Marcarl

I don't think that SkyDoc has HEAT. He doesn't live North of the border and it's a big thing in Can A Da. You'll have to emport it. What ever you do, don't ride with stiff rubbers!

Now that you've pointed it out, I realize that your first post refers to your 07 and not the 86, sorry, my bad, I should have thought better about the 86, it probably doesn't need any work for upkeep or maintenance. It's still from the old school and looks after itself I bet. Now the 07,, yes,,, you would be well advised to do deep maintenance on it, but you won't have to worry about CLASS, that is only reserved for the first gens, because they HAVE class. And no worries about the washer fluid, you can fill it if you want, but we've had enough rain here to last for some time, so if you leave it that won't bother us none. Changing the air over to winter air is of utmost importance as any member here can attest to. The reason being that during the colder weather the rubber of the tire seems to get a bit stiffer and when things get stiff(er) it is best to add some heat to make things useful again and be able to run at full capacity. So winter air, for your info, contains an additive called HEAT, (High Exhaustion Amplitude Transducer) which in your case might be somewhat helpful, not meaning anything by that, just saying. I know that for some others it has been beneficial and somewhat helpful at times, all I can suggest is that you might give it a try if you're so inclined.

That's the problem with you new kids, you just think that everything just runs and runs and never need maintenance. Just because it's electronic doesn't mean that it don't need some love and care. Your speedo needs speedo juice just as any other speedo did in the past. What you need is called 'Electronic Flow Enhancer' EFE for short. All speedos should receive a treatment at least once a season, and more often under adverse conditions. If you find that the needle on your device is not consistent with the road speed you think is right, then it is high time that you induce some EFE. Many times the needle will start to stick, especially at the lower end of the scale where you might have an disagreement with the award dept of your local constabulary. So if that is a concern to you, you would be well informed to add a few drops from time to time.

Might I suggest to take all the brakes apart, master and calipers, clutch master and slave, kill switch assembly, lube the cables and swing arm, lube the speedo head, add stainless steel brakes lines and clean the CLASS control unit under the trunk.

Let me count as to how many ways we can miss you,,,,,,, Don't bother me yet, I'm still counting, I'll get back to you when I done. Stick around man, it ain't all that expensive, and you just never know what good may come from hanging around, hey!! you might be able to help somebody. Blessings either way.

Sounds to me like you got it set to backfire, what did we do wrong???? Just a word of caution..... if it does backfire then the chances are real good that the results will only rebound and then there is no telling where or when it might end up, then you might not be cornfused anymore but totally snofused.

Probably there to mount a curb sensor so that you don't lean too far. Aren't we a helpful bunch!!

He said it very well!!

I'd say that was well put together, together being the focus word.

My granddaughter Tiffany put this together back in 2012. While web surfing I rediscovered it and just thought it might be nice to share. Maybe a bit late for this year, but in plenty of time for next year, and who says that we should only remember once a year. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=eric+norg&view=detail&mid=854018C61A623CEE84DB854018C61A623CEE84DB&FORM=VIREps://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=eric+norg&view=detail&mid=854018C61A623CEE84DB854018C61A623CEE84DB&FORM=VIRE

My ears could be playing tricks, but it sounds like your starter clutch is not grabbing. Maybe you could do another vid with the mic a bit further away and to the left of the bike

Maybe this will help. You'll need to go down a bit to see the bit sizes chart. https://affordablegokarts.com/pages/how-to-drill-the-main-jets

