricant into the silica gel. The compressor is an oil less pump, BTW. On a similar vein, perhaps the PO thought the compressor intake filter might require some additional filtering capability (ala K&N filters) and oiled the foam filter there. If heating and drying the silica gel does not remove the 'oil' and return it to it's dry color (blue), then one should probably replace the old desiccant with new.

Took me awhile (had to wait for the developer), but here are a couple shots from the Root Beer Run.

As I said, not all synthetic oils are recommended for a motorcycle. Even Amsoil and Mobil1 have different synthetic oils within their synthetic product line, with some motorcycle compatible, some are air cooled motorcycle compatible, some are specified for liquid cooled with wet clutch, etc. Not all synthetics are compatible for motorcycles, wet clutch or dry clutch, air cooled or liquid. And on the point of howl and shear properties, several members here have tried synthetic oils in their Second Gens only to discover the infamous whine is intolerable and have returned to conventional oil to quiet down the whine.

While hose length is important in a hydraulic ram system, where copious amounts of liquid are being pumped to and fro; on a hydraulic brake system, there is virtually no volumetric transfer. One is simply applying pressure to the incompressible liquid filling the hoses and calipers. The actual movement of liquid through the system is inconsequential. So, no, the unequal hose lengths are not very important. Consider the fact that brake lines on an automobile are not of equal length.

The guy must have been living in the past, the long ago past! There have been no 'chapters' as he called them since the break-up of the Venture Touring Society. The Venturers.org actually originated as a defacto chapter of the defunct VTS. And the VentureRider.org founder was a founding member of the Venturers. Perhaps that guy was confused? Or, like some of us who came of age in the Sixties and can't remember the Sixties, just can't remember that era or that it ever ended. I hear confusion is a prerequisite to be in the Star organization.