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steamer

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Everything posted by steamer

  1. Sounds like as good a plan as any. The tip over seems to be the only thing not in normal range. Looking at where the tip over is, I think I can get it out of there with a long pair of needle nose pliers, Just not sure how to put it back in there.
  2. Bongo, I need you to put in writing how to test the wiring we talked about on the phone, I believe it was at the e connetor. Now on to the fun stuff. This morning I did not try to start it, I retested the tip switch with two different testers. I still get 61 ohms. I tried tapping the switch, no change. I now have 11.3v at the coil, fully charged batt.
  3. Not going to get to it righr now, Life is getting in the way. Will get back to it as soon as I can.
  4. . Starter solenoid is ok, I screwed up and somehow bumped the switch on the batt. charger from 12v to 6v and lost most of the charge in the battery. Didn't know that could happen. Learned something new. While I was waiting for the battery to charge, I figured it was a good to get some General maintenance out of the way so I changed the plugs and fuel filter. They were about 8000 miles over due. After I got it all back together I tried starting it and I'm right back to no spark, no start. Don't know what was different from this morning to now. Except about 15 degrees.
  5. I also pulled tci and checked the plugs, all were clean.
  6. and Steve, thank you for all your help. Between you and everyone else, you have given me many things to test and check. I am also working with BongBob over the phone. I have cleaned several connections I found covered in grease and road grim. I tested the pickup coil and came up with 215 ohms. I tested the front right coil, ( the only one I can get to) no voltage, this seems to be leading us back to the starter system relay. I ordered a good used relay on ebay. Be here in a couple of days. I tested the tip switch, I believe it was 68 ohms. This one has me and Bongo scratching our heads. I checked the condition of the handle bar kill switch looked good. One other thing, when trying to start the motor the check engine light flashes continuously. Not sure what this means if anything.
  7. If you read back through my posts you will see that I tested for spark and their is no spark at the plugs. Fuel system is working as it should. For some reason that can't be explained at this time, Something is telling the ignition system to not fire or the tci is bad.
  8. Good thing I don't have much hair left to rip out. So this morning I went out to try the spark tester again just to make sure It was connected right. But before I tried starting it I was looking at the relay in front of the battery box and decided pull it and clean the connector. After doing this, with the spark tester connected, I hit the start button and it started, ran for about 5 seconds and died. Tried again and no spark.
  9. After talking to BongoBob We have come to the conclusion that the tip switch is probably not the problem since it is a simple on or off switch, so disconnecting it would be the same as if it were in the up right/neutral position. I did try starting the bike with it disconnected. I'm still going to run a test on it anyway just to see what I get.
  10. I checked for spark at the rear left plug and got nothing. I checked all fuses and change out some. I checked all the ground I could find all tight and clean. It has started several time since it first happened but for only a second or two. Last night it fired for about half a second, now it won't fire at all.
  11. Yes, the connector is the only thing that is accessible. right now its hotter then hell out in the shed. I will be doing more testing tomorrow.
  12. It's inside the frame behind the goose neck, you really can't see but a corner of it. Can't get a hand in there. to much of the cooling system in the way.
  13. Hasn't been removed because it pretty much impossible to get to it with out removing half the cooling system.
  14. OK, so this is what I've eliminated. Fuel to carbs no problem pumps working, tip over switch, I jumped it and still not firing, ignition switch, change it out to the old one. Everything on the bike works, just no spark. I'm thinking it is the igniter/tci or what ever they call it. If you got anything please share.
  15. If it was the kill switch the started would not turn over. Simple and stupid would be nice, if only I can find it.
  16. I checked for the dangling relay and it is attached as it should be. I didn't hit the pot hole, I swerved hard to the right to avoid it. Maybe enough g force to activate the tip over? I don't see how that could happen, but who knows.
  17. I disconnected it to see if it would make a difference. No change, so now I will jumper it and see what happens.
  18. I disconnected the fuel line at the carbs and turned the key on then hit the kill switch and the pump pumped gas out. So the carbs are full of gas. So the gas problem is eliminated. has to be spark or a safety switch. I disconnected the tip over switch and it will still turn over but still not start. I'm leaving for work soon, will have to wait till morning to work on it. I going to try bypassing the tip over switch and see if that works. Funny thing, after disconnecting the tip over switch and cleaning with electric cleaner then reconnected it, it fire for half of a second. Maybe on to something?
  19. I know. I can smell it all the way down here, lol, thanks Carl.
  20. Never mind, I found it. For future reference, It is inside the frame above the radiator, under the ignition switch. the hole to access it is to small to get your hand inside. The only reason I found it was I looked for the plug. the plug is under the right side neck cove. A gray 2 wire plug.
  21. Where on the 2nd gen is the bank angle/emergency stop/ tipover/ what ever it's call switch/sensor??? has anyone actually put eyes on it? I hear it's a very elusive critter.
  22. Had this happen last year, now have new switch and connections.
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