I think your greenhouse would be most ideal, keeps the UV at bay. I don't cover my tires, but then I wouldn't wear them off anyways and I go with the 6 year plan and change them out then, even if they looked good at 6 years, they would be old enough to be getting hard and loose traction. My TT is plugged in at all times except for hibernation time, then I disconnect the battery and say a nice goodnite until spring. Use your truck power when running slides and hitch, saves the transformer which have an inclination to give up before the rest of the trailer. Makes sure you never put any antifreeze in the hotwater tank, the flavour will be there for a long time. Drain it and isolate it before adding antifreeze and in the spring give the system a super good flush before engaging the tank. And make sure that both heaters (electric and propane) are both turned off when drained. I now just blow my system out with 20lbs of air, that way I don't have the AF issue. I use scented dryer sheets to keep the rodents at bay. I put them in every nook and cranny I can find, just not in the fridge. So far no problems. Presently using apple scented. The scent does linger a bit come spring, but a good day or two of airing gets rid of the smell. Clean your roof at least once a year. Don't use strong cleaners, Dawn works really well. Keep the slide weather stripping lubricated with recommended product, helps to keep them supple. We have installed 2 Fan-Tastic vent fans, one in the bedroom and one for the bathroom. We use them all the time, especially the bathroom one. If yours came with the small 4" one in the bathroom, the only good it does is to make noise. Careful when you park this thing. Watch for overhead branches that can rip a hole in your roof very easily,,, not a good thing at all. Get some leveling blocks to get the unit level from side to side before unhooking. The trailer 'jacks' are not for leveling, they are called stabilizers for a reason. Also invest in a set of wheel chocks. We use the Ultra Fab, Chock and Lock. It's ideal, although I have never seen the use of locking it where we go. The handle locking system is what sold me on it, and it works as advertised. The power cord that comes with the trailer should be about 25'. Occasionally that is long enough for us, but mostly I need to use 2 25' extensions and we carry 3 just to be sure. This year we needed a 100' extension, lucky the camp had one to lend. We carry a 50' 12\3 just in case but that would only give us one circuit. When plugged into shore power, you don't get 220v, you get 2x15amp 110v circuits. We found that the light under the canopy just wasn't enough and attracted bugs at night (not so much in the daytime), so I ran an LED strip along the canopy roll. It's a flexible strip that can be bought in a 16' roll and takes 12v power. I made an extension cord to get from the trailer to the roll and put a switch inside the trailer. Works great and doesn't attract as many bugs and those it does are not at the door waiting to be night buggers. On our 12' awning I use about 6' of light strip, 50]50 LEDS

Hey!!! You got the fold-away step,,,,,, how up to date is that!!! Glad you made it,,, now leave it alone til spring,,,, ya right!

No helmets and no shoes visible, what were they thinking??

Looks like you got the right one for the app.

Good going Don, I'm sure with this addition Eileen will have to stick around for a day or two longer,,,,, she sure has it good!!!. We had a 28' Citation but found that it wouldn't track well behind our truck. Checked everything, wheel alignments, dolley alignment, hitch, weight distribution,,,, played around with the weight distribution hitch and heights. Nothing seemed to work, it always had a bit of a wiggle, so now we have a 5th wheel and couldn't be happier. If it were me picking it up, I would tow it for bit before writing the cheque.

Maybe some to help understand what is happening as you go along. During idle, the primary circuit has all the control over fuel mixture, well nearly all, but as you open up the throttle plates the secondary or running circuit has it's input. The higher the rpm, the less percentage the primary, or idle circuit has an impact. It never cuts out, just has less of an effect. Sooo, when in idle mode, the primary circuit and it's adjustments has a profound effect on the running, but once over 1500 rpm, not so much, it's all on a percentage basis. Air mixture settings have very little to do with running down the highway, but a lot to do with sitting still and moving on from standstill. It also come into effect when the throttle is released and the throttle plates close, because then the primary circuit is the only one working. Keep in mind, that the circuits are more governed by the throttle plate position than the engine rpms. Hope I'm right and this helps.

Thanks. Should not only be for the old guys, but a lesson for those of us who didn't have to suffer through that, or the aftermath. The war maybe over, but the memories linger on, and that might be worse that the fighting itself.

Sure do look nice Fool. Snow contracts don't start here until the 15th. I don't have a job this year yet, boss went and sold all his equipment, so I get to stay home this winter. We'll see how all that pans out. We're supposed to get some on Tuesday. Hate to miss out on snow plowing though, it was a good time.

Thread will be moved.

Prayer for Pete, that is easy enough. Asking that the Great Father will look kindly on him and grant him peace and well being. Has He met the Great Father?

I was having a conversation yesterday with a Spyder friend and he said he uses knee pads to help out with the cold knees issue. Good idea! Now just to find some chrome knee pads.

IMHO it's not the getting on of the motor so much that causes the second gear issue, as it is the wear on the split washer on the end of the shaft. When that washer is worn so far, the gear will slip out, and that usually happens around 60k or so. I really think that the better the lubing of the washer, the longer it would last, but wear it will. When it gets real close to be totally worn, then twisting the throttle will expedite things somewhat I'm sure.

Looks nice, hope it works well for you and you get to enjoy many miles and happy times.