Kretz

Rider Magazine's take on the new Venture: Not particularly "in-depth" & I don't think it tells us anything that we don't already know. http://ridermagazine.com/2017/06/05/2018-yamaha-star-venture-first-look-review/

When I was a young fella, I remember many of the gas stations in the UK having a "RedEx" dispenser at the pumps. It was basically a big oil can & you put in a shot of "RedEx" for every gallon of gas I think it cost a penny a shot. It was a red coloured oil that was advertised as an upper cylinder lubricant & carb. cleaner that was meant to improve running, starting, economy etc. It seemed to disappear in the 1980's. It went back a long way as I can remember my Dad using it too in the 50's & 60's. Maybe MMO is something similar but I'd never heard of it till now.

Don't know if any of the following links will help http://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-EZ-Sand-Flexible-Parts-Repair?N=5002385+3293242393&rt=rud https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-806-Finish-Bumper-Repair/dp/B000CINDQI

Thanks baylensman that's pretty understandable explanation & reasoning. Up here our gas is usually marked at the pump "may contain up to 10% ethanol" or "Contains no ethanol" (around here Costco 91 & Chevron 93 is the latter) afaik there is no regular 87 oct ethanol free here in BC.

Ok to clarify, My only reason for using higher octane gas was that 91 & above is the only gas available around here that does not have ethanol in it. Like I said a yard machinery mech told me some years ago to run all my yard equip't engines on ethanol free fuel to avoid carb problems. Around here Costco 91 & Chevron 93 are the only ethanol free fuels I know of. (there are a few others but fnot in my area) My other machinery runs fine on 91 (but some of it is also 2 stroke with oil added) but the lawnmower didn't Maybe 2 stroke machinery (trimmers, brushcutters, chainsaws etc have higher compression ratios than the lawnmower?) So maybe that's why I was advised to run them on higher octane gas. Anyway thank you all for your input & thoughts.

Agree on the battery dying, (especially as it cranked initially), sounds like it can no longer hold a charge. your original battery is 10 years old definitely time for a new one! Clean & check tightness of all battery, starter motor & ground connections too.

Flyinfool it's amazing how that much higher grade fuel gave you squeaky tires. You must have spilled some of it on them!

Yes maybe you're right Camos. I worry too much. I know a number of friends who run 87 but who will fill every 3rd or 4th tank with higher grade. I think I'll revert to 87 & just use an anti ethanol additive occasionally as has been suggested.... Now which one of those is best?

Thanks for the input guys, much appreciated, but just to clarify guys, none of the gas I was using was old or dirty. A few weeks old at most I get it at Costco, & they have a pretty high throughput of gasoline in all grades. (so it hasn't sat in their tanks forever) I use their 91 simply 'cause I was told it had no ethanol. I just can't understand why my lawnmower would not run on 91 ethanol free but runs great on 87 with ethanol. It's just weird. Then that set me off worrying about what I put in my bikes. & Puc you're correct I did have to cut the grass! LOL Saddlebum thanks for your explanation, it kinda makes sense, but then again we have guys running 93 non ethanol & 87 with ethanol? I'm just totally confused now.

I was surprised too (absolutely amazed actually!) the only reason I use the 91 in garden machinery is it's the lowest octane gas around here without ethanol. Yard tractor also sits for extended periods especially in the winter! I accept that 91 oct is overkill for a small B&S lawnmower engine but I was trying to run it without ethanol. I like you thought where's the harm? But maybe I was doing more harm than good by trying to run without ethanol. Seems crazy to me!

Yes but I was running my lawnmower on Non-ethanol fuel, so surely it should have run ok? I was amazed when it started & ran on the ethanol fuel but wouldn't on the non-ethanol. I wish they'd stop pi$$ing around with fuel, I remember years ago when they did away with lead additives in fuel, I had an old Fiat X1/9 & then I had to find a lead additive/ substitute to add to my fuel.

The only ethanol free we can get here afaik is higher octane than 87 regular. (ie 91 or Chevron 93)

I have a Sear's 21" walk behind lawnmower, must be about 15 years old. It gets some maintenance, oil changes, air filter etc. but it is not babied, it's always run well (even with a choked air filter) usually I cut the grass & it's put away till next time. I have for some time (on the advice of a local yard machinery mechanic) been running that lawnmower & my Sear's Lawn Tractor PLUS both my bikes on Ethanol free 91 octane fuel (as many of us do). I was told that the yard machinery mechanic is always repairing machinery due to ethanol in fuel problems. Recently my lawnmower began acting up, it would start, run for 5 seconds & then cut out. Try to pull start again & it wouldn't BUT if I primed it again it would start run for 5 sec & cut out. I was telling a M/C mechanic friend about this & his first question was "how old is the fuel?" I said "pretty new & I always use 91 oct Ethanol free gas" He said "that's your problem" those engines are designed to run on regular gas, & they won't run on "premium" fuel. To be honest I thought "yeah! right!" BUT today I went & got some 87 oct regular fuel, emptied the lawnmower tank, replaced the fuel & started the lawnmower.... It ran for a while but cut out. I started it again & it ran but seemed to be "hunting". BUT the longer it ran the better it ran. End of story.... after a few minutes it began to run fine & continued to do so, just as it always did. So can someone please throw some light on this? & should we also be using REGULAR fuel in our bikes too, as opposed to higher octane &/ or Ethanol free gas?

