Kretz

Wow! Air Force must have a good pension scheme. lol Thank you for your service sir!

OK thanks! I meant 85. I'll alter that. Not looking to start a firestorm here, but why do you consider the earlier bikes "better?" (if you do) If they were "improved" (I know all relative) from the MkI to the MkII with bigger engine, better luggage etc wouldn't the MkII be the one to go for? I appreciate that owners of a particular model may be loyal to THAT model, but I'm asking the question as a prospective owner, who may be looking for an older cheaper bike soon. It's all subjective & probably more opinions & answers than "what oil should I use?" Thanks for any opinions, reasons etc why one would be considered "The bike to look for"

Thanks, it was the MkI, MkII thing that was confusing me Think I got it now! 1983-85 is a 1st Gen MkI, 1986-93 Is still a 1st Gen but a MkII Then later the 2nd Gen comes in which was a complete redesign from the earlier models.

Am I right in thinking that any Venture between 1983 & 1993 is a 1st Gen & that anything after 1999 is a 2nd Gen?

Certainly some good looking bikes in Puc's the post above.... Not sure what "generation" these are but have been considering one, collector plates cheap insurance etc So they are out there & these ads are just in one Province http://www.kijiji.ca/v-sport-bikes/nanaimo/yamaha-1986-venture-royale-touring-motorcycle/1271546923?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true http://www.kijiji.ca/v-touring/vernon/1983-yamaha-venture-royal-reduced/1245657048?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true http://www.kijiji.ca/v-touring/victoria-bc/83-yamaha-venture-royale/1266454004?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true

I've also seen a number of people that use window bug screen material, (fabric or metal) in front of their radiators. The screen mesh can easily be removed & it makes removing squished bug guts easier but doesn't interfere much with airflow to the rad.

Just a question, if the K & N's are in good condition why would you replace them (for stock paper elements) rather than just cleaning & re-oiling?

Apologies for the mis-identification, When I viewed the video & you got on the trike & tried to start it I was just wonderin' "You ever ridden a bike before?" (Just joking of course) so many interlocks on some of these bikes. Looking at all those "goodies" maybe we should have pilot licences instead of m/c ones! LOL Beautiful bike, too much $$$ for this old coot though. Thanks for sharing. Stay Safe & Healthy!

Look like some nice memories & yes that is one nice looking scoot, has the same lights that I got to put on my RSTD So Puc, gotta ask why was Sue looking so shocked in that last pic? (Hands over her face like OMG) What were you doing?

Doncha just love it when something like that happens! Good on ya for sharing, we've all done dumb stuff! LOL

Not looking to hijack this thread as it is on a similar theme.... I have a small leak on the (newish) front tire of my RSTD. (2psi over a few days) I cannot see anything in the tire at all & I'm pretty certain it's not the valve. Are there any of the "injectable sealers" that you have used or would recommend? I've heard that some can cause serious corrosion to alloy wheels, any thoughts or advice?

Here;s "Rider" magazines preliminary take on the new Venture http://ridermagazine.com/2017/06/05/2018-yamaha-star-venture-first-look-review/

Looks OK but a Kawasaki Voyager is a LOT less! (Around Cdn$20,000) less if a holdover model. At $27,000 (I'm guessing US$) the New Venture would be around Cdn$36,500 plus taxes so around $40k ROTFLMAO!!!!

:sign03:Well for something that was hyped half way to hell & back, It's a bit of a letdown imo. It's now 5th June 11:15 am Pacific (so 4 hours later on the east coast) & searching, I can find NOTHING.... absolutely nothing about this hyped "new" m/c. Was it just one huge HOAX? Agree with others here: :worthless: apologies! I see it's not unveiled till 7pm. Jeez talk about stretching things out!

That's a beautiful bike, I'm sure you'll love it. It's what I was looking for before my '09 RSTD fell into my lap. Have fun & stay safe!

There are also hundreds (if not thousands) of guys on the same Kawasaki Forum that use Rotella, I have not heard of one failure due to oil. Both Valvoline Motorcycle Synthetic & Rotella T6 are certified to meet &/or exceed JASO MA1 & MA2, the specifications stated by the Japanese Automotive Standards Organization. It's simple... You pays your money & takes your choice! If the oil meets the manufacturer approved specs you're good to go.

Yes I was talking T6 (sometimes on sale for c$40 (ish) also sometimes comes with a manufacturer mail in rebate. I've also seen T4 pretty cheap in large drums but can't remember what viscosity it was. (Nice that you got a deal!)

No! it really does.... Use the one that makes them look black & shiny! No need to go synthetic though, Dino will do!

:canada:Cad$47 for 5L (1.32 US Gal) last time I looked. So slightly more than in the US. BTW I've been told that once you use a synthetic don't go back to a dino oil. Not sure why exactly but thought I'd mention it. Service Manual look here: http://www.ebay.com/bhp/yamaha-royal-star-manual or Amazon, there are a number of "on-line" .pdf manuals available too... google Service Manual for Royal Star Tour Deluxe & search through

Why does everything now need an app or a computer prog & a battery. Much rather rely on my trusty ol' mechanical gauge. (Even if it does mean lying on the floor to get at the back wheel valve!) LOL Way more accurate!

I use Rotella T6 5W-40 (Yes! it's a diesel oil!) & Motul 7100 10W-40 BOTH are full synthetic & BOTH are certified to meet or better JASO (Japanese Auto Standards Org) MA & MA2 which is specified for Japanese Bikes. I've had no problems (nor have thousands of other users) using the Rotella & it's almost 1/2 the price of the other one. Never use an energy conserving oil in a m/c with a wet clutch (too many anti-friction additives)

Looks identical to the ones I got, Main & Passing, all I got to do now is get off my a$$ & get them fitted! LOL

Yea! that's why I was asking, Mopar lives not far from me & I know I've seen "non-stock" vehicles around town but sporting collector plates. His explanation for here in BC clarifies it for me. Yesterday I saw a "Hearse looking" truck but it was a woody, & also had an open engine compartment with all the chrome & an obviously "worked on" engine. It had collector plates & just made me wonder how he got'em Mopar's explanation works for me. Thanks guys.

I don't understand this "collector plate" thing. I thought (initially) that as you say, the vehicle had to be stock to get them, but I've seen some cars & trucks that are most definitely NOT stock yet they have collector plates. How come? Are there "different" categories of "collector vehicles". I'm pretty sure they don't inspect the vehicles but merely go from owner supplied photos.

When I lived in the UK :uk2:Oil change recommendations were around 10-12,000 miles. For average motorists that was a year's motoring. I believe the recommended figure has now risen to around 15-18,000 miles, with some manufacturers even higher. When I first moved here a saw recommendations of 5000km (3000 miles) I couldn't believe it! The oil companies sure seem to have done a brilliant brainwashing & marketing job! :crackup:It's all about getting your $$$ in their pockets.