steamer

Your not helping:doh:

Had to leave to take care of family stuff. When I got back I checked to see if I had power to the coil and I did, so I hit the start button and she fired up and continued to run. I shut her down and tried again, Yep, she ran. I put the tank back on and hooked up the gas and ran her for several minutes, no problem. shut her down and started several times. Sooo WTF????

I can tell you what it's not. It's not the tip over switch. Got the new one in today and still will not start. Back to the drawing board! by the way this one also tested at 61 ohms.

Look a a bunch for sale on ebay and other sites, when you remove the rubber housing their is a plate that have 4 screws in it, so it looks like it can be opened.

Bongo and Steve, I was going through old posts and came across one by LilBeaver, 3-30-12 pg 25, second gen tech section, " Engine dies when shifting, cranks for a long time before starting". He also suspected the tip switch and tested it same as us and came up with 61 ohms. He never did remove the switch but did change the ignitor and ignition switch, this seems to have fixed the problem. Similar problem but his was intermittent. So now we have 2 tip switches that read 61 and 2 that read 21???? Both 61 reading on bikes with starting problems!

I can't believe I almost understand what you guys are taking about. With that being said, I still have the problem of getting the switch out from where it is. I really do not want to pull the radiator. I think I will wait until the resistor that Bongo is sending to get here and try the bypass just to see if it will start and run. I have a used switch on its way, if it runs on the bypass then I will look into removing the radiator to replace the switch.

Thanks Craig, I can't wait to see how this turns out too.

Who knew a lousy NY pothole would lead to this. I'm very grateful for all the help. To bad it's still not running.

I agree it does need to be pulled. The only way that I can see to get access, short of removing the motor, Is to remove the radiator. Not something I'm looking forward to doing.

I have a used switch on its way, cost all of 5 bucks, but will not be here till the end of next week. When I get it I'll test it and if good I will hook it up and try to start the bike. If all goes well I'm going to have to find a way to mount it.

actually their is a test procedure for the tip switch in the manual on pg. 8-80. it says " remove the emergency stop switch. connect the pocket (ohm X1) to the emergency stop switch connector as shown. When turning the ESS approx. 50 deg. the resistance reading is 0 ohms" Doesn't say what it should read in the upright position. What the hell good is that.

Yes on the 200k scale.

Sounds like as good a plan as any. The tip over seems to be the only thing not in normal range. Looking at where the tip over is, I think I can get it out of there with a long pair of needle nose pliers, Just not sure how to put it back in there.

Bongo, I need you to put in writing how to test the wiring we talked about on the phone, I believe it was at the e connetor. Now on to the fun stuff. This morning I did not try to start it, I retested the tip switch with two different testers. I still get 61 ohms. I tried tapping the switch, no change. I now have 11.3v at the coil, fully charged batt.

Not going to get to it righr now, Life is getting in the way. Will get back to it as soon as I can.

. Starter solenoid is ok, I screwed up and somehow bumped the switch on the batt. charger from 12v to 6v and lost most of the charge in the battery. Didn't know that could happen. Learned something new. While I was waiting for the battery to charge, I figured it was a good to get some General maintenance out of the way so I changed the plugs and fuel filter. They were about 8000 miles over due. After I got it all back together I tried starting it and I'm right back to no spark, no start. Don't know what was different from this morning to now. Except about 15 degrees.

I also pulled tci and checked the plugs, all were clean.

and Steve, thank you for all your help. Between you and everyone else, you have given me many things to test and check. I am also working with BongBob over the phone. I have cleaned several connections I found covered in grease and road grim. I tested the pickup coil and came up with 215 ohms. I tested the front right coil, ( the only one I can get to) no voltage, this seems to be leading us back to the starter system relay. I ordered a good used relay on ebay. Be here in a couple of days. I tested the tip switch, I believe it was 68 ohms. This one has me and Bongo scratching our heads. I checked the condition of the handle bar kill switch looked good. One other thing, when trying to start the motor the check engine light flashes continuously. Not sure what this means if anything.

If you read back through my posts you will see that I tested for spark and their is no spark at the plugs. Fuel system is working as it should. For some reason that can't be explained at this time, Something is telling the ignition system to not fire or the tci is bad.

Good thing I don't have much hair left to rip out. So this morning I went out to try the spark tester again just to make sure It was connected right. But before I tried starting it I was looking at the relay in front of the battery box and decided pull it and clean the connector. After doing this, with the spark tester connected, I hit the start button and it started, ran for about 5 seconds and died. Tried again and no spark.

After talking to BongoBob We have come to the conclusion that the tip switch is probably not the problem since it is a simple on or off switch, so disconnecting it would be the same as if it were in the up right/neutral position. I did try starting the bike with it disconnected. I'm still going to run a test on it anyway just to see what I get.

I checked for spark at the rear left plug and got nothing. I checked all fuses and change out some. I checked all the ground I could find all tight and clean. It has started several time since it first happened but for only a second or two. Last night it fired for about half a second, now it won't fire at all.

Yes, the connector is the only thing that is accessible. right now its hotter then hell out in the shed. I will be doing more testing tomorrow.

It's inside the frame behind the goose neck, you really can't see but a corner of it. Can't get a hand in there. to much of the cooling system in the way.