steamer

back when all gas sold in the U.S. went to 10 percent ethanol I worked for a John Deere dealer. The next spring we got five times more gas movers in the shop then ever before with starting and running problems, the shop was over loaded with work. One of our older guys who had been around for ever took about a dozen lawn tractors out back and dosed them with sea Foam and fresh gas and let them run for several hours. it was quit a site, but at the end or the day they were all running and starting a hell of a lot better. The shop made a hell of a lot of money for very little work. The stuff works when used in running motors and I've seen it get non starting motors running again. Not every time, but most of the time.

Very few need the valve shims done at 26000. Without hearing your noise it's hard to say if its normal valve train noise or not. They all have some valve noise. You may also be hearing clutch noise. Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk

Latest report says its going to turn south and put myrtle beach in it's cross hair. My brother live just north of the n.c, s.c line about a mile from the ocean. they are leaving today. I don't think their home has a chance.

"Deja vu all over again" where have I seen this problem before....oh yea, It was me about 2 months ago. Only had power to the coils for a split second then nothing. Kind of like someone turning a switch on an off. Never did figure it out, kind of fixed itself. I hope you find a source to your problem. I never did. What I can tell you is as Bongbob said, it has nothing to do with the charging system. Had that go bad several weeks after the ignition problem. If you have good voltage at the battery you need to look at the ignition system and all the safety switches and all the connectors. I still think the problem I had had to do with a bad switch.

Like Bongo said, check all batt. connections and grounds. Main fuse is behind left side cover under divers seat where the starter solenoid is.

And to think, over the last couple of years we were questioning if we should continue doing this event due to the low attendance over the past few years. Last year we asked the attending members to get the word out about how much fun this event is and they stepped up and got the job done. If not for all of our great members their would be no WNY rally. Thank you, you are all great friends and family.

Sorry to hear that.....NOT! Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk

Glad to see you all had a great time, looking forward to seeing everyone again next year, even you Tooch….still thinking about changing my screen name!

Check the main fuss next to the starter solenoid behind the left cover under the seat. If that's ok, remove the gas tank and check the 2 wire connector going to the ignition switch. We have seen more than a couple of theses connectors burn out. If that's not it then it could be the ignition switch. This is a big problem with the 2nd gen. One of our members makes a bypass for the ignition switch, you can find it in the classified section.

just checked the Motortrike site, looks like they still make them. A bit pricey if you ask me.

Sounds like the master cylinder is leaking by. Rebuild or replace Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk

Thanks Bob, new one will be here soon. Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk

Have to wait for the parts to get here,about a week. And yes robin will be here . Sent from my SM-J320V using Tapatalk

Soooo, here we go again! Only this time it's something different. The bike has been running great, until a couple of days ago when we stopped for gas and when I hit the start button all I got was clicking. Dead battery! Got a jump and made the last 8 miles to home. So I did a bunch of research here on VR, and tested the stator to find a dead lead. Order a new stator, removed the old one to find a very toasty winding. Now just waiting for parts. Guess we weren't meant to ride this year. Thanks to all you poor members that had to go through this before me and wrote all the great info so the rest of us knew what to look for. This is a great family. Now, would anyone like to come over and put my trike back together? lol.

We are looking at a possible record turn out this year, so if you are planning to come to the rally, please sign up on the calendar so we can plan how much food we will need for the Saturday night BBQ. Anyone can join us at anytime during the rally but if you want to join in the BBQ we need to know early enough to notify the caterer. Looking forward to seeing everyone there. ps. the price of the bbq is $12.00

. Ok that's good news.

I can't find anything on face book or here on VR. But word is going around that they we're on the duck that sank and are ok.

Welcome to the stent club. Its better then the alterative.

SEAFOAM! With that being said, since you said the bike was not used much, you should pull the carb's and give them a proper cleaning.

This has been covered several times in the past and everyone seems to agree that it is from oil level being to high. the general concenses is to fill the oil to half way between the high and low marks. The kick stand theory is also on the top of the list as to why the oil collects at the left rear carb. However, my bike is a trike and the oil still collect at the left rear carb??? I don't think anyone has ever found a good answer as to why this happens.

I wish I could tell you I found the problem, but I can't. Did I find something to make it run again? Don't know. What I can tell you is if it happens again, I can tell you what it probably isn't. I got it all back together and took it for a very short ride with no problem. I honestly think it runs better now then before. Probably the new plugs. Anyway I guess time will tell. Thanks to everyone here who racked their brains to try and help me. I can only hope to return the favor down the road. Hopefully for your sake not on the side of the road.

So now I go from doing everything I can to make it run to Trying to make it quit running so I can figure out why it wouldn't start to begin with. I had to do a bunch of running today, so I didn't get to do much with it. I did hook up the new tip switch to see what would happen and yep it ran just fine. Bongo, I also tested the resistor you sent, to check my meter, I got 33k ohms. Thanks for the resistor, but I guess I don't need to bypass the switch. I am going to pull the kick stand switch and clean it. I think I will check the throttle position sensor also. Might as well check and clean everything I can.

If it were a lose connection or wire it wouldn't reset its self over time. I'm thinking solenoid.

Now that its running I tested the tip switch again, no difference.

I did not touch anything else. after testing the new switch to make sure if worked, I hooked it up and tried to start it. It cranked and cranked but did not start. i tried twice with no luck. I had to leave if for several hours. When I got back I decided to check for power at the coil, I had 11.8v, so I turned on the key and hit the starter expecting it to do what it as done before, start and die. Not this time, it kept running. Everytime it started and died before I didn't get any voltage at the coil right after it quit, but it would come back after sitting for a while. It's like something is resetting its self, then when I try to start it, something tell the tci something is wrong, shut down.