Prairiehammer

Perhaps it's the fuel filter? Also, have you noticed if the tank gasps for air when you remove the gas cap? To me it sounds as if you have a fuel delivery problem. Check the tank vent lines for kinks. Check the fuel delivery lines for kinks. Seems unlikely, but maybe you disrupted something when you changed mufflers?

Jack, I presume those cited numbers are on the cables? Those numbers aren't an actual Yamaha PART NUMBER, however, the 4XY designates a Venture model and the 1D6 indicates those parts were originally designed for a Tour Deluxe. This is not to say that those parts are exclusive to the Venture or Tour Deluxe. Those parts may well be used on other Yamaha models, the prefix simply means that the parts were originally designed for those models.

Interesting. What are the stats for the Touring Hogs site?

Thanks for the clip with the one second of First Gen, but I HAVE to ask: why the heck are you watching kid's shows on PBS?

Personally, I think Bearing Buddies are unnecessary (and perhaps maybe a liability) on a trailer that will never have its axles submerged. They are great for boat trailers! But if one greases the bearings well, conventionally, there should be no problems. If you want to keep them, swap the Bearing Buddies onto the Tag-A-Long and put the ordinary bearing dust covers onto the camper with the skinny tires? As for the rubber torsion suspension, I have never heard of them wearing out. And the torsion suspension is way superior to the leaf spring suspension in ride quality. One consideration, if you decide to spend the money on torsion suspension for the Tag-A-Long: make sure the total axle width and the load capacity are compatible with it.

I have never actually tried to interchange the MKI covers with MKII covers, so I am not positive on this point: the rotor diameter is different; the MKII is 282mm and the MKI is 298mm. Obviously if you have MKI (larger) rotor covers, then perhaps that is not an issue when installing the covers on the MKII. More to the point of your endeavor though, is the size and shape of the brake caliper. The MKII caliper is larger than the MKI caliper and I would assume the cut-out for the caliper on the MKI rotor cover would be too small and the wrong shape. As for the lip you mentioned, I believe that you are talking about the little 90° angle at the lower portion of the caliper cut-out? That 'lip' is to prevent the rotor cover from rotating about the axis of the axle. Without it, I would worry about the rotor cover spinning into the caliper or forks, perhaps causing damage.

Andrew it is too big for my email server or a PM, so here is a link to the file on my Google Drive, (two pages) https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwLuLxb8qHwMTUxVU1ZGdXIzM0E/edit?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwLuLxb8qHwMX0I1MXdnM3IxckU/edit?usp=sharing Let me know if you (or anyone else with the link) can download it.

If you find a way for the V-Max aftermarket forward controls to work, you are going to give up the engine guards?

Perhaps replace the J&M broken mike with an electret miniature? http://www.ebay.com/itm/3pcs-3-2mm-Long-Wire-Electret-Condenser-Microphone-Cartridge-Pick-up-6mm-x-3-5mm-/390888819474?pt=US_Pro_Audio_Microphones&hash=item5b02ca0b12

The pilot screws can be purchased separately. Part Number 4NK-14923-00-00 http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-4NK-14923-00-00.html

I don't believe that is a Kompact Kamp Mini Mate. The triangular window and the symmetrical roof line are inconsistent for a Mini Mate. And the Mini Mate has entry to the tent at the rear of the trailer through a swinging door. It appears that your find has the entrance on the side of the trailer? To me it looks more like an Alcan Traveler. But not exactly...

The '4YU' means it is a XVZ13A imported into the 'Oceania' market. It is a 1997. The 'T' part of '4YU' might mean it is a XVZ13AT, Royal Star Tour Classic. The four into two exhaust indicates a XVZ13LT Tour Deluxe, though.

+1 Garmin 765T I bought a brand new unit with complete factory accessories and free Lifetime Maps for $80 off eBay. One caveat: it is not waterproof, but a baggie works swell to keep it dry. I upgraded it a little with a 'hardwired' power supply (though that meant I gave up the useless 'Traffic' function in the factory cigarette lighter power cord. You won't miss that. And the hardwired power supply frees up the cigarette lighter for other things.) The audio out plugs into the Auxillary so one can hear 'Garmin Gertie' on the speakers or in your headset. Works awesomely!

