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keikat02

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  1. keikat02
    What I am using is a "Battery Tender Jr." I used "trickle charger" as a generic term. This charger is supposed to be designed to keep car/motorcycle batteries properly maintained. Is this the right kind of charger? YES or NO
  2. keikat02
    Question: Does it hurt the bike's fuel lines and/or carburators internal parts to run gasoline stabalizer in the fuel all the time? Anyway, I think I found part of the problem last night. With the bike turned off, several times I advanced the throttle all the way; and, each time, it would not return to the starting point. While looking at the throttle line, I found a round "plastic set nut" (for the lack of a better term) at the beginning of the threaded throttle line underneath the right handlebar. In turn, I backed-off the plastic set nut and begin to turn the inch long "throttle adjustment connector" (for the lack of a better term), in front of the "plastic set nut", with my left hand while advancing the throttle with my right hand. I found that moving this inch long threaded "throttle adjustment connector" forwards or backwards either tightened or loosened the return response of the throttle. So, I proceeded to find the "sweet spot" in the throttle where it returned the easiest back to the throttle starting point. Once found, I moved the "plastic set nut" to the beginning of the "throttle connector adjustment" to prevent it from moving during engine vibration. Afterwards, I cranked the bike, let it warm up, and it did seem to help with the increased idling. With the bike idling, several times I would advance the throttle and the RPMS would return down to approximately 950 RPMS and would gradually increase back to 1100 RPMS. Maybe this adjustment solved part of the problem. Also, after looking at the repair manual, it mentioned something about a mechanical throttle acuator with an adjustment and set screw. The manual displayed a picture of the acuator; however, it did not pinpoint the location. Do you know where the throttle acuator is located. If so, would you please advise. Once again, thank you for all your comments and suggestions in helping me resolve this issue. A.S. Dallas, Texas
  3. keikat02
    Hi, Knowing I was not going to be able to ride for a while, about 5 or 6 months ago, I used a syphon pump to drain as much gas as possible from my 86 VR after having the needle jets cleaned by Northside Cycle (Elmer) in Corinth, Texas. For those in the Dallas area, this is a great place to have your older bikes repaired. Excellent service at a fair price. Anyway, about 4 days ago, I unplugged the maintenance "trickle charger", added about a gallon of gas to the tank, opened the choke all the way, twisted the throttle a few times, and proceeded to crank it. After a couple of attempts, it started right up. I let the bike warm up to its normal operating temperature and noticed it was idling at about 1300 RPMS which is a little above the normal range of 950 to 1050 RPMS. Each day since then, I have cranked the bike and let it warm to its normal operating temperature with the same 1300 RPM idling result. However, yesterday, I finally rode the bike around the neighborhood to see how it performed (braking, accelerating, etc..) while advancing through the gears. Everything performed just fine except each time I would come to a stop, the released throttle would allow the engine to idle down to the appropriate 1000 RPMS and then it would gradually advance to the same 1300 RPMS. In turn, at each stop with the bike parked in neutral, I would advance the throttle several times and then completely release it with same results. Question: Does this sound like a vacuum problem, throttle-cable problem, or another "gunked up" carburator problem? Since I keep the bike polished and clean on a regular basis, I thought I might have accidentally removed a vacuum line during the cleaning. So, after I remove the fake gas tank plastic top and side covers, this is is going to be the first place I look for the problem. After that, I am hesitant to start "fiddling-around" with anything else since I have experienced trying to repair something you really know nothing about usually costs you more money than if you initially carry the problem to someone that does. Anyway, your comments, suggestions, and/or advice would be appreciated concerning this issue. Thank you, A.S. Dallas, Tx.
