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pinetum

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Everything posted by pinetum

  1. I need the slide and the metal insert - plastic rings and diaphragm are good.
  2. Actually I only need the slide and insert. The whole shebang came apart and I discovered that the metal insert was distorted so I attempted to get everything back in place and cracked the slide in the process. The diaphragm is good, but whatever you have available I'm sure will work. Thanks for your efforts Puc, Frank
  3. Am in need of a '83 1200 VR carb slide and insert to replace a broken one. Anybody have one for sale? Frank Pionetum
  4. Plugs were just replaced last fall but took them out anyway and did find the 2 rear cylinders (#1 & #3 ) with some carbon on them. Cleaned all the plugs and checked fire and plug resistance. All was good. Got bike started and then realized the #4 carb diaphragm/piston was not moving. Took it apart and piston had separated from sleeve. Fit was very loose but could not find any problems. Probably need to replace the piston and sleeve. Diaphragm was good. Any suggestions where to get these parts at a reasonable price? I don't know if this caused the starting problem but don't think so. It probably caused the poor power-up though because these activate at higher RPMs. Thanks for your help. Frank P
  5. I have a strange problem with the choke on my '83 VR. I had to add throttle when I tried to start it and then discovered that the choke did not increase RPMs as it normally does. The choke part seemed to work as it stalled the engine when I applied full choke. No matter what position I tried the choke the RPMs though never changed. I checked all the linkages and all seemed to be operating properly. I had rebuilt the bike several years ago (with much VR.ORG help) so am familiar with most operations. Perhaps I don't know exactly how the enrichment system works? Does the choke move the throttle to increase RPMs or is the enrichment function supposed to increase RPMs? If I apply the choke and move the throttle slightly, I can get it started. It ran just a few days earlier but seemed to have a problem getting up to speed. Don't know if these are related problems or not. I checked all the links that referred to choke problems but did not find any that related to my specific situation. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Pinetum
  6. Thanks for your kind thoughts Puc. Yeah we do live in a beautiful area. Rider mag recently had a ride feature on Door County and it was right on. I will be having knee replacement on 10/20. Frank
  7. I finally had to put my faithful 1st gen 83Venture Royale in the classified ads. I wanted to give you all thefirst shot at it before I go public. My age and arthritis havefinally dictated that it is time to let go. Sitting in the garagelooking lonely is heartbreaking. I had it out a few times this Summerbut things aren't getting any better. My advanced age (78 next month)and arthritis make it just too much for me to handle. Since therebuild I have only put some 2000 miles on it. As some of you willremember, I got Yammy as a mega basket case 5 years ago and I wouldlike to again express my gratitude to all of you who gave me somegreat advice during my rebuild. It would have taken me much longerwithout your help. I am still able to handle my 950 Tourer withoutany trouble but then again it's 200 # lighter. I'm sure I will belooking for help in the near future and know where to get the best. Thank you all. Frank Pammer
  8. Well so far things look good. I discovered that the metal insert was slightly out of round and when I resolved that the binding was less. I used 400 grit wetsand to whittle away just a smidgen and polished it with Flitz. Put everything back together and it started quickly. So far it appears to run well but will take it out tomorrow and do a test ride. Thanks for your help. Frank
  9. Thanks Great White. The binding does occur at the diaphragm end so what do I have to lose if I can whittle it down a few micros. I'll let you know how it turns out. Pine-E-Tum
  10. I started a new thread because I thinkthis will be a long drawn out repair. I have a problem with my '83Venture Royale not starting. It attempts to start sometimes and mayeven run for a few seconds then quit. I went through the Tech forumand spent much time checking out symptoms and solutions. Then I wentto work methodically checking piece by piece. So far I found; 1 badsparkplug that wasn't firing (I have 4 new ones to put in), the air filter housing filled withsunflower seeds and shells, a diaphragm assembly that was completelyapart and who knows what else that mouse got into. I am also in theprocess of eliminating the YICS system using stainless steel bolts asa plug. The diaphragm assembly slider and the metal sleeve had somekind of residue on them which I scraped off. The slider was bindingduring the last ¼” when I attempted to insert it into the carbport with the sleeve. My questions at this point are; Is there an alignment between the slider and the diaphragm relative to the tab and hole in the slider? If not, what's the purpose of the tab location ? Can I use 1000 grit wet sandpaper to take off a smidgen at the end of the slider and then polish it with Plastix of Flitz for a better fit? Has anyone ever found this to be necessary? What's the best way to fasten the metal sleeve into the slider? After cleaning it's no longer a tight fit. Hopefully when I get all this corrected it will start, if not, I'll be back. Thanks, F Pinetum