Brett, as I've mentioned before: eBay is your friend. In fact, aside from your 'network' here, eBay is going to be pretty much your ONLY source for accessories for the First Gen. The quest for Venture accessories is an activity unto it's own. Learn to develop and massage, effective and pertinent eBay searches and then be prepared to PAY for some of the rare NOS accessories or rejoice when you find that 'rare as hen's teeth' accessory with a 'Buy It Now' price of $10. (It has happened.) An analogy to the 'motorcycle touring is about the journey, not the destination' premise: 'the quest is as much fun as the acquisition and installation' of First Gen accessories. Here is something to whet your appetite:

Heating aluminum enough to make a difference while straightening it is problematic. It is not the same as steel. Most likely, when you heat it, it will either break when you try to straighten it or it will suddenly melt/sag. Either way, you will have to replace the lever. I would just try to straighten it while cold by using gentle increasing mechanical forces (not by hammering). After all, the lever was cold when it was bent, right? Having said that, just go get another lever. There are some on eBay (aftermarket and used OEM) for ~$9 and up.

Rick, if you fail to find a suitable one here, there is a NEW aftermarket one on eBay for just $8.75 with free shipping. Otherwise there are a few used OEM, too. But more like $13 plus shipping. Oh. And ALL 1983-1993 First Gen clutch levers are identical.

There is a pdf of a 1984 XVZ12L/DL here. The 1983 is basically the same except for the addition of cruise control on the XVZ12DL. The 1984 instrument panel is different from the 1983, too. That switch is not OEM. Probably added by a PO for switching lighting or perhaps as a manual cooling fan control. Trace the wires to confirm it's function. The switch may be functioning, but the pilot light on the switch may be burned out or the switch wiring is incorrect to light the pilot light. If you are SURE the reservoirs are full, (Be very careful when checking the rear brake reservoir, for the reservoir fill plug boss is easily broken off the reservoir. It is best to use a properly fitted wrench to the fill plug boss and 'hold back' on this boss while simultaneously removing the fill plug.), then the switch float is probably hung up in one of the reservoirs. One cannot remove the rear brake reservoir cap (no to be confused with the reservoir fill plug) while the reservoir is on the bike. But one must remove the reservoir cap to check the fluid float switch operation. The kickstand bolt is available from your Yamaha dealer or any of the online vendors, such as Boats.net. http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-90109-10474-00.html You may also bore out the hole and insert a hardened grade 8 bolt as is done with the "Dingy Mod". http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=48342

The rear driveshaft spline is lubricated by the final drive oil. The early First Generation Ventures (1983-1985) are the only models requiring periodic application (by hand) of grease to the rear driveshaft spline.

Yeah, I have a digital 'in dash' voltmeter, but I haven't found enough vacant real estate on the Royale for it. Only caveat I can offer for putting a voltmeter on that brown wire is that it may not necessarily reflect true battery voltage due to wire and connector resistance.

David, Download Dingy's excellent wiring diagram. It is in full color and when printed out onto 13x19 paper, it is the perfect size and clarity. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42358

The fuse box containing the ATO/ATC fuses are for the (audio) BACKUP, AUDIO/CB, FAN, HAZARD. Plus a couple slots for spare fuses. This fuse box is OEM. You should also have another OEM fuse; it is a rubber inline fuse holder that contains a glass tube fuse (and a spare) for the CLASS.

There was a resistor installed (in a clear sleeve) by the factory. Not the correct value though, if you were to eliminate the electrolyte sensor.

Perhaps. It IS a switched power source, just don't pull a lot of juice through it. A relay activated by the brown wire?

Gee! No one wants to drag this on for a bit longer? The green connector in question is where the air vent control valve plugs in. Happy now?

I told you. I know! Exactly!