  4. keikat02
    Atlanta Dragonslayer, I am looking for the "L shaped" lower left side (as if you were setting on the bike) fairing part with or without vents, in really good shape, that goes around the left side of the engine. This fairing piece connects to the front straight connector that connects to the same piece on the right side. I have an 86 VR with the Urishi Black/Marshall Gold dual color tone. This fairing piece I am wanting is all one color--Urishi Black. If you have this piece in really good shape, please let me know the purchase price + shipping to Dallas. Thank you, Allen Dallas, Texas
  5. keikat02
    Hi, I need some help from you riders who have painted their fairings. I want to paint the lower left fairing part in the shape of an "L" with the lower front vents that goes around to meet the front connector that connects to the same part on the right side of the bike. I had a left side master cylinder leak and some of the brake fluid leaked on this part. Now that I have you totally confused, I guess I should ask my question. Question: What are the best painting steps to get as close the same color and finish as a new factory part? This part has only one color which is Urishi Black. I am planning on ordering one can of Urishi Black and one can of Clearcoat spray paint from ColorRite. I know I should probably use a primer as well. Does this fairing part need to be sanded to remove the clearcoat before applying the primer? Also, what would be a good filler to "fill-in" any nicks. However, if one of you happen to have this part with the Urishi black paint in really good shape and want to sell it, let me know your purchase price. In advance, thank you for all your responses and suggestions. Allen Dallas, Texas
  6. keikat02
    MBrood, When you stated, "Heat the Pins, Not the Solder". I gather you mean heat only the connector pins with the soldering iron hot enough to melt the solder. Then, touch the solder to each connector pin until it melts and only use the smallest amount of solder necessary. CORRECT????? Thanks, Allen Dallas, Texas
  7. keikat02
    Hi, On my 86 VR, the CLASS white plug connector appears to have a problem. When I turn the ignition with inserted key to ACC, the CLASS monitor will come on, light up w/the normal wording, and then display only the "PSI" lettering in the upper right corner. I may or may not get an error message; however, I am unable to adjust the air pressure. Then, if I open the CLASS door panel and push and/or press on the CLASS white plug connector, the monitor will continue to reactivate and finally stay connected long enough to allow me to adjust the front and rear air pressure. Do you think the problem is in the white plug itself or does the circuit board connectors that the white plug connects to need to be resoldered? I hate to talk bad about my 86 VR; however, as advanced as this bike was in 1986, you would think Yamaha would have come up with a better CLASS electronic connectivity design. It seems kinda cheap compared to the rest of the bike. Don't mean to upset anyone, just my opinion. Anyway, let me know your thoughts and past experiences concerning this question. Thank you, Allen Dallas, Texas
  8. keikat02
    Squidley, I know picture examples show round lights with these brackets. Do they also work with the square lights as well. I have my square lights on the front crash bars where my forward foot pegs are. The lights have always been in the way. These brackets might be my solution. Let me know if they will work with the square lights. Thanks, Allen Dallas, Texas
  9. keikat02
    Looks good to me Dave. As stated in the responses in your thread, ColorRite does produce the Urishi Black and Marshall Gold body paints which are an excellent match. I have used their touchup pens in the past. I will probably order a couple of the Urishi Black and Clearcoat touchup pens from ColorRite and purchase the gold paint pen to match the gold colored wording on the bike from Michael's or some other craft place. Thanks for the response. Allen Dallas, Texas
  10. keikat02
    My 86 VR is the Urishi Black/Marshall Gold color tone. Not bragging; however, in my humble opinion, the bike's design and color looks better than most bike's out there. Just wished the plastic would hold up as well as the metal. Anyway, I am thinking about painting the "YAMAHA" side of the passenger floorboards. In my mind I have visualized, black paint for the inner textured part of the floorboard and gold for the letters YAMAHA to match the "Venture" wording on the bike. The all around outer 1" untextured part of the floorboard I have polished to a mirror finish. Any thoughts or better ideas about this. If some of you have done something similar, please let me know. I am open to any suggestions. Thanks, Allen Dallas, Texas
  11. keikat02
    If it had been a snake, It would have bit me!!!!!!