  11. Thanks guys for the info. Looks like his starter is OK. Frank
  12. Thanks Dingy. Yes, that's the reading I need. Frank
  13. Does anyone know what the resistance reading should be from the starter cable connection to ground. My friend's '82 Yamaha has 0.2 ohms. This seems low to me. Can not find any info on reading in service manual. Frank
  14. Hi folks, I just wanted to once again thank all of you who so willing helped me in the restoration and rebuild of my 1983 Venture Royale. It is just about complete except for 2 niggling problems; the oil and brake icons on the monitor show up intermittently even though neither is at fault and E4 errors on the air control readout. And it looks like I have found the answer to both of those on the website. I will be fixing those this week. I have included a pix of the finished project of which I am quite proud. It runs well and I have enjoyed several rides. However it looks like that may be coming to an end. During this past Winter I have developed a chronic case of BPPV (Benign Paroxysmal Positional Vertigo). It usually starts as a dizziness and can get really bad, I wound up in the ER twice this year. Doc says older folks are more prone to get this (THAT'S ME!). So for safety's sake I”ll be putting both of my 2 wheelers up for sale (I also have a 2000 500cc Kawasaki Vulcan). Since I can't give up riding, I'm going to be looking for a used trike or frike. Three wheels will provide more stability and should give me ample time to react if I start getting dizzy. Oh well, it was fun while it lasted. So if you know of anyone who might be interested in either of my bikes please let me know. And if anyone has a lead on a trike or frike also let me know. And again thanks to all you great helpers and this website, I couldn't have done it without you. Frank
  15. I do have the steel spacers but if I switch to progressives it looks like I won't need them anyway. So since the springs are so badly compressed I may as well bite the bullet and get progressives. One more question; how important is it to change the dust seals. Mine both look pretty good. Thanks for all your help. Frank
  16. Thanks Gary, Yep! Those are all the parts I have with exception of #2, cap. But everything else is the same.
  17. I just managed to get my forks apart and have some questions. I was under the impression that progressive springs were different from OEM because they had tighter winds on one end. All parts seemed OEM and there was no PVC spacer or whatever. The ones I took out also had tighter winds on one end. So now I'm confused. I measured the springs and they were both @ 18" long. Manual says they should be 23.6"! If these are OEM, can this compression be for real? Had some minor pits but smoothed them out with #400 then #2000 watersand and polished them with Flitz. They look like new. Tried to send photo but I guess I don't know how to do that. I inserted attachment but it apparently went to never, never land.
  18. Thanks MiCarl for the great advice. How about my ? on the diaphragms - do I need to order assemblies or is that what you get when you order them anyway?
  19. Restore is going slowly but surely. I'm ready to do the carbs but a dire warning in the service manual says not to separate them! How do you overhaul a carb w/o separating and what the heck does a carb assembly plate look like? I did take off the diaphragm housing on 1 carb and a bunch of parts fell out. The diaphragm was wrinkled but had no holes. Does the diaphragm come as a separate part or an assembly as the parts list shows? It seems to me that the diaphragm should be part of the piston if it is to move the piston. The brass collar that goes inside of the piston was just loose when I took it apart. Any advice on these items would be very much appreciated b4 I get myself in a heap of trouble. Thanks
  20. Thanks, I'm gonna be so smart when I get this beast together - if I live long enuf.
  21. I told you folks I would drive you crazy and I don't know if this is the right place to ask. So with my restoration I'm getting close to working on the carbs. First, the manual says not to separate? How can you overhaul a carb when it's attached to an assembly. I assume that's only to make sure they all sit at the same level. 2nd, what should I look for besides the obvious needle and seat wear? And how will I be able to tell if the diaphragms need to be changed? On a different note, I just received new water cooling hoses and I noticed they have a white dot painted om them. This appears to be a marker to show up. Is this correct? Also the fittings were partially rusted and I cleaned them up but want to coat them with silicone sealer. As you all know getting to them is no easy task and I don't want to do this twice. Has anyone done this. I could also J&B them and sand it smooth but the drying time is so long. Thanks in advance - you guys are great!
  22. I received a caliper seal kit for my '83 venture. Included was a small pack of what looks like a red grease. There were no instructions in the seal kit nor in the factory manual explaining what to do with this 'stuff'. It appears to be a lubricant that you put on where (pistons, seals, dust seal)? It is dissolved by brake fluid but I'm hesitant to use it for fear of contaminating the system which I just spent countless hours cleaning up. Any help would be appreciated.
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