Prairiehammer

Sometimes there are a few on eBay. But usually not complete or OEM. I removed mine and replaced it with a Firestick with a folding base. Mine was missing the ball at the tip and I couldn't adjust the SWR because the tiny set screw on the load coil was frozen.

While, I hope that setup works for you, I have my doubts. The CLASS compressor can generate 70 psi (or more) of pressure.

Curious that your 2000 has the remotely vented shock. Yamaha didn't start that hose thing on the shock until 2005. Is this the second go around for a rear shock on your Venture?

Yes, it is an attempt to vent the air within the shock's rubber boot. On earlier Second Gens, there was no remote hose like you have and apparently the pumping motion of the shock boot was sucking in road debris, contributing to an early failure of the oil seal on the shock. Later versions, attempted to fix this by venting through a remotely mounted hose vent. Presumedly, the shock boot pumping action would inhale cleaner air.

The part number is same, except for a minor (appearance?) change: 1FK-16381-10-00 for MKI versus 1FK-16381-11-00 for RSV. I would bet they will interchange, but I don't positively know.

Snagglestuds from Bob Myers. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?p=846771#post846771

I had a Swivel Safe on my trailer. It offers the same complete rotation that Saddlebum's. It can be had as an option on many trailers and can be purchased here. http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NzY4WDEwMjQ=/z/Jo0AAOxyVaBS3Cwl/$_20.JPG

No longer available from Yamaha. But unless there is a catastrophic failure of the switch (melted plastic) the switch can be rejuvenated. See Dingy's write-up. Also, depending on Venture model, the inner workings of the clutch lever activated switch may be used to repair a defective brake switch.

Sorry, Bob, that is incorrect. The side cover louvered vents were stock in 1985.http://www.adspast.com/store/skin1/images/pics28/yamaha852ventureroyale.jpg http://http://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=85395&stc=1&d=1404080157

Here's one of the hoses with banjo (from compressor to front forks): http://www.ebay.com/itm/83-84-Yamaha-Venture-TK-XVZ-1200-rear-to-Front-Fork-Air-Hose-Line-10623-/191089043526?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c7dcb6846&vxp=mtr http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTAyNFgxNTM2/z/2ugAAOxyJX1TDPu7/$_57.JPG

eBay, (though, I don't see any currently). Or submit a 'Want to Buy' here in the classifieds. Make sure it is for 1983-1985 Venture. Later years are different, but some sellers think everything 1983-1993 fits, so make sure what it came off of.

The short hose with a "diaphragm" looking thing is the intake for the compressor and the pancake is a filter.

The short hose with a fitting goes to the hose and fitting attached to the rear shock. The long hose goes forward to the forks. Those fittings are banjo fittings with O-ring seals, hollow bolt, etc. I believe your best bet to finding those special hoses is on eBay, or contact a member here who has removed their CLASS, perhaps they saved the hoses.

I think you are on the right track and have sound logic. Get a new slave for $70 and worry no more. BTW, I believe a new rubber flap/bleeder screw cap is included in a genuine Yamaha slave assembly. As for the crankcase oil seal, if it ain't leaking engine oil, then it should be OK.

Does this help?

There are three different louvered vents on the Venture: The small ones on the dash between the speakers and the instrument cluster. The ones in the fairing lowers that allow air control to the rider's shins. The (most problematic) vents in the side covers of the 1985-1993. These are never found intact, especially the right side louvers. I had a broken vane in the side cover louvered vent on my '90. I fabricated a single vane from brass sheet with a copper 14 gauge wire soldered to the back side of the vane and painted black. It looked OK, but because I didn't fabricate the little pivot arm for that single vane, it would not pivot open with the rest of the vanes. If one examines the individual vanes, one sees that it is a bit more complex than just a center pivoting flap of material. I imagined that the individual vanes could be easily made with a 3D printer.

Make sure that the plunger within the front brake switch is free. Check for continuity of the front brake switch wires. Check that the front brake switch is in fact properly positioned with in the housing (should be pushed into housing, not partially backed out.)

Main fuse is pictured on the far left of this photo.

The Elite II has raised white letters. In order to obtain those white letters, a layer of white rubber is included when the tire is molded. The black rubber showing on the outside is sometimes quite thin and any minor scrape can sometimes remove this thin black layer revealing the inner white layer. My suggestion is that at some point there was some damage done to the black layer (stone chip, careless tire changer, road debris) but you never noted it until you did your tire cleaning and the suddenly clean stark white blemishes were evident. Unless the gouges are deep (through to black rubber under the white), I believe these defects are cosmetic. BTW, Brian, the Elite II is still being made.

By "collars" are you speaking of the grommets (donut shaped rubber), number 4, 17? If so, they are still available from Yamaha. Some folks have found such grommets at a local auto parts store or home center. If by collars you mean the rubber shouldered sleeve at the rear of the sidecover, number 8, 21, they too are available from Yamaha.

Perhaps, while installing the exhaust, the battery ground at the engine (above the water pump, near the motor mount) was loosened?

Kev, it's about an hour and a half, prolly less, via Rte 17 and 18.

This link should work: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=37388 But to answer your question: For sure 2005 FJR final drive works, that's what Skydoc put in his '87. As for the VMax final drive, it is my understanding that circa '90 and later First Gen VMax final drive will bolt on.

If you pull the sending unit (inside the tank), you can see the construction of the sender albeit it is enclosed within a steel enclosure. It is basically a wiper attached to a float. The wiper makes contact at various points along a wire winding. With time, the core of the winding becomes distorted, resulting in erratic fuel gauge readings. Some folks have simply straightened the winding core. Others have gently cleaned the accumulated crud from the wire winding. Three caveats: the tank must be emptied to less than half full before pulling the sending unit out or fuel will come out of the large hole that results. Secondly, if it isn't the sending unit, check the wiring between the sending unit and the fuel gauge, especially the connectors at the sending unit. Thirdly, bad solder joints on the CMS (computer monitor) have also been known to cause similar erratic fuel gauge behavior. http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMFgxNjAw/z/vKsAAOxy0bRTDP-y/$_57.JPG

This bike is ten miles from me. I've looked it over before. He's been trying to sell it for more than a year. But it is NOT an '84, it is a 1983. Have him text you the VIN.