Kretz

Looks identical to the ones I got, Main & Passing, all I got to do now is get off my a$$ & get them fitted! LOL

Yea! that's why I was asking, Mopar lives not far from me & I know I've seen "non-stock" vehicles around town but sporting collector plates. His explanation for here in BC clarifies it for me. Yesterday I saw a "Hearse looking" truck but it was a woody, & also had an open engine compartment with all the chrome & an obviously "worked on" engine. It had collector plates & just made me wonder how he got'em Mopar's explanation works for me. Thanks guys.

I don't understand this "collector plate" thing. I thought (initially) that as you say, the vehicle had to be stock to get them, but I've seen some cars & trucks that are most definitely NOT stock yet they have collector plates. How come? Are there "different" categories of "collector vehicles". I'm pretty sure they don't inspect the vehicles but merely go from owner supplied photos.

When I lived in the UK :uk2:Oil change recommendations were around 10-12,000 miles. For average motorists that was a year's motoring. I believe the recommended figure has now risen to around 15-18,000 miles, with some manufacturers even higher. When I first moved here a saw recommendations of 5000km (3000 miles) I couldn't believe it! The oil companies sure seem to have done a brilliant brainwashing & marketing job! :crackup:It's all about getting your $$$ in their pockets.

Doesn't look like she needs too much work at all, & they only need photographs afaik. We're not far apart, I'm in Mission.

Eligible for Collector Plates & Cheap insurance too! Maybe that's the route I should have taken. Mind you that $12 membership here will actually cost you Cd$18 or thereabouts. Welcome, to the forum, hope to see you on the road, if we ever get some decent weather again.... Where in the Lower Mainland are you?

:happy65:Keep up the good work Snyper! I quit twenty years ago, still fancy one now & then but know it would be real dumb now. As for the other posts been there done that too, lets hope everyone's tests turn out negative! Amazing what we all have in common really, more than just motorcycles it seems.

On Backorder up here in BC! & no doubt it'll cost $9.95 up here too

Hey John, welcome to the forum. :canada:I have a 2009 RSTD, nice bike! Just thinking out loud here... have you checked your battery condition, leads all tight, fully charged etc? Reason I ask is I had a similar problem with my Kawasaki, out for a ride, just quit, after some time it could be started again, but would quit again. On the Kawasaki it wasn't the battery but the stator that had 3 coils burned out, so battery wasn't getting charged properly. I replaced the stator, voltage rectifier/ regulator & put a new battery in as it was getting old. No problems since. May be worth checking your charging circuits. Good luck

Sorry T, I don't see why drivers should need to be re-tested. Though I was at 53 (the examiner actually complimented me on my observation & awareness) What IS required is driver education, I found it laughable here when suddenly roundabouts started to appear there was NO public education. People were just expected to know what to do. Coming from the UK I have no problem with them but I'm amazed the number of experienced drivers who are absolutely freaked by them..... it's not difficult! Yield to those already in the roundabout (coming from your left) Do not change lanes in the roundabout, exit from it by signaling right before your exit. It's classed as a rolling right turn. They are far safer than lights or other junctions WHEN PEOPLE ARE EDUCATED IN THEIR USE (& that is what's lacking) Most people do not see driving as a SKILL to be mastered, they see it as the quickest way from A to B. How many drivers will pick up a driving manual, "highway code" or similar once they have passed their test?.. very few. As motorcycle riders we more than anyone should be doing it often, to be up to date with these changes.

I have a 1500 Silverado, single cab, step side, short box with a 5 speed stick shift, doesn't get used a lot but I do like it. Don't know about now but in the past auto shift vehicles always returned worse mpg figures than same make/ model standard shifts. I never even thought about that SilvrT, so often I've driven behind people whose brake lights are constantly flicking on & off, drives me insane, cause often there's absolutely no reason to be braking. Now I know the probable reason! They're using the brake pedal as a footrest. Thanks for that little snippet of info!

