Prairiehammer

Randy, I believe the lower pull cable is 'number 3'. It is different from 'number 4' because 'number 3' has an adjuster on the carb end. For your 1983, the part number for 'number 3' is 26H-26313-00-00, but of course it is obsolete. If you are seeking the 'number 3' cable for the 1985, the part number is 41V-26313-00-00, and it is listed as available on Boats.net. But, I suspect that you are looking for the 1983 cables, right? I know you frequent eBay a lot, so you have probably seen this 1983 complete throttle cable set (all four cables with junction union). I couldn't see any fraying on this set. Cheap too! Here's another set, again looks good and it too is inexpensive.

The CLASS pressures can be inconsistent if one checks the pressure while the bike is on the sidestand or while upright on the tires. To eliminate that possibility, always check the pressure while on the centerstand (as recommended by Yamaha). A setting of say, 40psi while unloaded on the centerstand, might read 70 psi when the bike is upright with the rider sitting astride. While diagnosing the CLASS, be consistent, and do the pressure checks on the centerstand. BTW, are you using the MANUAL setting or the AUTO setting?

Bill, your pictured mirror has been 'modified'. I have a new in the box mirror and there are no nuts on it. All there is on my mirror is a short (1/4") threaded portion of a screw showing. No nut.

It is rare that the compressor is bad. MUCH MORE likely that the CLASS controller circuit board has faulty (cold) solder joints. The 'E1' and 'E4' error codes are indicative of a bad (but repairable) controller board.

The service manual specifies 60 grams (2.1 ounces) of desiccant.

Regarding the torque on the valve stem: the Yamaha service manual specifies just 1.1 ft/lb on that valve stem nut. So yeah, I'll bet many a tire technician has over torqued it. Most of us are pretty ham fisted.

Yes. All First Gen left mirrors are the same. All First Gen right mirrors are the same. Right and left are not interchangeable, though.

The MKI and MKII were available in Europe without the trunk. I'm not certain, but it (the trunk) may have been an accessory, to be purchased at the option of the buyer. At least it appears that the trunk was not included as standard for some of the time the Venture was offered in Europe. Note the color of the MKI immediately below. That color wasn't offered in the US or Canada until the 1991 Black "Tuxedo". Also note the MKII anti-dive on the MKI. Notice, too that that MKI has CLASS, but no radio or CB and it is not a Royale.

Rich, I would still attempt to dry it by putting in the low oven. What can it hurt? And you may find that all is good after the drying.

There HAVE been some reports of oil from the forks migrating into the CLASS air lines, but ordinarily this happens after an upset of the bike (laying on its side). Even then, it would be unlikely to travel all the way to the valve body and then through the closed solenoid valves into the desiccant canister. The rear shock could fail internally and perhaps pump an oily mist into the dryer canister, but once again the oil would have to pass through a lot of plumbing and the valve body to get to the dryer. Perhaps, some misguided previous owner tried to lubricate the compressor and succeeded in pumping the lubricant into the silica gel. The compressor is an oil less pump, BTW. On a similar vein, perhaps the PO thought the compressor intake filter might require some additional filtering capability (ala K&N filters) and oiled the foam filter there. If heating and drying the silica gel does not remove the 'oil' and return it to it's dry color (blue), then one should probably replace the old desiccant with new.

Took me awhile (had to wait for the developer), but here are a couple shots from the Root Beer Run.

As I said, not all synthetic oils are recommended for a motorcycle. Even Amsoil and Mobil1 have different synthetic oils within their synthetic product line, with some motorcycle compatible, some are air cooled motorcycle compatible, some are specified for liquid cooled with wet clutch, etc. Not all synthetics are compatible for motorcycles, wet clutch or dry clutch, air cooled or liquid. And on the point of howl and shear properties, several members here have tried synthetic oils in their Second Gens only to discover the infamous whine is intolerable and have returned to conventional oil to quiet down the whine.

While hose length is important in a hydraulic ram system, where copious amounts of liquid are being pumped to and fro; on a hydraulic brake system, there is virtually no volumetric transfer. One is simply applying pressure to the incompressible liquid filling the hoses and calipers. The actual movement of liquid through the system is inconsequential. So, no, the unequal hose lengths are not very important. Consider the fact that brake lines on an automobile are not of equal length.

The guy must have been living in the past, the long ago past! There have been no 'chapters' as he called them since the break-up of the Venture Touring Society. The Venturers.org actually originated as a defacto chapter of the defunct VTS. And the VentureRider.org founder was a founding member of the Venturers. Perhaps that guy was confused? Or, like some of us who came of age in the Sixties and can't remember the Sixties, just can't remember that era or that it ever ended. I hear confusion is a prerequisite to be in the Star organization.