  12. keikat02
    Thanks for the quick reply. I should be able to find it now. However, after I adjust the idle screw, does the adjustment "mess-up" the carb synchronization? Allen Dallas, Texas
  13. keikat02
    Where is the "Idle Adjustment Screw" on a 86 VR located. If somebody has a good picture of where it is located, I would appreciate the opportunity to look at it. I have a Yamaha Service Manual; however, I think the author needs to take the pictures again. Most of the pictures in my manual are cloudy and dark. Really hard to tell anything using the pictures. Anyway from what I have read on this website, the Idle Adjustment Screw is on the "left side of the bike as you are sitting on it. It is plastic and does not have a slot or is not designed to use a screwdriver. It must be turned by hand." Is this correct? Does the Idle Screw face outward, towards the front or back of the bike, up, or down? Any help or instructions as to the location would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Allen Dallas, Texas
  14. keikat02
    Please forgive my ignorance; however, I just want to make sure I understand. In my Yamaha Service Manual, it states to set carburetors 1 and 2 using set screw "A". However, from what you are stating, this is wrong and should be done with set screw "C"? Correct? Then, the manual states to set carburetors 3 & 4 with set screw "B" which appears to be what you are stating. Correct? Finally, the manual states to set the left side to the right side by using set screw "C". However, from what you are stating, this is wrong and should be done with set screw "A". Correct? Allen Squyres Dallas, Texas
  15. keikat02
    I just finished having my master cylinders rebuilt, new clutch discs installed, new brake pads, new valve cover gaskets, and the carburators inspected on my 86 VR. Also, I had the carburators synchronized. At cruising speed, the bike seems to run just fine. However, the bike does not idle down properly when stopped. As I am down-shifting, you can tell the bike is not idling down as it should. When I am in first gear and stopped, it wants to idle at approximately 3500 rpms. "Way to fast". I think it is supposed to idle between 950 and 1050 rpms. The guy that performed the repairs indicated he checked the throttle cable adjustment, thinking that might be the problem. However, it was fine. Now, after hauling the bike back to Dallas (approximately 120 miles) and reviewing the VentureRider website, I now see the Yamaha Service Manual is incorrect when describing the procedure for "carburetor synchronization" based on the correct use of different adjustment screws. If the carburetor synchronization was performed as indicated in the Yamaha Service Manual, would this create the excessive idling problem I am experiencing? Also, those living in the Dallas area, do you know of any good Motorcycle Shops (independents, etc....) that would perform another carbuertor synchronization if this was the problem. Yamaha Shops that I have spoken with in the past will not work on my bike due to its age. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you, Allen S. Dallas, Texas
  16. keikat02
    I think I found one in pretty good shape with the vent and emblem in what appears to be the right color. What should I expect to pay?
  17. keikat02
    One more question. Will the left side engine cover from a VR1200 fit the VR1300?
  18. keikat02
    Hi, Does anybody have for sale a LEFT SIDE ENGINE COVER w/ADJUSTABLE VENT w/the Venture emblem in really good shape to fit a 1986 Venture Royale 1300DS. The color of the engine cover is Urieshi Black/Marshall Gold. Also, the cover has "orangish-pumpkin" color pinstrips that separates the Black and Gold colors. The Marshall Gold is the top color followed by the pinstrips, then the Urieshi Black as the bottom color. I was hauling my bike on a trailer and the engine cover blew off. I think somebody forgot to fasten the bottom of the cover with the rubber attachment. Anyway, by the time I realized it had come off and back-tracked, the traffic had broken the cover into about 5 or 6 pieces. I know "beggars can't be choosers"; however, since the right side cover is near pristine, I would like the left side cover to be in good shape as well. If you have one for sale, please let me know your cost plus shipping to Dallas, Texas 75227. Looking forward to your response. Allen Squyres Dallas, Texas
  19. keikat02
    O.K. last Saturday morning when cold starting my 1986 VR, I left the Choke on too long and the engine stopped. Initially, the engine "fired right off" with the Choke on; however, after about 10 seconds with the Choke still on, the engine died and I have not been able to get it started since. It had been sitting for about three months with about two gallons of gas in it until three weeks ago when I rode it around the block several times. The battery has remained fully charged; however, it will not "fire off" after Saturday's episode with the Choke. The plugs and wires only have about 500 miles on them; however, they were installed about 2 years now. Tonight, I poured about 4 ounces of Seafoam in the gas tank hoping it might remove any varnishing, mositure, and/or trash deposits. I can smell gas after trying to crank it for about 15 seconds with the choke on. Question: I have read that to much Choke on a start up could cause the plugs to permanently foul out. Have you ever experienced this scenerio? Also, let me your thoughts and ideas what might be wrong. Thanks, Allen
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