Ha! I drove for 36 years in the UK. Then I came to Canada & had to take a driving test! Before anyone says it, it's nothing to do with the UK driving on the left, it was simply that at the time the UK :uk2:/ Canada :canada:didn't have a reciprocal agreement! In the UK, if you pass a driving test in an automatic that's all you are licensed to drive, if you pass in a manual shift (standard) you can also drive an auto. Canada didn't mike that distinction, & obviously a lot of Canadians emigrating to the UK had only Auto experience & had difficulty driving a standard, (which is what most vehicles in the UK are) So when I came here in 2002 I had to take a bloody driving test! I also lost my m/c endorsement at the same time (again no reciprocal agreement). I didn't bother for a number of years but eventually it bugged me so much that I took & passed my m/c test. I was around 54 when I took the car test & 63 when I did the m/c test.

Ya! I got broad shoulders, I can take the blame! lol Well I went & spoke with my MP's staff, they were astounded that it's taken so long. So it's now in their hands... bet they don't have to wait in a telephone Q! MP's office inquiries are (I'm informed) directed straight to a named individual who has to respond within a given time or provide a damn good reason why they haven't. So I may get some response soon!

Not at all Camos! No need to apologise! I was just trying to say that I really feel I have done all I can, next move is my MP can't think of what else to do... Each time I contact them, they raise a query BUT the people who are supposed to respond to the "front line" just don't! The front line phone people will tell me each time I call what they are doing but at the same time tell me that their request will probably NOT result in a response! I have also been told that if I keep "pestering" things will eventually move forward! & you are correct they have ALL this information in umpteen places, but we are required to provide it all again & again ad nauseum. Good one SilvrT... Maybe I'll do that! But it's bad enough chasing one application... don't want to confuse these beggars do we? BTW the original post was your complaint about the cost of your mirrors... How do we get so off topic? Sorry probably my fault! LOL

Believe me Camos I'm not dumb & have chased this as much as I can..... I filled in the forms & sent them off a YEAR AGO, I have also been to a local Service Canada office & they can give me no more information than the Service Canada people I am talking to already! I'm told there is a terrific backlog in BC! Ya think? I got through today to be told there is no further "update" on my file since my last call, (last week) & that my case will now be referred to a supervisor who should respond within 24 hours BUT at the same time I am told these calls are also way behind & that a supervisor probably will NOT call me so I can phone again on Monday for an update! It's absolutely ludicrous, tomorrow I am going to see my MP's local office about the whole stupid business!

Ha! I applied for OAS in March 2016, I still don't have my OAS! I was told in August last year when I called that "it can take up to 35 weeks for a decision to be made!" That took me to January this year. Now when I call I get the usual "we are experiencing higher than normal call volumes" I have managed to get through 3 times now (hanging on for up to an hour!) & each I time get the similar response. "Your file has been flagged with your query, call again in 10 working days & we should be able to tell you more!" My last call I got told "there probably won't be any change & I'll then refer your case to a supervisor". I was told the first time I contacted them that there is a HUGE backlog in BC, so "you have to keep phoning... It's the squeaky wheel that gets oiled!"

What's that old saying about the two best days in a guys life? The Day he Buys his boat & the day he sells his boat! Having said that I'd love one, especially around here in the Pacific NW/ SW Canada...but it ain't gonna happen $$$$ ;( Enjoy 'em boys!

Calm.... Big Breaths.... lie back, Relax & just dream about your upcoming road trips. Good Ole Christy says it's gonna be free though... & if you believe that I've got some swamp land in Florida for sale!

I agree but I think it's a question of economics. The Canadian market just isn't important or big enough, I don't have figures but the US market has a LOT more consumers. I find many Canadian companies guilty of gouging, they really don't care if you come back again. I also, often buy things across the line, get them sent to my pickup point in Sumas & then go collect them. Most times if it's under a few hundred bucks the CBSA don't bother to collect duties, taxes etc. I would love to support local industries but can't afford to when it can cost twice the amount sometimes to buy here in Canada. Too many Taxes, tarriffs etc here, hell's bells we don't even have free trade between our Provinces. How stupid is that? Another annoying thing the way Canadian consumers are treated by manufacturers. Friend has a Kawi Vulcan the one with plastic oil pump gear that is prone to failure. Repair is a complete engine removal & split (to get at the gear) As I understand it from the forums, in the US these have been replaced by Kawasaki at no cost (a BIG repair) even when the bike was well out of warranty, here in Canada it's a case of "Go to hell, sort it yourself!" No doubt about is we get the sh*tty end of the stick most of the time... But hey! We're Canadian :canada:we can take it!