As for the hijack concerning synthetic oil and leaks, consider this opinion: Myths about Synthetic Oils The most often cited myth concerning synthetic oil is that it will wear down the seals in your engine and cause leaks. That just isn't true. Well, for the most part, anyway. Like many myths, this one is based in fact. Early synthetics were made of esters, which were harder on seals, especially those made of neoprene. However, synthetic oils have come a long way since the early 1970s, and they're much nicer to delicate seals. But while synthetic oil won't create a leak, it will find one. Its streamlined molecular structure has no mercy for cracked or otherwise marginal seals. The oil and its additives may even clean deposits from the engine, which is good -- unless those deposits are acting like spackle on questionable seals. Related to this is the myth that if you started with mineral oil in your car, you can't switch to synthetic oil. As long as your engine's seals are in decent shape, you can switch back and forth to your heart's content. You can mix and match, you can use blended synthetic and mineral oil or you can use mineral oil for 3,000 miles (4,828 kilometers) and synthetic oil for the next 5,000 miles (8,047 kilometers). You could even fill your reservoir with five different oils from five different manufacturers, and as long as they're the same weight, it will do your engine no harm, according to David Canitz, technical services manager at Royal Purple.

Not all Amsoil is compatible with our motorcycles. If he insists on using Amsoil or ANY synthetic oil, make sure it is approved by the oil manufacturer for use with a motorcycle. Not all are approved. Some synthetic oil manufacturers specifically state NOT for motorcycle use. Is it safe to use Valvoline SynPower in a motorcycle with a wet clutch? No. Valvoline SynPower oils are not approved for use with a wet clutch. http://www.valvoline.com/faqs/motor-oil/full-synthetic-motor-oil/

The only time I ever messed with the desiccant on my Venture was to dry it out and it didn't look anything like yours when I removed it. My desiccant was more granular/angular and dry. Your oily looking spheres look unusual. Perhaps someone has already replaced the OEM desiccant with something else. Some silica gel desiccants are spherical. Some silica gels are 'non-indicating', meaning the crystals or spheres do not change color as the crystals absorb moisture. Try drying it out in a low heat oven (175°) for a couple hours and see if the color changes to blue and the oiliness is gone. If so, then replace the renewed spheres/crystals into the canister, making sure to sift out the fines. Sometimes the fines will get past foam filter and clog or jam the CLASS control valving. As for the deteriorating foam, seek some replacement filtering media and cut a disc of it and use that new filter in place of the crummy old one. This particular filter is just to keep the silica gel from migrating into the valve body, so any 'screen' of a suitable density should work. There is another filter at the intake of the compressor. Is this the foam that you show? If THAT filter has deteriorated, again find a suitable replacement, but the goal is to filter the intake air, so it should be a finer filter than the one intended to retain the silica gel.

There is a difference between Ride-On® brand and some other tire sealants, such as Slime®. Slime® is not recommended for our old aluminum wheels. Says so on THEIR website. Ride-On® IS safe for our aluminum wheels. Says so on THEIR website. As for the future tire changes, people I've spoken with who have used Ride-ON® find that tire changes are not affected and that the Ride-On® has not fouled the rims. YMMV. Point is: don't confuse different tire sealants. I think Ride-On® is the only one of the sealants that claims to balance the tire.

On my Venture there is no delay. The fuel gauge immediately shows the actual level when the ignition is switched on. No flickering. No fluctuating. Currently my tank shows three bars.

Beads worked for me.

Umm. Eck, I don't think it has started yet... July 27 through July 31, 2014

Western Kansas is nothing like Eastern Kansas. Eastern Kansas has HILLS (Flint Hills)! Western Kansas is why everyone thinks Kansas is flat.

Barring any intermittent ground or loose connection, the fuel level sensor should read 30Ω or less when tank is full, 160-180Ω when half full and 300Ω or more when tank is empty. As you see, if a connection is lost, the CMS thinks that the fuel tank is empty (300Ω+). I would revisit all the points you checked before, paying particular attention to the green/white wire and it's associated connections. Cleaning the fuel level sensor requires removing the metal box around the resistance coil. If you did so, make sure that you didn't inadvertently ground the resistance coil. Also double check that the resistance coil in the fuel sensor is making good contact to the wiper throughout the range of the float arm. Confirm that the fuel level sensor indicates the above noted readings. There have been instances where the fuel level sensor resistance coil armature is deformed. The result is an apparent empty fuel tank. Examine again the ohm readings through out the range. It should be linear.

After you replaced the ignition switch, did you restore the wiring to what it was before the bypass? If you are going to continue to use the bypass along with the new ignition switch, make sure that the bypass didn't get messed up. And is ON.

If you are just replacing the spark plug wires, there is no need to remove the coils. I removed the battery box and was able to replace the secondary (spark plug high tension) wires without removing the coils. If you HAVE to remove the coils for some other reason, then you will probably have to remove the fairings, both inner and outer.