LOL'd at the U-turn directional comment! :happy65:Glad you avoided a collision & isn't it nice when police are actually there when you want them to be? How many times have we said "where are the police when you want them?" Have you also noticed how people who are wrong nearly always get nasty, belligerent or aggressive, instead of just saying "yep! Sorry I was wrong". I'm pretty sure it's illegal here to U-turn in an intersection. Definitely is at a light controlled one, but I see it quite often.

Of course it doesn't, western Provinces just don't exist, we're not here & contribute nothing to Canada. Everything comes from Ontario & Quebec They even elect our Government, we may as well not bother voting. Thought you would have known that being a TRUE Canadian

One has to wonder what is wrong with these people! Often they can easily slip in behind you, but noooooo, they must be in front.

Of course merging means moving into another lane, the merge lane tapers to nothing, therefore the merging vehicle must move into the lane on their left.(unless you have a complete dedicated lane) but then they're not merging, they are simply staying in their lane. The problem with many merging vehicles is that they do NOT speed up to match traffic on the main highway. Also many merge lanes are way too short to allow merging traffic to get up to highway speed. You might want to check your second para with ICBC. Merging vehicles afaik should yield to those on the main highway. (not the other way around) Of course people on the main highway can be polite by slowing & allowing merging traffic to complete their merge but I don't believe it's law.

Red means Stop, Amber means stop, Green does NOT mean "GO!" As has been said previously it means "Go if safe to do so!" I see it all the time here on Lower Mainland BC, Green?.... Scream away from the stop line with no regard what's happening around them. Just plain stupid. & give some of these idiots a roundabout/ traffic circle to negotiate... in a similar vein... Recently in a local newspaper there were letters from three ladies complaining how "ignorant & stupid" (their words) drivers would not move to the left to let them merge onto the highway. These ladies really berated these drivers, one even saying she "honked numerous times at the idiot who wouldn't move over to let her in". The road they were talking about is a two lane divided highway with two merge on ramps quite close together. I also wrote to the newspaper in response, pointing out that "merge" does not mean barge your way out regardless & expect those on the main highway to yield to you. There may be a very good reason why a driver on the highway cannot move to his left, there may be something on their left that the person merging cannot see. (especially with semi's). I ended with Remember... Right of Way is something that is granted NOT something that is Taken!

I learned to drive in the UK where the majority of vehicles are manual (stick) shift (I believe they still are) I drove stick all my life. When I moved to Canada I had to take a driving test, because then (2002) the UK & Canada did not have a reciprocal exchange agreement for driving licences. The reason? (absolutely nothing to do with driving on the left v right) The UK at that time differentiated between Automatic & Manual transmissions. Canada did/ does not. Back then if you passed your UK test in a manual (stick) you could drive all cars including autos. BUT if you passed your test in an automatic you were limited to driving automatics only. So when I came to Canada I had to prove that I was capable of driving & take a driving test! My clean UK licence of 35 years counted for nothing! I also had to take a test for motorcycle too but did that sometime later. I believe things have now changed & I understand there is now a reciprocal agreement between the UK & Canada, so I don't know how they got around the Auto/ Manual transmission thing. Currently our Chevy truck is Stick, our Jeep is Auto, so we swap from one to the other with no problem.

So if I get something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/AlphaMoto-Harley-Davidson-air-shock-pump-Kawasaki-Honda-Suzuki-Yamaha-PSI-/391814965028 which will be OK to do the back shock, the gauge is 0-60psi that won't be very accurate for 2-5psi on the front? So do I need something different to do the front? or do I pump it with this & use the LP stick gauge that came with the bike to check the pressure?

I'm a bit confused now, I just read my Handbook & it says: "To increase spring rate & thereby HARDEN the suspension, increase the air pressure, to decrease the spring rate & thereby SOFTEN the suspension decrease the air pressure". So if I want a nice soft, comfortable ride, don't I need to decrease the air pressure to soften the suspension (as above)?? Or am I misunderstanding what the handbook is saying?

Pre -ride, I always check lights & tire pressures F36/ R41psi but have never checked shocks. Hmmmm! maybe I should doing that too.

I often ride two up on my 2009 RSTD but also sometimes just me. I have never pumped up the shocks (or checked if they are at anything above factory setting) Should I be pumping the shocks when riding two up & will that make for a softer ride for my wife. Do I need to reduce pressure if riding alone. One up rider weight is around 240lbs two up it's around 400lb+ The bike came with a low pressure gauge, (not pump) Do I really need a "special pump" or is a bicycle hand pump ok to use. Talking with a friend this morning he has a gorgeous pearl white ltd edition 2000 Venture #1 of 1500! He runs his rear at 45psi & he mostly rides two up. Than you for any advice. Never had an air shock bike before.

Hey Sailor, post pics of your show, we're thinking/ looking to move to SSI (but it's so bloody expensive!) I want to know whether the show is worth the move LOL

Congratulations Canada on 150 years of Confederation! Also Congratulation & Happy 4th July to our southern neighbours! (Yes, there's a "u" in Neighbours LOL) Have fun & stay safe everyone!