bongobobny

Graphite is normally good for locks but in this instance I have to agree that on the ignition switch it is not a good idea due to moisture. Silicone is best in this case as it displaces moisture and will not dissolve, nor does it conduct electricity like graphite can, should excess get into the actual switch contacts...

Yah! Plus one for replacing the triple tree bearings! Chances are you still have the original grease which has now turned to glue, and the bearing races have developed hard spots as well! Replace the bearings AND the races, do not reuse the old ones! I also highly recommend a super brace or the Condor version to stiffen up the front end. Your front tire can also contribute to the issue as well as wheel bearings, and the condition of your front fork innards. As Carl mentioned, wear on the swing arm components can contribute to the overall situation as well. But most likely the oscillations or wobble is front end issues. The torque on the fork bearings is significant, but then again so is tire balance...

Two words, vacuum pump! Speed bleeders also help. Don't forget one front brake is the front lever, the other one is the rear pedal! Delinking is a debate for sure! Personally I like the linked brakes better for the most part, and delinking won't do as thing for the front lever! Removing the anti dive will give more power to the front brake but then the bike will tend to nose dive when braking. This too is a hot topic and I personally like the anti dives. OK now to the meat and potatoes. If your front lever is spongy, this can be due to two or three things. First, the master cylinder needs rebuilding. Your seals in the master cylinder are most likely experiencing blow by from worn seals, corrosion on the cylinder walls, or both. There are rebuild kits out there that are inexpensive but I also recommend honing the cylinder wall, or replacing the whole master if the walls have major pitting. Secondly, your caliper may have the same issue as the master, same things apply. Now lastly, your rubber lines are 30 years old, most likely!! Replace them before they blow out!! Replace them with stainless steel braided lines. Rubber expands robbing power to the caliper, even when new. The SS braided ones resist this expansion and provide more working power to the front. Other possible causes of spongy lever are somebody loosened a brake line and did not replace the crush washer! Even though there may not be a visible leak you could loose a certain amount of pressure from weeping. Also crush washers can develop corrosion thru the years and loose a small amount of seal. When you replace your brake lines, including the ones to your anti dives, use new crush washers. Speaking of the anti dives, yes I suppose it is possible you have an internal leak in them. Your best bet, find front forks off of a MK2 along with rotors, and put better 4 piston calipers from a Yami R1 or R6 and be prepared for some real stopping power! The electric solenoid anti dives are powered via the brake lights...

I'm almost afraid to...

Make sure you put a dab of BLUE loctite on the mounting screws. The last thing in the world you want to happen is for one of those screws to vibrate loose!

Wayne and I had an excellent time riding towards the states, and delicious chicken wings in Ft. Erie! Ask Wayne about the Chuck Berry song! The border guard was bored so he asked to look in my trunk. I had a choice of 2 empty lanes... What a great day!!!

Don't forget you are wider on a trike!! Also always start out pointing straight until you move forward a foot or so. If you try to start with the wheel turned it doesn't work out too well as the trike will try to push the tire forward. Works better if the wheel starts turning a little bit first. You definately want a raked front, makes steering a whole lot easier...

Hmmm, pet alligator or rattlesnake?

WOW!!! Nice trip! Enjoy!

Uhhhh, because they only allowed motorcycles on trailers in???

My answer is still the same as I gave you on Trike Talk! Do it, you won't regret it!!

Box of galvanized roofing nails works too! Have a "Shake it up" party where everybody gets a turn to shake the tank with the nails in it...

Me too, my brother, me too...

If I didn't have so much work to do around this place I would have loved to join you!

We have "wet" clutches, and any oil with friction modifiers is suicide to them, along with any friction modifiers. Now, another point so you know, the clutch configuration for the MK1 and MK2 is different, no "H.D. springs" mod available for '86 up. The clutch changeout is not hard at all, but there are some aftermarket pieces that make it even stronger...

To my knowledge all stators MK1 and MK2 are interchangeable...

No, not shorted to ground, just turns on the winding shorted to each other making the winding have equivalent to less turns. That explains the smaller voltage and lower DC resistance on the one winding...

Yup! You have a lot of work cut out for you but trust us, once you get it running you will be glad! 47K is hardly broken in for these engines, many have made it over the 200000 mark. You will most likely need carb work, yes oil into the upper cylinder area to prevent breaking a ring, and flush ALL fluids, clutch, brake, cooling, etc. Definately flush your gas tank, drain the carb bowls, replace the fuel filter, etc. You might luck out and get it to fire up without doing much to the carbs, and if you do, add seafoam to the gas, it's a wonder worker.

The WHO is on tour???

No 1st gen, but I do have a stock 2nd gen. Not sure it is the same physical size though...

Yup, your AC voltage tests look like you have 1 segment that has developed a short, probably the one that is reading the lower resistance. As far as where to buy, wherever you can find one. I strongly doubt the new R/R had anything to do with the stator failure, probably what happened is the varnish on the wire eroded and shorted out a bunch of turns by contacting with another area of the winding... I'll check to see if I have another and if I do I'll call you, if you don't hear from me I didn't!

Yup! That was going to be my suggestion, Ford...

Hmmmm, you're really taxing my memory, but I think there is a replacement cap that fits and is reasonably abundant, but can't remember the number. How did you get the locked one off? I have a similar problem on a spare tank I have...

Yup, unfortunate fact of life...