I went out a while back, turned a blind corner in town, (steep uphill & all one-way) to find a huge Dodge Truck just completing a 3 (or 5 or 7 who knows) point turn & coming straight at me! I was able to stop, but not sure how! The guy was open mouthed. Then after I said "What the hell?" & pointed out he was going the wrong direction on a one way, he got all pi$$y. Have you ever noticed how belligerent & aggressive most people get when they are in the wrong? Anyway he reversed to give me room, then roared off & turned at the bottom of the hill.... onto another one way street, again going the wrong way!

& in a few weeks time we (in BC) get to vote for these same asses all over again! & the problem is there's no alternative! Sorry, I know no politics! mouth firmly zipped

Does anyone know if the Harley-D removable racks will fit a RSTD (2009) there are a few different ones eg https://ca.nastyhog.com/collections/sissy-bars-racks/products/detachable-stealth-luggage-rack-for-harley-touring https://ca.nastyhog.com/collections/sissy-bars-racks/products/air-wing-luggage-rack-for-harley-davidson-2009-2016 I'd like to add a top box & I'd need a flat rack to support it (the stock Yamaha rack is a bit useless) I'd like to be able to remove the rack & top box (just like I can remove the stock Yamaha sissy bar/ rack) Has anyone done this? https://ca.nastyhog.com/collections/yamaha/products/ltp-legacy-tour-pack OR, OR, OR Will a Venture rear rack/ top box fit on the RSTD (2009) but I'd really like it to be removable if possible.

This is what I have always understood & followed: Mix 'em or interchange at your own risk... Just sayin' You can put DOT 4 in place of Dot 3 but not the other way around. DOT 5 is not interchangeable or compatible with DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 fluids and can cause catastrophic system failure. Dot 3, 4, and 5.1 are glycol ether based. They are compatible, but like motor oils, you should use the recommended or higher grade fluid. DOT4 brake fluid has a higher boiling point than DOT3, making the fluid less likely to boil. ... Dot 4 and 5.1 also have borate ester to handle higher temperatures. DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 fluids are found in most brake and clutch systems. DOT 5 is a silicone oil based fluid and can only be used in new, dry systems.

Thanks Flyinfool I did not know that clutch/ brake fluid also eats holes in abs! Learning, learning all the time! btw you might want to change 'brake' lever to 'clutch'. Cause you just know some smart ass will pick that up! (not me though, lol) Here's a Utube on bleeding the clutch on an older Venture but the "parts" are in the same place. You can see what I meant by removing the "engine cover" he refers to them as cooling fins. You don't need the "battery tester" but you can remove old fluid with something like a turkey baster if you like. Just make sure not to let the reservoir go dry & allow air into the system. This video shows the general procedure (very similar for most any bike)

DOT 4 brake fluid is correct. btw There's nothing "special" about stuff labelled as "Motorcycle DOT 4 fluid" & sold at two or three times the price! I have a 2009 RSTD. The clutch bleed nipple is on the left side of the bike (when facing forward) at the base of the rear engine cylinder, under a rubber cover. You may need to remove the "engine cover" from that back cylinder, to get at the nipple easily. If you do remove that back cylinder cover you may need a new gasket for when you replace it Yamaha Part # 4NK-11195-00. (some parts list show that # as 4NK111950000. As for bleed tube sizes not sure but any small proprietary "brake bleed tube" should do. (I'm thinking around 3/16") Do NOT let that fluid get on any paintwork, it's an amazing paint stripper. Make sure to keep the reservoir topped up while bleeding & only squeeze the lever slowly/ gently if you don't want brake fluid on the other side of the garage. Hope that helps PS you don't need vacuum, you should be able to bleed with just a tube from the nipple with the free end submersed into a "jar" containing clean fluid so it can't pull air back. Make sure the free end of tube stays immersed in fluid, open the bleed nipple slightly & gently squeeze lever at the same time. Once lever is fully squeezed, close the nipple before you let the lever go (again slowly) repeat until you see no more air bubbles. (You may only see a few anyway) & clean fluid is flowing into the jar. You are effectively pumping the fluid through the system to bleed & flush it, replacing old fluid with new. Hope that makes sense.